AZB755V8

Me, you and a dozen other Guys are looking for one, Good luck hunting!! Been looking for years for a a good one, hens teeth are easier to find. I even called Denver Truck in PA, years back, to see how much it would be to have one built like the one they did for Willard's E9-LTL. Priceless!!

See you have some LTL frame parts. My stanchions are good but would you have a front engine mount for a 275? Mine has a crack, second one in the truck, and I would rather fine a good one than try and weld this one. Also would you have the rear aluminum cab mount? I have an aluminum rear cab mount that was damaged the first time the front engine mount broke, and the engine dropped, tearing it up with the universal joint when the trans pivoted up and front of engine went down.

Sad that someone lost there life just being stupid for a split second, well a few seconds anyway. But come on how can a person be so caught in the moment to "Not See the Train Coming" let alone feel the vibration under his feet. Maybe the best, that is the person that is so focused on the cell phone screen that they would probably kill someone else a day later driving a car and videoing or texting. Think people are getting dumber and dumber with each generation, case in point. Life is not a video game, can't just press reset and start over. Feel Bad, No, he could have avoided the Train, the Train could not have avoid him. Had a guy jackknife my rig by nailing me behind the cab when I was moving in a left hand turn in the left hand lane last year. My big ass trailer is mirror stainless on the back with all LED lights, really hard to not see it even if the sun is not shining. 4 lane Hwy, He came up the left berm at 55 MPH, no one in the right lane for a mile. His cell phone was laying on the car floor when they pulled him out, Dumb Ass was discharged that night, truck was in the shop for 2 months. Can't Fix Stupid!!

Just trying to help with PS for those how need or wanted it. You are correct there were more truck produced into the mid 60's without power steer than with. That is when you could tell a trucker by the size of his forearm. Got a B with and an LT without. Choosing I'll drive the B over the LT any day. 👍

It can be as simple as the fuel return restrictor valve, back to the tank on side of pump, leaking down. This will drain the fuel from the pump galley. Easy way to tell is put a galley pressure gage in to a port or tee into supply line from charge pump, I have the gage in my dash now. After mine sits it will pop-off easily with 6 cyl then when galley pressure is above 5psi the others cylinders chime in. In the transfer pump there are 2 disk return check plates, usually a fiber disk with small spring, that can be worn and can leak fuel back to the tank that way too. Last thing if you have a hand primer on your transfer pump the shaft seal can be leaking air back in to system when truck sits a lot. It will leak air in as it is the highest point in the fuel system and not fuel out. I replaced the return valve and primer so last is the transfer pump. Once it takes more than a second for the engine to fire up and other cylinders to catch in 5-10 seconds.

If that is the price that turbo can be purchased new from a speed shop for that. Chances are the exhaust housing will need changed to work on a diesel. Checking on Jegs Speed Shops the housing are about $170. The reason for a change will be when you want to start making boost. The smaller the A/R number the lower the RPM's to spool the turbo. Other thing is the amount of boost, these turbos will make 50PSI Plus with no issues. Injectors and pump need to be worked on for flow and timing to balance the increase in air going though the engine. If you have emissions testing I would not do it. With added PSI everything else need to be looked at. It is not as simple as bolting a big PSI turbo on and go like hell. Head bolts, couplings and gaskets seem to snap or fail at elevated boost pressures.

Photo's or it does not exist, engine and truck, Please. PM me if Bob does not have the mat he started the post with. The contact I have for a NOS L Cab floormat sold one to me for my LTL. He may still be around and have one left.

No, I have not been to his yard. Been in AZ for 15 years and only back to PA for family and Macungie show a few time since. He is up for new and different things like that JD project. I made the aluminum fender panels for his black and red B75 that he used the radiator for the intercooler and put another radiator in back of for engine coolant. Can't remember if it was an intercooled Mack or Cummins engine. Think he sold that truck years ago.

I know Kevin All and a little on the steering box. When I was looking, some 15 years ago, to do the power steering change over I traded Kevin for some parts and knowledge. The box mounts in the same location as the original, have to drill frame for different mounting bolts. I got a power steering box from him to work with a 6cyl. engine, I have a V8 and this convention will not work for a V8, just no room. Besides mounting the new box the lower end of the steering column shaft need to be cut and a universal joint keyed to the shaft. A short splined shaft mounts on the box and mates with universal joint. Supply and return hydraulic lines need to be run to a pump and reservoir. I still think I have the power steering box from Kevin if anyone is interested. $200 plus the shipping. I'll go look for it if someone is interested. PM me.

Kenny, You are not starting off on BMT with a good note. First we all can read and Bold print is not necessary and is used rarely. As in this thread You must read and not ask if something is sold or where it is located as in another post if the truck is sold, sold ,sold.... especially back in August 2015 as stated here. We are here to help with anyone interested in knowing about Mack Trucks. Your second tip-off was your Frightliner, not misspelled so get with the program good buddy.👍

The Cobra body is polished aluminum with brushed strips. Same material as the original ones built in the 60's. Kirkham Motorsports in Utah has the bodies and frames roughed built in Poland. They then finish the rest here in the USA the customer has to supply the engine. Copper and Bronze bodies are options but way more money and 400lbs plus heavier. This car is a little over weight with that engine at 2600lbs. Fuel adds 270 more plus me. It ends up about 3lbs per HP for power to weight ratio.

No damp roads here but oil at intersections is a big issue. If it rains it is like ice starting and STOPPING. Yes, a Cobra can get out of hand in a split second, that is what makes them fun and a hand full in any configuration. Not for the faint of heart to be behind the wheel. Have had people (women) screaming from first gear on and getting out with a smile on their faces and shaking, no wet seat yet but said close! That was after having them strapped in with a racing harness. This all under 75MPH and in third gear of course.

RR has alway been Adequate in every way, maybe some day I'll drive one, maybe never own one. No.... HP Rated "Just About Enough" and detuned at that, down to about 1000HP at the crank. There are but VERY few places to crack it open due to street conditions, like the boys in blue, without drawing BIG attention. I got a CDL to worry about too. License Plate reads "Venomis" Misspelled but we only have 7 digits to work with in AZ. Funny but no one can USE that kind of HP in the car or truck that was 1000HP at crank or to the wheels. BUT it is nice to know that it is there if ever needed.... 👍

Not a stock 500. This was a sled puller from Wisconsin back about ten years ago known as Thunderdog. The modes were done by Steve Trevetz the V8 Mack Engineer and the inline pump and injector work was at Antrum Diesel. Was wheel Dyno'd in Wisconsin once all together. Dyno quit reading at 1158hp with more to go. Ya, 1200hp was an understatement. I have a smaller turbo, still makes 65psi but at lower RPM's, on it now as it just would not pull a trailer and always "under the turbo" at cruise speed. The silver box in the top right corner is an added Liquid to air inter-cooler, after the air to air, that really helps for short periods. Flows 1.25 gallons a second of ice water for about 15 seconds then ice is gone in a 20 gallon tank in back locker. It does need a huge clutch and Rockwell lockers to hook-up!! It is a 93-94 Black CL700 motor with the factory chrome valve covers.

No custom bunk yet but still planned. The Superliner still has the custom aluminum and stainless locker on it. I got sidetracked for a few years, on my Cobra project. Think I need it more than a bunk, not ready to lay down a lot just yet. This is the Cobra, Yes that is an all aluminum 860 cu/in V-12 that was used in a boat. Stock 1150hp /1200ft/lbs and gets 3.5MPG just driving normal!! It is detuned to actually drive it on the street. Those tires are vintage correct but are no longer on it and 13" wide road race tires are used for traction.

Dirty old hood just sitting around needing a cleaning bad. Waiting for temp to cool down in a month or so, to get out and blow a little smoke, about 110* today.

Went for $8350 on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Mack-Superliner-700-Series-E9-16-4L-10-Speed-Manual-24-5-Air-Ride/323309062517?hash=item4b46b8c975:g:UNMAAOSwkSxbKWbW No affiliation but just went up on Ebay a day ago. Current price $5800. Looks like a restoration project with all the good stuff. E9, Air Ride, Right flat top sleeper.

Yes, the B755 emblems as stated above are original. There are B models with 4 digit hood emblems, but very rare. The 3rd digit is an engine designation, turbo, engine manufacture,V8, gas, diesel, etc. The 4th digit in rare occasion is a 6 for a drive axel option, I think. Most models only have a 2 digit emblem but as with my B755 there are the 3 digit emblems. A list of all B model numbers can be found in the back of Mack Model B books by Thomas E. Warth. Thanks to All for liking the trucks, It took a lot of time, parts hunting, money and donor trucks to get them to better than new condition as seen here. 😀

The engine in the LTL is the big brother to a 275 iron lung. A 320 with added piston cooling and tuned up PT pump out of a pan scraper, notice the auxiliary double groove pulley in front of the blower, not normal in a truck. Added the Jake on top in green. If noticed on the interior photo this truck is a 3 stick. Duplex into a 3 speed Brownie, no shortage of gears here. It will cruise at 2100rpm@65mph even with the optional high speed 5.77 ratio rears as spec for 1953. Tops out at 72mph. Yes it sounds like a 275 but after 1500 RPM's, great burpie idle too. A little smoother cam than a 275 but more power.

This is the 1965 B755 repowered with a 375hp 866

A few of the 1953LTL With ALL the aluminum parts in tack.

These hoods haven't been out in the daylight for a while. Just getting a thicker layer of dessert dust, maybe have them out this fall.

Most diesel turbos do not have oil seals. Most gasoline engines do have turbo oils seals. This is due to the the difference in operation principle. Diesels have no throttle butterfly to reduce air flow into the engine and basically run maximum airflow at all times. There is very little vacuum or negative pressure in the intake or turbo at idle. This negative pressure or vacuum will draw oil out of a non sealed turbo and be used as fuel in a diesel. Oil will enter the intake if the oil retune is blocked or the shaft or bearings are worn beyond limits. This is known as a run away, for two reasons, the engine will not stop until the air flow is cut off and run at catastrophic RPM's. Secondly you better run away as flying parts are eminent. There can be a small amount of pressurized turbo air that can enter the turbo housing and return to the crack case thought the oil return. This would only happen when the turbo was creating boost. The higher the boost the more air to the crack case. In a gas engine there is 13-14psi of negative pressure at idle and that would suck oil from a non sealed turbo shaft. Different from a diesel that if oil is sucked into the intake it would foul spark plugs and airflow can be reduced by the throttle butterfly and the engine will stop. One other issue, there can be a small amount of pressurized air entering the crank case though worn valve guides, both intake and exhaust, but this again would be when the turbo was adding boost to the engine and not at idle.

Blow by is caused by an increase in crankcase pressure that is over atmospheric pressure. The only way to increase the crankcase pressure is by adding more (air) and having it escape out the breather or vent tube due to the pressure differential. The seal between the top of the piston (compression side) and the crankcase are the rings and cylinder walls. Scorched or scored walls or worn rings compromises the seal and the result is blow by. Even in some rebuilds the engine will have blow by and after break in decrease as parts seat or wear in. The white or light gray smoke at start up is normally from valve guide seals. Oil leaked down the valve steam during engine shut down and dripped down onto the piston and is burt off in the first minute or so after start up. It is incomplete combustion of the oil and fuel in the cylinders this is more noticeable at first start in cold weather. Until the engine builds a little heat the white smoke will remain, this is from fuel not oil from valve stem seals after the first minute of operation.