Vladislav

I did that end play setting procedure on TRD-37. Mostly similar to TRD72, just a bit older and doesn't have a sliding clutch for the 1st gear so you put the mesh in just by the gear itself, the same way as the reverse. 72's were improved a bit about that but the rest seemed very similar judging but the books. So the end play of the countershaft was prescribed to be checked with a dial indicator set against the front end of the main counter shaft. You remove the front cover of that shaft from the cluch side of the tranny. The matter is the front bearing is a cylindrical roller bearing, not a cone. So can float. The rear bearing of the front countershaft is a double cone. The front cone sets against a race installed in the main case rear wall when you forse the shaft up front (the cone oriented to the front). Behind it, also on the rear end of the main shaft the 2nd cone installed, but oriented to the rear. And the compound box countershaft's front bearing race sets against that 2nd cone. The rear end of the compound countershaft has its rear bearing race in the rear wall of the compound housing where you can load it up front with the outside bearing cover. And the grade of the affect is limited by the shims pack. This way you remove all the shims, fit the rear cover and slightly tight up a couple of nuts. Pry the main shaft through the PTO hole and look for the movement of the front end with the indicator. Turn nuts tighter to forse both the shafts to move to the front and see lesser readings. When you're withing the desired figure measure the gap between the rear cover and the housing with a filler gage and use a shim pack that thick. The book I have points out a 0.000-0.002" end play. That tranny is a predecessor of 72 series and my particular unit was made in 1945. But overall the design looks very similar so I guess those figures should work.

As said above. And good luck on playing with the new toy!

So true Jojo! I was lucky to meet many BMT members. Had opportunity to attend Macungie show twice. Probably should do more but jumping over the pond was not too cheap deal. First time I was there, in 2013 guys met near Whatt's stand for the group photo. And some one figured to print paper stickers to write a nick name on and fit to a short on your chest. So everybody could recognize everybody and there were nearly 30+ guys there than! That was fun. Also I keep personal contacts with a few people on/from here and was helped out multiple times.

Almost as Terry said above. You set end play for both main and compound countershafts together. Of how to identify a tranny the way could be opening the top covers (which worth to do anyway before anything else) and figure it's duplex or triplex and direct or over just by looking at the gears.

If so look for a shop which could blast and paint one or two spiders at a time for you. They're heavy so easier to not work out all the lot at once. Also might worth looking for a "seasonal worker" who could come to your place once in a week, for example on Saturday and do some jobs like taking a hub off, washing it and prepping for further make up.

It's definetly nice to do things you like to do. I enjoyed the bottle you presented to me. And was very proud to be personally in touch with one of the BMT legends.

Hi, If I'm not wrong the dampener and the pulley are similar to what was used on Thermodyne (OHV) Mack gassers, such as EP, EY and maybe others. Actually may also depend on which kind of a truck your dampener belonds to. Mine is off a military NR-model. I expect the fitting to the crankshaft and pulley offset are similar but not sure on the OD and the actual design. And if I'm not wrong ED519 crankshaft is intercheangeable (similar) to EP510 gasser. Vlad

I would suggest so detailed description of the way the hot sause to be performed may sky rocket chances of possible competitors to produce ̷c̷h̷e̷a̷p̷ ̷C̷h̷i̷n̷e̷s̷e̷ alternative products. So seems better to not share the know-how. Love the look of that old mill. With this type of season and the weather it brings memories of my fall cruising of neighbourhoods in PA, NJ and CT in 2018.

Wow! Impressive fact! Sure adds "colorfulness" to the event

Thanks the great for the pics! Looks like the day was really nice before it started raining. The line up of Big Horns is impressive. Aside of them there were plenty of pleasure to see trucks.

Bob, honestly I wouldn't buy new tyres before blast/paint rims and hubs. Or at least figure the exact plan on how to do that and when. If you're with Budds it's easier but if there are spokes (as I expect for a DM and your taste) you would probably need a media blast crue to dirt up your yard. Or drive the truck to different place for and keep it there on stands for the time the hubs are cleaned and painted. Doing that way you better have new tyres already fitted on new/repainted rims though to throw them on the truck right there. So tyres may be seen of reason to purchase earlier indeed. But anyway keeping them in mind makes sence keeping in mind all the wheel story together. Another option is removing hubs and blast/paint them separately. This is the way I do. But you would need to remove all bearings, wash them, inspect, and if they're good just new seals would be on the list. You would also need washing through the bearing cavits (otherwise you'd do that anyway to remove grease with sand) or fabricate solid steel covers (by a lathe?) and cover the inside of the hubs with them using sealer. So the truck needs to be kept on stands for all the time. Ok, there's one more option. Purchasing of a spare set of hubs to play with them keeping the truck on its own. Recently I like that approach too but aside of need of additional iron in the yard you get risk of miss matching bearings or other mating moments using parts from aside.

If you're going to purchase any Chinese tyres I would advice you to get all 8 in one time. Or just do other way and buy 2 steers. They Double Coins, Triangles, Westlakes and Aeoluses are taking place at the local market for more a decade to the moment. People drive them there and here and I haven't heard any really bad feedbacks about them. But what I have found is if a certain producent/brand sells a certain model with a certain thread style (which is usually a copy of a certain classic Michelin, Bridgestone etc thread pattern) some years later you find out that particular model is out of production. Or even the brand completely. I bought a set of 11R24,5 Aeolus drives (and 2 steers) for the R-model in 2013. They're sure still like new on the truck because I have driven no more that 3000 km since. But once had damaged a sidewall of one of the drives (luckily just a lil bit) and thought of to look for options for purchasing a spare. Nothing! That model was already out of stock and no other new tyres of the similar pattern avalible.

So any turn out on the story? Was the truck purchased and would we see new pics of a LT Mack in the gallery?

For the era it could be nearly 8 or 9 or so. Something like BX75-1001. Front rails area is the most making sence place to check out. What did you do to the rig? Put newer truck axles? Or any other ones? What size of tyres did you fit? Are those truck tyres or car tyres? Vlad

I would grab 'em but I'm afraid shipping would be a PITA nowadays.

That's not Lanova. Lanova's distingueshing feature is injectors located at the side of the head. The reason was pre-chambers were fitted right opposite for the fuel injected stream to go straight into the pre-chamber's incoming channel. So you could see side mounted injectors at one side of a head and pre-chamber locking brackets at the other. Telling this I conclude that engine above is a kind of Thermodyne and later than early 50's. And that's not Buda since those early Buda's were Buda-Lanova's. Damn interesting unit shown in the pics indeed. Single head, artificial exhaust manifold... Would be cool to figure out the truth on its model and design features.

Welcome to the forum! That nice little baby definitely needs a good bit of elbow grese! Pre-planning and portioning efforts is the way to go. Enjoy the project! Vlad

She's getting into a nice shape! Keep on going!

Nice looking toy! Welcome to the forum and congrats on the purchase! Vlad

And you can not put a E9 in R600 chassis. At least by factory way. Superliner has longer hood (and different shape of the front portion of the frame rails). Mack produced R700 and RS/RL700 models with longer hoods and offered those with V8's. No E9 options were offered there but the reason was the production years.

Looks like I'm late to the party. Had a few busy days and they're supposed to follow. That crack in the liner could be made by combustion pressure applied to the liner wall which was not completely against the bore surface. Repair liners are made of larger OD which means you bore the bores to larger ID. Which could be understood as the bores get damage getting out of shape. When I measured bores of my E6 block all 6 were slightly out of round and all were larger left to right in the block than front to rear. Seemed like the block was "pulled out" by pistons forced by connecting rods when they're in leaned position. My block was within the tolerances and that's for a hooby truck so no much worry. But if I were going to make money with it I'd be a machine shop customer having a set of oversized liners in a trunk. Speaking the counterbores Mack recommends a hand tool which is actually a circle cutter you install on the deck and scratch the existing counterbore turning the cutter by hand. Than what it's of even depth but deeper than specified you add shims (if I'm not wrong).

So is that a big SAE (#1?) housing with a round adapting plate?

1. E6 2V and E6 4V have the same liners. They're of dry style, relatively easy to replave. Pull old ones with a puller (or just by a piston as you saw), than clean the bore through, put new liners in a fridge overnight, apply some oil on the bore wall and just slide new liner in by hand. May be put at a room temperature too but some hitting with a wooden block is needed. So better to freeze up. Worth to point out those liners were produced of standard size and a few stages over for cases you need to bore the block. They have an index in the end of the part# to determine the size so pay attention to what you currently have. Liners could be purchased from PAI parts, good quality and not expensive. Sure attention to the existing bores in the block is needed. Could be cracks, out of rounds etc. 2. E6 2V and E6 4V cylinder head gasket sets are identical (not E7 though). At least by the part #. If they're for 20 stud heads. 3. E6 and E7 blocks seem identical over the size of their lower portion. The oil pans (and the gaskets) are identical. About the same for the front cover. E6 covers were both stamped steel and cast aluminium. E7's were all alu if I'm not wrong. There were differences on the style of the place the front cranck seal fits (different seal OD's), those mentioned above holes for the pointer and a few others. But as far as I figured basic casting for cast alu front cover for both E6 and E7 was identical. So possibility of swapping front mount setup from one engine to the other seems positive. This is mostly all I can tell on the subject. I'm not much in rebuild of Mack engines. But have some involvement into so kept my eye for info related. Vlad

Seems to be very true. But on the other hand the hood is going to be a 1/3 of the whole truck's look. Another 1/3 is the wheels

There's a good practice to spray potential spots once in a week during a couple of months or more before you get to the spot. But this way you need to pre-figure points of your activities. When pre-plan a job walk over a rig and look crytically on what you're going to part out in the future and which points would go being a PITA. Starting from that moment you may spray them with liquid wrench or even ATF if the while ahead seems long. Than on a certain lazy day you take a wrench and try loosing each of them. Those which go get fresh portion of ATF (to be oiled in the threads) and slightly tightened back on if needed. Those which don't make you keeping them in mind for additional job time and fight.