Lmackattack

thats very cool looking. will have to wait 10-20 years to find a used one that I can afford!!! Trent

I think 78-79 was when the R models went away from "standard" square tanks?? somone will for shure know.?? My dads 78 R686st buildsheet says the round steel tanks "standard" All the macks I have seen had the square steel integral steps tanks simmilar to the B models, round steel or alum integral step tanks, or the "Western" round tanks with the running board style steps mounted to the tank straps. Synder tank out on the east coast rings a bell for the MFG of the square and round intgral step tanks? I just saw some square tanks on ebay today trent

on a side note. I found that I can engage the power divider (in the mud) by taping lightly on the brake pedal. an old trucker told me to try it and it works pretty well if you are not stuck badly. I have used that a few times to get rolling in some slick (*&^. It works good as long as you are doing it safely at a slow rpm. anyone else do this? Trent

I think you will find it to be a PITA. All the steel hood R models I have seen look like the cowl aera is diffrent as well as the larger radiator. looks like alot of drilling and fabricating

I have seen a few pop up on ebay and sell cheep.. Look in junk yards as well see alot there also

you know you have a crap truck when the mfg puts air lines up front knowing its goin to br towed by a wrecker alot LOL!!!!

I would pick a nice CH over the Volvo also. I saw the inside of a Volvo at Walcott and it looked just as nice as the Mack Rawhide? or whatever model it was next to it. I do however think that the Volvos do look better than the Freight liner century or KWs T2000?bubble trouble model.. Im not a pete fan but am glad that they have kept the flat top hood models. something to look at.

I had the same feelings about mack untill they started advertising the Rawhide. Even tho its just a chrome package option it really dresses up a mack and allows it to get in the marked for owner operaters looking to add some style. I think the biggest hurdle for mack was to prove it comfort and style for over the road tractors.. I dont know about most but I always thought that mack was a much better vocational and local short haul truck.. untill the CH was introduced I rarely saw a mack with a sleeper. I think that that was a difficult transition for Mack to prove that they dont just make a great on/off road truck.. Hopefully they can continue to introduce models that retain some of the "old school " look that owner operators will want to own Trent

just wondering about the mack 12 speed.. The one I drove had a air switch on the dash for the "low low" gear. the stick had the air shifter for what I think it said "direct and OD" was that how all the mack 12 speeds were?? I did like that trans.. I would shift it 1-2-3-4- 4hi-5 direct- 5hi I always thought splitting the 1-3 gears was useless for most road conditions. the eaton 10 speed sounds like it would work just as good behind a Maxidyne. Wish I had a OD trans when going to the far away truck shows. I like the lower rpms on the big roads

thats the trans that you have 5 gear positons and have to split each one? Drove one with a detroit and hated it as that detroit was gutless if the revs were not high. had to use all the gears. We have a mack with a 12 speed at the yard and its very simmilar to the 10 speed (split each gear). luckly you can skip gears and the maxidyne can handel the "skips" Trent

will do I will have to wait untill sat when its light out and I can see whats going on. I think my friend has an amp meter I can use to see what its doing.. I think I can get a wrench on the flywheel. will try that also. thanks for the tips.. will report back on sunday with the result

Belmore no longer sells interior kits or parts for R models. Called them 6 months ago and again last month the rep said mack bought the remainder of ther inventory a year or more ago. Cant even get interior parts for a 2002 RD?? If you need some tan parts let me know I have a head liner in used fair shape Trent

Thats intresting scott. never saw under the hood of a R with a Hood scoop. I thought all tip turbines got air from the air cleaner from the 2nd air tube?? Thats how my tip turbine is set up.. Learn something new every day. Havent seen any in a junk yard but will keep my eyes open for one

Hood scoops. I have seen a few R models with the rearward facing scoop placed just over the turbo. was that an option or was used on specific models. I assume it is to remove the heat produced from the turbo and help air flow over it?? I have seen them on R600s, 700s U models, and DMs just wondering the reason behind them.. another thing I have seen diffrent on Rs was on my friends RS700 hood with a diffrent hood line on top of the hood. He has the lines that runs along the sides of the hood and come up top behind the dog then the lines turn back towards the cab in a "V" shape and end near the top edges. I have seen Valuliners have this but never RS700s or other models. Most of the hoods I have seen just run a line across the top behing the dog to the other side. just a few observations

sorry to hear of the problem. It seams All the major truck companys are having problems with engines now that the EPA has a hard on for emissions. It doesent make it better when you cant fix the problem yourself because of the electronics involved. If your truck only has 20,000 on her and its caused you this many problems I would be pissed off too. however I have seen lemons in all makes and models. a friend just bought 2 new 06 petes with cat motors. both trucks have been in the shop a few times also. Bad rear main seal on one engine and faulty wireing on the other. simple fixes but lots of down time hope you get things sorted out. Trent

The Bears are going all the way!!!... Not...

No insult taken LOL. Seen plenty of people (myself included ) try to start a truck in gear Gear levers are in netural, and tires do spin when I drag it to the shop to work on it. I am thinking along the same lines you speak of. Rust or gunk in the cyl. I have the fuel filter primed with new fuel mixed with ATF. I have a hand primer and can get the fuel to spill out the return line so I figure the fuel system is ready to go after I crack the injectors. I will try to pull start her when I get someone to drive the pull truck

engine last ran 2 years ago. it had a 24 volt starter and would start up fine with (2) 12 volt battiries. yes, it turns 2 revs then stops. I hit it again 2 revs then stops

I cant seam to get the B to spin over. After hooking up the new 12V starter installing 2 new bulldog 950 CCA battires, new batt cables. and all It will do is crank over the engine 1 or 2 turns. I thought the cables may be to small so I took one batt off and connected it to a sepret old set of cables and saw no change. I tested the new batts on my R model and could easly start the R model with only the 2 batts. Im kinda lost to the problem?. Only things I have noticed is that the cables will move when I jump a wire from the batt to the silonoid. (no ignition switch yet) I did have a bees nest inthe exhaust manafold, could they have gotton into the cyl and made a mess??? any thoughts?? Trent

welcome to the site lots of good info here . what part of the country are you in? we would love to see some pics of your superdog Trent

On my B models I have noticed that the double frames may have rot or rust between them. The aluminum componets such as spring hangers and other suspention componets tend to crack if the truck was worked hard and over loaded often. the rear cab rust like you said along with the window frames and door weather strip aeras tend to be an rust issue sometimes. wireing issues like said above can be a hack job after 50 years of service. I would say as long as the running gear and frame rails are straight all other issues can be fixed fairly easy. trent

Hi david Never even herd of vector format, LOL???? I used photo shop a few years ago on my old PC and dont remember seeing that style format??