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Agree nice! pretty high hours is all! Althou we have one running around here with over 35 thousand hours never had the heads off it! luck of the draw maybe!

I have never understood why they spec low powered units with no gears behind the engine, always 250 horse -300 and an 8 or 10 speed trans makes no sense to me! Why not an 18 or 13 sp to make up a bit for the lack of power!??? Example Concrete pump usually spec a less than 400 hp power plant and a 10 speed trans ,Mixers Are in a similar situation! I understand today's and mentality emissions play a role how ever the transmission thing has always bothered me a bit!

Take out the bold-ed part and The statement would be correct!🙄

Check the engine brake slaves for winding apart ! Valve resessesion?

Yup agree with Tech Get on the powwow There are occasions where the shift lid is at fault the shift fork pinch bolt has loosened off how ever I would do as Teck has stated for now if possible! I also want to clarify Are you still getting a grind on the split! Some have come to our shop and complaining of a split grind when in fact they are combining the shift with the range shift !

BETCHA !!!! Toyota obviously is chipping in! The Anthem may spend a lot of time on the back of mighty moe ! However that would likely not show up on Camera if the sponsorship Idea is At work here! Unless its involved in a wreck! We will see! 🙄

Yup Agreed!

Weve had this issue before we ended up having to do ALL the orings in the system , OIL COOLER/ THERMOSTAT ect the fuel in the coolant ruined all the coolant orings!

Check the grounds down under the starter big bolt 15 / 16 head also if its an RD check the vehicle ECU plug under the dash rh side for being greened out as it faces up and if the windshields leak it can cause similar issues!

Well perfect that will give mighty Moe some thing else to tow when it needs to go to the shop for frost up def and the like!😎

Bro one of my main concerns here is the cam an over speed can take the the cam followers out bend valves and push tubes All of a sudden your looking at another big bag of money Cams don't come cheap PAI or not! And by the way PAI kits are exellent and better than the Mack stuff in the warranty Department how ever that said don't jump head first into this with out looking into the whole thing cam included make sure you got something to work with. 1

So Now that I have calmed down and thinking a tad clearer ! I apologize A bit for the out burst ! I hadn't taken into account your Greenness (for lack of a better word) to the trucking industry ! BUT ! If you had posted the whole story to start with Including the RPM Part ! It would have saved a bit of time and Typing and useless Ideas on our part! The Heads and bad or bent valves make sence somewhat now ! Now you have a huge can of worms ,head issues as well, as a possible cam failure now or for the future ! Not to be mean here But The sell the truck idea is a real good idea ! Or A good used engine may work for ya! 2004 was the most troublesome of years for this model of truck So throwing a big bag of money at it is NOT a good idea! Just sayin

So now we get more dribbles of info half assed questions half baked replies I’m done !!! Wall mart is a good idea! Had you saidyou had a runaway to start with we may have given better advice.yup you screwed up! want help? Post the whole story next time I’m Done talking!

If you used the feeler blade method it should be pretty much right on the money! I also personally like lots of grease on the clutch brake this may seem odd to some however I seen way to many of these ruined by over adjustment grease on the brake hurts nothing and helps other wise you run the risk of taking out the sensor for the flywheel!

This is a shame!

Buddy ! Have you confirmed the issue! ???? Confirmed a bad valves ???? Reman heads are just OK ! quality control sucks at the reman centre !Muzzle loaders are Only as good As the guy putting it together! I recommend Not just slamming the kits in with out first removing the pistons from the sleeves and checking ring gap alignment !!!! We have had these come in with three out of six ring gaps lined up not a good senerio! for you or your builder! However In light off what has happened And the order in which it happened Really question the diagnosis ! The smoke color e:ct does not add up in my mind! just sayin

Adjust the arm on the side of the trans so the clutch brake Just barely touches the bearing NOTE if you over adjust this with that Dam Air assist it tends to break the the clutch brake if it is aluminum!! it will take out the timing sensor on the flywheel and you end up with hard starting and a hard to replace sensor to repair ! Just sayin!

Year Please! Give us info or we can't help ! E7 Means very little! you need to pull the valve cover and look for rocker shaft pugs on some!need to know what year!

In my opinion you have blown off some injector tips with some shit in the tank water or something from off the bottom of the tank IF it sounds like it is missing ! No compression produces blu smoke usually! Black smoke means not enough air or to much fuel look for a blown turbo hose / bad turbo or something!Before you let these guys rip into anything on the engine! Check some stuff First !!!!

Probably Mack specific Parts James.

Agree somewhat! However the point that was mentioned earlier. how many eteck e7 or e six con rods have you seen come a part due to torquing to 150 only? However with the heads on these engines covering such a large area I can ,see the value in the torque turn method for this ! rocker shafts and the like not so much! We had very few issues back in the day with rocker shafts coming loose or breaking bolts till the redesign of the the head to use a 3/8 size equivalent bolt from a 7/16 size, All of a sudden we have bolts breaking coming loose pedestal shuffle ect .many of the issues we have these days in my mind is directly related to the under sizing of fasteners or the lack of presents (Not enough) of proper fasteners! another example being the new diff design Changed from three 1/2 inch bolts on the spur shaft to one 3/4 inch bolt that comes loose I've seen this happen more times than I'd like ! Just some examples! Just an opinion

Good to see you Pro. and good info ! so did they have anything bad to say finishing out the angle turn by impact? This here kind of makes sense ! How ever.....

Kind of have the same thinking .and it does take some of the grunt work out of it as well on the higher torque sets has its place I suppose! however as mentioned the Same bolt size same job and you change the proceeder for it ? Worked before!

Certain bolts used on the MP inierds rockers / injectors bla bla bla they recommend marking and are only to be used several times! Snap on sells a tecky digital torque wrench for this, pricey but if you doing lots of this kind of work worth having! I believe the Idea behind this is the tighter the bolt gets the more lost due to friction could impact the (eveness for lack of a better word) of the bolt tightness. we could likley add this number in however its more techy and MAYBE More reliable bolt tightness! And if they reasonable they stick to even numbers 90 degees, 120 degrees ect it can be done with an impact wrench!

They simply spiral in! no hammering or beating no reaming The only hammering involved is getting the old stuff out!