Vladislav

The truck has fender extensions the way it was made to B73/75. The cab sits further back than a standard B61 so the steering column has to be different. Probably the same style as used in B73.

The talk is about DM's, right? The reason I point it out is steel nose RD's and RM's seem being in production longer.

That's one good question I don't know the answer sorry but would be interesting to know. Probably the older TRXL and so. I'm not ready to tell the year T200 series came into production. With the end of the line of Cruiseliners in 1983 there might be a gap in time. Physically I see no trouble fitting T200 onto Mack engine flywheel housing. Rear mounts could be made of thick sheet metal and welded as even Mack did for some trannies. A shifter unit at the top of transmission may be an issue. What Cruiseliner has doesn't look the same as a MH. I don't know what is used on MR's or other later Mack cabovers equipped with T200 trannies. Worth to point out the shifter on the top of T1078 in my Cruiseliner has "Eaton" (not "Mack") cast into its hosing.

A barn find definitely! The frame rail pack looks very good. Hopefully the sheet metal is also solid and would only require cosmetic fresh up.

Looks great! That's definitely one of those moments we spend months of work to enjoy for a few minutes. Ok, you can pull it in time for a quoter an hour. Or for a few hours, days or weeks

As long as you have the 1st truck in much nicer condition I would try keeping the 2nd one in the as is condition if I were you Looks like too much of labour to bring it back to life but it's looking cool with these greeny spots! Sure just a thought.

My guess is the relief valve bypasses the fluid when you reach the turn stops. You continue "turning the wheel" so directing the gear to continue turning. What means applying pressure to the piston. But piston (together with Pitman arm etc) can't go since the knuckle is against the stop. So pressure doesn't have a way to go and would blow the lines. It opens the relief valve instead and bypasses back to the tank.

Yup, now it's a "double-historical" artifact. Probably's going to be a new Christmas item. I didn't know the story behind the scripts though. Now I understand it better. Or maybe I just wasn't English-understanding enough at the time I first saw the pic and read the conversation?...

Sorry to hear about the cat. Probably it was just the time for her to travel to cats heaven. Sure nobody knows for sure. The legs and breasts look very attractive. Real mouth water makers! And that wooden thingy partly closed by the bush - isn't that a ladder Mr.Grinch used to crawl onto the roof?? Thanks for posting.

Great!

Congrats on the addition to the fleet! Sorry I'm out of likes for today. And eager for the pictures.

Great job you did! That's definitely a DMM, not DM. Definitely it surprizes seeing it with steel nose and no front drive. But I was surprized earlier once rifled through Truckpaper ads and saw a couple of the same configured rigs. Good nobody catched you there and broke the camera. And I'm pretty sure your wife kept her right foot with slight pressure on the gas pedal holding the car by brakes with her left foot Thanks for the pics. I like these animals

Great find! Looks really cool from the side with that long nose! Good luck on bringing her back on the road! Vlad

To my understanding (from what I learned on here) Bosch pumps were of in-line style and those V8 units were made by Ambac. $2300 for a bare housing doesn't seem too attractive for anyone who's going to go through a rebuild strory on such a pump on my mind. Removing one 0 would look more realistic.

The main need of tank vent is allowing athmosphere air to go in for compensation of the space of fuel consumed by engine. If air doesn't come you get vaccuum in the tank and it's as deeper as longer you drive and more fuel taken off and burned. At a certain point athmosphere would press sides of the tank making it looking like empty beer can after you grab it tight. I haven't seen truck tanks ruined that way (trucks are not my business) but there were plenty of car stuff and that brang me some good money a few dozen times. So all in all the vent is an important thing and doubling it wouldn't be bad. But in theory it must be enough having just one in the cap. At the same time there's no real need to release excessive vapour pressue built up in a tank on a hot sunny day. Only for reason to not put sudden shower on a driver at the time he opens a cap... But normally it doesn't happen, just only "phooff". German cars (I mostly deal with) had straight tube for breathing before 1985. Than after that they got equipped with a whole system including char coal absorber, a few control valves and a net of tubes. I have never investigated its principal of operation completely but in general it allows outside air to come in when needed (particuallary when engine is running) and not allowing vapours to go out for protection the environment. Life is good as long as all functions well. But once something goes wrong or a body man assembled the lines incorrect fixing an exident damage the tank gets smashed on the 1st or 2nd day of driving.

As said above. And really nice to hear a note!

No worry Paul. A couple of nice R-model pics wouldn't ruine a thread about another R-model

My thoughts of the last few years...

As said above. Also you may found difference in the front brackets of the chassis where hood hinges attach. Radiator, intercooler and A/C condencer were also different. I don't know is it possible to use them with early hood but difference is the fact. Probably (as long as I rememver) the very front crossbember the radiator fits on was also of another style. Vlad

Speaking SAE fittings they are avalible here in stock generally since many 2000's years made Freightliners, IH and US Volvo's are used in transportation industry. I belive the most of parts are of Automann brand etc so made in China or Turkey. But that's not a trouble of quality when we talk about brass fitting or plastic brake line. Also I noted spares for trucks made in third countries were not of that really poor quality as it has usually found concerning cars. Probably truck's commercial especiality together with much longer service life doesn't allow real jockers to play that game in the market.

Paul, still difficult to keep in mind you have 2 months of rains non stop every year no matter you told that to me in the past. My picture of your invironment is dry and sunny outback. Here having reasonable amount of rains and white stuff in winter I just can't imagine driving through waters anywhere on a highway. Good thing to know Mrs Mack is doing fine and secured from flooding.

Also we had to relocate all brake lines since the tanks and valves went to their factory positions from where the faith has spread them over the chassis. Good thing the most lines reqired shortening so I didn't need extra material (which is scarce in my metric part of the world). After all was done we had the truck able to drive again and brake well. The latter required some rutine job such as slack adjusting and fixing a couple of leaks. I had no time enough to continue working on the truck (was going to but the things happened to move plans as it happens usually). So the rest of my efforts was spent for a little bit of improvements to the look. I put smaller front wheels with highway thread (actually restover of the thread but that's enough for staying in the yard), installed old (but factory) bumper off SGT R-model and emptied 4 spray cans of red paint on the hood. Ok, added one lost letter in the "Mack" script. Than drove the truck for a few hundred meters along my street to check things out and make pictures. After which it was parked in its spot again with a hope to do more on it during the next warm season.

Fish plates were made that long to the front so we had to remove both fuel tanks, rear cab mounting brackets and muffler stack. Also as long as the prop shaft was modified to pass through the transfer case (or PTO?) I needed a hanger being organized. For that mean I located a used shaft off some old Freightliner locally which I brang to a shop to cut to my length and get balanced. But I also needed a hanger bracket to put on a crossmember. I had an extra one off my second SGT R-model but the "issue" was I already painted it for use in SGT truck (along with many other chassis parts). So I took measurements off it, scratched a couple of sketches and ordered new steel parts. Than welded them together. Made 2 brackets to have a spare for any reason as long as I already spent my time and attention to the deal. Than after taking the shaft from the shop we connected it to the forks.

Update on the story. We were able to spend a few weeks this passed summer (being busy with other things though) and bring the truck to much better shape. I leaned toward making it to its stock configuration with possible future plans to install a flat bed or roll back bed on. So we took off all that monstorous fish plating off the frame, rolled the bogie forward to its original position (old bolt holes in the frame secured us from any doubts) and cut welded on portions of the rails off.