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Watch the Back Lot on the ATHS web site--sometimes one will pop up there. https://aths.org/advertising-with-aths/AdBuilder/List

That looks like a handy tool! Speaking of frame rails, I remember reading years ago when Jim Etters built Papa Thermodyne, he had the rails shot peened to relieve stress. Does anybody know if sandblasting does the same thing, or do you have to use a certain kind of shot to do this?

My crossmembers are damaged, so I wanted to steal one out of a parts truck...of course, the spring hanger/crossmember bolts were rusted and seized but good. They also hide one bolt in each hanger behind the leaf springs so you can't get a socket on it. Then, after I got the bolts all out, the springs were squeezing in on the frame so I had to lift the rails out of the hangers to get the crossmember out. This was a full day's job to get these things out! Notice the frame rail torch cut--someone added a Neway air bag axle years ago and they butt welded the frame rails as well as doubling them. I cut the rails behind the weld so if this frame gets used, it can be cut at the correct spot.

I really like the 700 series. My grandfather owned a Brockway dealer so I'm partial to them...If I couldn't own a Mack, that would be my next choice.

Northern Wisconsin? Is that below the Arctic Circle?

Truck's been sitting for 40 years, but just put in some fresh fuel and drive it home. ;-) Only $13k, I'll take two of them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-Mack-B-Model-truck/253530667279?hash=item3b079af90f:g:ozgAAOSw629avpwu&autorefresh=true

That hood looks even longer than a Superliner...I'll bet that's a great view looking out over it.

Amen to that!

Saved one shotgun shell! Good dog.

It says no motor but there's a 2 cycle valve cover poking out of the hood.

I don't know anything about that company, but they sure have a neat yard.

Both of those are quite possible.

The clevis adjustment is to get the correct rod length...I forgot the exact procedure but I think you apply the parking brakes and the slack adjuster should be 90° to the rod (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). When you install a new rod or chamber you usually have to cut the rod to get the correct length. Then you adjust as Terry says.

I would check your grounds real good...could be rusty or broken wire.

Here's a question for you...some of the tanks on my trucks have a spacer between the frame rail and the bracket, and others don't. Does anyone know what the spacer is for?

That is a sharp looking MH! What is that trailer...a camper?

Yeah, those mixers are cool! I'll bet there aren't many of that model left in existence.

Some nice looking paint work! I especially like the black CL.

I saw Little Irvy and the KW at the Ohio State Fair back in the day. I met Tyrone at a Bandag shop in Columbus in 1988, he had several of his trucks there. He started up one of them that had a 6V92 with some huge turbos on it...that was a memory that will stick with me for a long time.

What are the power units for on the trailer in the last photo?

Sending it to Rob.

This was in a pile of parts I got; I don't need it. As you can see, the needle is broken...free to a good home if you pay shipping. PM me your address and I'll send it to you.

This was in a pile of parts I got; I have no need for it. It's in really nice shape; free to a good home if you pay for shipping. PM me your address and I will go ahead and send it to you.

1973, do you do body and paint work full time, or is it a hobby?

Since it's only at boost, I would bet money on an exhaust leak. One trick I've used (if you don't see a smoke trail anywhere on manifold or gaskets) is to use a mechanic's stethoscope that has a hose to the working end. Pull the hose off and nose around the exhaust gaskets, manifold, etc. If there's a miniscule leak you'll pick it up with the stethoscope...just be careful because if you go jabbing that hose into a leak too fast you could damage your ear drums!