smalls111184 Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Hey guys, I need to pick your brain for a minute. My truck is a 88 rw 613 tandem dump and the frame is getting pretty thin so I'm at the point of either replacing the frame from the cab back or upgrading to a newer tri axle. I've gotten two rough quotes both in the ten thousand range to replace the rails. I love mack trucks and i feel a duty to preserve this one, but this is how i feed my family so I'm trying to think with my head and not my heart. so my question is what would you guys do? thanks darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyGunner Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) I’d re-rail it, the truck is bought and paid for (I’m assuming) and $10000 is far cheaper than a new plastic-y truck with the emissions crap. Heck just having to replace/fix the emissions crap can cost $10k or more. If you like the truck I’d fix it and keep it. Just my opinion though. Edited January 24, 2018 by HeavyGunner 1 1 Quote The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGarofalo Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Depends. Would you be able to make more money with a tri-axle and more capacity? If so that's the way I would go. If not then 10k for new rails is cheaper than buying a new truck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Horse Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I'm with HG. 10 G is very low IMO Buddy did his R-688 last year for 18-new Mack rails plus liner, and new pintle plate. Done by Mack dealer Truck has 55 rears. He was hesitant to do it and I gave him same speech. That R will still be a mush lesser headache than any new POS. Also an 88. 350, 6 speed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 41chevy Posted January 25, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) New truck may sound nice but with the emission /regen issues they all seem to have., if all else is good on yours I'd re rail it for the 10k. You want a third axle add it during the re rail. You'd still be way ahead on cash outlay and less issues than new. In My opinion. Paul Edited January 25, 2018 by 41chevy 4 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezrider Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 if the truck is otherwise in good condition and works good for you i think i would lean re-rail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57 bcr Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Do the re-rail job. My opinion. Al 1 Quote IF YOU BOUGHT IT, A TRUCK BROUGHT IT..AND WHEN YOU'RE DONE WITH IT, A TRUCK WILL HAUL IT AWAY!!! Big John Trimble,WRVA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Dirtymilkman Posted January 25, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted January 25, 2018 Absolutely go for new frame. As 41chevy said, add an axle when you do it. While you are getting it done, it's a great time to run all new airlines, new air valves, brake Chambers, bushings, torque arms, wiring, etc. Build a truck you can be proud of. Stick $25,000 into it. Just remember though, when you insure it, insure it for a higher value. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davehummell Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Smalls111184 Get a quote from ed barber truck repair on rt 29 in pikes creek I see your in his area. I looked at 2 trucks he did the long rails on and i think he was okay on everything he did. I like my mack but i had to keep a late model mack on the road and the one thing that made that truck a pain in the ass was all the socalled pollution crap evey week it was one thing or other. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayseed Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Just to play "Devils advocate" ... What condition is the rest of the truck IN?? In particular how much (if any) rust is in the Cab?? 1 Quote "Be who you are and say what you feel...Because those that matter...don't mind...And those that mind....don't matter." - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalls111184 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 So the current truck I have has basically no rust on the cab, the doors have some surface rust spots smaller than a dime, the cab does leak through a light I believe, I've been going to change them. I put a reman steering box on two years ago, all new rear drums, reman injectors, new clutch flywheel rear main seal and a used take out transmission last year. So the rest of the truck is pretty sound, other than miscellaneous things that go bad like wires that break and I have to run new ones, the hood needs some love, the window regulators aren't the best, the box floor needs some love etc. trucking is not my primary business, I do residential excavating. I do haul a lot of my own material but I do also just have someone else haul it in if I need a lot, so yes a tri axle would be more efficient but I make more money running equipment so if it's not a deal breaker to sub out trucking now and then. I do however use it as a site truck a lot. If I were to upgrade it'd only be to a late 90's-early 2000 rd. I can't justify a granite even though I'd love to have one. I guess where I'm getting hung up is putting 10k or so into a truck I paid 17k for 7 years ago 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kscarbel2 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I’m curious if rails are even still available from Volvo, and the price. Volvo policy is to cut parts availability at 15 years, or charge a premium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayseed Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 17 minutes ago, kscarbel2 said: I’m curious if rails are even still available from Volvo, and the price. Volvo policy is to cut parts availability at 15 years, or charge a premium. The Op said & I quote.. 14 hours ago, smalls111184 said: I'm at the point of either replacing the frame from the cab back So I'm guessing the Shops that gave him Quotes were just going to fold up & replace the Straight rails behind the Cab & Leave the original fiddly tapered/Flared Front section alone.. But more than happy to be Corrected... Quote "Be who you are and say what you feel...Because those that matter...don't mind...And those that mind....don't matter." - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalls111184 Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 The one shop is Watson diesel in canton pa, yes they were only going to replace the rails from the cab back and the rails would be sourced from pg Adams in new england Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kscarbel2 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 3 hours ago, smalls111184 said: The one shop is Watson diesel in canton pa, yes they were only going to replace the rails from the cab back and the rails would be sourced from pg Adams in new england You already know that just "replacing the rails from the cab back" is not the right way to go. We don't need to tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmyb Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I have a few other reasons to keep your current truck. 1, You know the truck. Unless your planning to replace it with a brand new one, you'll never truly know what your getting. Yeah your truck probably isn't perfect, but you know it's flaws and can use preventative maintenance to make it quite reliable. 2, As already has been mentioned, you can add an axle, replace valves and airlines and boosters. You are also stimulating your local economy. Also if the job is done properly I would think it be reliable. 3, If this truck makes you passionate about work, that shouldn't be taken for granted. If you enjoy driving it, and enjoy working on it, then you'll never work a day in your life! Also th RW is probably the best type of truck to do this too, in my mind it's a classic. Just a few points you may not have thought of. So what make/year and price are you think of replacing it with if you did? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxidyne Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 I'd think long and hard on this one- Done right, it'll cost at least $20k for a start. To get your money's worth out of the truck you'll have to run it another 20 years or so, and parts for R models, E6 engines, etc. are already getting scarce. And you'll still have a 30 year old cab, engine, etc.. On the other hand, you'll have a truck that's easier to maintain than the current models with more payload, and as it becomes rarer it may become a rolling ad for your business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayseed Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 18 hours ago, kscarbel2 said: You already know that just "replacing the rails from the cab back" is not the right way to go. We don't need to tell you. Not trying to start an argument.. But, Provided, that the Original rails from the Cab Forward are still sound, & "good engineering" Practice is used in replacing the rails from the cab Rearward... What's wrong with It??? Just asking...as i'm curious.. Quote "Be who you are and say what you feel...Because those that matter...don't mind...And those that mind....don't matter." - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kscarbel2 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 No worries. Using good engineering practice, one can certainly splice in a rail. But it's not ideal for a work truck where the frame is going to be flexing/twisting. If a frame is cracked, installing an inside channel to effect repair is fine. At the former Mack Trucks, we approved that. However, installing a complete (one-piece) frame rail is the only way to achieve the desired result for a working truck. When the OP contacted his Mack brand dealer for availability and price on a new rail, I'm curious what the response was (for a 1988 RWI600). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalls111184 Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 My parts guy could find the part and part # but no price or availability info (available or nla) he was going to look into it more, but i haven't heard back so I'm not too hopeful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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