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Good advice Glenn. Good explanation too ! most Guys just check the cooler and that aint enough .Check the whole engine and get the whole story !!! A common leak is the the compressor inlet on some of the engines depending on how its plumbed !That wont get picked up by testing just the cooler! And put 30-35 psi to it more is better! So What trans do you have?

Glenn in my opinion It is a little low I believe 25 to 30 wouldn't be out of the way for a 400! First IS the gauge correct? Next are you trailing smoke while pulling? If so! If you have a a pyro it should be staying around or under 1100 deg max when pulling if not check the air filter and check for boost leaks ! If you have a 18 sp Mack trans unplug the torque limit switch at the rear upper range cyl see if this helps the situation!

These dash panels weren't the greatest the dash panel printed circuits break over time!

Oil Is Cheap How much blo by do you have?

YOU NEED TO RUN THE TWO TOP ORINGS the third oring can be used but is not necessary if you study the injector a bit you'll see that it doesn't mater if you use the bottom one its sealed at the tip by the steel washer! all of your injectors Should have a return hole that didn't change till early 2000

Yup What he said !

As said THEY Need common Rail !However The Volvo way the dollar store way! Keep working with what you have just patch it over and add to it! Also as mackpro stated and is correct the injectors rattling around in the cups doesn't help things , Do away with the plunger and part of the problem will likely Go with it . OR (Keep doing the same thing over and over you'll likely get the same result!) who knows we May not even have to use the (magic ) sealing grease they require to install them. Sorry! I Just don't get the mentality ! Why not use some good old Mack straight forward ingenuity !

IF This don't work your pulling it back out to find out why! By the way you need to turn the engine a 1/4 turn and do tap each pedestal on the clutch

Providing you surfaced the fly wheel and the inner hub is not hitting the bolt heads on the crank! OR ( Clutch plates in bacKwards) You need to check these first!! This is how I Would proceed Set it in this order! 1- set the clutch brake Make sure the release bearing touches the brake about 3/4 of an inch off the floor ! 2 - the set ring in or out to get 1/2 to 9/16 gap between the throw out bearing and the brake you should now have 1 1/2 free pedal 3- if your still having issues turn the engine till the clutch bolt pedestal is in the window of the bell cover there is a hole in the the middle take a punch or bolt of the correct size stick it in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer this will center the dowel pin on the intermediate plate see if this helps!

Unlike the dollar store fuel line fiasco trucks catching fire became safety issue, No one will tell them the HAVE To fix this or else! Its not a safety issue yet ! It really is to bad, the base engine Seems good . (my opinion) however If They would Take the time to redesign the head properly! AND TEST IT Properly! ,they would likely have something to be proud of! Not that pride has much to do with anyone's product any more! $$$$$$$$$$$$ But Instead they continue to patch the patches!

There is a air fan set up available for some models Check with your dealer

Another Band aid ( Remember the old fuel line feasco on the grey engine when they changed to the dollar store fuel lines ) Aluminum foil over the line was the first patch up! This is similar! Why totally redesign when we can patch! cheap asses

well needed a wheel seal anyway! Good Find! Dam lucky Find as matter of fact

Depends on where you live! Canada approx 500 parts 1200 labour

You need to roll bearings in every 7 -10 thousand hours to be safe we have a customer that has 40000 + hours and counting on his! they thrive on logging and dump truck work ! long haul not so much!

Check the screen in the funny looking hose at the oil cooler ( We call it the elephant hose !) It has a screen in it!

Well if they don't do away with the plunger on the injector then This will not solve the current and on going cup prob;em in my opinion From what I have seen on these engines the injector is not held down properly to start with.from what i have heard this people have been fighting this issue for years they keep doing the same thing over and over! Its Quite fitting if you think about it Dollar store injectors suit Volvo ! Wouldn't really expect them to do anything else! Again just an opinion

Unit pumps usually show up codes there should be a bunch of inactive codes for a pump if that is what is causing the light to come on!

As long as the pump drive is the same the timing should be close enough to run depending on the year! Older engines were Tang drive newer engines were coupling driven If the pump housing has a screw in plug it is tang drive If the housing has a place for a plug but is cast over then it is coupling driven

Yup IF the oil is going in or out of the turbo It will likly so on the in or out pipes! How ever if you are standing in a cloud of blo by gasses while standing next to the truck think the answer is clear! (Note We Have had problems with the mussel loader kits being assembled poorly The rings not positioned correctly!)

DId They use Mack mussel loader kits or jobber parts?

Was the inframe done prior to you owning the truck! if so what parts were used?

K Soo blowby is a wear / age issue issue Unless you plan on throwing a big bag of money at it, if it runs drive it and make money be happy!The turbo its self can cause bloby how ever it usually appears under hard pull conditions when the boost is high .

You should be makin 30 pounds easy with all the tweaks you've done If the puff limiter slave piston is still in the hole remove it and put a temporary cork in the hole and go for a drive Something is holding out on you here! Make sure the throttle lever is going full on and the stop full off ,Also you need to be making at least 20 plus pounds of fuel pressure UNDER LOAD to get the best bang for your money. One Thing to note If you juice a 350 to hard you can break the block At number 4 main cap! They don.t have butrus screws like the E7!

You need to treat the 12v bats as you would the 4- 6 v, only now one 12v is now = 2 - 6v one on either side of the sp switch!