Lmackattack

thats very cool! 220 miles on the rails where do you go to run it that far? When I was a kid I went out to the railway museum in Union IL with the family. It was a great day riding trians all day but it was a short haul, about a mile each way. I would love to "hit the rails" for a long trip on a departed short line. Trent

your frame is pretty short for a sleeper and a 5th wheel. maybee you could build sleeping quarters in the trailer and keep the truck stock? I want to adda 60" sleeper to my truck but may have the same issues with the trailer hitting the rear wall??? if the 5th wheel is to far foward?

Edit: posted the wrong page this site may help? look at the bottom of the page for info??? http://www.trailerservices.com/tip/duraplatespec.html 36" is the king pin depth for the trailer listed in the link I have also seen some 46" depths dump trailers and lowboys will have something short like 15"-20" depth

62-65MPH if your lucky but we need to know more about your truck rear end ratio final drive ratio and tire size

That is a good looking truck. the red diamond remondes me of the old R.E.A company logo or the Illinois Central Railway logo

Here is the trailer that I used to move my first load . She pulls pretty good for an old truck. I moved the rubber tire loader seen in the pic from our sand/rock camp just up the road about 5 miles or so. I figure loaded,I was around 70-80k gross weight. I was suprised how good that little 285HP did pulling the loader away from a full stop. Trent

Welcome to the board Don. this is a great place to share intrest in old and new macks. I couldent open the video on my home PC so hope I can on monday at work? post some pics of the truck you drive. Trent

The price of parts are hard to argue. however I would want to know why it took 22-24hrs to do the job?(if at or around $100 per hr) If they could give a good reason that it took so long you have no choice to pay the bill. I would want to speak with the mech and service guy to see why it took 3 days to complete the job? you could ask to see what the book says for the AVG time to pull a head and install a head. I would guess 6hrs to pull and 6hrs to replace but thats at my slow speed.

there is a used truck parts yard in souther WI on I94 near Konosha (spelling?) Erickson truck parts is the place if I remember. they had 5 Chicago FD CFs out back give them a call oh, and welcome to the message board Trent

Over the last month I have gathered the needed parts for a Wet kit. This last weekend I had the fittings welded to the RH fuel tank and hade the lines made up. I added Hyd fluid tonight and it Works!!! It raised the dump trailer and can operate a low boy. Everything went smooth and had a little luck along the way getting used parts cheep and having the needed parts installed in the trans already. The PTO I have is installed on the 2 stick 6 speed in the lower countershaft so it can operate when the engine is turning instead of using the gear levers to control the speed. next on the list is a barred 5th wheel for frameless dump trailers and a new air slide cyl. will have some pics tomorrow Trent

I think that there were 2 companys that were making the fiberglass hoods. I have seen 2 diffrent styles at the shows so it makes sence. the better of the 2 was almost an exact replica "standard" B61 it would be hard to tell by passing it on the highway the other style I have seen had a more square look at the front and may or may not have had 4 round headlights trent

call celli trucking in schiller park IL(nortwest mack sales) they had a few that were in a trailer out back in there yard. not shure if they are still there but I saw them last year. Trent

I have Fontane no slack,air slide 5th wheel and I want to be able to pull a frameless dump trailer. My problem is that the way my 5th wheel is made I see no easy way to mount a bar and still be able to slide it. I know you can buy a 5th wheel that has a bar at the front to hold it stationary when pulling a dump. but I would like to avoid buying a new one if I dont have to. do they make kits to convert to a barred 5th wheel Trent

I will try to explane there is a long square tube with a flat plate and king pin (simmilar to a end dump trailers ) that locks into your 5th wheel, at the rear of this square tube (past the end of the truck frame) there is a vertical tube welded to the end that extends down past the frame rails. on the lower part of the square tube is a round dounut thats welded to the tube. this is wher the hooks from the sled attach.. you set the ground hight of this device (forgot the standard hight) with the use of a block that is placed under the tube hooked into the 5th wheel, If the hight needs to be higher you would move this block towards the rear of the truck and lower towards the 5th wheel. the weight of the sled pulling on the chains will keep plenty of weight on this tube and (hopefully LOL) will not allow this tube on the frame rails to slide. the sled is what you would see on TV. it has wheels at the rear and a steel plate at the front. when you start the pull the weight is at the rear of the sled over the sled wheels as you drive down the track the weight begins to move towards the front of the sled making it harder for the truck to move as you are now draging the weight on a steel plate. All that attaches to the truck to the sled is a few chains on that dounut. I dont know what the load is but it looks like steel plates that can be added or removed depending on the class and whats pulling the sled. hopefully Jon Mead (Bulldogbred) will give some info I left out. he is the one who turned me on to truck pulling Trent

my first b model was double framed and it was spreading badly near the rear of the truck. i tryed some of that rust remover and it worked if you could get it all out. My problem was getting to the back side of the inner rail. My plan was to remove the inner rails and stretch the outer rails then add some clean inner rails. the farther I went to remove the cancer the more problems I found..i.e cracked outer rails. If you dont remove all the rust between the rails you may have a problem getting them lined up again. After a year of messing with rust problems I decided to just find a good single frame B model and use that platform. I know those double frame macks are tough as nails but the frames need some attention if you live were salt is used often. then again you could always find one of those "good" old school mechinics that could pull the inner rail out of the truck when it sat on jack stands. heard about it but never saw it done. good luck Trent

the mid 80"s, I was still in grade school but from what I can see that was a great era for strong running diesels From what I can gather is that fuel companys blend diesel fuels slightly diffrent depending on the aera its to be sold in. i.e cold or warm avg temps etc... last year I filled up one of our work trucks in febuary and it never gelled up even when it sat in a very cold windy week. maybee just luck?? I heard a few speak of this low sulfer fuels that may be in circulation as of now??? EPA is cutting down on diesels big time. I think the next EPA regulation (for now) is 2006 then 2010. welcome to the new site Trent

hello and nice model you have. I also build models of diffrent macks in my spare time. I am not shure if the CH or CL models have made an apperance in 1/25 scale plastic/resin kits but there are lots of other models made by aftermarket companys. check spaulding trading and shiping for some cool truck models Trent

took some pics of the trucks in the yard where I work at on weekends (part time). The superliner has a V8 Mack with lots of chrome and twin air cleaners. good running truck but needs a rebuild soon as its getting weak. All the other R models and superdogs have 300Hp 6 clys Macks or 350HP cummings The Red RD is a 2000 glider kit Owned buy a good friend of my father. It is the nicest R model I have had the pleasure to drive. It has a Mech 300 with a 2 stick 6 speed. great for the city and can pretty much keep up with all the new high HP junk electronic engines. Trent

this is getting sad . Im posting tonight about problems getting parts for "newer "R,U DM etc.... I was at mack tonight looking for the black panels for the dash and had no luck as the parts guy tells me they are all obsolete parts besides the largest center panel. the black/charcoal interiors are also no longer made, I dont know whats going on with mack but it seams that after volvos take over, They are not intrested in keeping older truck parts in stock. I under stand that older trucks will have updated parts and my VIN number will show parts no longer made for a 78 RS mack. but why is it that I can go to my Mack dealers lot and take a vin number off a new RB and find that many parts are hard to locate or no loger made??? I just read fullfuels post and he is haveing simmilar problems with running gear. I hope that the aftermarket companys pick up if volvo does not want the market for "Newer" trucks Trent

looks like it was a sweet truck before the corrosion got to it. That trunion looks like it would tear off the frame under a hard pull LOL. Does the truck have any story behind it that you know?

Cool pics does that blue R model have an open top cab??? cant see it clearly I have a few pics of mack fire trucks from the old BMT site I will have to post them for you

"Its been a few years but I remember it like this" but thanks anyways for clearing it up