Vladislav

So any turn out on the story? Was the truck purchased and would we see new pics of a LT Mack in the gallery?

For the era it could be nearly 8 or 9 or so. Something like BX75-1001. Front rails area is the most making sence place to check out. What did you do to the rig? Put newer truck axles? Or any other ones? What size of tyres did you fit? Are those truck tyres or car tyres? Vlad

I would grab 'em but I'm afraid shipping would be a PITA nowadays.

That's not Lanova. Lanova's distingueshing feature is injectors located at the side of the head. The reason was pre-chambers were fitted right opposite for the fuel injected stream to go straight into the pre-chamber's incoming channel. So you could see side mounted injectors at one side of a head and pre-chamber locking brackets at the other. Telling this I conclude that engine above is a kind of Thermodyne and later than early 50's. And that's not Buda since those early Buda's were Buda-Lanova's. Damn interesting unit shown in the pics indeed. Single head, artificial exhaust manifold... Would be cool to figure out the truth on its model and design features.

Welcome to the forum! That nice little baby definitely needs a good bit of elbow grese! Pre-planning and portioning efforts is the way to go. Enjoy the project! Vlad

She's getting into a nice shape! Keep on going!

Nice looking toy! Welcome to the forum and congrats on the purchase! Vlad

And you can not put a E9 in R600 chassis. At least by factory way. Superliner has longer hood (and different shape of the front portion of the frame rails). Mack produced R700 and RS/RL700 models with longer hoods and offered those with V8's. No E9 options were offered there but the reason was the production years.

Looks like I'm late to the party. Had a few busy days and they're supposed to follow. That crack in the liner could be made by combustion pressure applied to the liner wall which was not completely against the bore surface. Repair liners are made of larger OD which means you bore the bores to larger ID. Which could be understood as the bores get damage getting out of shape. When I measured bores of my E6 block all 6 were slightly out of round and all were larger left to right in the block than front to rear. Seemed like the block was "pulled out" by pistons forced by connecting rods when they're in leaned position. My block was within the tolerances and that's for a hooby truck so no much worry. But if I were going to make money with it I'd be a machine shop customer having a set of oversized liners in a trunk. Speaking the counterbores Mack recommends a hand tool which is actually a circle cutter you install on the deck and scratch the existing counterbore turning the cutter by hand. Than what it's of even depth but deeper than specified you add shims (if I'm not wrong).

So is that a big SAE (#1?) housing with a round adapting plate?

1. E6 2V and E6 4V have the same liners. They're of dry style, relatively easy to replave. Pull old ones with a puller (or just by a piston as you saw), than clean the bore through, put new liners in a fridge overnight, apply some oil on the bore wall and just slide new liner in by hand. May be put at a room temperature too but some hitting with a wooden block is needed. So better to freeze up. Worth to point out those liners were produced of standard size and a few stages over for cases you need to bore the block. They have an index in the end of the part# to determine the size so pay attention to what you currently have. Liners could be purchased from PAI parts, good quality and not expensive. Sure attention to the existing bores in the block is needed. Could be cracks, out of rounds etc. 2. E6 2V and E6 4V cylinder head gasket sets are identical (not E7 though). At least by the part #. If they're for 20 stud heads. 3. E6 and E7 blocks seem identical over the size of their lower portion. The oil pans (and the gaskets) are identical. About the same for the front cover. E6 covers were both stamped steel and cast aluminium. E7's were all alu if I'm not wrong. There were differences on the style of the place the front cranck seal fits (different seal OD's), those mentioned above holes for the pointer and a few others. But as far as I figured basic casting for cast alu front cover for both E6 and E7 was identical. So possibility of swapping front mount setup from one engine to the other seems positive. This is mostly all I can tell on the subject. I'm not much in rebuild of Mack engines. But have some involvement into so kept my eye for info related. Vlad

Seems to be very true. But on the other hand the hood is going to be a 1/3 of the whole truck's look. Another 1/3 is the wheels

There's a good practice to spray potential spots once in a week during a couple of months or more before you get to the spot. But this way you need to pre-figure points of your activities. When pre-plan a job walk over a rig and look crytically on what you're going to part out in the future and which points would go being a PITA. Starting from that moment you may spray them with liquid wrench or even ATF if the while ahead seems long. Than on a certain lazy day you take a wrench and try loosing each of them. Those which go get fresh portion of ATF (to be oiled in the threads) and slightly tightened back on if needed. Those which don't make you keeping them in mind for additional job time and fight.

Cutting off a portion of the fiberglass to remove the old plate and implant a new one (sure made of SS to accompany SS bolts in the future) wouldn't be an easy deal since you'd need the edges of the cut smoothed out for new material to glue up over lagre area (the larger the better). The catch gets stress keeping the hood in place so the repaired area must be guaranteedy tough.

I would drill them through with a smaller bit for first and try tapping new threads. Not much of a deal to try. If no good results just drill through and fit nuts with washers. Those same latch catches on my R-model hood were fitted by bolts went through with nuts at the inner side originally.

Nice looking animal. The front wheels have American bolt pattern so at least the front axle is not Renault. Hopefully the rest of the chassis isn't too. Would be interesting to learn more on how this truck is designed.

Many thanks for the story details and fantastic scenaries! Great to hear you have that done with your dad. Pretty sure a lot of to talk about during long hours of driving. The Grand Canyon photo's take the breath away. And just cry "you should go there look that yourself!". Maybe some year, some day... The only thing I haven't figured out is what were those bistits you've got at breakfast in Winfall? Ok, I see, that wasn't Winfall. So never mind.

Welcome to the forum! As many guys on here used to say in such cases, we all like pictures! They seem worth to be posted for another reason though to represent a look of your drive axles. If they're Mack you'd hear advices on diff lock options. But they may be found of a different vendor. The same with the chassis. US-produced CH-model has straight rails of constant section front to rear. At the same time the most Macks produced in Australia (at least earlier models including R's) were built on R-model style frames. Their distinguished features were decline of the rail section to the front and spread over the engine bay. I don't know which style of chassis Quantums were built on, there may be a Renault frame found too. Speaking manuals I doubt finding one for a specific Aussie model would be an easy deal. On my mind and from where I'm sitting the best chances you have is to check out folks (ok, blokes) in your neck of the woods. Going worldy you'd find a Renault truck manual (with Renault chassis and engine) and one for Mack E7 engine. The latter may resolve many of your potential issues and can be purchased from ebay or other common sources. Vlad

R-model roof vent fits in a rubber gasket that's true. But that vent is not similar to the ones in a MH cab sides. Larger base with smaller door.

RD and MH vents have nothing in common. MH ones fit in rubber gasket, as a windscreen. RD has stamping in the body panel with door and a hinge bolted onto. Ok, RD didn't have door vents at all. Only vent windows in there. And the one I mentioned in the LH cowl area. Worth to investigate vents used in CH or CL sleepers, they seem having more chances to be similar by the era the trucks were produced.

The interior is awesome! Everything in green including the belt! Emporio Armani is of no competitors

I like the way it looks! Thought you painted the table and the arm chears as a lot

1D may mean (or means?) one drive axle. Having no D in the end I guess it's (originaly was) a gasser. Diesel VINs had D in the end. 178th unit built of the particular model (LTLT-? or maybe just LT1D-?). Mack started a serie from 1001. BTW single axle LT seems as a rare beast.

Those who're not going/able to attend are eager to see some pics ̷f̷r̷o̷m̷ ̷W̷i̷n̷f̷a̷l̷l̷ ̷n̷e̷i̷g̷h̷b̷o̷u̷r̷h̷o̷o̷d̷ from the showgrounds. Mack trucks and fellow BMT member faces are strongly appretiated.

L-model sheet metal is scarce. Worth to make a deal if the condition is nice indeed. Good luck and keep us posted!