Lmackattack

Hood scoops. I have seen a few R models with the rearward facing scoop placed just over the turbo. was that an option or was used on specific models. I assume it is to remove the heat produced from the turbo and help air flow over it?? I have seen them on R600s, 700s U models, and DMs just wondering the reason behind them.. another thing I have seen diffrent on Rs was on my friends RS700 hood with a diffrent hood line on top of the hood. He has the lines that runs along the sides of the hood and come up top behind the dog then the lines turn back towards the cab in a "V" shape and end near the top edges. I have seen Valuliners have this but never RS700s or other models. Most of the hoods I have seen just run a line across the top behing the dog to the other side. just a few observations

sorry to hear of the problem. It seams All the major truck companys are having problems with engines now that the EPA has a hard on for emissions. It doesent make it better when you cant fix the problem yourself because of the electronics involved. If your truck only has 20,000 on her and its caused you this many problems I would be pissed off too. however I have seen lemons in all makes and models. a friend just bought 2 new 06 petes with cat motors. both trucks have been in the shop a few times also. Bad rear main seal on one engine and faulty wireing on the other. simple fixes but lots of down time hope you get things sorted out. Trent

The Bears are going all the way!!!... Not...

No insult taken LOL. Seen plenty of people (myself included ) try to start a truck in gear Gear levers are in netural, and tires do spin when I drag it to the shop to work on it. I am thinking along the same lines you speak of. Rust or gunk in the cyl. I have the fuel filter primed with new fuel mixed with ATF. I have a hand primer and can get the fuel to spill out the return line so I figure the fuel system is ready to go after I crack the injectors. I will try to pull start her when I get someone to drive the pull truck

engine last ran 2 years ago. it had a 24 volt starter and would start up fine with (2) 12 volt battiries. yes, it turns 2 revs then stops. I hit it again 2 revs then stops

I cant seam to get the B to spin over. After hooking up the new 12V starter installing 2 new bulldog 950 CCA battires, new batt cables. and all It will do is crank over the engine 1 or 2 turns. I thought the cables may be to small so I took one batt off and connected it to a sepret old set of cables and saw no change. I tested the new batts on my R model and could easly start the R model with only the 2 batts. Im kinda lost to the problem?. Only things I have noticed is that the cables will move when I jump a wire from the batt to the silonoid. (no ignition switch yet) I did have a bees nest inthe exhaust manafold, could they have gotton into the cyl and made a mess??? any thoughts?? Trent

welcome to the site lots of good info here . what part of the country are you in? we would love to see some pics of your superdog Trent

On my B models I have noticed that the double frames may have rot or rust between them. The aluminum componets such as spring hangers and other suspention componets tend to crack if the truck was worked hard and over loaded often. the rear cab rust like you said along with the window frames and door weather strip aeras tend to be an rust issue sometimes. wireing issues like said above can be a hack job after 50 years of service. I would say as long as the running gear and frame rails are straight all other issues can be fixed fairly easy. trent

Hi david Never even herd of vector format, LOL???? I used photo shop a few years ago on my old PC and dont remember seeing that style format??

thats a good point! every time I tell some old trucker that I am restoring an old Mack the first thing they say is "is it a B model" I say yes and they say "does it have the quad box? I learned how to drive on one of those trucks back in the day." then they go into telling how the old B with the double overdrives quads were the king of the road in there day. Always Love hearing that again and again

is this the logo you are looking for?

thats not funny!!!! I also always thought that the grills looked simmilar. Hope we never see that happen to a mack stop scaring me LOL Trent

http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=1427

that was the problem with my first B model.. the mounting tabs were very close to the tire/ rim.. only roto chambers or small (not suitable)spring brake brake cans could be used. Luckly the rears on the 2nd B model I have the tabs farther from the tires and can accept spring brakes. Trent

saw a post on the ATHS fourm the other day about IH equipment. the guy wrote "the only thing good that international built was a muanar spreader...and they woudent even stand behind that" I laughed out loud at the library where I viewed the post...Ha HA. !! LOL

Great pics Barry looks like you guys have plenty of wreckers for all types of jobs. A local tow truck company last year converted a Mack DM or DMM ??cement truck to a wrecker great old truck for the off road wrecks. when is WMSI going to restore a B model and make a wrecker out of it!!!

great stories Bob! love to hear all the stuff others have done with there trucks. Most of us here have these funny stories to tell also and it always gives me a laugh.. To post a pic scroll down to the bottom of the page and find the file attachment. then clic on browse to search your file. double click on your file you want. then click "add this attachment" after you figure that out you can start a photo album and save your pics there for all to see. great to have you aboard Bob!! Trent Blasco

In winter time It can get down to -20F but mostly hangs around 20-30F because of the warm lake effect summer time is anyware from 60-100F. Larry I just found my manual and it says depress the throttle on cold starting. I thought I had heard that before but just wanted see what others thought about that.

When Its very cold out how do you get your old mech engine going. I dont like to use either (unless very cold) and cant always plug in the blook heater. with fresh batts, no block heater, I can crank it over and it will catch after about 5 sec of cranking. I have noticed that if I keep the throttle pedal 1/2 way to the floor, it helps get it going and I can let up before the unburned fuel chokes up the engine and makes the hard knock sounds... If I dont give it extra fuel on start up it struggles a little more and takes a few trys...pluged in it starts just like in summer time. Is it safe to give it extra fuel on inital cranking it over???

thinking out loud here...the straight 5 speeds were better suited for highway use. the 2 stick 6 speeds were good for the on/off road because of the extra "low hole gear" was there if needed... in any way as long as the truck is not completly bogged down in thick mud on a hill you should be fine with the straight 5 speed. Just be easy on the clutch if trhe truck is loaded in the mud.

I put my puff on an air operated switch. when we go to shows or truck pulls I can blow the black clouds. normal driving I just let it do its thing...unless someone likes to tailgate me!!!!!

thats what I figured Mike..just looked odd when I took a close look at it and saw some diffrent traits. Thanks Trent

This truck was bought used about 2 years ago we used it for a year untill an unknown engine problem developed. It has sat behind some trailers for about a year now untill this weekend when We draged it out for the repair next week.. When I was looking art it something cought my eye.. 1) it has a the tow hooks simmilar to a "western" R model 2) it has the straight frame rails (does not bow out up front around the engine) 3) it has the RS/valuliner air tanks and batt boxes, fuel tankes etc... 4) the "standard" R hood sit a few inches higher off the rails (see gap) than normal R models but the cab is not any higher up off the frame like RS models are. When I opend the door the tag said it was built in PA in 87?? could not find a model number? only thing I could tink of is that it was a RS600 or valuliner (tall hood)at one time and then converted to a "standard" R hood ever seen one of these?? Its a nice truck inside and out.. looks like a 315 or early 350 HP tip turbine with an 13 speed. western style alum fuel tanks and hyd tank, single frame, black interior

Hi Moose I removed the standard square tanks off a B61 and installed Round aluminum aprox 50gal.. the bracket holes on the round tanks DID NOT LINE UP up with the square braket holes. so YES new holes will need to be drilled, also the bracket location is slightly diffrent between the two style tanks, so I could not use any of the square tank holes for the round tanks. hope this helps Trent

I dont know the exact set up you have but most camelbacks were pretty simmilar. I have seen the track bar mounted on some superliners with camelback. On a single frame, a thick stiffner plate was used on the outside of the rail to help take up the stress from the bar pushing and pulling on the frame.. The track bar is almost the same style that would be used on some air ride set ups. Most of the R models I have seen do not have the track bar. A little movement is normal. Mack designed it to take up some of the stress that the tandems see on dry pavement turning. I have a broshure on camelbacks and it shows that the rubber bushings allow the tandems to "steer". My rubbers are worn and they move about 2" on a hard turn. If your drive shaft is moving so much to rub the air tank or drier I would think your rears are moving more than 2"?? I have seen some rebuilt camelbacks that move just as much new as before they were rebuilt?? do they move farther one way than the other?? Trent