AZB755V8

Just from what you are saying before and now, it is difficult to help you. Is it still smoking as much after the exhaust leak fix? If someone has been messing with the pump it is anyone's guess on fueling and how hot it was run and for how long. Blow by is due to bad piston rings and, or pistons mainly so the engine may be loose to begin with and needs a lot of work. Blow by is not due to a bad valve. I asked the idle RPM and you say it has a smooth idle. The differences between a cylinder out is 50RPM at idle. It will be a smooth idle even running on 7 of 8 cylinders. Who knows what was done to the truck when a dead man can't talk? There are just not that many guys around any more that know much about these E9's as they stopped making them 20 years ago. My local Mack dealer doesn't even have a Tech to work on an E9, don't think there is one in the entire state. I am the only guy to get parts for one in the last 10 years from Mack in Phoenix.

Grand Rock, Second that. Believe they are based in Ohio. They did not have exactly what I needed and custom made the elbow with turnout, then chromed it. Not the cheapest but have not gotten China crap from them ether. They have or can make about anything and have good customer service. All came wrapped to protect from damaging the finish. 👍

First check the air filter to see if clean. Does the truck have a boost gage? If not get a mechanical pressure gage up to 30-45psi from the hardware or part store and plumb it into one of several ports on the intake manifolds. At 1200-1800RPM's with a load on the pressure should be 15-18psi. E9's normally do not have more boost than that. If it does not get that high then check for intercooler leaks as stated before. If that checks OK them it is the turbo, head and piston or all three. There can be a cylinder or 2 out before these engines really start to vibrate above 1200RPM's or so. I can say from experience that what you are describing an exhaust valve seat dropped and got chewed up. It is more common with the E9's than in most engines. The exhaust seats do not have a good press fit from the factory or Mack reman, and if run a little hot have a tendency to fall out. I went to the Macungie show a few years ago and dropped a valve seat 2000 miles from Phoenix AZ and drove it that way, home, smokin, low on power, waisted turbo from the seat pieces going through it. Still passing everything is sight and smokin out all along the way. That engine had reman heads with 18,000 miles on them. If that all checks OK then start looking at the fuel pump and injectors. Why did the the guy say he was selling the truck? How many miles on it or the rebuild? What is the idle RPM? Should be 650.

I have a NOS set of B cab door glass in the mack box from Tidewater back in the day , no vent. PM me if interested. Edit: Found the box and there is the two piece tinted windshield for a B Cab in the box. No side windows, anyone need new front glass shoot me a PM offer.

Yes the engine emblem is only on the drivers side on any RW that I have seen including mine. The Mack script and Superliner emblems are on both sides. The RW hood is drilled and counter bored through the secondary fiberglass support on the inside of the hood but only on the drivers side. I got 2 new Econodyne, as an E9-500 is an Econodyne engine, emblems to put one on each side when repainted but will only use one as I suppose Mack always intended. The hard to find NOS V8 emblem, in chrome, will however be on both sides but were not original to a 1988 RW. Might have been a sin but I had 2 NOS Gold V8 emblems show chromed for the RW. If I remember right the Gold V8 and Dog emblems were for Maxidyne engines originally. Later for the Elite package. Also remember when those V8 emblems were $65 for chrome and $95 for Gold from Mack back around 1995 and I thought that was crazy.

Yah, those old Superliners have a tendency to just pass you and keep on going. Have to be spot on to get a good photo shot of them most of the time. Took my 19 year old son on a 2600 mile round trip in mine last year. Just to get the truck and him out of the house and garage for a while. Funniest thing he said when we were heading up through Washington, Dad, you seem to be passing everything in sight, I said this old truck has a tendency to do that, but Dad you are passing even cars going up the mountains....

Scott, Sort of a loaded question,what yall think? Don't know anything other than a call on your dad's truck. You looking to buy it back or taking offers on selling it? We can comment but just what are you talking about, Make, model, year, condition all matter. Is it price that you are asking about? If you are looking for or parting with a family money maker that has a history with you and Dad, it would be hard to ask, what is it worth. It is worth what you are willing to pay or let it go for. History is hard to put a dollar amount on and sometimes priceless.....

It sounds like you may have a zoning challenge from all the post. Boy that Village has a hard-on for a hobbyist like yourself. Glad you got plates for both truck and trailer. I can only speak for Arizona and some highway law. Even with collector and vanity plates here I have a weight sticker and pay for weight on both truck and trailer. No collector plates for over 10,000GWV no matter what. I have a permanent tag on the trailer that is only issued for under 10,000 GVW, the trailer is 9,600 empty. The remainder of the weight is on the tractor. That yearly sticker is not cheap for 80,000GVW combined. When I load the other trucks on the deck I still have to deal with weight and state to state issues. Even my Semi Tractors that will never pull a trailer again still have to have proper weight of the unloaded tractor on the registration card. Anything over 10,000LBS here must have weight on the registration to put them on the road. Check this out before you think all is good and clear with your plates and registration. States fines can be pricey. Proof of collector insurance on the truck and trailer helps in proving non-commercial use as well even with weight. Other thing, make sure you have "Privet Use Only" and "Not For Hire" in large letters on the cab. It saves a lot of time when you get stopped or go though the scales. Weight still counts though.

You can get double the hp and torque out of an E9 if you drive it like is your own. I don't know if there is anyone down under that knows what to do. First thing would be search for someone that turns up E9's. If it is an all mechanical engine more fuel and boost is all that is needed. Increasing the RPM's and timing advance will help too. Turn up fuel in stock pump, increase RPM's by 500 or so. This will have to be done at a fuel pump shop. Advance time to no more than 19* BTDC. Emissions will not pass. Replace turbo with BW400S/78mm turbo for up to 800HP at wheels, best choice, or BW500S/92mm for up to 1200HP. That high is unusable or practical for daily use. This is not constant power but realistically 650-700HP can be usable for a while. Engine life will be a factor and accelerated if abused. Smaller BW400s will start to spool, build boost, at 1100-1200RPM not 800RPM as stock. Most important 4000 plus pound clutch and upgrade drivetrain (stock will break).

Same deal as Hobart62, I started to build my house and need a drive to get to it. Go to town hall, they say you got a drawing were it is going? OK better get to it that's a $5 fee neighbor. The town clerk was my neighbor. I had it really good as it looks. Never had an issue with parking ANYTHING on my property in Ohio, in Cuyahoga County. I was always grandfathered in from the early 80's when the township did not even have a plow truck garage. My other neighbor was the town maintenance manager and had the town trucks parked at his house on 1 acre. The mayor live 4 house down the street.. so it was a small community and everyone knew everyone. Most had a truck, backhoes, bulldozes, skid steers, flatbed, etc. there but just out of sight and it was all OK for years. A neighbor was a neighbor and would help each other with any of the equipment they had for a beer or two. I had my trucks and equipment there for 20 years and no issues. All was usable or completed no junk sitting around. Today is a different story, it is a "City", I had to get a permit to park my rig there over night the last two times when visiting and going thought to Macungie. Funny only place to park the rig, as my old house is rented, was in front of the mayor's house. No issue but had to have a permit, still small town "City" with conditions now. I now just keep my stuff in a building, out of sight, out of the weather and out of mind. I don't what to have people know what I have or what I am doing, just better that way. The point is that anything can be OK if people would mine their own business and stop trying to controls others if it is not hurting anything or anybody. If they don't know what you got how can they complain? Shouldn't have to have insurance or plates on anything in a building or garage no matter what it is. It is not road worthy until it is on a road!! I have trucks, cars, motorcycles that haven't been in the light of day for 25 years with no plates or insurance, just saying. If it fits no one should be able to tell you what you can store in your own building or land!!

"Any thoughts" There is nothing wrong with a good running E9-500 and a 15spd. Is there something wrong with your left foot and right hand. The only thing I can think of to do all that work for Allison conversion is to get out of shifting. Should be an RTO for a 15spd and they almost fall into each gear. As for twin turbos, take and run it as is. Being a Parts Runner and mostly unloaded there is more than enough power and fun to spare. No one is going to do turbo and fuel work for you these days but a very few for good money if at all. A bigger single turbo, raised RPMs, timing, clutch and stuff that goes along with it is more than most guys can handle or drive train for that matter. If more than one driver is going to drive it don't even consider modifications. You will be running for more parts to fix it than you want. Emissions is not going to pass if that is a concern with added fuel and boost. Leave it alone and just keep it running and shifting right. You and it don't have anything to prove on the road. Don't think you will be able to sell it, when it is time, with and Allison and engine mods but only for a "play truck". I have a Superliner and 18spd that was turned up good and have been turning it down little by little ever sense. Just my thoughts,

There are two issues that you may have being major engine work was done a short mileage ago but 26 years ago. The first is that the baffle was not put back into the valley to keep oil from going out the breather tube. That would be an EZ fix. Provided there is not a lot of blow-by that can be the problem as well. There should be very little air/vapor coming out of the tube in the first place with a "new" engine. If there is a lot of blow-by it can only be one thing, piston rings and possible liners. But a lot can happen in 26 years of basically sitting around. Is oil fresh? Good oil pressure? Is power good? Need some more information to narrow it down.

Only place I have seen an E9 with Allison is a few semi sled pulling trucks in Ohio. The Sanders Pulling Trucks ran them. Talked to one guy that had an Allison, pulled it out and put an 18spd back in. I was interested in the trans for drag racing but no deal so it is still sitting somewhere. I don't think there was an Allison option for an E9 from Mack.

It happens too all of us and it sucks. Just fix it and move on. By the way looks real nice else wise.

Sounds like boat ride material, truck just has to run, new poster, no Thanks, Good Luck Fishin.

Any pressure will take a percentage of the load off the leaf springs. The more pressure raises the ride height Or if a load was on compensate for the reduced loaded hight. I am using the 110psi to get a ride height to clear the fender flares. It can works like rear airride, the more air the more load you can put on and maintain a ride height. Just thinking a ride height valve can be used on the front axle like on the rear to self level.

No there is still about 2-3 inches of travel on the the shocks that were on it. The air bags are rated for around 3200 pounds each and only help the leaf spring. This raises the height about 2 1/2 with 110 lbs of air. There is a lot of difference in front end height if you look at different Superliners. There is more than one shock length made for the RW but these ones work fine. You can see the difference in height on the shock paint in the photos. There was no adjustment in the steering linkage to center the steering wheel ether.

I have not seen anyone doing this here at BMT but it worked out really well for me. I needed a little more clearance for Floats on the front of the Superliner for fender clearance. I have Australian fender flairs on it and they decrease the fender opening about an inch all around. First was tiring to find springs to increase the height about 2 1/2 inches or so and not just add a block that would not give me more suspension travel. Or extra leaves that would make it "ride like a Mack truck" even more so. Ether way it was the dollars that it would cost to do the work. Most spring shops said that they had to have the truck to even start with. There are no spring shops in Arizona that would even consider doing what I wanted. This is what I came up with for a few hundred $$ The ride height can be adjusted from side to side if separate air is supplied to each, nice to get the front end perfectly level. I did see the systems offered for around $1000 but none were for a RW that I saw. This cost $180 for the bags, $14 for steel and bolts, $20 for air fittings and hose, $4 for paint, 3 hours time to do 5 with the beer break... I need to make a shim and add a little clearance for the draglink bolt.

Think another member here got it. He just said he found a 72 R700 for $900 so assume he got it, right Mike Glad it is in good hands and another Dog save from the crusher or boat ride.

That non intercooled engine is one of the few that I have seen, Very Cool. If I had one it would be in my B model instead of an 866. Is there an accurate count of the late E9 production? Looking at the .doc and there are fare less E9's than actually built. There were approx. 15000 MH's built with 2/3 of them having E9's. That is approx. 10,000 in Cabovers alone plus all the other applications. How many RW and CL's where built with them in the USA and Australia? I can not find the actual numbers but would really like to know. There are the marine and military variants as well as DM's. There were many more than 3768 E9's and variants built between 81- 99, if so that would come out to 210 engines a year. I thought I saw something like 15,000 of them in that time span. Is there any information on the number of E9's with inline pumps built opposed to the V pump.

Got a good set of the tinted plastic vert shades off a Superliner. Just need to retape them and stick them on. Should work but I didn't like them as it covered up the top of the window and restricted the view. PM me and I can get you a photo if interested. Hood letters are in two sizes and are on Ebay regularly at OK price.

Can't say that timing to the wrong marks would not make a difference in performance and a lot of valve noise. But the fact is that not to many shops even Mack shops have a guy that knows these engines any more. In Az the Mack shop hasn't have an E9 in for service in the last ten years. The only way mine are running is I do the work. Valve timing is not that hard just follow the manual, set the bridge then set the rocker clearance. It is just one more step from setting valves in a Chevy, Ford or Hemi for that matter. Just remember cylinder numberings is like a Ford. The Dynatard engine brake is just there to make a little noise and not much of anything else. What are you getting for fuel milage? I am around 5.5-6.0 MPG under 70MPH@1500RPM's or about 4 loaded running 75 MPH@1650RPM's and keeps dropping for every mile faster, just a ballpark range. These E9's can drink with the best of them if the hammer is down. Bobtailing 7.2 and having a blast up to 75 MPH. Power to spare but at the cost of fuel mileage.

Knew it was a bird of some kind, Goose, Swan, Duck... Decent Reproduction piece but does need to be hand fit, reworked.

I restored my LTL about 2-3 years ago and gave $700 for a NOS L cab mat. The man had 2 of them and a lot of other perfect or NOS parts. Not cheap but.... I think the last R and B cab mats I got were over $200 from Mack when they had them. $200 for any NOS mat is a deal. Consider the time and care it took for years to still have a usable NOS part. Triple or more the original price would be the starting point just to break even. As for patterns even an old mat can be used for patterns. To go on I sold the good old headliner kit after my restoration for $200. That was a fraction of the $800 plus shipping I paid Lancaster Upholstery for a new one when they still made them. By the way the man had a few sets of Goose Island hoods for LT's for $1200 a set. Never mounted on truck. His name was Glen.

I would assume that E9 is the one 998in3 just got and needs to pick up? That engine needs work if I recall but complete. I made a stand out of angle iron and plate to bolt onto a completed E9. I have used it to transport several V8's in the bed of F-250-350 with no problems.