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Porch Pup
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About Warpman89

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    Old Iron Expert

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    Plainfield, IL
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    Making Money!

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  1. You are looking at a 2013 Mack MP8 diesel engine with 445 HP. This engine is model MP8 445E, serial number 999744 and engine family CUPTH12.8S01. This engine has 175,000 miles on it and runs well. This truck was equipped with the Mack Maxitorque automatic transmission, 45,000 pound rears with 355 gear ratio all of which are available at an extra charge. THIS ENGINE IS OUT OF THE TRUCK AND READY TO BE shipped. We are parting this truck out Price for the engine is $9000 You can make offer for the rest of the parts.
  2. You are looking at a 2013 Mack MP8 diesel engine with 445 HP. This engine is model MP8 445E, serial number 999744 and engine family CUPTH12.8S01. This engine runs well. This truck was equipped with the Mack Maxitorque automatic transmission, THIS ENGINE IS OUT OF THE TRUCK AND READY TO BE shipped. I am We are parting this truck out. This engine comes complete with the turbocharger and has a 90 day parts only warranty. Asking for $9700 shipped for engine only
  3. Price USD: Asking for $4700 shipped Make: MACK AI-350 Model: NON-EGR MODEL Year: 2004 Serial#: 4J2532 Description: (USED) 2004 MACK AI-350 DIESEL ENGINE FOR SALE, SERIAL# 4J2532, STOCK# 003318, TEST RUN 5-16-2017 RUNS PERFECT!! The engine comes tested with a 30 day warranty on the block and crank. Thanks
  4. Do you or does anyone else here have an exploded diagram of the shift cylinders? Now that you mention it has all the symptoms of a missing or slipped o-ring
  5. Gentlemen, I have a problem. I have the trtxl1070b 12 speed and lately I have had trouble getting it into reverse and sometimes high range, both of which are shifted by air as you well know. Furthermore, when the High-Direct-Neutral-Reverse control valve/knob is in direct, I have a lot of air coming out of the exhaust line that comes off of the knob. When I had trouble shifting into reverse in the past, I would roll forward at a low speed and air shift into reverse, but now I am no longer able to even do this. Do this sound like the knob needs to be rebuilt or what? The transmission is a rebuilt unit which was installed about one and a half years ago. Everything worked fine after installation. I ordered a knob rebuild kit from Mack today. They had two available, the "major" kit and the "minor" kit. I got the minor kit because it was about $100 cheaper, though it probably not as complete. Any help on what the problem might be or advice on how to install this kit would be very helpful and appreciated.
  6. thanks guys, i figured it was residue merry christmas
  7. I have oil in my air system, it has been a problem for a few years now. The truck did not see much use so it was not a big issue and there were no safety issues. However, it was not uncommon for a decent amount of oil to come out of the air tank if it was drained. Also, the air dryer pressure regulator would spit out a nice circle of oil spray every time it would exhaust. So, about 6 months ago I replaced both the air compressor and air dryer. There is now very little oil when I drain the air tank, but still some. The air dryer still spits out a little oil, but less than before. The "new" air compressor was a rebuilt unit from Mack and works like it should. The new air dryer is brand new. So, what is the deal here? Is a little oil common for a 20 year old truck? Is the oil I'm seeing just "residue" from years of having oil going into the air system? Any help is appreciated
  8. Hey man i have an 88 also with the same engine and pump combo, so you caught my interest when you said your boost went from 16 to 24 if you have some pictures of this modification so i can better understand the procedure, i would greatly appreciate it keep on truckin!
  9. yup, she's almost all back together now and all the air lines are back where they belong thanks to all replies
  10. Thank You! I am still unsure of one port on the top of the transmission part. On my diagram, I labeled it "5", although it had no number. It is actually part of the number "4" port. Do you have any idea what this is for and more importantly where it goes?
  11. Here's what i am talking about in the second paragraph: This is the bottom of the shifter knob, the numbers and letters are somewhat visible, 1,2,3,4, "S", and "E" This is the air shifter that goes on top of the tranny, it has 5 air line connections going to it, 4 of which are numbered This is a diagram i made up, which links 1-4 on the tranny with 1-4 on the shifter knob, "S" on the shifter knob is already connected, leaving "E" without a destination. Does anyone know where "E" goes? and where does the extra connecter on the tranny labeled "4" go? any help would be greatly appreciated By the way, the weird shape at the bottol of my diagram is supposed to be the top of the tranny shifter, as it appears in the picture above it
  12. Gentlemen, i am in a pickle. In the the process of installing a rebuilt 12 speed in my r688 tractor, my "professional" mechanic cut and disconnected all of the air lines that go to the air shifter on the transmission. Thankfully, i marked on the end by the shifter handle, but the ends that connect to the tranny are not marked, so i am not sure where they go exactly. I am writing this with the hope that someone somewhere has a diagram of air lines for such a truck, God willing. My Mack dealership had nothing, so i am turing to the experts on this forum for help. Any help or leads will be greatly appreciated. On a side note, through thorough cleaning, i have found that the bottom of the shifter knob/selector has numbers and letters for each air line and the same numbers are on the transmission. However, on the shifter selector knob, there is an "E" for one of the air lines, which has thrown me off. Otherwise, the 1-4 on the knob matches up with a 1-4 on the tranny, which im hoping is a light at the end of the tunnel. I hope there is someone on this forum that knows what i am talking about. If this doesnt make sense i can get pics
  13. hey guys, if any of you you recall from my other thread, i mentioned that my 12 speed was having issues. well, the decision has been made to pull it out and have it rebuilt. i will be doing the removal and installation myself, so i am writing this to get some advice and tricks of the trade for this undertaking. i noticed that the engine and tranny are held in by three mounts; one in the front center of the engine and two on either side of the bell housing. can i pull the tranny and leave the bellhousing on the engine? seems like that would help me avoid what could be a big job. also, while the tranny is out the clutch will be changed, so does the bellhousing have to come off for that or not necessarily? any advice will be greatly appreciated
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