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If It ran on ether The cam or valve set are likly out the window!Sothings going on here that the ecu dosent see as a problem!

Bleed em at the head ! The (Mack way is for normal situations) you have an abnormal situation . Crack the fuel line at the head at least two if not all the cyls get solid fuel there as per rhaslers instruction ,then you know for sure where your at !Also I'm sceptical of the valve set ( IF YOU had the cam out) you said you could not find info on the set? The valve set marks are on the fly wheel, set the engine on one of the marks and check for valves rocking on one of the cyls and then check the set on the other.We Don't even know if the cam is in time at this point as you have been thrown into the middle of things here! Was the cam out ? Another WARNING For you If this engine has droped a valve, I Would be Taking a serious look at the Lifters on that cyl If it has Ceramic lifters You may be doing a cam sortly if you do get it running. Just my opinion!

Its a hard call !If you don't want to spend the bucks then clean em up and move on! V8 heads had a tendency to drop valve seats WITH OUT WARNING it would happen like this, shut the engine down for the day , start the engine in the morning and it would be banging. The point is you need to scrutenize the valve seats when you have em apart wether your rebiulding or just patchin look at em close ! Either way the heads will serve ya best by looking at the seats,

Go after them damp spots first see if that repairs the problem Check the plastic line between the pump and the head and the jumper between the heads! Also the valve that the plastic line goes to, take the end off of that and check to make sure the spring is not broken.

You have a unit pump that is starting to get glitchy just run it till it starts getting trouble some,this can go on for months / years If it becomes to frequent then do somthing with it! Yes its servicable but you need to have the Cal code installed at the dealer ,Also note! If I were you I would take the covers off the unit pumps and check all the bolts for tighness, I did one yesterday (Pump three ) the bolt on one side was about to break ,when I went to remove the pump the bolt broke off and the other was loose This May be the cause of or just a symptom of your problem.

I Agree with Rob just build it its just a hobby truck correct?

The MH set up is lkly to bulky to what he's doing bro! Train can you post a picture of the A box!???

DITO Yup they send the shit to mack and keep the good stuff for them selves! Oh did I say that ? OOPS Tis a Cummins plot.Take out the competion make em eat shit!

James there aint a whole bunch wrong with the MP engine.AGAIN as with the cummins and the rest Its the bolt on crap that is causing the most grief with all the engines for the most part. The Mp 10 produces ample power easily compared to an ISX! The guys around here that are running them and the isx side by side and and say the cummins gets left behind on the hills! Why would you want to by a Cummins ! Its Takin me three years to say this I am a Doubting Tom type guy ,But do beleive these to be Decent power plant for a Mack truck we just need to get the rest of the truck back up to snuff

Well boys Finally got the machine back to do the re install of the pump its all together and she runs like a champ I set the valves at 17 or so and timing at 25 and she lit right up. The customer is totally happy with the job.Thanks for all the tips ! Apparently the timing advances to 8 degrees after starting so that would put the engine right in that 34 range you spoke of, Mike!

Yup it can be done no problem you just unbolt the stick and remove the air lines from the low range cyl if its a twelve speed BUT there a usually some clamps holding wires and the air compressor line thou and they are usually a pain to get to with out the floor up!

Just a note for you guys one of the trucks that had the block plate started using coolant again we ended up plugging off the coolant to the cooler as well .So point being here the heating and cooling cycles of exhaust gas is only part of the equation when dealing with egr cooler leakage if you want a complete reprieve from any leaks you need to plug off the coolant passages as well.

Since the swede's took over the whole customer service thing has gone out the window!I have to pause and think Do they treat there Volvo customers the same way??? Or is it just the Mack side of the company? They wanted all of you Mack guys as customers but don't want to build mack trucks the way they need to be built ( MACK Tough) These Guys are actually worse than dealing with Cummins! You can also take note that that dealer that took the bull by the horns and repaired the problem Will likely not be payed for his efforts by the warranty people as they didn't follow proper proceed-er.

I think you'll be fine with the drift idea they have J tools for everything It don't mean we use em all!Theres a special tool for setting dynatard engine brakes I used it once and never again! Most things arent magic on these things as much as they would like to baffle you with BS !The new riggs are a diffrent story thou you can't really do anything with out a puter!

What Glen speaks of is important here ! Check closely for cracks around the 9 to 12 oclock area (facing forward) on the mating surface of the diff housing! Clean it up good then run a torch over the surface and look for oil bleeding up from cracks.

The sleeve bottoms in the head!In stall it with a little red locktight! Slather the injector with LOTS of neversease on install! And make sure the copper washer came up with old injecto, If not ya need to get it outa there!

YOUR THERE Already!

Simply use a 1 1/8 boxed end wrench and a screw driver OR your thumb to push and turn till snug on a 24 thou feeler and retighten and recheck after tight!

Thanx mike that helps loads I will likly be puting the pump back on this week That cold set is just the ticket I can set the valves after the pump is on!I have spoted the engine on 25 and marked the housing in hopes of keeping it in the same spot!The pump is a standyne / rosamaster pump You can tweak the pump on the fly with these I beleive But hope to have preserved the original set!I'll run it thru a valve set before I start it as I beleive part of its problem is there is no valve lash! Hopfully there are no burnt valves!

Gee I wonder where that bolt came from on the tire? :pat: