AZB755V8

Oil pressure is not an uncommon problem with a lot of engines. I was making a little fun of adding 90 weight, do not do, but if all else is OK the fix is lower end bearings and pump spring. Not knowing any more about your engine or service, maintenance that can add to the issues the fix is straight forward and would take about a day or so to do labor wise. The V8's were harder on bearings than the I6's and if not replaced at every 250K the engine would be toast. If done with proper scheduled maintenance a million miles before rebuild could be had on the V8. Some others here would probably say a longer interval on a bearing roll on the 6 cylinder engines. I think 670k miles is pushing it though.

Roll in some new main and rod bearings. Probable has over 500K miles on it. Oil pressure is OK at 1650RPM so pump should be fine just replace pressure spring. Or... put some 90 weight in it and the pressure should go up for awhile....😀

Yes it can be done but I would say the bumper is the least of your things to find. There are 3 brackets that are needed to make the center tow pin work. The flush mount brackets can not be used with the extended bumper. They are lighter duty items and the extended bumper brackets are massive compared to them. The photos are of a Superliner II and a CL713 which is very similar if not the same except for bit of extended frame in front on the CL. The brackets from a Superliner II or CL713 will work the bumper narrows at the ends on a Superliner and is straight on a CL. I am considering the same bumper switch, the actual bumper is the easy part.

Looks like Allen Nelson's LT. Think that is the one with an E9 in it. Probably not even working it hard, just a stroll in the park. 👍

I got one for Superliner II that I will be selling with rectangular light holes. Real nice chrome steel maybe stainless, it shines real good and next to new, I'm sure not alumiclad. No corrosion, rust or bends. Just need it for the next month or so. I am thinking of going to the Macungie Show in June and can have it there. $400 OBO with free ride

Think you might be looking for a long time. There are engine manuals and chassis manuals. But there are no installation manuals for DIY engine swaps. The only manual is here at BMT and it is all the guy's knowledge. This is why this site is what it is. The information is stored in the minds of men that have worked on these now old trucks. It is information that is slowly becoming obsolete along with all the old iron. A transplant with a totally mechanical engine can be done but you better know someone or have someone do it if you don't know how. Better to buy a Superliner with an E9 in it already. It is not just the engine needed but, bigger radiator, intercooler, possibly clutch and transmission to consider. Not to mention all the brackets, hoses and tubing needed. Just finding all the parts needed will take years to accumulate to actually do it right. The cost of all this extra stuff will be more than a good running take out E9 then add labor that will not be cheap if you can find someone willing to do it. One thing for sure is everything is real big, heavy, greasy, dirty and rusty to work with and not a beginner mechanic's first project. Hope it happens though

How many years did it sit there to grow all that Green hair? It surly would be a thumper with that KTA Cummins turned up to 600HP. Was it abandon or just enjoying retirement growing old in the arms of Mother Nature?

It will be fine as a hobby truck. No real load on it and low mileage per year, it will be a perfect candidate for hobby and cool factor. I have an ENDT 866 in my B model and have had only little problems other than putting miles on it in a year. A few little fixes but no real new parts needed, don't let that scare you. If you get it put new rod and main bearing in it and a new oil pump spring, just as Lmackattack said. It would be nice to see another V8 stay running and taken care of.

See you are a newby here. Welcome... You did see that post you are asking about is 6 1/2 years old... Right... The inline pumps are hard to find these days. If you do find one be prepared to pay for it. Most know what they are worth and going for on here. The marine and military E9's rated over 750hp had the inline pump with 13mm plungers. The standard E9 inline had 12mm plungers. The V pumps had 11mm plungers. You want an inline pump call Dale Frances Engineering in Painesville, Ohio. He has the military inline pumps and a few pumps off pulling trucks for sale. No deals and not cheap.. but he has them.

I has a Cat 931B for years. It was a real handy machine for just about anything. Had a 4 in 1 bucket and pin on John Deere 16 foot removable hoe on the back. It sat for the last ten years I had it and leased the house and barn. Put a fresh battery in it a shot of ether and it fired right up every time. It was stored inside most of the time I had it. Rebuilt the engine, undercarriage, drive clutches and brakes... over the years. Sold it for $2000 after owning it for 25 years, no one wanted it, had descent paint on it to. Ran fine and still could move a lot of dirt around. Funny but use to be working it with the girl I was dating sitting to one side, Ya know sort of like that Green tractor song, over 25 years ago. We'll be married 25 years in May. Actually got my first Mack to pull it around in the early 90's.

Don't know about an RD frame. The RW and MH and CL frames are wider at the front to fit the E9 engine. There were some DM's with E9's as well. A strait frame may not work as is but anything is possible. Even the aluminum frame waistcoats E9 trucks had the front part of the frame wider.

I will be trying to make door panels in the next few months. The machine being used to do most of the work just got fixed this week. The panels will be embroidered for the inserts not heat set like originally done and be very hard to see any difference. Original style, solid and perforated, naugahyde material will be as close to original as possible. I am after the original look but original NEW panels have not been available for over 10 years, in any color. Colors I will make are, black, tan and maybe, red, gray. I am not planning on making a lot of these but we will see how it goes. If well maybe a whole interior kit.

Not mentioned yet. While you have the oil pump off put a NEW pressure relieve spring in the pump. It is a $15 part that does fail over time. Just a good precaution.

That Lizard Skin is really good stuff and You defiantly have the history the facts. The Arizona connection a little funny. In the summer on a black or dark color car you can cook an egg on the hood or roof with no problem. My kids left string cheese on the car fender in the sun, it melted and stripped the paint under it. Heat is a issue here and I did not know that the LS was so good at controlling it. I Already have the mats on the inside of the cab and will consider putting it on the under side of the cab for heat. Wonder if the LS could be sprayed to the back side of the interior panels and stick to the cardboard to help with heat? It would be cleaner and faster than masking and spraying the interior of the cab. Could probably roller it on and get a good result. I will be using it on the inside the the hood and fenders.

Pete, It would be easier if you would post what you got as most here do not have a Type 45 fire engine parked out back to compare. But we may have an idea were to get or match up the light you are after.

Keep hearing about shipping cost killing deals on trucks. There is a company that totes around ambulances and service trucks for disaster areas. They do fill in transport for stuff like we mess with. When I had my B-755 shipped from PA to AZ the cost was a $1.00 a mile as one of his trucks was deadheading back this way. Thought it was a good deal. Got a 26 foot long frame from Denver to Phoenix hauled for $600. A little less than $1.00 a mile. I could not get my truck there and back for that money. Anyone need the info PM me and I can dig it up, Think it was, Kansas City Transport. Guy's name was Stan.

I am using the Lizard skin or similar for doing under the whole fiberglass hood and fenders to quit things and get a good look. There are a lot of spray-in bed liner shops around here as well. "They put that shit on everything". There are whole $50-60k Jeeps running around Arizona covered with that stuff. The inside of the Mack cab is a little different, I use that mat stuff that is $68 a pack not the $190 DuraMat over priced stuff. Used it in my LTL restoration and really does work. There was no rust in the cab just a few mount and wire holes to weld up. The Superliner cab is the same, no rust. Arizona is real kind to metal parts even for 30-50 year old trucks. No need to seal anything here for moisture. The spray stuff just does not come off even if a metal modification needs done or to show the condition of the metal to Guys at a show. It is good stuff though.

Getting my 3 trucks ready to go. Will be there Thursday- Saturday. RW, B, LTL.

This Black panel is what I am looking for, just like in my Superliner. I can digitize any logo and embroider it on any material, that is part of my business. Just trying to find the panels before I go though all the work to get something close to original. If I do, is there any interest in me doing more for a few others? Not thinking of the whole interior but that is a possibility since the whole interior is out of my truck to Dynamate it to quit it down and lower the temp on hot days. Got the patterns....

This has been brought up before but I hope there are panels available now, new, aftermarket or used. Door panels came in several different colors and maybe a few styles for the R Cab doors. I "Had" a really good set in my Superliner until yesterday when I remover the passenger seat. Covered the door seal and aluminum trim with a towel and tore the 30 year old vinyl lower door panel with the mounting plate edge still bolted to the seat upon exiting the truck. I have called all my sources for a good used set as both sides have to match, of course. This included the local, only Mack dealership in Phoenix, several Mack bone yards, even Barry at Watt's. Parts are obsolete and have been for years in any color. All I want is a Black set in good condition without taking these to an upholstery shop to try and match up. Original manufacture is out of business so is there any of these panels laying around somewhere? If not mine have to go and the bottom portion under the trim band be reupholstered. I never noticed but the ones I have do not match from side to side in the first place. One side has 4 centered buttons in the lower details the other side has none.

Introductions are in order being a virgin to BMT. Welcome More info is needed. But first if you have a primer on the fuel pump have you pumped until it starts to get a little harder to pump them try and start? Check the fuel lines for cracks or lose fittings that let air into the system. This will cause the prime to be lost. If it is the charge pump it usually come on slow and gets harder to start over time. Same with a bad secondary fuel filter. There are several post here about E9 fuel pump issues recently. Have you read any of them first? Sort of like the answer is here you just have to search and read before asking the same question

I was in the same position as you years ago. I was allowed to use the machinery in the shop i worked at after hours on my own stuff. Had the same issues or guys just tying up machines to be Dicks. Go to HGR Industrial Surplus in Cleveland and get a nice used lathe and Bridgeport. You will ask yourself why you didn't do it years ago. Got a nice Brown & Sharp surface grinder $600 and a Do-All saw $900. A servo drive Monarch EE toolroom lathe for $1600. Just the convention from tube drive was $20,000 to have done.They were made for over 60 years and super accurate. Best thing I ever did for myself.

I heard both stories on what the Gold bulldog meant. I had gold V8 emblems on one truck and it was a 1972 Maxidyne. Wonder if that is what it meant as well. The Gold color on the Maxidyne engines is what I remember but as Rob is saying they quit using Gold and went to other colors apparently because of an EPA issue.

I did not hear the story why Mack quit using GOLD on the Maxidyne engine or was it at the end of the actual Maxidyne engine run? The old v8's, silver was Thermodyne and Gold was Maxidyne. Before that the color was a green drab that was on most mack engines up to 1965 or so. I do remember the blue, red, gray and black engines and a few copper.

Hauled Coca-cola, That explains the Red with White mustache paint. More than likely never had any rust.