Lmackattack

thats a good point! every time I tell some old trucker that I am restoring an old Mack the first thing they say is "is it a B model" I say yes and they say "does it have the quad box? I learned how to drive on one of those trucks back in the day." then they go into telling how the old B with the double overdrives quads were the king of the road in there day. Always Love hearing that again and again

is this the logo you are looking for?

thats not funny!!!! I also always thought that the grills looked simmilar. Hope we never see that happen to a mack stop scaring me LOL Trent

http://www.macktrucks.com/default.aspx?pageid=1427

that was the problem with my first B model.. the mounting tabs were very close to the tire/ rim.. only roto chambers or small (not suitable)spring brake brake cans could be used. Luckly the rears on the 2nd B model I have the tabs farther from the tires and can accept spring brakes. Trent

saw a post on the ATHS fourm the other day about IH equipment. the guy wrote "the only thing good that international built was a muanar spreader...and they woudent even stand behind that" I laughed out loud at the library where I viewed the post...Ha HA. !! LOL

Great pics Barry looks like you guys have plenty of wreckers for all types of jobs. A local tow truck company last year converted a Mack DM or DMM ??cement truck to a wrecker great old truck for the off road wrecks. when is WMSI going to restore a B model and make a wrecker out of it!!!

great stories Bob! love to hear all the stuff others have done with there trucks. Most of us here have these funny stories to tell also and it always gives me a laugh.. To post a pic scroll down to the bottom of the page and find the file attachment. then clic on browse to search your file. double click on your file you want. then click "add this attachment" after you figure that out you can start a photo album and save your pics there for all to see. great to have you aboard Bob!! Trent Blasco

In winter time It can get down to -20F but mostly hangs around 20-30F because of the warm lake effect summer time is anyware from 60-100F. Larry I just found my manual and it says depress the throttle on cold starting. I thought I had heard that before but just wanted see what others thought about that.

When Its very cold out how do you get your old mech engine going. I dont like to use either (unless very cold) and cant always plug in the blook heater. with fresh batts, no block heater, I can crank it over and it will catch after about 5 sec of cranking. I have noticed that if I keep the throttle pedal 1/2 way to the floor, it helps get it going and I can let up before the unburned fuel chokes up the engine and makes the hard knock sounds... If I dont give it extra fuel on start up it struggles a little more and takes a few trys...pluged in it starts just like in summer time. Is it safe to give it extra fuel on inital cranking it over???

thinking out loud here...the straight 5 speeds were better suited for highway use. the 2 stick 6 speeds were good for the on/off road because of the extra "low hole gear" was there if needed... in any way as long as the truck is not completly bogged down in thick mud on a hill you should be fine with the straight 5 speed. Just be easy on the clutch if trhe truck is loaded in the mud.

I put my puff on an air operated switch. when we go to shows or truck pulls I can blow the black clouds. normal driving I just let it do its thing...unless someone likes to tailgate me!!!!!

thats what I figured Mike..just looked odd when I took a close look at it and saw some diffrent traits. Thanks Trent

This truck was bought used about 2 years ago we used it for a year untill an unknown engine problem developed. It has sat behind some trailers for about a year now untill this weekend when We draged it out for the repair next week.. When I was looking art it something cought my eye.. 1) it has a the tow hooks simmilar to a "western" R model 2) it has the straight frame rails (does not bow out up front around the engine) 3) it has the RS/valuliner air tanks and batt boxes, fuel tankes etc... 4) the "standard" R hood sit a few inches higher off the rails (see gap) than normal R models but the cab is not any higher up off the frame like RS models are. When I opend the door the tag said it was built in PA in 87?? could not find a model number? only thing I could tink of is that it was a RS600 or valuliner (tall hood)at one time and then converted to a "standard" R hood ever seen one of these?? Its a nice truck inside and out.. looks like a 315 or early 350 HP tip turbine with an 13 speed. western style alum fuel tanks and hyd tank, single frame, black interior

Hi Moose I removed the standard square tanks off a B61 and installed Round aluminum aprox 50gal.. the bracket holes on the round tanks DID NOT LINE UP up with the square braket holes. so YES new holes will need to be drilled, also the bracket location is slightly diffrent between the two style tanks, so I could not use any of the square tank holes for the round tanks. hope this helps Trent

I dont know the exact set up you have but most camelbacks were pretty simmilar. I have seen the track bar mounted on some superliners with camelback. On a single frame, a thick stiffner plate was used on the outside of the rail to help take up the stress from the bar pushing and pulling on the frame.. The track bar is almost the same style that would be used on some air ride set ups. Most of the R models I have seen do not have the track bar. A little movement is normal. Mack designed it to take up some of the stress that the tandems see on dry pavement turning. I have a broshure on camelbacks and it shows that the rubber bushings allow the tandems to "steer". My rubbers are worn and they move about 2" on a hard turn. If your drive shaft is moving so much to rub the air tank or drier I would think your rears are moving more than 2"?? I have seen some rebuilt camelbacks that move just as much new as before they were rebuilt?? do they move farther one way than the other?? Trent

If you are a mile or 2 from the state line I just go by and hammer down (bob tailing) if its in the middle of a state I stop. one and only time I stopped (bob tailing) I got dragged in and had to pay a $300 fine for a bad front tire and one of the slack adjusters being barely out of adjustment...this was an hour after I bought the truck. I almost went past the scale but I did not know how far the state line was?? the scale master looked at all my paperwork, log book,temp registration, insurance, and all was in check..I explaind I had just bought it gave it a quick lube and service and was on my way home. He did not care to much and was obviously looking for something wrong so he went out to the truck and gave it a full inspection. thats when he found the tire. he looked around the whole tire untill he found the spot that could fail me. Had to adj the brake 3/4 of a turn and get the tire changed before I left his scale. As the front tire (recap!!!) was going on the truck he left in his car. the truck repair guy(scale masters friend) tried chargeing me for a tire disposal. but I told him I would take care of it. now $400 later my truck was in no better shape than before.. as the tire guy left I smeared that front tire with 5th wheel grease and left it on the scale house door as a thank you present. Im a nice guy but we all know Jerks get what they deserve.. most of the scales I have been pulled into hauling for the company have been in and out with nice people to deal with. Except for CA!.. end of rant Trent

I was talking with a friend a week ago and he was telling me that there was 350HP mack with the tip turbine side mount charge air/intercooler...how were those engines?? I would think that at 350HP the side mount would be to small to cool the intake air??? and another question I always wondered with tip turbines... If the tip turbine pushes air across the intercooler/coolant fins.. where does that air go after it makes it way across the intercooler??I cant hear it escapeing under the hood... but cant see if it has a way back to the intake??? whats the story Trent

I think that when you go to renew your licence in IL it is posible that you will have to take the written CDL if you have a few speeding tickets or you got a d.u.i, accident etc.... if you have a clean record I think they just give you your new licencs and your on your way.. you have to do the written CDL test if you let your licence expire. did that last March by mistake..was 3 days over the experation date (birthday) and had to do my written CDL... I aced the CDL test but almost failed the car test ... than again, with the Gov. George Ryan licence for bribe scandal that happend 5 years ago (right when I was getting my CDL ) Everyone that I know that got there CDL around that time has been retested when they renewed there licence... funny how that happend... Trent

I think an easy way to tell if you have a 2 v or 4 v head is to look where the injector lines enter the head. my 2v 285 hp has the injector lines on the driver side on the top of the heads next to the valve covers. I think the 4v head has the lines that incert into the sides of the heads?? could be wrong but thats what I have noticed on my companys trucks. or just pop off the valve covers...

I agree about the in seat time.. I do however think that the book time is good for the NEW drivers as it makes them think a little.. I dont know how many drivers (mostly my age) I have met that dont know the basics of air brakes or able to indentify the componets on the trucks...I just had to retake my CDL written test and I passed with no problems.. It really is a simple test if you understand the basics of a trucks and how they drive Trent

I know plenty of guys that have been driving trucks for 20 + years with no CDLs.. many were granfatherd in then left the industry and came back with no CDL because they let them go thinking they would not need them again... Its a slap on the wrist and a $$$ fine. I guess it depends what risks you want to take.

Looking good.. I know lots of people ask about the 285 and 300+ engine instals. looks like it went pretty smooth for your truck?? Nice job and WE NEED MORE PICS!!! Trent

Thanks for the ideas everyone... I searced for the riv nuts and found some but they were to small for the applacation. I also figure that sence only one riv nut was going to be used it might have allowd the light to shake vibrate and possibly work the riv nut louse and let it spin in the hole....so.... i just cut a small 1/2 round hole in the cab and used a standard nut and bolt combo... I then painted the aera to prevent rust and used a rubber plug that a auto body friend uses for paintless dent repair. The interior panel will cover the spot anyways so im not to concerned

welcome to the side doug! glad you found us click on the "browse" option on the lower part of the screen find the file on your computer and click it..them clik "add into post" if you are unshure I think you can preview post to see if it was uploaded..gotal love computers