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Where are you in CO ? I'm working in Collbran right now - - - not far from Grand Junction. Packer

I've used Polaris Labs for oil and coolant analysis. They seem to have it togather. I had a little training on coolants (through Polaris) on cooling systems and after seeing some of their examples, as well as my own experance I know that coolant is much more than just something you cuss when its in your oil pan! One thing I picked up on a long time ago was to use de-ionized water when changing/adding coolant. (Read the artical) It will actualy clean up a dirty system somewhat. If you spend $6-8.00 per gallon on coolant (times about 6 gals), another $6.00 or so for de-ionized water to mix with it is not a big cash out-lay. I am big on NOT using tap water!!!! Another additive I've used is Nal-Cool. That purple stuff. Adds many miles to a cooling system. Packer

Theakerstwo, I know from past posts that you are not a wedge brake fan but your last nickles worth was priceless!!!!!! LMAO Packer

If you changed from Positive to Negative ground, you need to change the amp meter wires. You will show a discharge reather than a charge if those didn't get swapped. Packer

A set of picks are best but a piece of wire might work in a pinch. Pull the covers, take the plates off, pull the bad parts out, (The 'O' rings sometimes stick in the bottom, that's where the picks come in), and put the good parts in. Nothin' to it!!! LMAO If you tend to be fumble fingered, best to pull the Jakes clear off! Those tiny screws tend to drop in the damnest places! While your at it, just as well run the valves and set the valve lash and Jake lash. Then replace those leaking valve cover gaskets you've been watching drip. On a 'B' model that would eat up a Saturday afternoon - - - on one of those new-fangled tilt hoods --- who knows? Packer

As a Jake brake fan, I've rebuilt several. The cost of a rebuild kit was just under $100.00. The kit has all the'O' rings, pistons.and etc to rebuild one back to top form. When new, a jake will STOP an idling engine - - - and usally using only one head! When they work right they, are great! When worn they're not up to much. Valve adjustment (read Jake adjustment) will also have some value in preformance. TIC is where I got mine kit - - - good people! Packer

My local NAPA store carries cable up to 18 feet long. The cable comes in two diameters, and with a little tool to hook all the parts up to make it work. You cut to fit and install! Don't forget to lube the cable as you install it and cut the cable about 1/4 inch short. It grows a little after it's run a while. 30 plus years ago you could buy rolls that were 100 feet long and a bag of ends and a tool to square one end. Don't know about about now.

Thad, I looked that over and the PDF shows a very long spring (and an air bag?) Pivot point would be front spring hanger and because of the air bag, the axles would tilt rather than lift. (?) Packer

Paul Vanscott has done a bunch in this area. Look up his thread and check it out. Packer

Nice, Tom! Very Nice!!! :=) Packer P.S. Best get the plans on paper and send a copy to me! Looks like something that was well thought out!

I hope to add another one SOON!!! I found an excellent 'E' - - - about 1945 Will be a bit but I'll have it soon! Packer

Paul, Back in the "Good Ol Days" a Jake was said to put out at (or near) rated horse power. 170 hp, 170 brake hp 300hp, 300 brake hp. A 673 without a wind machine on the side is worth about 170 hp for stopping. Not much! Packer

Paul. The truck I first drove was my fathers 1957 B-63. When Williams came out with their compression brake, the 'B' got one. As I remember, the brake put 30 lbs. of back pressure on the engine. After the brake had been in place a while, the engine started swallowing valves. The thoughts, at the time, was that the pressure held the exaust valve open just long enough that the piston tapped the valve, popped it up high enough to allow the keepers to drop off then the valve followed the piston down. That was not a bad thing. When the piston came back up on compression, it pushed the valve with it, and THAT was a BAD thing! After 3-4 times of that, the compression brake was no longer used, and the valve thing went away. This all happened in the late 50's and/or early 60's And don't give up on the B-61 cab, I got pictures but I'm still working on getting them down loaded and sent. Packer

I picked up an 'O' ring and piston rebuild kit from them. Also a switch kit. My 'B' had nothing and I'm slowly gathering stuff up. They seemed to be nice guys and had a bunch of stuff for fixing and rebuilding. Would I go back? Yup! Packer

My double over Quad box has only 15 useful gears. 13 or 14 would be closer. Deep under in 1st gear and no where else. Plus a skip (or two) in 1st and your down to about 13. The shift plate calls it an 18 speed. Packer

I'm headed to WY this week-end and will be looking at an 'E' model on the way back. I'll see if I can get a picture or two. My '48 'E' has the can on it, but not hooked up. Another 'E' I found may or may not have air on it. I'll just have to look and see. Let you know next week. Packer

Got the poop on another 'E'! I'm thinking that 3 'E's' will be a bit much! Look for two of them to be for sale come spring. The two togather will make one great truck, with parts left over. Packer

My converter, hydrolic to air, maybe behind the cab on the drivers side and low. - - - bottom of the frame rail low. Might also be the hydrovac system. Been too long since I looked at it to say. Packer

Isn't Urea a chemical removed from Bovine bladders? (Yep, cow p--s)! "Pigpen, this here's the Rubber Duck" You could tell a 2010 from earlier models just buy the smell!! Packer

Measure the ID, OD and see if you can get an SAE number for it. Then find an 'O' rind supply house and order 2 or 3. Viton is the best material for the 'O' ring. They cost a bit more but are well worth the extra. Buna-N will NOT resist hydrocarbons as well as Viton (They tend to soft and gooey) and Viton can be reused in a pinch. Packer

RSMARTYN, What additives are you using? I'm about to put a 'B' on the road and have a Dodge with a Cummins diesel. Might should be looking to add some good stuff to get things right. Packer

If you can't find one, you can always build one. 'O' rings come in numbers (SAE?). 143 245 337 445 A 4XX is about 5/16 diameter. a 5XX is about 3/8. Somewhere in the great void, there is an SAE number that will match the filter 'O' ring. Finding it might be tough, but you'll only do it once, 'cause you'll remember from that point on. Building one is an easy thing to do. But first you have to find the proper size round, square, or rectangular stock, then cut it SQUARE off, a little undersized and super glue it togather. There are differant materials also. Buna, Viton, (maybe THE best) and neoprean (sp). I've built 'O' rings for years and had Very good luck along the way. Loctite makes a kit #00112 So does NAPN #770-1011 The issue with these is that the kit will not have the size stock you will need and although it is cool to have, you still may not find it too handy to have collecting dust! Just another thought to mess with your mind! LOL Buy the way, I always change the 'O' ring. A little leak can make a big mess! Packer

RC51 Just one! I got a Jake for a two valve setup and didn't discover that I had only one rocker that was correct until too late! Dig around and let me know what you have. No big rush but sure would be great to have. New, used, rusty - - - whatever! I'll take it! Packer

Up date! Doug is no longer at Poulson-Wilson. He passed on at the age of 55 about two years ago. They do have some parts, but I still haven't found a rocker pedestal yet. 800-547-6313 Ask for Ray Packer

Where else could you go and find one guy that has two sticks and wants one, and another with two sticks and wants three? Ain't life grand!! (And so is this forum)! Packer