Vladislav

I like the way it looks! Thought you painted the table and the arm chears as a lot

1D may mean (or means?) one drive axle. Having no D in the end I guess it's (originaly was) a gasser. Diesel VINs had D in the end. 178th unit built of the particular model (LTLT-? or maybe just LT1D-?). Mack started a serie from 1001. BTW single axle LT seems as a rare beast.

Those who're not going/able to attend are eager to see some pics ̷f̷r̷o̷m̷ ̷W̷i̷n̷f̷a̷l̷l̷ ̷n̷e̷i̷g̷h̷b̷o̷u̷r̷h̷o̷o̷d̷ from the showgrounds. Mack trucks and fellow BMT member faces are strongly appretiated.

L-model sheet metal is scarce. Worth to make a deal if the condition is nice indeed. Good luck and keep us posted!

List the list! I might be interested in the best options helping provide fixing of a fiberglass hood of an R-model. Oh, my mistake, DM is another story!

Yup, as said above! You truck should have chassis number stamped onto the LH frame rail nearly above the front axle beam. May be closer to the upper edge of the rail but may vary. At least the most L-models have that that way. Should be something like LT1D-1001 or LTSW-1002.

Yes, they have plenty of things overthere, I saw that in person. But that's also a place you may stand with your hands in pockets looking over the shelves Still late Friday evening overhere. Ok, early night. Ok, 5 minutes to midnight

I've taken vitamins for already about a decade to the moment (I'm 48 now). Just feel run down and sleepy in the morning and during a day otherwise. Used B-complex, than D3 in elephant dozes (had blood check which showed 20 digit level instead of 70-100 norm), than zink combined with a complex of other needed minerals. But I make interruptions for a month or two or switch from one complex to another. For example I took D3 all the winter and stopped doing that in May. I hope I will get more sun exposion (I try my best but get more brown due to dust and grease while working topless). Than after quiting D3 I felt slow in a couple of weeks. So got to a can of B-complex I ordered from overseas when it was still possible. Got feeling more active (just normal) in a couple of days. I think I will continue it for a month more or so and than switch to zink+ I have on a shelf and had good results with in the past. Ok, I'm not a doctor and wouldn't give advices on what to do and do not. But if you take some vitamins/minerals there's quite easy way to determine the need - just stop taking them for a month. If you feel worse in a week than you should get back. If Ok I would live without them for some while. Actually the most complexes I read directions of prescribed to get a coursus of a month or two. Than interrupt and continue later if needed. Oh, that sounds as a good advice on liver food. Unfortunately it's almost off my taste.

Interesting, thanks for the info shared. I haven't put my nose into 80's years' Mack radiator so far. Was going to but could stop myself from one more deal having many others unfinished. My R-model which I drive from time to time (about once in two years recently) has that same sensor in the upper tank and red lamp on the dash lights on with a mark "shut off the engine" below it. The previouse owner told that's because of low coolant level. And I still haven't add any and even looked into during already 11 years I own the truck. The temp gauge readings are Ok though.

Paul, that makes sence for sure. The original hoods on my R's had very thick foam insulation glued to the inner side at the top and the sides. No less than 30-35mm (1-1/4") thick. That may help lowering down the heat affect to the fiberglass. I doubt many old trucks still keep that insulation in place and also don't know how your truck was outfitted from the factory.

On my mind there's a reason to apply a coat of epoxy primer over the repaired areas. It would harden the surface under the final coats preventing show up of uneveness of dencity and flexibility from down below. Also cracks should be opened up and for their full depth in perfect cases. With edges more parallel to the outer surface than perpendicular. This kind of job may be very time consuming. And the final result may vary depending on the amount of sweet and hours invested. And dust breathed in.

Soooo.... Are those blue spots were made by a grinder? Or by the age??

She's looking great! A pleasure to see!

I see you didn't surrender without a fight. Self fixing is not only a money save but a huge time save in many cases. Not always though and we can't go beyound our possibilities. I guess the issue was the starter. Or even just the control power supply to it. If the engine was stuck and the starter was trying to force it to spin you would hear a click and observe extreme drop of voltage in the instrumen cluster.

Good point, girls are more worthy than goats in the most cases. I found a way to smallarize pics on the phone when really needed that. I was posting from my trip the recent time having no computer handy. What I did was sending a pic via Whatsapp to myself. Found that possible, probably had to make a contact in the phonebook with my own number, don't remember already. Than further after recieving overwhatsapped images I had to save them in a folder in a gallery since they didn't go to "Whatsapp images" for some reason. Than had them taken from that folder and uploaded on the site. They didn't go in a certain preferred size I would like to but became being something like 300Kb. Pretty reasonable in relation to 6-7Mb my (crazy or stupid?) phone uses to make.

Sounds very promising. All the community is highly intrigued! BTW have you collected the grille opening trim? It was avalible from PAI, at least recently.

Sounds (and looks) good. There were also Western Contractor style hoods, with a different grill, actually a net. As I recall there was a talk of they were shorter.

I have done a bit more complicated job in the past. I didn't want to rest my old posts with illustrations removed completely. But got to the limit on the attachments. So I copied those files on my computer, re-sized down to some tiny size (50-100kb) and uploaded them back deleting the originals. But I didn't post really great amount of pics during the times. Starting from that point I try upload already resized images. But can't smallarize pics in a phone, probably need some software I don't have.

Sorry for the starter fail. I guess the truck is automatic. Could be push started if it's a stick. And even driven for a few days that way just by parking on a grade. Also nice to see the progress over the new place. The BBQ shed looks well built. And I really like the squirrel. It's seldom to see one with a water hose.

P. S. Inner rails are 1/4" thick, each one. Same thick as the main rails in many cases. 1/8" is too thin for that application.

I didn't work with B-models but noted such a fact on a R-model. Ok, R and RD. Transmission mounts looked pretty similar, I'm even sure the casting was the same. But those off a RD were milled off more over the mounting surface to compensate the thickness of the frame inner rail. My R-model has a single frame and its original tranny mounts had that "excessive meat". So I couldn't use RD mounts or would need to add spicers as DCW mentioned above. Also I got a trouble using a rear crossmember off a single axle R-model to be installed into a double frame, also R-model. Just couldn't fit it in since it was wider. At the same time some spots utilize spacers, that's true. For example a bracket for a torque rod attaches to the frame rail with a spacer. Looks like you don't need it if use that same rod and the bracket with a double frame. I talk regarding a R-model again, to be clear.

I would also think so. Or better to say I just don't see any other reason. Grease overfill is excluded. May be normal in very theory but I wouldn't like such way of things definitely. So seems like setting some reasonable minimum play is the way. Speaking the terminology I also use to have that feeling of getting more and more complicated the more I try to say clearer. I admitted on the forum a few times that American technical terminology is a kind of mess in many cases with plenty of terms of slang origin. I can state this relating to terminology used in Soviet Union design documentation. Although the most Russian technologies of 20th century were based on Western (mostly US and German) designs local engeneers made large job investigating and systemizing the info which followed by designing and establishing strict industrial standards. Those also conteined standartized names for certain parts, units, assemblies etc. Also it was prescribed of what should be called as a part, what is a unit or a assembly etc. Very important point when you read a (good) book of those times and you see a name (a term) used for a certain part that exactly same name would be used all over the book including text in pics, schemas and specifications. Unfortunately modern literature doesn't follow those standards being translated (inprofessionally in many cases) or just written by undereducated specialists.

Ok, figured. When you mentioned a "carrier bearing" I got thinking of a bearing in a carrier, a pinion bearing. I always surprized the fact the axle reducer unit is called a carrier (and we even spoke about that on here). The "diff" term also doesn't sound technically correct since there are gears in the carrier also, not a diff only. But the things are as they are. I think determining pre-load in a press or a vise is the right way to go. To my understansding for the particular task you have very light pre-load is needed. Fat or oil used in the original bearing was of much lower standards than modern materials so a bit of pre-load wouldn't make damage. At the same time play may give space for potential vibrations. And I doubt you need extensive pre-load having no plans for really big milage.

If you want accurate figures for your model project don't use sizes measured off a diagram. They're drawn schematically and in the most cases not up to scale. Factory blue print would work but they're for a certain part or a unit, not a whole rig. Another way of scaling off is a photo taken from a big distance. For perfection it's a photo made by yourself using zoom. Sure such approach is seldom achievable so pics from the net makes the job. Look for good ones made at right angle. You need one known measurement (for example the wheel base or a tyre OD) which allows you to count out others by proportioning. You're right The Most of Mack models were offered with different wheel bases. MH was not an exclusion. BTW right at the moment I'm on a hunt for the MH wheelbase chat. Need it for my big scale project. Haven't found any so far but noted a few exact figures. Including that one pointed in the diagram you posted. That figure of 4140 mm means 163 inches. Other figures I previousely saw all were odd numbers (for RW's and CL's too). But for example R-models (along with a few other older ones) are even. This way I suspect odd number for the wheelbase is a feature for MH/RW/CL chassis. If I'm not wrong Mack used to offer a line of wheelbases to choose from with a certain step. Particulary it was 4 or 6 or 8 inches. If I know that step exactly I would be fine with what I'm looking for. Unfortunately IDK yet. Speaking the spring brackets style and other chassis components I have a bunch of pics made from under trucks. I just don't want to flood up the forum with such content which is doubtly interesting for the most of the folks on here. Also they images are heavy and upload capacity of an account is limited (ask me how I know). So PM me your e-mail and I would send what you want to see your way.

Hope for the deal to be done. So what the theory says on the crytical speed? Is it higher for fatter or heavier shaft? Or did just that "seat of pants" engineering work out well enough? And what's up the bearing temp? Do you worry on extra stress put on it by larger shaft? Or did you just serviced it and wanted to check?