Lmackattack

Barry thats great.... That must be funny when some punk in his Riced out Honda gets beat by a ford wagon LOL . Back in High school there was a kid that had an P.O.S chevey wagon for his first car. I remember it was pretty rusty and all the rich kids driving mom and dads bmw thought it was fun to pick a race after school with him for braging rights..I mean old chevy wagon vs. bmw easy race right?? NOT. he was spraying a simple nos set up and just left them in the dust after he got traction. LOL lots of kids lost money that summer word got around quickand no onewould race him

still looking for that?? hasent it been a wile sence you started looking? I asked a few friends first time I saw your post but with no luck I will keep asking around

that truck is in great shape for its age!! I would love to own that truck!! Andy..... could you explane what the coolpower mack engine is. I have heard that the R models came with 2 air cleaners with this engine. Was the truck in Mad Max a cool power??? it had 2 air filters

anyone have a lead on oil seals for non power steering boxes? mine is leaking pretty bad and I want to replacethem before I install the box onthe frame

try some aftermarket companys like pai indistries...my work gets some parts from them when mack is out of stock on needed items. Trent

someone told me to wait untill winter, fill it with water and let it start to freeze. keep your eye on it and it will push back out??? never tried it as the risk of cracking it?? or you could cut the ends off and have new skins welded on

I wont make that show, I will be in WI for a sports car race event at road America. figures you have the weekend i dont LOL Trent

lets see LOL.. p.s.... dont get fired

Verry cool Barry

the B cabs are always a rust issue. my first B model had "for sale" signs for a floor boards.. you know the ones made from steel a little thinker than pop cans LOL. the rest of the cab "looked" ok but when i started to remove the window rubbers all hell broke louse. I would try to save the cab if its reasonable, but if its not look for one in better shape. If you live out west near CA I know a guy that has a great cab. You can only save so much before its unrepairable. Larry i was just looking at your floor pics on the old BMT site last week I will have to see if they are still there!!! I was looking for the door hinge placement.LOL Trent

good find there and the price is not to bad for a Magnum. figures it ended up as a dump truck most old macks do. I found my RS700L only a year after it was used in demolition, Luckly it was not beat up. Trent

correct me if im wrong ...to add piston coolers to the END673 you could "simply" tap into the oil gally??? I heard that from someone that added a turbo to there non turbo 673 trent

No prob glad I could help. that truck would look great with new wood flooring. if you get more pics I will be happy to post them Trent

http://www.milbestlight.com/swf/game/game1.swf

if its not a bother to you it may help ???? I might stop over at the mack dealer tomorrow and check out there B I will let you know if I get over there. Thanks for the offer Trent

I finnialy got back working on the B model tonight and I am having a fitment issue with the doors. It seams as if the top lines up the bottom wont and vice versa. If I center it then it interfears with the cowl aera between the door and cab. When I move it back the door wont shut as the inside of the door rubbs the cab wall (striker plate wall) one thing i was thinking is the hindges are installed incorrect? is there a specific way to install hindges?? right now the upper hindges have the "notch" removed to help guide the door on to the hindge any help is thankfull trent

not shure??? did the trucks have air ride? maybee the air bags were down???

I was on I-294 yesterday and I saw a gold/oarnge/champane color Mack R700 or RS700L. it did not have the tall hood so it may be a pre 1972 RS model?? I think it was pulling a flat bed with a tarped load? i was to busy staring at the tractor. nice big sleeper on the back. lots of tastfull chrome from its era, polished wheels and tanks. On the side of the sleeper it was painted "Caddilac Mack" anyone ever see this Rig??

im shure you could swap the injectors and pump etc... but the pistons bore stroke may be diffrent? not shure. that U model looks real good for $2500 .Not much room for the dog in the passenger foot well... LOL

with tires or without?? I could weigh my old style b model camelback at the yard if our scale still works?? it has the 5 spoke style less rims and tires. I have heard air ride is less weight, not shure if its true???

Here is your truck pic. good find !!!!

sounds like a project on your hands..LOL if the 237 has a oldstyle luberfinder setup you could simply remove the oil lines and filter assy from the block and get the spin on filter adapter that bolts to the pass side of the engine. then you could use the easy 2 spin on filters fram what I have heard with people installing 237s in b models is that the 237s pully on the water pump extend farther out than the thrmodynes engines, you may only need to replace the pullys ??? as far as the rear engine mounts its a loss to what would work. hopefully a diffrent bell housing will solve the trans/engine connection. I cant remember if the rear mounts are on the bell housing or trans??? so cant give a suggestion there let us know what works. I have some R model frame mounts on a scrap truck in the yard. If you need then i will pull them off for you no charge but shipping trent

try again

welcome to the board John. Im no veteran as im only 26 but I do have a long family history of owning macks. and you are correct tip turbines do sound cool pulling a load. as a kid I thought they were twin turbos... LOL Lots of R models are becomeing fairly cheep to buy so just keep your eyes open on ebay and truckpaper.com. thats where I found my current truck. A tandem axel would be best in my opinion, that way you can basicly pull what ever you want. A short WB is great for the city but I always liked the med stretched frame as it will ride a little better and have room for tool boxes and other goodies. just dont be in a hurry I made that mistake with my first truck and later found all sorts of major problems. take your time and ask lots of questions here is a pic of my mack with your favioret 285 Tip Turbine. trent

Sounds like the frame and hood are from diffrent trucks?? If its a R700 you will have a longer hood than the standard R600 models. If the frame says what you say then i would stick with that serial number as what the truck is. You can contact the mack museum and see if they have the build sheet. send a small donation and you will get lots of info an what the truck was equiped with from the factory. I would guess they just added a long hood at some time for personal prefrence ??? look to see if the cab mounts have been moved that would be a clear giviway as the 700 model cab sits about a foot further back. look at the gear shifters to see where the hole in the floor is for them to come thru. My RS700 has the hole near the firewall where the R600s will have the hole closer in the middle of the floor. if you find a patch or the hole is in the middle this might give you another clue that this truck started out as a R685 with a standard hood.? Someone could give you more info about your +/- ground issues. I belive you simply reverse the wires on the dash guages, and swith the wires on the batt???but dont quoit me...... look at the pumpkins. most mack rears you pull the diffs upward. other mfg like to place them side ways. the mack side covers may or may not have mack script on them...depending on the year of the truck. the ID plate on a Mack rear will be on the top.passenger side on the slanted plate. it should read something CRD92/93 and below that it will have a ratio..i.e 4.17 hope this helps