Vladislav

And still not easy task if nobody's helping out from aside

I wonder how did you put the shaft onto the lathe? That thing is supposed to be damn heavy. We have to carry Mack cranks by two men and when I took the last one off a block I just hooked a chain hoist to it. The final result of the cleaning looks tasty.

Definitely plenty of cool toys to drool over. I hope those restored trucks from the collection will find good homes. Thanks for sharing.

My guess it's an emergency exit made due to the long sleeper compartment. Neat looking truck, thanks for sharing.

The chickens look good, the tyre looks bad. I also see someone emptied down a bottle of Vodka at a certain time. Actually cracks in rubber are crytical if they allow water (actually sand with water) to access cord threads where they can rub them through. There's no steel cord in sidewalls, only nylon. So no rust issue from water getting to. But I can take it's easier to swap old tyres just for peace of mind.

I've got an idea which ocassionally popped up in my mind while I was spinning thoughts of better use of the FRO tranny.... Never mind. If you keep 6V arrangment you may intstall small 6V battery separately (off a scooter or so?) and connect it to the ignition system. So the latter wouldn't be affected by voltage drop while cranking. I'd connect it to the generator circuit through a diode to supply with charge and not discharge when starter is in operation.

I belive Jeff Lakazchik is a known person in the antique truck world. I don't remember showing him up on here, maybe he's more to military vehicles than Macks. Would be funny to discower he's a ralative to Other Dog. Thanks for the link to the video. It was definitely interesting to see.

Got the info guys, thanks. There are still relatively many American trucks cruising the roads of the country. The majority is Freigthliners, IH, Volvos, a bit of Kenworth and Pete and a few drops of Vision Macks. This way trannies I see for sale are mostly RTO's which cost nearly $700 and Meritors I didn't get familiar with. My guess they're automatics. Or more correctly, automatized. Don't remember ever seen Allisson offered for sale. FRO's take they share too but they're fewer in number, probaly were taken off newer trucks which are more on the road so far than parted out. Personally (let me boast a bit) I accuired Mack TRTXL-1070 12 speed, 2 T2070, 2 T2090 taken off my trucks (one is under restoration at the moment), one more operational T2090 in a truck I may use for projects, 2 T1078 5-speed which even don't worth count on my mind (one in a truck), T2060, T2070 and X-1076(?) 6 speed in trucks accompanied with RTO 9-speed in a truck I'm going to get rid of (the tranny, not the truck). So that FRO dosn't seem having good chances to accommodate in one of my Macks. But who knows

It seems like collecting stuff like that may supply me with retirenment Sure a bit weak idea but I see it's better than rely on help from my government. Local ads offer such trannies starting from $US 1.5-2K. I'm not sure they are all fine and people who sell them are aware of what a mech gearbox by its matter is at all. So I guess if I represent the really fine condition of the unit and pinstripe the outside a bit (maybe sandblast and brush paint) I have chances to accuire 2-2.5K. And if I continue being lazy to start prepping it for the market West sanctions would make their work and sky rocket used transmission prices

Hmm.. Sounds like a not bad idea. I have 1944 Mack NM in my stable which has its original EY707 gasser and it's operational (Dutch guy I purchased the truck from overhauled it). It's too huge to be hand cranked but starts right up using one 90Ah 12V battery. It always surprizes me how a very slow revving engine makes a spart and starts making tra-ta-ta like an idling Harley-D. Usually I close chock for 3/4 and add hand throttle for a half of wire travel. Both made a way they gets back after 1st sparks in cylinders have taking place. But I have to hold choke knob pulled by hand sometimes for 10-20 seconds more keeping the engine from dying. So your idea with "remote control" makes sence. Worth to admitt I fire up the truck ocassionally, no more than 1-2 times a year on avarage. So I didn't pay attention to the carburator and settings of control cables. Possibly it might operate smoother if cared up more.

I haven't seen that track. After ending of the initial one Youtube showed me another with WW2 plane being started with that same style of setup. Would be interesting to learn more about the Federal. It's definitely a former WW2 vehicle either. I just didn't have time enough at the moment to rifle through the movies to find the correct one.

There is common practice of sleeving brake cylinders and making them to closest size of avalible seals. A friend of mine used to make brass liners. My guess was they wouldn't work really long because of wear but he stated that's fine for hobby use. And no chances they rot. Probably you knew that and too possibly you know it better than me

Sometimes a guy (I was going to type "a woman" with cross out letters but seems they are not avalible anymiore) may programm his brain cells so hard with some idea he would push forward as a diesel loc no matter who whould happen to be on his way.

For a not really large engine it's quite possible. Especially if it's a gasser. I started some rigs with hand crank in deep past and as I remember it was easy. It works good for old low compression gassers when you don't need fast revs. I even think old ZIL-130 trucks with 6 liter OHV V8 could be started that way and it was regulary done by drivers in the past. One thing I'm sure it would be much easier than inventing hydraulic starting system driven from the brakes

Do you mean the one with the plane?

Very interesting. Is it seen true also for spring hangers and other chassis brackets?

Great! I understand they're not made of gold. But hope they will work as like made of silver!

So are we going to loose you?? As for the starter - just a thought. An air start?

Thanks for the tips once again. I looked pics I made when the top cover was removed and saw its overdrive transmission. You can always identify it seeing one gear wheel on the main shaft of lesser OD than the constant mesh one. Which means that gear set is faster than direct. The rest of wheels is larger. So if the B is direct top it turns I've got the C. I haven't made decition on what to do with that transmission so far. Now I know the ratios and general specific so may spin thoughts on my mind. Maybe to keep it for future projects or maybe just sell it. Actually I have a whole collection of Mack transmissions to choose from for what to play with. And they don't cost anything in my neck of the woods. At the same time Eaton has market and honestly I don't lean toward using off-breed unit in a hobby truck.

Many thanks, guys! I got myself to where the tranny was stored (laying down on a floor) today. The top cover had METRIC script casted on it and I could see something like a big rectangular cover with bolts at the bottom left of the housing. Aside of that it had two angle fittings with threads for attaching hoses which my guess is for external cooler. The tranny drips oil out of them onto the floor for a while and that's transmission oil definitely not antefreeze or water or whatever else. So puzzle gets into shape like a FRO-16210. But no clue so far it's C or B or anything else if such exists. Can I try identifying by teeth count as Joey mentioned or another way? Also a question is are there typical weak points I should investigate to determine its condition? I had the top cover removed and saw all gear wheels solid covered with clean oil. Sliding clutches didn't show any crytical wear. A synchro hub could be either seen showing its Hi range side (probably it was shifted in Lo before removing from the truck). And it looked as perfect as new. I couldn't find crytical play of shafts or gears on them. Only excessive rust all over the housing at the outer side and very light oily sweat around the yoke seal.

I acquired a transmission from a truck which was parted out locally. By the look folks told me it's RTO-16210 or so but the tag is missing and I would like to learn more about it. Mostly the ratios. Hope interweb search will help but I need its model first. I hope it can be tracked by the truck's VIN. Too probably it's original to the truck. Thanks. VIN: 1M1AE07Y14N020543

I belive some L-models had steel floor panels from the factory. As for oil the source could be the U-joint right behind the transmission. It spreads excess of grease due to spin. Shift lever also supposed to leak some tranny oil on a hot run.

Sounds as a great day! Best wishes and many more to come!

Good luck on seamless reassembly!

Judging by the drawing posted above the bearing is of a simple style ball bearing of the same OD as the seals. It may be measured without disturbing the seals and the same to its ID and width. Mine (on the pic I posted) had double raw ball bearing which could rotate in its outer race when the shaft bounces relating to the horizont.