AZB755V8

RR has alway been Adequate in every way, maybe some day I'll drive one, maybe never own one. No.... HP Rated "Just About Enough" and detuned at that, down to about 1000HP at the crank. There are but VERY few places to crack it open due to street conditions, like the boys in blue, without drawing BIG attention. I got a CDL to worry about too. License Plate reads "Venomis" Misspelled but we only have 7 digits to work with in AZ. Funny but no one can USE that kind of HP in the car or truck that was 1000HP at crank or to the wheels. BUT it is nice to know that it is there if ever needed.... 👍

Not a stock 500. This was a sled puller from Wisconsin back about ten years ago known as Thunderdog. The modes were done by Steve Trevetz the V8 Mack Engineer and the inline pump and injector work was at Antrum Diesel. Was wheel Dyno'd in Wisconsin once all together. Dyno quit reading at 1158hp with more to go. Ya, 1200hp was an understatement. I have a smaller turbo, still makes 65psi but at lower RPM's, on it now as it just would not pull a trailer and always "under the turbo" at cruise speed. The silver box in the top right corner is an added Liquid to air inter-cooler, after the air to air, that really helps for short periods. Flows 1.25 gallons a second of ice water for about 15 seconds then ice is gone in a 20 gallon tank in back locker. It does need a huge clutch and Rockwell lockers to hook-up!! It is a 93-94 Black CL700 motor with the factory chrome valve covers.

No custom bunk yet but still planned. The Superliner still has the custom aluminum and stainless locker on it. I got sidetracked for a few years, on my Cobra project. Think I need it more than a bunk, not ready to lay down a lot just yet. This is the Cobra, Yes that is an all aluminum 860 cu/in V-12 that was used in a boat. Stock 1150hp /1200ft/lbs and gets 3.5MPG just driving normal!! It is detuned to actually drive it on the street. Those tires are vintage correct but are no longer on it and 13" wide road race tires are used for traction.

Dirty old hood just sitting around needing a cleaning bad. Waiting for temp to cool down in a month or so, to get out and blow a little smoke, about 110* today.

Went for $8350 on Ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Mack-Superliner-700-Series-E9-16-4L-10-Speed-Manual-24-5-Air-Ride/323309062517?hash=item4b46b8c975:g:UNMAAOSwkSxbKWbW No affiliation but just went up on Ebay a day ago. Current price $5800. Looks like a restoration project with all the good stuff. E9, Air Ride, Right flat top sleeper.

Yes, the B755 emblems as stated above are original. There are B models with 4 digit hood emblems, but very rare. The 3rd digit is an engine designation, turbo, engine manufacture,V8, gas, diesel, etc. The 4th digit in rare occasion is a 6 for a drive axel option, I think. Most models only have a 2 digit emblem but as with my B755 there are the 3 digit emblems. A list of all B model numbers can be found in the back of Mack Model B books by Thomas E. Warth. Thanks to All for liking the trucks, It took a lot of time, parts hunting, money and donor trucks to get them to better than new condition as seen here. 😀

The engine in the LTL is the big brother to a 275 iron lung. A 320 with added piston cooling and tuned up PT pump out of a pan scraper, notice the auxiliary double groove pulley in front of the blower, not normal in a truck. Added the Jake on top in green. If noticed on the interior photo this truck is a 3 stick. Duplex into a 3 speed Brownie, no shortage of gears here. It will cruise at 2100rpm@65mph even with the optional high speed 5.77 ratio rears as spec for 1953. Tops out at 72mph. Yes it sounds like a 275 but after 1500 RPM's, great burpie idle too. A little smoother cam than a 275 but more power.

This is the 1965 B755 repowered with a 375hp 866

A few of the 1953LTL With ALL the aluminum parts in tack.

These hoods haven't been out in the daylight for a while. Just getting a thicker layer of dessert dust, maybe have them out this fall.

Most diesel turbos do not have oil seals. Most gasoline engines do have turbo oils seals. This is due to the the difference in operation principle. Diesels have no throttle butterfly to reduce air flow into the engine and basically run maximum airflow at all times. There is very little vacuum or negative pressure in the intake or turbo at idle. This negative pressure or vacuum will draw oil out of a non sealed turbo and be used as fuel in a diesel. Oil will enter the intake if the oil retune is blocked or the shaft or bearings are worn beyond limits. This is known as a run away, for two reasons, the engine will not stop until the air flow is cut off and run at catastrophic RPM's. Secondly you better run away as flying parts are eminent. There can be a small amount of pressurized turbo air that can enter the turbo housing and return to the crack case thought the oil return. This would only happen when the turbo was creating boost. The higher the boost the more air to the crack case. In a gas engine there is 13-14psi of negative pressure at idle and that would suck oil from a non sealed turbo shaft. Different from a diesel that if oil is sucked into the intake it would foul spark plugs and airflow can be reduced by the throttle butterfly and the engine will stop. One other issue, there can be a small amount of pressurized air entering the crank case though worn valve guides, both intake and exhaust, but this again would be when the turbo was adding boost to the engine and not at idle.

Blow by is caused by an increase in crankcase pressure that is over atmospheric pressure. The only way to increase the crankcase pressure is by adding more (air) and having it escape out the breather or vent tube due to the pressure differential. The seal between the top of the piston (compression side) and the crankcase are the rings and cylinder walls. Scorched or scored walls or worn rings compromises the seal and the result is blow by. Even in some rebuilds the engine will have blow by and after break in decrease as parts seat or wear in. The white or light gray smoke at start up is normally from valve guide seals. Oil leaked down the valve steam during engine shut down and dripped down onto the piston and is burt off in the first minute or so after start up. It is incomplete combustion of the oil and fuel in the cylinders this is more noticeable at first start in cold weather. Until the engine builds a little heat the white smoke will remain, this is from fuel not oil from valve stem seals after the first minute of operation.

Just from what you are saying before and now, it is difficult to help you. Is it still smoking as much after the exhaust leak fix? If someone has been messing with the pump it is anyone's guess on fueling and how hot it was run and for how long. Blow by is due to bad piston rings and, or pistons mainly so the engine may be loose to begin with and needs a lot of work. Blow by is not due to a bad valve. I asked the idle RPM and you say it has a smooth idle. The differences between a cylinder out is 50RPM at idle. It will be a smooth idle even running on 7 of 8 cylinders. Who knows what was done to the truck when a dead man can't talk? There are just not that many guys around any more that know much about these E9's as they stopped making them 20 years ago. My local Mack dealer doesn't even have a Tech to work on an E9, don't think there is one in the entire state. I am the only guy to get parts for one in the last 10 years from Mack in Phoenix.

Grand Rock, Second that. Believe they are based in Ohio. They did not have exactly what I needed and custom made the elbow with turnout, then chromed it. Not the cheapest but have not gotten China crap from them ether. They have or can make about anything and have good customer service. All came wrapped to protect from damaging the finish. 👍

First check the air filter to see if clean. Does the truck have a boost gage? If not get a mechanical pressure gage up to 30-45psi from the hardware or part store and plumb it into one of several ports on the intake manifolds. At 1200-1800RPM's with a load on the pressure should be 15-18psi. E9's normally do not have more boost than that. If it does not get that high then check for intercooler leaks as stated before. If that checks OK them it is the turbo, head and piston or all three. There can be a cylinder or 2 out before these engines really start to vibrate above 1200RPM's or so. I can say from experience that what you are describing an exhaust valve seat dropped and got chewed up. It is more common with the E9's than in most engines. The exhaust seats do not have a good press fit from the factory or Mack reman, and if run a little hot have a tendency to fall out. I went to the Macungie show a few years ago and dropped a valve seat 2000 miles from Phoenix AZ and drove it that way, home, smokin, low on power, waisted turbo from the seat pieces going through it. Still passing everything is sight and smokin out all along the way. That engine had reman heads with 18,000 miles on them. If that all checks OK then start looking at the fuel pump and injectors. Why did the the guy say he was selling the truck? How many miles on it or the rebuild? What is the idle RPM? Should be 650.

I have a NOS set of B cab door glass in the mack box from Tidewater back in the day , no vent. PM me if interested. Edit: Found the box and there is the two piece tinted windshield for a B Cab in the box. No side windows, anyone need new front glass shoot me a PM offer.

Yes the engine emblem is only on the drivers side on any RW that I have seen including mine. The Mack script and Superliner emblems are on both sides. The RW hood is drilled and counter bored through the secondary fiberglass support on the inside of the hood but only on the drivers side. I got 2 new Econodyne, as an E9-500 is an Econodyne engine, emblems to put one on each side when repainted but will only use one as I suppose Mack always intended. The hard to find NOS V8 emblem, in chrome, will however be on both sides but were not original to a 1988 RW. Might have been a sin but I had 2 NOS Gold V8 emblems show chromed for the RW. If I remember right the Gold V8 and Dog emblems were for Maxidyne engines originally. Later for the Elite package. Also remember when those V8 emblems were $65 for chrome and $95 for Gold from Mack back around 1995 and I thought that was crazy.

Yah, those old Superliners have a tendency to just pass you and keep on going. Have to be spot on to get a good photo shot of them most of the time. Took my 19 year old son on a 2600 mile round trip in mine last year. Just to get the truck and him out of the house and garage for a while. Funniest thing he said when we were heading up through Washington, Dad, you seem to be passing everything in sight, I said this old truck has a tendency to do that, but Dad you are passing even cars going up the mountains....

Scott, Sort of a loaded question,what yall think? Don't know anything other than a call on your dad's truck. You looking to buy it back or taking offers on selling it? We can comment but just what are you talking about, Make, model, year, condition all matter. Is it price that you are asking about? If you are looking for or parting with a family money maker that has a history with you and Dad, it would be hard to ask, what is it worth. It is worth what you are willing to pay or let it go for. History is hard to put a dollar amount on and sometimes priceless.....

It sounds like you may have a zoning challenge from all the post. Boy that Village has a hard-on for a hobbyist like yourself. Glad you got plates for both truck and trailer. I can only speak for Arizona and some highway law. Even with collector and vanity plates here I have a weight sticker and pay for weight on both truck and trailer. No collector plates for over 10,000GWV no matter what. I have a permanent tag on the trailer that is only issued for under 10,000 GVW, the trailer is 9,600 empty. The remainder of the weight is on the tractor. That yearly sticker is not cheap for 80,000GVW combined. When I load the other trucks on the deck I still have to deal with weight and state to state issues. Even my Semi Tractors that will never pull a trailer again still have to have proper weight of the unloaded tractor on the registration card. Anything over 10,000LBS here must have weight on the registration to put them on the road. Check this out before you think all is good and clear with your plates and registration. States fines can be pricey. Proof of collector insurance on the truck and trailer helps in proving non-commercial use as well even with weight. Other thing, make sure you have "Privet Use Only" and "Not For Hire" in large letters on the cab. It saves a lot of time when you get stopped or go though the scales. Weight still counts though.

You can get double the hp and torque out of an E9 if you drive it like is your own. I don't know if there is anyone down under that knows what to do. First thing would be search for someone that turns up E9's. If it is an all mechanical engine more fuel and boost is all that is needed. Increasing the RPM's and timing advance will help too. Turn up fuel in stock pump, increase RPM's by 500 or so. This will have to be done at a fuel pump shop. Advance time to no more than 19* BTDC. Emissions will not pass. Replace turbo with BW400S/78mm turbo for up to 800HP at wheels, best choice, or BW500S/92mm for up to 1200HP. That high is unusable or practical for daily use. This is not constant power but realistically 650-700HP can be usable for a while. Engine life will be a factor and accelerated if abused. Smaller BW400s will start to spool, build boost, at 1100-1200RPM not 800RPM as stock. Most important 4000 plus pound clutch and upgrade drivetrain (stock will break).

Same deal as Hobart62, I started to build my house and need a drive to get to it. Go to town hall, they say you got a drawing were it is going? OK better get to it that's a $5 fee neighbor. The town clerk was my neighbor. I had it really good as it looks. Never had an issue with parking ANYTHING on my property in Ohio, in Cuyahoga County. I was always grandfathered in from the early 80's when the township did not even have a plow truck garage. My other neighbor was the town maintenance manager and had the town trucks parked at his house on 1 acre. The mayor live 4 house down the street.. so it was a small community and everyone knew everyone. Most had a truck, backhoes, bulldozes, skid steers, flatbed, etc. there but just out of sight and it was all OK for years. A neighbor was a neighbor and would help each other with any of the equipment they had for a beer or two. I had my trucks and equipment there for 20 years and no issues. All was usable or completed no junk sitting around. Today is a different story, it is a "City", I had to get a permit to park my rig there over night the last two times when visiting and going thought to Macungie. Funny only place to park the rig, as my old house is rented, was in front of the mayor's house. No issue but had to have a permit, still small town "City" with conditions now. I now just keep my stuff in a building, out of sight, out of the weather and out of mind. I don't what to have people know what I have or what I am doing, just better that way. The point is that anything can be OK if people would mine their own business and stop trying to controls others if it is not hurting anything or anybody. If they don't know what you got how can they complain? Shouldn't have to have insurance or plates on anything in a building or garage no matter what it is. It is not road worthy until it is on a road!! I have trucks, cars, motorcycles that haven't been in the light of day for 25 years with no plates or insurance, just saying. If it fits no one should be able to tell you what you can store in your own building or land!!

"Any thoughts" There is nothing wrong with a good running E9-500 and a 15spd. Is there something wrong with your left foot and right hand. The only thing I can think of to do all that work for Allison conversion is to get out of shifting. Should be an RTO for a 15spd and they almost fall into each gear. As for twin turbos, take and run it as is. Being a Parts Runner and mostly unloaded there is more than enough power and fun to spare. No one is going to do turbo and fuel work for you these days but a very few for good money if at all. A bigger single turbo, raised RPMs, timing, clutch and stuff that goes along with it is more than most guys can handle or drive train for that matter. If more than one driver is going to drive it don't even consider modifications. You will be running for more parts to fix it than you want. Emissions is not going to pass if that is a concern with added fuel and boost. Leave it alone and just keep it running and shifting right. You and it don't have anything to prove on the road. Don't think you will be able to sell it, when it is time, with and Allison and engine mods but only for a "play truck". I have a Superliner and 18spd that was turned up good and have been turning it down little by little ever sense. Just my thoughts,

There are two issues that you may have being major engine work was done a short mileage ago but 26 years ago. The first is that the baffle was not put back into the valley to keep oil from going out the breather tube. That would be an EZ fix. Provided there is not a lot of blow-by that can be the problem as well. There should be very little air/vapor coming out of the tube in the first place with a "new" engine. If there is a lot of blow-by it can only be one thing, piston rings and possible liners. But a lot can happen in 26 years of basically sitting around. Is oil fresh? Good oil pressure? Is power good? Need some more information to narrow it down.