Lmackattack

I always wondered the same thing...why truck MFG let the wire ends live in the exposed weather conditions. even the R models have the main cab junction block on the fire wall ON THE OUTSIDE!!!!??? However I am suprized how long they last! My B model had lots of spliced wires but the ends were fine. the only problem I found on the ends were when I tried to remove them from the studs..and the studs were correded or just would spinn in the jct block. They make a junction block with a rubber grommet and a cover with a rubber seal. I saw one on the internet for hot rodders and want to get a few for both the R and B model

I will soon be adding all new lines,valves,chambers...everything whats the best way to chouse the needed parts? I was thinking that I could use my R model as a template and just copy that air set up to keep both my trucks the same setup??? I have looked at the bendix web site and that gives me a good clue. how have others done it?? Thanks Trent

I have heard of some people getting hurt or killed fighting with people that are driveing off and not paying for gas!!! its sad that this is possible. If I hear one more tree hugger complain about why we cant build a refinery im going to need a new bumper !!!! J/K

Lowest found in Chicago aera Diesel....2.75 reg unleaded......2.75 Highest Diesel....3.69 reg unleaded.......3.69

sounds like a plan dave. thats how I got all the fuel out of the tanks when I removed them. Worked pretty good then. I will have a friend help me get her going. The hardest part is trying to do everything on your own. I filled her up with all the fluids tonight and mounted the fuel tank brackets. i pick up the 12v starter friday and might get her cranked over this weekend?? That is if i can PAY FOR FUEL!!!! LOL

good to hear Andy get some pics for us when she gets home! I live in a town home and cant keep my 2 trucks in the driveway. luckly my part time job is only 3 miles from me and I keep both rigs there for "free"in exchange for a a few day/nights work each month

the puff limiter, as recently explained, to me simply delays the fuel flow to the injectors to allow the turbo spool up. with it removed when you mash the peadal it opens the rack 100% dumping excess fuel that does not get fully used as the turbo is not spooling.. To pass emissions I would hook up the puff limiter and see if that helps. if thats still not enough, set the engine kill cable to where the truck will run but cant flow 100% fuel.... last time I took a truck to an emission test(2 years ago?) we did this just incase it would not pass LOL... you can still get 2100RPM with no load.. after you pass re adjust the engine stop and you will be ok....that if they dont check the linkages just a FYI a mack mech told me the driving the truck with no puff limiter can cause the fuel to wash the oil off the cyl walls causing extra wear and it also will mix into the oil. smoke is cool..... but dont F up the engine over it Good luck Trent

larry do you still have the drag pics from the old board? I think thats where I saw them last??? Trent

i have seen many B,swith air ride seats not shure what model they were? However I would think the steering wheel would hit your legs if it raised to high going over a harsh bump??you may need straps to keep the seat from extending to far??I know my legs could hit the wheel bouncing in the stock seat.

the fuel tank will go on very soon and I want to start the engine as its been a long time sence its been ran. is it better for me to use a temp gallon jug filled with fuel held above the fuel filter to let gravity help prime the system? all the lines filter and pump are pretty dry or have old diesel in them and I am figuring trying to suck it up from the fuel tank will be hard on the starter if. there is a little hand primer pump on the feed line but it seams stuck as it likely was never used??? do I need to crack the injector lines also?? I figure i will to get all the air out?? any help will be great Trent

try now????? I suck at the internet LOL I just tried at home and it is working. its just a silly vid of my truck belching black smoke here is a pic

Hello Dale not shure if I will need a diagram I soon will be making new harnesses for the B model. looks like it is just time consuming. did the diagram help you or did it basicly tell you what you already know? Trent

video I figured I would have a little fun on sunday. I was cleaning up the dash a little and adding some switches for the light bar and back up lights. I was pulling some cut air lines and wires and got a "great" idea...I unhoked the air line to puff limiter from the dash valve and re routed it thru a unused air switch located on the dash. now I can do a smoke show and pass emissions at the flick of a switch video here video yes.... im a little nuts Trent

I finnaly scraped off the grease off a spare gear box i have I figured it was a 7220 but under the dirt was 7210. what is the 10 stand for

I just removed one from a wrecked R model last month the top of the cab was bent up badly and it came out with no tools. I simply just pulled if free from the rubber weather strip. I cant remember if it had a lock strip in the middle. if it does it will be a pice of cake to remove/install. trent

Hopefully they keep the truck in good shape or sell it to you to restore. One of the best part of buying a old or truck is finding all the stories about what it did before you took it home. I mailed the 2nd owner of my truck some pics and asked him to give me a call if he was intrested in telling me about any past info on the truck. he gave me loads of info that I would have never guessed. simple things like that my bumber was off a cabover mack, 5th wheel was replaced, the brakes and tires on the truck were the ones he put on before he sold it, that little info further showed me that the truck was well taken care of, the last owner was a demolition company that did no maintince to it for the year they had it. luckly I got it for a good price and freshend her up a little Trent

welcome to the board post a pic of your new dog!! Im a big fan of R/RS 700 models Trent

I spoke with my mack parts guy today and he said there were a few revisions with the 9 speed. the range selector/clutch plates , some gears, and counter shaft were the some of the changes. he said that in most cases it was because the drivers did not know how to shift them properly, He also said that some of the early productions had problems people speak of, mainly with the clutch plates, he said that they were very stiff and caused early wear on some of the internals. the plate revision had a softer engaugement that reduced wear. I guess if the trans was shifted correctly or had the revisions made all will be ok I like the 2 stick for the city but the direct drive is no fun on the highway thanks for all the input Trent

any things possible...... some things I have seen that are diffrent between the e6 and e9 instlations are... front engine mount, rear engine mounts. steering box, exhaust system, air filter location, IC piping, water piping, possible radiator mounting location.possible radiator size?/IC size. go for it

the 672/675 etc... that I have driven all had weak engine breaks. i just figured because they had less ci than the other engine mfg's. the jake brake in the company truck (550Cat) works great. it feels like i am on the brakes when its on stage III.

a few years ago there was that strike held in front of the white house? diesel around me is 2.84 at the small stations and a lettle less at a truck stop. hope it goes down. its costing all of us money. there is no reason for diesel to be more than reg unleded

thanks for the reply I am asking because I have mixed reviews I am driving my friends dump truck on some weekends for the last year and it has the 9 speed. I noticed the range change was not smooth at all. He replaced the clutch pack and a year later its doing it again. Another friend has the same trans and we went from Chicago to N.Y and back with not one scratch from shifting it. the local truck puller has a superliner with a jused up V8 with the 9spd and he's heard its a tempermental trans but has not given him problems...yet

On both my trucks I used PPG DCC single stage then used PPG clear coat to get the deep shine. I did wet sand the B model and buffed it with rubbing compound then had my friend wax it. I did all the body work on the B and painted about 40% of her, then my friend took over to smooth out any mistakes I made... If you saw my RS at Auburn it had lots of oarnge peal and a few runs in the clear coat. thats what the B model looked like before we wet sanded it. I am no expert at painting and had lots of help from friends who work in auto body.

I have driven them both over the road and in the dirt and I like them alot because it gives you more gears to work with and it has an overdrive to keep RPMs low on the big roads. However I have heard quite a few people say the 9 Spd is not a good dirt truck transmission because there is a problem with the range selectors in the gearbox?? any truth to this has anyone had a major issue with them?

dont forget that the e9 is comparibly small for a V8 at 998ci and is also 15 some years old. The marine E9 engines were 600+ HP and some milatary engines were tested to 900HP. I think the reason the E9 is not availible state side is that it is heavy, and most current 6cyl are making the same hp/tq as the older v8s. also less things to fail on a 6cyl dont get me wrong. a V8 under my hood would put a big smile on my face