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Check PAI!

Glen 400 psi sounds a little low how ever it does make some sense the pressure would have to be lower than the injectors cracking pressure! Tech ,That said the guy with the failed piston likely had a bad injector to add to the advanced timing issue, we once had an engine come to the shop pump installed by the owner and all 8 pistons were burned up by a ill timed pump! On The Timing subject , I have used the remove the delivery valve method with a little different twist ,for years and it never failed me once !The method I was taught as follows ! remove #1 Delivery spring and needle valve reassemble hold down nut to pump , remove the inlet fuel line to pump make up a #6 one ended fuel line to fit on to the inlet Set the engine on the suggested timing mark Loosen the pump slot bolts leaving the top one snug on install loosen that snugged bolt after the pump is on and simply blow thru the hose you installed on the inlet and turn the pump till you can't blow or just see the tiniest amount of bubbles at the #1 line connection on the pump and simply lock it off at that point! Then test your set by turning the engine back a 1/4 turn and move back to the prescribed timing mark! 12 -24 degs depending on the model and year! It's fun to see everyone's different methods of getting it done !😁 The above method is best used when installing a new or reman pump as everything is off anyway and can be done with out getting fuel allover the place or just hooking up minimal lines!

It takes aprox 2500-3000 psi to lift the valves off there seats ! I highly doubt it would be worth buying a pump and finding one cheap enough to do this job once not worth your while! Your better removing the delivery valve and blo timing it! we have the tool at work Its a nuisance to assemble and use Much faster to blow time! just saying!

Pretty tough to beat a meritor diff From what I seen!

Check the mico switch on fuel pump these tend to get glitchy after years of operation!

I to Am interested in the make year of the dozer I have a similar looking unit in my back yard a 47 Oliver The trans noise you have was a common complaint and normal for them trannys nothing to sweat over !

Take note if this happens after a hard days work! if so you may have a injector cup issue!Is fine to replace injectors however if the cups are pitted you are wasting injectors they need to mate properly!

E7 ? Left Side near starter ! V8 right side bottom! flwheel housing

You have a two year warranty USE IT! As much as these are a decent trans THEY ARE PRICEY TO WORK ON! My opinion is that of Dave wild ! The fuller is a better choice do to the out extreme pricing by the Volvo people for parts! Your issue is not unique .It can be the lock out pin being ill set ,it and be a an over looked worn shift fork it can be a loose shift fork Bolt ! That's the short list! poor oil quality bla bla bla ! point is It has a warranty USE IT !

How old is it should have a warranty

If you got one of those little donut air filters on there ditch it and plumb it in to the main engine air inlet or the inlet manifold that will turbo charge it! !

Yes and No answer on my part! We have had engines come in idling perfectly fine ! Have a cam replaced and leave with an erratic Idle . leave with this idle syndrome not sure of the cause! I do know one thing for sure Its not worth chasing! you can spend a Big bag of money chasing it!

NO! However the flywheel has to be original or from a similar vmac engine!

The transfer pump sucks thru the primary (red) filter pushes fuel to the secondary (green) filter to the back port on the fuel pump and fuel returns to the tank on the foward outlet of the pump Make sure you set the flywheel sensor one half turn away from the flywheel if you have Disturbed it !

Yup! 2002 Mack? Never heard of one of those!!!!😠

Yup if we can't fix it you don't need it!

The good thing here is the new style followers Did not face crack like the old days if this had happened to an E6 the cam follower and cam would likley be done for buy now .You are sitting pretty good here for a repetitively cheap repair! Good luck with it bro!

So How is it that you can need a draglink for this vehicle and go the dealer to find that this part has been discontinued! These trucks must have been owned by the Volvo Group at some point or something ! None here in Canada?? got to be thousands of these sold as service vehicles here! BS In my mind!

Youch!....get a tar bucket maw, we’re reseal’in the driveway! Yup Agree ! OOP"S IMPORTANT info --> ( piston close to TDC) Make sure you don't knock the keepers out beating on those valves!

Ahh Sorry ! Just can't resist bashing these idiots !

Trent you guys got the best of both worlds ! A turned up 285 Maxidyne huge pulling range ect how ever a guy wants to watch how much you crank on it it can break the block! Unlike the e7 there are no Brutus screws holding things together When the e6 was converted to 350 they added in some jumper plates between the rod caps to try and stabilize the situation however a stop gap measure in my mind before the E 7 appeared! Just sayin!

If this were the case they could have put some effort into The Mack brand! And it would have and should have been the go to Vocational truck ! They could have dumped the `Volvo trash branded units and been miles ahead. Nothing smart about these guys! They have trashed out the MR as well ! At least we there will be the A Car/ and Pete for the industries to fall back on !

I think you won't have enough room for it ! The rad will be in the way! Won't be able to close the hood on it! More mods than you think I'm thinkin! Just sayin!

Agree

Possibly a broken injector tip ore a bad valve bent push rod I would pull the back valve cover first what colour is the smoke?