jwmcgregor

We have 4 MP8 and 1 D13 in our fleet. We struggle to simply check the engine oil level...even when cold and sat over night on all these MP8\D13's. Dipstick tube's seem to hold oil and make reading level on the stick difficult. Given the injector issues we've had with these engines and dealing with fuel in the engine oil we have become pretty sensitive to the issue. Have one now that appears to be over full of engine oil...Oil off the dipstick passes the HALO test. No bubbles in the fuel tank when truck is running. Oil does not smell fuel or seem to be diluted. My tech tool (TEXA) does not give me any feedback that I can find from the oil level sensor in the oil pan. Think Diesel Fuel Die would show up in the oil if they are mixing? Is there a way to get these dipsticks and tubes to work properly and show a nice clean oil level on these engines? My dealer is useless..

2013 CXU with MP7 W/Emulator installed. Getting a red tint to in the engine oil after 300 to 400 hrs. Power steering fluid on the truck is red but the level doesn't seem to be going down as if it's getting into the engine oil. I'm feeling like the PS Pump seal is likely cause here but just want to throw this out to see if there could be another cause that I'm not thinking of. Chevron 10-30 Semi Synth Engine oil. Thanks!

Delete or Emulator? Drunk Lab? AKZO Diesel? Truck Tool? Anyone with some thoughts or experience? I have 4 2010 MP8 CHU's deleted for 3 years...all is good but dealer service is a problem...have run into some issues with repairs requiring reflash. The company I used is no longer in business. I have more trucks that are in need of reliability through simplification of some sort. Im leaning toward an emulator but not sure who's to use. Would greatly appreciate any thoughts or experiences.

I have 16 24.5 aluminum 8 hole rims I’d like to get rid of. Hub pilot I think. I’ll look tomorow.

We've been putting 15-40 in our small fleet of MP8's. Purchased used. No decal stating otherwise and thought nothing of it. Purchased a VNL with D13 and sticker says 10-30. Research says synth due to added heat in newer engines. Is anyone running 15-40..is it a real issue? Is synth 5-40 an option...It would be more versatile oil for us to use. Thanks!

Turbo has to come off along with all the plumbing to it. requires a kit to seal it back on don't remember if that comes with the EGR Cooler kit or not. The cooler kit is expensive. coolant plumbing and egr plumbing has to come off. requires parts to seal them back on. You can do it yourself before lunch once you've done it once and you have the parts and you don't break or have to fight with turbo bolts. If they replaced the cooler 3000 is fair unless if you don't want to do it for the 1000 labor on the table. I think there is about 2000 worth of parts to change it. If they didn't change the cooler 3000 is ridiculous. If they didn't change it i believe they should have or could have tested it both visually and with tools for leaks before it is removed. I saw a post on here where a member changed the cooler by lifting the front of the engine to clear the frame rail. I believe he said it went well. That would eliminate the unfastening of the turbo and plumbing. I suspect the fan blade would have to be removed. The blade on the viscous fan is kind of a pain to remove and install. Not sure which is easier. If turbo bolts could not be made to turn I would look into that option.

I will check the sterling. It’s C15. I didn’t realize this. Thought it took “atmosphere” psi air for intake. I’d say the whole systems are average. Maybe a bit slower to fully build up than other tractors we’ve had. Much slower to the tires and slower with shop air at the governer. I haven’t been able to identify the compressor but they are single piston. The tires are deflated to 25-35 lbs empty to loaded in the mud and pumped up to 95 lbs for the speed on the road each load out of the field. 1 load/hr 24 hrs during harvest. It’s the airing up slow with shop air that’s got me puzzled and not wanting to point at the onboard compressors.

Leaking and it's expensive. Mack parts guy didn't find a gasket kit for it and new one is stupid costly. Looks like oil engine oil turns the turbine.

Anyone know if i can delete this component? I suspect the crankcase pressure is somewhat regulated by the resistance required to spin the diffuser. Can I hose the valve cover vent to atmosphere and put a plate over the hole in the block where the diffuser mounts? Thanks!

Thanks 41Chevy

Anyone know the series or manufacture information for pins mack part number 85109656? Replacing pins in the delphi housing in the harness where it branches out before the MCFC connector. I can get the pins for small gauge wires from my dealer but they don't have the pins to crimp to the larger wires. I thought they where Delphi 150 series but my bags of pins showed up and that series is close but smaller. I don't know the delphi connectors mack name but the control for the wipers runs through it. >PA6-GB20 GF10< is molded into the connector housing. Thanks

I have 4 2010 CHU613. MP8. I have installed Tire Boss central tire inflation on all 4. All 4 tractors are very slow to inflate the 8 tires up to highway speed pressures. I have the same system on a sterling with 3406B and had them on Pete's with 3306's. The mack/volvo setup is much slower. It's all 4 units so I don't think I have bad compressors. Are the volvo compressors typically lower CFM than the rest of the industry? Could there be something choking flow or creating pressure in the plumbing? Tire boss is plumbed dirrectly into the bottom (wet?) tank. It looks like flow from the compressor goes to the air dryer and directly to that tank. Is it a difference in the air dryer setup? I have noticed that the tractors are slow to air up when we hook shop air to the governor on the firewall. They air up but not like the other tractors we have.. All 4 CHU's are twins and all air up the same way. There are no significant air leaks. There are a couple at the firewall pass through connectors that we can't seem to completely eliminate but they are very minor. Thanks!

Resolved....The Deutch connector at the firewall (MC??) had threads smeared when it was removed. It did not install together properly as the jack screw did not pull the Deutch connector together all the way. Repaired with tap and die. The molded nut in the deutch connector on the firewall side will spin in its molded housing. Looks like a "be careful spot" Thanks again Challenger!

Resolved....The Deutch connector at the firewall (MC??) had threads smeared when it was removed. It did not install together properly as the jack screw did not pull the Deutch connector together all the way. Repaired with tap and die. The molded nut in the deutch connector on the firewall side will spin in its molded housing. Looks like a "be careful spot" Thanks again Challenger!

Thanks challenger. I’ve taken it apart examined it out it back together. I’ve checked main power relays and all the fuses in both the BEC and the EPDM. I’ve swapped the VECU into another truck to check it out. Everything if ok. I hane not swaped ECM. Unsure if that could be the culprit. I feel like it’s in that MC?? Harness through the firewall but not sure how to prove or test it.