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Be sure to post the ending to this story Bud! Sad to see your having this issue to start with but will be a relief for everyone ! when its fixed! All ya can do is keep on em about it!

Yup James I Agree with you both ! However its just one more expense for the dealer to have to sent another person to yet another coarse that could be offered on line ! Try getting warrenty out of cummins OR anyone for that mater if you don't got a cummins isx ticket or an mp8 ticket bla bla bla! I just noticed my like dog button is gone owell Barry must hate me or something!

Thanx for posting your fix! Sorry weren't able to help!

Did someone change the ECU when you weren't looking ??? defiantly wrong codes for that engine ! We ran into this last week someone changed an ECU and didn't Reflash the thing kept derateing at 33 psi programed for a WASTE GATED turbo No waste gate on this unit! Reflashed it All is good ! You may want to have the dealer reflash the ECU and see how it is after! May just be the ticket! Worth tring in my mind!

Im with Mack Pro dealing with cummins is like having to deal with Russia and Korea as well as the swedes . to much politics and buck passing!

You said that out loud!

Well at least they wont be in the same spot as the above post for a bit! only one thing to go wrong! I for one will be curious how the above post will plays out the symptoms are similar to the repair we did to an older truck last week which turned out to be a cracked DPF can ! in this case they would likely have to replace the whole thing as its been sort of unitized!

Unfortunately you and the other two or three trucks are the guinea pigs in this situation and all you can do is be patient ! hopfully they will get to the end of the mystery soon and they will find a common failure on all of them for everyone's sake!

Be sure to remove the after cooler and dump the oil out of it preferably steam it out! like Trent said and also spoken go Right back to the air cleaner and check for metal CHANGE the air cleaner. and take every joint apart those little nasty's can hide! and hopfully you don't have to chase the exhast wheel back to the muffler you may have to drill a hole at the lowest point to drain the oil from the exhaust!

7 to ten thou would not be unreasonable!

Yup In the case above we pushed the unit into a regen FIRST and that's when the leaks show up the best the cracks open up and it all becomes apparent!

Some answers to your questions and some things to look for! We did one of these last week it turned out to be the usual crack in the flex pipe (EXHAUST LEAKS) PRE dpf (in part) And Two Cracks in the ASH can one at the DEF doser and one at the flange leaving the ash can! All contributing to lack of heat! The One thing guided D doesn't tell you ( and should) is to check for exhaust leaks or cracks in the DPF BEFORE you run guided D You tend to waste alot of time looking at the screen and doing stupid tests when you should be looking for a physical issue! We sometimes tend to forget the simple shit and rely too heavy on the tecky stuff! But if you are getting oddball nox efficiency codes and doser issues bla bla bla good idea to check further up stream for a physical problem first! before proceeding with the tests !

Yup I agree ! In my opinion that's what these forums are about! And I don,t mind sharing my experiences with people ! However its only polite to do the same back ! Alot of these guys have been nubies . The smoke one awhile back was a frustrating thread! Guy never posted what happened! It may save some else grief at some point!There Ain't A big bag of money to be had in this game now ,Back 20 years or so a guy could make a buck NOW With all this Teck crap on the trucks your lucky to drive past a shop with out having to turn in to get something fixed or diagnosed !

Well I for one would like to hear the resolve to this issue if you do reach the fix for this please post it! There has been quite a few posts lately that end up with no resolve! And I also agree pulling the pan don't cost much and worth a look after you check the end play on the crank! could be a broken block also who knows? This is quite an odd senerio ! We had an e7 with an od knock at idle presumed it to be injectors fuel knock piston slap bla bla bla ended up showing up as a cracked block after several months BEHIND the compressor! what we thought was a leaky compressor gasket!

The shift fork set screw can come loose as well all of the above pertain most odvious check to make righ now is that the yoke bolt is tight ! if not it can get pricey

I have a gauge built with a long whip on it 6 ft or so put it thru the vent window and drive it to get (REAL TIME) DATA in todays lingo ! Poor mans dyno! Drive around the block in a higher gear foot on the brake and throttle to the floor the gauge as stated shouldn't drop much below 20 under this condition if so you have either a restriction bad hose ,Bad pump OR (A TANK VENT PLUGGED) the last thing there is commonly overlooked ! Got burned on that the odd time! that also will show up on the gauge it will fluctuate! symptom of that is similar to yours runs good for fifteen minutes or so then dies out! just something else to look for.

I havent seen any here! So how much more def are they using ? And what about the particulate was that not an issue? No dpf? Sounds good to me I agree short sighted! Still got to fix the cheapass wire and dollar store sensors!😠

Do to regegs and a crystal sub and see if it clears it it simulates a work cycle

Well Quite honestly there Ain't much wrong with the core engine (shit Did I say that out loud) other than all the captive parts on it I prefer MP8 0ver the MP7 ,Having said that both engines have decent build attributes aside from the head/ injector cup issues, However the emissions crap as like everyone else's engines kills any profitability to be had , Cheap wiring / dollar store sensors Being the biggest issue .We just spent a whole two days chasing greened out wiring on def greened out in some highly improbable places. nice straight piece of wire Buried in the harness next to the trany no less than for spots on the wire just ridiculous .Totally unexplainable other than cheapass wire! Rant of the day!

So you first posted this on the 28 of feb ! Again I say So much for The MACK commitment to service and Uptime! Is the truck still not on the job? If not I think its time to go higher up! Voice your dissatisfaction! Unfortunately Its not the dealers fault and they are likely doing all they are allowed to do ! This is the point where the squeaky wheel needs to be greased !Phone the 1800 get satisfaction number and get the ball rolling! Throw the commitment to service and Uptime in there face Ask em what happened to that !!!!

IMO either seal pictured is a good seal national and c/r are descent seals The stemco voyager seal is also a good seal ! And I don't want to start a pissing match here however, IMO again, if your offered a stemco two piece turn and run! Over the years this seal went from my favorite to my most hated seal, Now a days just an observation , if I find a leaking wheel seal on a unit 7 times out of 10 its a stemco two peice I Won't use one unless I'm Desperate ! Just An opinion!

Well I for one would like to hear the resolve to this issue if you do reach the fix for this please post it! There has been quite a few posts lately that end up with no resolve!

Check plastic line from the fuel pump to the head for wear and tightness check the jumperline betwwen the heads for leaks and tightness!

In my opinion! You can stuff as much air down it you want , It anit gona give ya much more power unless the fuel is there to go with it!

These can top 0ut @ 40 psi with xt file rarely seen em go over that! If you don,'t have fuel you likly wont get any more boost