Lmackattack

I will try to explane there is a long square tube with a flat plate and king pin (simmilar to a end dump trailers ) that locks into your 5th wheel, at the rear of this square tube (past the end of the truck frame) there is a vertical tube welded to the end that extends down past the frame rails. on the lower part of the square tube is a round dounut thats welded to the tube. this is wher the hooks from the sled attach.. you set the ground hight of this device (forgot the standard hight) with the use of a block that is placed under the tube hooked into the 5th wheel, If the hight needs to be higher you would move this block towards the rear of the truck and lower towards the 5th wheel. the weight of the sled pulling on the chains will keep plenty of weight on this tube and (hopefully LOL) will not allow this tube on the frame rails to slide. the sled is what you would see on TV. it has wheels at the rear and a steel plate at the front. when you start the pull the weight is at the rear of the sled over the sled wheels as you drive down the track the weight begins to move towards the front of the sled making it harder for the truck to move as you are now draging the weight on a steel plate. All that attaches to the truck to the sled is a few chains on that dounut. I dont know what the load is but it looks like steel plates that can be added or removed depending on the class and whats pulling the sled. hopefully Jon Mead (Bulldogbred) will give some info I left out. he is the one who turned me on to truck pulling Trent

my first b model was double framed and it was spreading badly near the rear of the truck. i tryed some of that rust remover and it worked if you could get it all out. My problem was getting to the back side of the inner rail. My plan was to remove the inner rails and stretch the outer rails then add some clean inner rails. the farther I went to remove the cancer the more problems I found..i.e cracked outer rails. If you dont remove all the rust between the rails you may have a problem getting them lined up again. After a year of messing with rust problems I decided to just find a good single frame B model and use that platform. I know those double frame macks are tough as nails but the frames need some attention if you live were salt is used often. then again you could always find one of those "good" old school mechinics that could pull the inner rail out of the truck when it sat on jack stands. heard about it but never saw it done. good luck Trent

the mid 80"s, I was still in grade school but from what I can see that was a great era for strong running diesels From what I can gather is that fuel companys blend diesel fuels slightly diffrent depending on the aera its to be sold in. i.e cold or warm avg temps etc... last year I filled up one of our work trucks in febuary and it never gelled up even when it sat in a very cold windy week. maybee just luck?? I heard a few speak of this low sulfer fuels that may be in circulation as of now??? EPA is cutting down on diesels big time. I think the next EPA regulation (for now) is 2006 then 2010. welcome to the new site Trent

hello and nice model you have. I also build models of diffrent macks in my spare time. I am not shure if the CH or CL models have made an apperance in 1/25 scale plastic/resin kits but there are lots of other models made by aftermarket companys. check spaulding trading and shiping for some cool truck models Trent

took some pics of the trucks in the yard where I work at on weekends (part time). The superliner has a V8 Mack with lots of chrome and twin air cleaners. good running truck but needs a rebuild soon as its getting weak. All the other R models and superdogs have 300Hp 6 clys Macks or 350HP cummings The Red RD is a 2000 glider kit Owned buy a good friend of my father. It is the nicest R model I have had the pleasure to drive. It has a Mech 300 with a 2 stick 6 speed. great for the city and can pretty much keep up with all the new high HP junk electronic engines. Trent

this is getting sad . Im posting tonight about problems getting parts for "newer "R,U DM etc.... I was at mack tonight looking for the black panels for the dash and had no luck as the parts guy tells me they are all obsolete parts besides the largest center panel. the black/charcoal interiors are also no longer made, I dont know whats going on with mack but it seams that after volvos take over, They are not intrested in keeping older truck parts in stock. I under stand that older trucks will have updated parts and my VIN number will show parts no longer made for a 78 RS mack. but why is it that I can go to my Mack dealers lot and take a vin number off a new RB and find that many parts are hard to locate or no loger made??? I just read fullfuels post and he is haveing simmilar problems with running gear. I hope that the aftermarket companys pick up if volvo does not want the market for "Newer" trucks Trent

looks like it was a sweet truck before the corrosion got to it. That trunion looks like it would tear off the frame under a hard pull LOL. Does the truck have any story behind it that you know?

Cool pics does that blue R model have an open top cab??? cant see it clearly I have a few pics of mack fire trucks from the old BMT site I will have to post them for you

"Its been a few years but I remember it like this" but thanks anyways for clearing it up

a 2 stick 6 speed is realy a 5 speed with the option of a low first gear for extream off road or heavy hauling. the main box has 5 foward gears the aux has revers, Low and direct under normal use . you only shift the main stick (closest to your leg).1-2-3-4-5 the aux box stays in "Direct" If you are very heavy or in a hole and need to climb out you would put the aux or compound box into "low" and use the main in 1st. After the truck is out of the hole mud etc...and on flat level ground you would shift the aux box from "low" to "direct" accelarate then shift 2-3-4-5 with the main. So basicly its like splitting 1st gear in half with the aux box. this gives you 6 foward speeds. However the shift from "low" to "direct" has to be done carefully as if the truck is still climbing out of a hole you likely will miss shift as the slow road speed will fall very quick. I always let the truck get on flat ground bring the RPMs to 1600 or so and then make the shift. A B model with a 20 speed or 18 speed depending on what you want to call it "Quad box" shifts diffrently Its been a few years but I remember it like this the main. ( farthest from your leg). has 5 positions for foward and 1 for reverse the aux or compound box has 4 positions low low,low split,hi split, direct you start with Compound in low low/main in 1st shift main 2-3-4-5 grab both sticks/ move compound to low split and the main stick to 1st shift main 2-3-4 dont use 5th grab both sticks/move compound to hi split and main stick to 1st shift main 2-3-4-5 grab both sticks/ move compound to direct and main stick to 1st shift 2-3-4 dont use 5th I dont know why you cant use 5th in direct and low split but I heard the gears are spining to fast of the ratios are so close its useless to use those gears Trent

Wish my bulldog could pose like that

Thats the truck I saw Thanks for the pic. I for got about the trick windows. shure is in great shape for an old RS700 On the sleeper it had "cadillac mack" in some funky sticker or vinal decal Wold love to see some interior shots of this truck. Thanks again Trent

thanks for the great pics. looks like a good show to attend. whats under the hood of those small "mini" trucks.?? Trent

I agree Rob this truck looks like a plane jane cheep truck.. the dump body looks 100% better than the truck. I realy dont like the round frontal aera and the plastic fender extenders dont help prove macks vocatinal history. who is designing these trucks at mack? Do they ever ask the public what they think before production starts? I know car companys do. Give me a pad of paper and a pen, I will show you what a "truck" should look like... WAKE UP MACK!!!!! this truck is a sorry example of the great trucks mack once made. End of my rant Trent Blasco ..a.k.a pissed off mack fan

ok I took the pump to a local hyd shop and they said I can use the capped off port for a return line from the lowboy trailer. so... one line from the Hyd tank to the pump one line from the pump to the trailer (dump trailer or lowboy) one line from the trailer to the 2nd return port (lowboy only) I think all is good and will be ordering some hyd lines after I weld the fitting on the back side of the tank. next question.... I have a pto thats driven off the bottom coutershaft (not the side mount) I spoke with a member here and he thinks that the counter shaft may need to be replaced with a part that couples the pto to it? I have removed my cover but have no other countershaft to compair with? anyone know if all the 2 stick 6 speed countershaft ends are all the same? It was a little dark and could not see if it mounts in there so I will try tomorrow? thanks for all the help lots to learn still Trent

tell us all about the trip !!! and where are all those pics? Hope you got some for us never seen those rears in a mack?? seen rockwells befor but it was rare. hope everything is good trent

I dont have any tow hooks on my RS700 and might need some if I start to work the truck part time in construction. I have seen some people cut out the bumper near the frame rails to fit them. is there any way to make a brace from rail to rail and use the hole in the middle of the bumper (where you stand to open hood) i am not willing to cut up this perfect pumper. so I eather need to get a diffrent one or attache them where holes are already located.

Volvo sold there automobile company to ford. Volvos main focus was to compete in the truck market and off road construction machines. If im not mistaken they are almost as big as Cat if you consider the truck division I heard this is one of the big reasons they bought mack. knowing its a good vocational truck maker. times change faster than I change my work shirt so who knows if all this is still true

gatta love the color and yes It is a great looking cabover

staneless sounds good but I just bought a Lund visior last year because I could only find the metal ones from AU..and it would have been 3x the price to have it shipped here oh well would those fit a R model? I have seen some R models with metal visors as well??? Trent

welcome to the board.. those DMs are great work trucks local guy has a U model with a short WB single axel. Its equiped with his home made tool box/bed. it hauls all his supplys around for the brick paving company he owns.

you have the side mount IC. I think they call that engine a 300+? if thats the engine you have its an econydyne so it needs more gears than the maxidyne with 5 spds. Thats because the power band is near the upper rpms on econodynes, the E6300 has a front mount IC. both are simmilar in size and placement of componets. like others said it can be done but you will run into unexpected hurdles...I say go for it a 300 HP in a B model sounds like a fun truck to own.

repost from the ATHS board I have this used hyd pump that has (1) outlet and (2) return lines. Currently it was being used as a single line set up for a dump trailer. The 2nd return fitting is capped off. I want to make a 2 line set up for a low boy Can I use this pump for it ? Im not shure how the hyd lines run for a 2 line wetkit. someone said I need to use 2 return lines? any help is great

welcome to the board...this was a recent topic last week or so here is the link http://bigmacktrucks.invisionzone.com/inde...p?showtopic=335

the color looked like a DD Blue??? and the exhaust manafold was "slightly" diffrent from a stock E9 LOL Trent