AZB755V8

The Time Machine is just sitting in the warehouse along with the parts truck i got with it. I think Carl had it sitting for a number of years as well. It does have low mileage, so it is dong what it does best sitting. There are several other project ahead of it but it will get restored. I got the engines and parts when I could so the issue is finding the time to start on it. That MH is a good looking rig. Keep after them to sell it.

I was thinking about this issue and it seems that all your failures are at the pump flares/ nuts. Some stainless will work harden and if the flares are mechanically flared the amount of "working the metal" stress can cause cracks that open over time with the constant pounding of pressure from the pump. Stainless sure looks nice but hydraulic seamless steel lines may work better, a little softer and more malleable. Another option is weld on the flares and draw it back by slow cooling it. Then when the lines are still straight turn the flare angle on a lathe. I did this with the set on my 866. I did have one line leak, over time, because there was porosity in one weld, rewelded around line and no more leak. Can you have someone Tig weld around the leaking line and sleeve just past the nut to seal the line?

E9 Engine dry about 3000lbs. Wet with trans 4200-4400lbs. By the way welcome to posting on the forum, see you have been around for several years.

A bad, fatigued spring does have some compression just installing it or a broken spring is only short a coil turn. That little bit of change in length and spring rate does make a larger difference in oil pressure as RPM and oil flow increase. So you will not see a difference in pressure at idle for the most part but pressure will not increase to 75-90PSI at operating speed. Don't forget there is a pressure spring that opens the piston cooling jets that can open early and compound the low pressure problems. Bad bearings will show low oil pressure at idle as well as operating RPM, that is the difference to tell what is wrong.

It is not that uncommon on the Mack V8's to break the pressure relieve spring. Also the springs fatigue and do loose tension over time. I have an 866 with total rebuild and shined the spring because I could not get one at that time. oil pressure is about 55-65 psi at 1500rpm's 15psi off from my E9's. I got a few rebuild kits from Dale Frances for the E9's and he said it is standard practice to replace the oil pump spring in his rebuilds. He has seen more than a few broke springs. I got a few springs off him for the oil pumps on rebuild. or when pressure suddenly drops.10 -15 psi. He even found the spring for the 866, so just have to pull the pan and put it in. Yes relief springs break and pressure does drop.

I have custom set of 120 lines on my 866. They had to be made as there is no more factory ones left and that was 20 years ago. The lines on an 866 are the same on both ends and I did have one line leak at an injector. The line cracked inside the flair and it was because of over torquing the nut and twisted the line just enough to stress crack it over time. Took it off and Tig welded it all around the flair and no more leak with lower nut torque, just enough to get it to seal. Clean looking engine!! nice work!

Got a set of these on my B model and they look Great. If they are still available I would be up for another set or better yet the right and left facing bulldog logo ones in green. Any one got a set of those?

When I lives in Ohio in the 1990's I was on the hunt for E9's and there are a few large truck salvage yards there. I could maybe get one or two of them at that time BUT every E9 these yards could get was put in containers and went to Australia for $5000 USD a piece back 25 years ago. The point is that most complete E9's that are from salvage yards are already on the boat coming your way. Most guys here are not going to pay $5000 for a core engine even now then $8-10K for parts plus labor to rebuild it. I am sure the current Australian price is more than the $5K per engine and the used truck parts trade to down under has been a very tight closed business for years. It can be expensive to get an engine that is already slated to come your way in the first place. Engines that are already out of the truck are not usually available and guarded for parts. Complete engines are around but usually still in trucks. 2 out of 3 MH Ultraliners had them for power and can be had for as low as a few thousand dollars on up. Start searching the web for them and figure how to get the engines out and in containers. Happy E9 hunting

Sorry to say that Magnum has been there for a few years. The photos that junkyard post are how it looked when it came in and not what it is now. There is not much left of it these days, just sad.

It is hard to find a good chrome shop with all the EPA reg's. There are two types of chrome the Tri-something and Hex. The Hex is the environment unfriendly one but is the "show chrome" and is the best. Good plating is a three step process, copper, nickel, chrome and it takes a lot of time as well. Ogden Chrome in Utah is who I used for my LTL chrome. not cheap, not out of line, but a Great job. I had my radiator shell show chromed for around $1000 and the bumper for $1000 plus other parts. They can do rust, dent repair and fill too. They do both standard chrome and show chrome depending on what you want and want to pay. My mirror brackets came back to me with stains from the final rinse and a crack in the plating and I sent them back. No questions asked and had them back in a few weeks and were perfect. I sent two NOS Gold Mack V8 emblems, for my B755, with the mirror brackets and they chromed them for free and look far better than "Mack new".

Sorry to hear of the trouble. Are you racing in the USA if english is not your first language? There is a lot more information needed to even get close to helping you. Fact is the deformed oil pan is from a broken rod, surprising there is no hole in the block. Blow by is piston, sleeve issues, could be to little oil or to much fuel, RPM's... Are you talking about E9, V8's. What condition were the engines in, oil pressure, what RPM is the governor set at,boost pressure, maybe staged turbos, how long at full throttle? What type of racing are you doing? Hope there are a few good spare engines to be had, parts are not that easy to come by and $$

Great purchase, nice truck with a lot of work done. We need to hear from BC Mack... There is more to this story, he was just posting the new air snorkel and talking of another turbo this past week. What happened, BC Mack, we just gotta know????

I was wondering were that LT went. It was for sale several years ago for $95K. Think it had a 275 iron lung Cummins in it too. Looks like it has all the right original stuff, defiantly a Great looking Old Dog!!

manual to electrionic speedo By superdog405, April 9 in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting Take a look at the last post when you go there and it should get your speedo working. Just try the sending unit wires, This was done the same way to my truck years ago. Post is located here on second page of this section, last date May 15.

The MH for sale is a strange one. 8 Lug buds are not a normal thing ether. Looks like it has the Canadian spread too. I have not seen that length of cab ether but have seen the short one as in the photo above. It maybe some type of Canadian Special Spec. Surely a one off or super low production unit.

To go to a street pull and have fun, take a stock E9 and try it for a season before you go all in. To make 1200-1500hp is not that hard to do with an E9. If you are planning on working the truck and pulling on the weekend is not a safe bet. It is like having a race care you drive on the street, there are many issues, some being emissions, insurance, reliability, DOT, to name a few. I have an E9 Superliner puller with 1500hp at the crank and over 1150hp at the wheels and know what I am talking about. In puller form it will not pull a loaded trailer without issues. If you want to give me $100K you can have it, there is over that in it... Even a "stock street" class is far from stock these days. The point is that there is much more that needs to be upgraded to handle the over stock torque and HP. The pulling rules have changed over the years not to mention the safety for yourself and the spectators. billet flywheel and clutch, trans blankets, drive shaft loops, etc all need to be in place to compete at an elevated level. It all cost a lot of money and even more to maintain it. The knowledge is not easy to come by to get everything to work right and other pullers are not going to tell you all the TRICKS. If you are serious about a puller talk to Dale Francis (Francis Engineering) out in Painsville, he is close to you in northeast Ohio. Dale has been building E9's and KTA's for years and has the parts and knowledge to get anything to really run good. He and Dick Bonner run the Mackimus Prime Superliners. He can get an engine together for you, HP and price have no limit at his place. Just don't waste his time and try picking his brain, if you do you will see what I mean.

I have an E9 that is turn up real well, actually I have backed it down a bit lately. It had 4 electric fans and no viscous fan on the engine. It worked well but put a good load on the alternator all the time. It was done for pulling to get the 50-75hp that a viscous fan would use at pulling RPM. The engine driven fan works and I have tried the original as well as a retrofit unit with fiberglass (plastic) blades. It is mandatory in most sled pulls to have plastic fan blades now a days. Make sure you have the big 4 core radiator and it is clean inside and straight and clear fins on the outside. Mike is running an Aluminum radiator but in all the engines I have, a copper core actually cools better. Heat transfer by the thermal numbers is greater for copper over aluminum. Yes, Aluminum for weight in a race car... is the way to go. The big thing is no matter what the power output 500 or 1000hp the easiest thing to control heat is backing off the throttle when the water temp and pyro get to high. I have only had to back-off a few times pulling a good grade loaded, but still passing anything and everything in sight. It will recover in 2-3 minutes then lay into it again!!! When you put a good load on the alternator, like with electric fans, with an E9 or spin it past 23-2500 RPM's the belt likes to flip in the pulleys. I always have a spare belt or two in the tool box. I am working on a two belt set-up to stop the belt roll.

I had a 1967 R700 that had that same color interior so that color is Mack original and correct. It had a steel dash cab but with the steering wheel on the right, I mean left side. Beautiful work and a gorgeous truck, something to be very proof of for sure, hope it look as good 5 years later

Before you do anything find someone that can work on it if you don't know anything. It is going to cost you and Good work requires Good pay. It is not hard to turn anything up to a point but parts will be braking and there is always something to fix or make better. Big parts cost big money as well then modifying them to work is an art in itself. Guys that don't know anything in any type of racing don't last long or need a lot on money to have someone that does know. Even if you are just doing a street class and expect to place or win, the competitors trucks have modifications, good luck, which is part of racing as well. IMHO

Believe the side louvered hood was only 3 years. 1950 is when I think they changed to the flat sides with the chrome , for sure 1951.

I have a few of the V8's and will have to check for this condition when they are pulled down. I don't think .002 from deck to sleeve counter bore is out of line, so to speak. Isn't it in the manual .002 is in spec for parallelism? That is a little thinker than a piece of hair (.0015). Think that is all that it is the counter bore. If you are thinking the whole sleeve bore is out that would mean that the piston is side stepping at least .006-.008 from top to bottom of the stroke and rod a lot further at the crankshaft. Your rod bearing would have to show signs of a strange wear pattern if this condition existed and I would think that rod and bearing failure would have happened long ago. I did not see that the deck was checked to flatness in all the post here. If the deck is not flat that would give you the .002 reading. There are not any engines that I have had bored that the deck was flat to begin with. Heat cycles and working stress do tweek blocks over time. Pulling a good flat head down on a not so flat block will pull the block flat. A side note: I had a 400 Chevy done up for a race car. I assemble my own engines and did a check on the machine work before putting it together. It was decked, bored and alien honed. The bores were out of round by a lot, almost .003 in two or three cylinders. I did tell them to deck it and do the rest of the work with deck plates and main caps torqued, which they did. I took the block right back to the machine shop and said they owe me another block. When they torqued the plates on the block every bore was dead nuts zero. I've run that engine to 9,000 rpm's a lot and it is still fine. The point is checking the block with no stress on it is not the same as when everything is torques to spec. Did Mack use deck plates when machining the blocks? If they did I would certainly leave it along and put it back together the way it is. Quality is a big issue with a lot of things, look at the reman Mack stuff anymore it is not what it use to be. The quality is just not there. Had a set of four reman head on an E9, went 16,000 miles and dropped a exhaust seat. It was a mess, piston, liner, head and turbo junk and out of warranty for time. The truck was not driven much, 16,000 in 7 years.

The thing you have to look out for is the clutch cable. The one on my truck is high were as "back in black's" cable is under the crossover tube if I recall. I could have the crossover tube up an inch or two and would help with a clearance problem with my turbo tube. I needed to recess the tube a bit to clear as in the photo. The cut-outs in the hood comes up to the molded fiberglass support then reinforced with a piece of 1/8 stainless plate. The side support/cover the intake runs though are made of 1/8 aluminum plate and bolted to the cowl edge and have a band-iron enforcement behind. the lights look good at night. These are 13 inch Vortex stainless cleaners which look good and work great. No real clearance issues with ether door. The side vents will be inoperable and behind the cleaner mounts. You have to extend the lower cab pins and hood mounts forward.

Everything said is spot on. That is exactly how mine is and it was Fab'ed up and looks good with the stainless cleaners. There are no parts at Mack for any of this anymore so make it up as you go. Get some good photos of the set-up and cut and piece the system together. Some cutting, fabrication and welding required. The outside air cleaner do give the Superliner a great look.

Sounds a little funny talking about Mack Butt, but I do think a little funny at times. So we are talking about the ass end of a Mack? Well I like my asses a little big and hanging out a little. Sort of like a Butty Butt on a nice woman. Never thought about the ass end of my Mack's Butt, but the 3 tractors I have all hang out there just the way Mack intended. Photos of nice Mack Butt (Tail) to follow if needed.....

Here is one in New York, not to far from you $8900 Looks like you could drive it home in a day. Make an offer of $8K and you will probably get it. https://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/6140856802.html