Lmackattack

Prices are crazy and for no reason!!! I have hard others say a B model gets about 10 MPG bob tailing I get about 8 MPG bob tailing the RS700/285hp maxidyne. I filled up my driver side 120 gallon tank when I went to auburn. Prices were $2.07 a gal in IN at the time 110gal at 2.07= 227 good for about 770 miles..I made it back from auburn,walcott,and a few local shows and just put 20 gal @ $2.75 in this weekend. my pass 120 gal tank is shut off my companys IH with a 550HP cat gets 5.42MPG hauling 65K gross I just filled up the company truck with 240 gallons @ $2.83 = $680 I can hold 300 gal on the truck and 35 in the gen box on the trailer...so if my truck /trailer ws dry it would cost $948 to fill up. 300 gallons is good for around 1600 miles

looking good!! the dog, truck and you look right at home. I need some pics of my Bulldog and mack truck. you could go around draining swimming pools for people now LOL. not shure of the demand but it my be just enough to fund the hobby ??? what part of Phoenix are you from?? I visit the northern part of Phoenix near cave creek rd a few times each year. A good friend of mine moved out there 6 years ago and he just loves the freedom out in the desert

where is the crack at?? how was it caused?? if its done properly by someone that knows how to weld...yes its possible to fix I have seen some low budget race engines saved this way. however if it is cracked in a high stress aera you will have endless problems.

on my B model I want to make shure I have the feed and return lines hooked up correctly. the inline pump has a -6 outlet on the bottom towards the front of the engine its connected to the hand primer, on the other end I see an -6 outlet on top, and at the rear closer to the air compressor what end is the fuel in / out just want to duble check Trent

Im not shure what model it is but it looks like all the other filters that the B models have... I only filled the lube finder with a gallon because the dip stick was reading high and my hopes are when I prime the engine all the oil lines and channels will fill nd bring the oil level to normal... Am I correct in thinking that the lube finder is full of oil when the engine is running.?? Will the oil seap back into the crank case when you turn it off??reason I ask is that I see a little bleed nut on the bottom to drain it. im assuming this is for draining the housing for filter changes.?? Trent

thanks Barry. I now have alot more room to post my pics thanks again for all your hard work !

Hello Scott I just found the pics of your RS700,Sharp looking paint job. It will look real good after you fresh it up with some new paint and chrome. You will be happy after you get it up and running. My truck looked in compareable condition to yours when I got her home. took me many of nights working on it to get it looking good but I get many people that tell me how it was the nicest mack back in the day, Even got a few offers to buy her, and busness cards incase I ever want to sell her. I was just over at the yard where those 2 RS700s with the V8s under the hood. they had 2 stick 6 speeds. Tony,the owner said they were great lowboy trucks,fastest trucks here in chicago back in the day, but the engines were tempermental, he opend the door on both trucks and the engine repair info was written on the door jams. rod bearings at 150,xxx, main barings at etc.... he has a few VERY low milage C model macks in the garage...on jack stands!!!! and a few R models on jack stands... less than 100k on those also...he has not bought another truck sence 87 because the r models were bullit proof if you took care of them. Thanks for the pics Trent

DROOL!!!!! thats the one thing my truck is missing..... a V8 he has done a great job keeping his aluminum shiny.

good move Barry! what other names did he use???

to far for me but I would love to do a truck pull again!!!! get some pics

im in the same boat but going the other way LOL I just added oil to my END711 and after about 5 gallons and the dip stic says I have a little to much????. I filled the lube finder with about a gallon but have not cranked over the engine to "prime" the system. so hopefully I get it back down to the correct level

I only lost $150 from him. hope knowone gets scamed 1k+

to each his own Dale... but I like this format as your options are great.. the old board limited your options and there was no search function. As far as people posting topics or replys you are wrong about less peopl using this board..infact more people are posting and replying. The old board you were lucky to get 2-3 a day..now we are getting 5-8 per day. Besides just because we have only thing I dont like is that you are limited to posting pics. on a side note. I think Barry has done a great job setting up a place for us to talk about Mack stuff. We use this board for all sorts of truck stuff and Im glad he made this availible to us Thanks Barry!!

welcome to the board Mike. Good luck with finding your truck....so many to chouse from Trent

some of the old timers here will know the ins and outs of the older V8s from what I have heard was that the older V8s sometimes had problems...if yours made it to 1994 I would say you have a good one!!! I have a friend with (2) sister 1977 RS700Ls and both engines needed rod bearings around 150k. He said they were almost as fast loaded as empty...LOL but the engine was its strong and weak point. In my opinion the RS700Ls is the cadillac of the R models.. post some pics I would love to see yours Trent

hello neil welcome to the site Call the mack museum and give them your vin number. in return you will get a build sheet and some othe info on the truck. I sent a small donation for there time and was rewarded with a 2 1/2 think manual on mack engines and transmissions ,cab body etc.... good luck

I always wondered the same thing...why truck MFG let the wire ends live in the exposed weather conditions. even the R models have the main cab junction block on the fire wall ON THE OUTSIDE!!!!??? However I am suprized how long they last! My B model had lots of spliced wires but the ends were fine. the only problem I found on the ends were when I tried to remove them from the studs..and the studs were correded or just would spinn in the jct block. They make a junction block with a rubber grommet and a cover with a rubber seal. I saw one on the internet for hot rodders and want to get a few for both the R and B model

I will soon be adding all new lines,valves,chambers...everything whats the best way to chouse the needed parts? I was thinking that I could use my R model as a template and just copy that air set up to keep both my trucks the same setup??? I have looked at the bendix web site and that gives me a good clue. how have others done it?? Thanks Trent

I have heard of some people getting hurt or killed fighting with people that are driveing off and not paying for gas!!! its sad that this is possible. If I hear one more tree hugger complain about why we cant build a refinery im going to need a new bumper !!!! J/K

Lowest found in Chicago aera Diesel....2.75 reg unleaded......2.75 Highest Diesel....3.69 reg unleaded.......3.69

sounds like a plan dave. thats how I got all the fuel out of the tanks when I removed them. Worked pretty good then. I will have a friend help me get her going. The hardest part is trying to do everything on your own. I filled her up with all the fluids tonight and mounted the fuel tank brackets. i pick up the 12v starter friday and might get her cranked over this weekend?? That is if i can PAY FOR FUEL!!!! LOL

good to hear Andy get some pics for us when she gets home! I live in a town home and cant keep my 2 trucks in the driveway. luckly my part time job is only 3 miles from me and I keep both rigs there for "free"in exchange for a a few day/nights work each month

the puff limiter, as recently explained, to me simply delays the fuel flow to the injectors to allow the turbo spool up. with it removed when you mash the peadal it opens the rack 100% dumping excess fuel that does not get fully used as the turbo is not spooling.. To pass emissions I would hook up the puff limiter and see if that helps. if thats still not enough, set the engine kill cable to where the truck will run but cant flow 100% fuel.... last time I took a truck to an emission test(2 years ago?) we did this just incase it would not pass LOL... you can still get 2100RPM with no load.. after you pass re adjust the engine stop and you will be ok....that if they dont check the linkages just a FYI a mack mech told me the driving the truck with no puff limiter can cause the fuel to wash the oil off the cyl walls causing extra wear and it also will mix into the oil. smoke is cool..... but dont F up the engine over it Good luck Trent

larry do you still have the drag pics from the old board? I think thats where I saw them last??? Trent

i have seen many B,swith air ride seats not shure what model they were? However I would think the steering wheel would hit your legs if it raised to high going over a harsh bump??you may need straps to keep the seat from extending to far??I know my legs could hit the wheel bouncing in the stock seat.