AZB755V8

Vlad, Think these are the Wheels you are referring to. They are Accu-Ride not Alcoa. They were an option on the Ford 9000 back when? I had to have then reworked for stud pilot from hub pilot so they would work on the old B model. It took some searching 15 years ago to find 10 good 24.5 rims even back then. They have the oval 5 holes but do have the correct wheel contour of the old Alcoa 5 hole split rims. Second photo is for comparison. At a distance you would have to take a second look to see the difference in the holes.

The 88's are definitely V Pumps. The 90 is also with a rare chance of an inline. A photo of the engine will tell all. The inline pumps started to be used in late 90 and the total change over was in 91. The Superliners was gone in 92 and a few of them had the inline. I don't know of but a few conversions to the inline pump over the years. My Sperliner had a whole E9 transplant out of a 93 CL Elite that had the inline pump already. It is a better pump for big HP but there is nothing wrong with a V pump in every other application. The V has 11mm plungers and is good for around 750hp. The inline about 1000hp with standard 12mm plungers. With 13mm plungers the inline is good for 1500hp. I don't know that I would pass on an E9 in a nice truck with ether style pump. If you want it stock at 450-500hp ether will work great and plenty of power. To convert from one pump to another is not that EZ. Either way you have to have custom lines and brackets made as they are discontinues a long time ago.

It should be the Powers steering reservoir that is making all the mess. They leak even on a good day and all the time. The manifolds are rusted so there is no oil just running on them not when this E9 is running. There would be no oil remaining like that after a good days run. Good thing is the manifold seal is more than likely good with that nightly oil covering it. Can't tell what you got until it is running anyway but can speculate here. The big issue with these is breather blow-by and valve guides not oil leaks. If you are looking for a complete E9 I got a whole MH with less that 100K miles and sitting for 20 years. Sell it for less than you are talking for just an engine.

Hi, Did not get that past email. I did send info to your email today.

Hi, You can email me: jeff.caron@aol.com Let me know what you need. Got them all as shown, these are really nice! I did not expect to ship to Australia so shipping cost will be whatever it is with your preferred method.

eBay, Like $10 with free shipping. All you should need is the primer. It is leaking air so loosing the prime.

I did not have a Deere track loader but... Had a Cat 931B track loader with that same pin on Deere backhoe. Used it a lot for building my house, barn and maintaining the 18 acres of woods I had for years. I could not give it away about 5 years ago. Actually Sold for $2000 made me Sick but went for Scrap price. It looked good and did not need even paint. There was Noting wrong with it but age. It did not have ROPS and that was a issue. It had a 4&1 bucket as well. Rebuild tracks, new shoes, new sprockets, new oversized hinged lower mouth bucket, Engine with 250 hours, drive clutches, brakes. Hoe needed bushings but dug anything I wanted. Only used about 4 gallon of fuel and hour. Always started and ran well even when it was close to freezing. You do not want to drive a track loader on frozen ground or snow!! It was the perfect machine for anything around the property. With that 4&1 hauling firewood & taking out tree stumps was a piece of cake. You can hook a log splitter up to the hydraulic hoe lines and just leave the engine idle and split anything. Could really carry about 2 1/2 tons in the extended bucket with the hoe on the back, needed the counter balance weight. Open the bucket and push like a Dozer. If I still had property it would be the machine to have. These older machines are not hard to work on just heavy parts and big wenches. Cat charges $$$ for parts but only thing I sent out was the engine block to get bored and line honed when it was rebuilt. Weight came up here The 931B with hoe was 22,000lbs. The Deere should be no more than 16-17,000. You should be able to haul this on a 20,000 tilt bed equipment trailer. Think the hoe pins are 1 1/2" Dia. Just get round bare stock and drill the ends for carter or spring pins.

That certainly looks like it is Bi-metal with a large radius. It maybe a piece off a well worn crankshaft thrust bearing. The rear side bearing does wear especially with a stiff clutch and being held down for extended periods of time. This could be the outer lip that is generated as the crank wears into the bearing. Crank walk and adjusting the clutch would be a sign of this.

You both know that Mike passed away, Right? Sorry to let the administrator & moderator of this forum know of Passed events.

I lived in Cleveland at that time but did not see that truck. If you are wanting info on the RW/E9 swap I maybe able to help. My current Superliner stared life with 6 cylinders and grew some balls around 2005. The swap was done at Madison Mack and build primarily for sled pulling. Since then it has been retired and turned down to pull a trailer to an occasional show with some other Mack's on the deck. You need some Mack V8 or valve cover emblems let me know.

I have posted in the past on these emblems that have been in the works for 4 years. Finally they are finished and ready to ship. These emblems only came on the 1993 Elite CL and impossible to find originals for almost any price. These were on the valve covers of the E9 black engines and maybe on the E7-400's not sure. The only way to get them was on the valve covers, there was no Mack part number for only the emblems. A lot of time effort and $$ went into getting these done and they tuned out Great. I am using several sets on my E9's and have some for sale. $125 each, $20 shipping. Free shipping or gift for 2 or more, you will like the gift. PM me if interested There are 3 finishes to choose from This is the way the back comes. The pins can be cut off to use 3M emblem tape. Drilled and taped 8-32 thread or use speed nuts. 0.270 inch OD. Original emblem the molds were made from.

The emblems are as accurate as can be. The bottom emblems are the originals. Take a look at the pins compared to the top 4 emblems, they are the same spacing even with the taper to start the kwik-nuts, they are a direct fit. I have original emblems with the pins broken off, one of the reasons for making these. 3M high bond tape works great if the pins are missing, cut-off or drilling is an issue. I have mounted emblems with 3M tape for years. All newer car emblems are mounted with the 3M high bond material.

Finally got the V8 emblems to the finish line after 4 years. Through Covid, bad molds, supply chain logistics issues, companies going out of business everything has been experienced doing these emblems. The end result is Excellent and a Great recreation of the originals. You will be hard pressed to tell the difference. The Original emblems the molds are made from are on the bottom of each photo. Both the Silver & Gold finish is very nice but I will not guarantee the finish for outdoor exposure. If exposed to the elements they will need chromed. They are electro-plated, environmentally friendly, as chrome was not an option without even more hassles. I have had the original emblems rechromed for $25 each as they were gold originally so not an issue to have these Chromed. Heavy weight not pot metal as most recreations emblems are. If you have tried to get these from Mack they had the price at $95 each 25 years ago. I have seen them go on eBay for $200 plus each and pitted. Price is $100 each with free shipping on (2) or more emblems and ready to ship now. I can do CCards. PM me if interested. Thanks for looking.

Only place I know of is Frances Engineering in Painesville Ohio. I got a set a few years back from there. He certainly has more. Google it to get the phone number. Talk to Dale.

A mechanical tach can be used on any size engine or cylinder count. They all rotate at a standard RPM rate so any tach will read the same. On an E9 the V-pump is mechanical with the tach drive on the front of the auxiliary drive housing inline with the injector pump. The inline pumps are electronic tach's with the pickup on the flywheel. A solution is adding a sensor and pickup on the harmonic balancer and go with a new electronic tach.

Nice to see that replica interiors will be available. Put me down for a black kit provided that the stitching is the double 3/8 width with corner radius as the original heat set vinyl with proper chrome door trim. Normally the head liner has the fine holes and not solid, is that part of the production kits? I was looking at doing kits but COVID killed that and production equipment was sold.

Yes, as I said "tweaking" causes issues! Junk that engine at that point. It is a lot harder to do that to an E9 but plenty of those got junked from turning them up to far. Ever seen one pop head bolts? Not hard to do.

There are a lot of "ifs" to consider with getting more power out of a factory rated engine. Tons of time has be engineered into them for power, durability, reliability, etc. Knowing this I went to Mack, years ago, to get a few answers from the master engineer of the E9, Steve Trevitz. Haven't talked to him in years "retired" but getting more out of an engine usually takes little for a 50-75hp/250-300 torque gain. That is all you should be looking for, because "tweaking" causes other issues. Standard injectors are fine for this gain. I can say that the the Military/Marine Mack injectors are for 200hp plus gains with a lot of other modifications. All that you need is a new S300 Borg Warner turbo, same size as what you got. Turbo technology over the last 25 years is incredible. You will get a lot more boost out of it. Have your fuel "at a pump shop" increased 15%. Maybe add a few degrees timing. Pyro gage, That is all. Along with head studs a light right foot and keep an eye on coolant temp, cracked heads will happen with heat. NO stabbing the throttle, epecially unloaded, you will snap the crankshaft. Have a good clutch and just you driving it, not a multi-driver engine now. Guys get drunk on power and this engine will have a very short life.

PM Sent

Been looking for a set like that, are there more available? I'll swap for a NOS pair of the brushed finish dogs I got. I don't know the actual use for shiny ones but I want them for on a set of mirrors but if not available the brushed one will do.

Boy Oh Boy, Todays youth are so inpatient! Maybe Old men I don't know your age, for sure an incredible undertaking. Think Matt has been working on this for 4 years?? Oh crap it is looking like 7 years maybe actual time start to finish, wow time flies. Took me 1995-2013 to get mine done, that is only 18 years, You can't rush Perfection, Matt is doing Fine 👍 I want to see it completed before... you know I die as well... but it will be the best NEW, OLD, B Model in the country if not the World!!!! Love Macungie, Don't think I will make it this year with Biden... I mean fuel prices... It would be over $5,000 round trip in the Superliner with trailer and other two on deck. All in about $7,500 for the trip, LOL.

Think is going to take a LOT MORE than a couple of dollars just to get it running again. That old girl has been rode hard. Price reflects what you get Bones with hardly any meat left hanging on. Does have a wounded E9 with P7100 inline pump that is probably the most valuable thing there as a core engine. Hope it stays away from any boat ride!!

Sorry for your Father's passing. There are many ways to deal with the situation bestowed on you and family. Every antique owner of any type, cars, trucks, furniture, etc. knows the value of their possessions. More so what they have in them for time and money then add the sentimental value that is priceless. What it looks like you have in the B-73 is truly exceptional and just needs the right owner. There are many guys that will not even get passed talking about "how much it is worth" really have no idea or never see the rig in person. It is frustrating to hear $25-30k is the price range but everyone has an opinion. matt73lt, that has valued your truck is restoring a B-73 and documenting his project, take a look at his thread. When finished the truck will be beyond perfect in every way. Matt would laugh if someone offer him $30k for his finished truck, IMO. Most all people do not know the time, effort and passion that it takes to restore an old Mack truck. I certainly have not do it for the return on investment but preserving a little transportation history. I think your father viewed things the same. Looks like he went to a great lengths to make his baby a standout. That is not cheap. All you need is one new owner to agree and pay for it. The value number your Dad stated is not padded with sentimental $$. If you go to sell it start with that and can always come down, never up. I think its would be worth every penny, IMO. The reason I know is my truck looks much the same way and there is a lot more in it than actual $80k. That was just for all the Best parts I could find over 10 years before restoration began. My boys with have the same situation as you when I die. Think I would roll over in the grave if all they got was $25-30k. Good luck, don't agree with all that is said here, all comments are just opinions. My restored B-755

Well this has been over a 3 year, started Sept 2018, quest to get some Really Nice Emblems Made. Gone though several places that said they could do them and all failed badly. I was at the end of the line with trying, thinking I wasted a lot of time and $$$ to get a few Emblems. I had been contacting my last vendor for over a year and a half and finally gave up. Then to find a present in FedEx a day before this Christmas 2021. From what I know the Dog is a one year only Emblem with no part number. It was used on the 1993 CL Elite Limited trucks on the valve covers for the E7-400 and E9-500 engines. There is two round .250 dia. x .125 high inch tabs on the back that can be drilled and taped 8-32 for mounting. They will look Great on anything even belt buckles. The V8 is the iconic Mack Emblem that is still highly desirable and big $$$ if you can even find one or two in good shape. This Emblem has the correct mounting studs. What do you think of the end result? They are heavy not diecast or pot metal. There is an Original Emblem in each photo for comparison. I am very particular with what I would put on my trucks and these are a close to Original as you will Ever find and New. I am not OK with the gold as it is a coating over the Chrome and had a sample from over 2 years ago. It was on my desk in the sunlight and faded to Chrome. I will see if I can just get some in bare Brass or Bronze plated instead of the Gold. I can not guaranty the finishes other than Chrome, it is triple plated and nice. These will be ready to go in 4-6 weeks. Price for now is $100 each with free shipping on 2 or more Emblems. A Very far price considering all that has went into getting these Really Nice Emblems to the finish line.

I was on the lookout for Replacement steering wheels a while back, like 10 years ago. I did get a new Black one from Charmers back then, it was the smaller diameter wheel so I had a little more room for the Belly in a B cab. I don't know if this wheel will have the correct spline but it certainly is worth a call to ask. I have posted this website before, prices and availability seem OK. Looks like they have both large and small diameter. https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/stwhform35an.html $142.00 each