Freightrain

Well, I think most of the problem will be fixed with the new fitting. The new design(machined brass) is much flatter across the top compared to the old forged unit. It's over 1/16" shorter to begin with so touching should not be a problem, but I also ran a tap 3/4 turn farther into head so the fitting will go 1 turn farther into compressor thus giving me a whole 1/8" more clearance. I'll be finishing it up this evening so we'll see if I find anything else.

I used to be into CB's. Friend growing up had a nice Cobra 139 wired up with VFO, turner side kick mic, Varmint 850 linear, Moonraker 4 beams. We used to talk everywhere on that thing all night long. I still have my 70's Realistic Navaho base(slightly warmed up) which just died a couple weeks ago. Too expensive to fix so I need to find something new for the house. Got a couple Unidens in other vehicles that are warmed over(20-40 watts). Picked up an old Realistic "phone" style CB for the B model. It's warmed over too(running about 45 watts), and with the headset I figure I might be able to actually HEAR what someone is saying (plus back in the day I though they were cool cause only rich people had car phones-back in the late 70's).

Well, over the last few months I've noticed a slight coolant drip on passenger side. I traced it down to the air compressor and finally got a few days to tear it down as I've been traveling with it alot now that racing season started. I knew it was either the head gasket or the brass fitting coming out the front side(nearest inj pump). Sunday morning I got up and decided to get motivated. I pulled the passenger fender off since the last time I pulled it off to get rebuilt the fenders weren't painted and I didn't have to worry about beating them up. Once I got everthing laying in the yard I started on the pump, and once I got it loose I realized what was really wrong. That front 90 elbow(for water) was actually just touching the bolts on back side of govenor housing and apparently over the last 4 yrs cracked the brass elbow(around the threads). Great. Now I need to find another very compact 90 elbow to replace it with. Hopefully my local Mack dealer might have something on the shelf or I'll have to hit the hydraulic joint. I need to get this fixed up by Thurs night because I head out Fri for another race. I was actually thinking of putting this off another week, but with finding the crack I'm glad I didn't because the drip was getting worse then it was a couple weeks ago and I've put a couple trips to southern Ohio on it since. Sure wish they would have come up with a better design than this, cause it's a real beach getting this thing in/out especially to just fix ONE fitting(that of course is broke because of it's location). Ain't life grand.

Well, the "differential ratio" is the gear ratio in your rearend(s). Something like 3.90's or 4.62 or whatever. It's the ratio of input to output: meaning it takes 3.90 turns of the driveshaft to get 1 turn at the tires. Pretty simple. As for what ratio you have? I see you have an R model Usually most are stamped somewhere around the "pumkin" or "chunk" (the part that bolts into the rear end housing). Two stick trucks. The only reason was MORE GEARING. Back in the early days low powered motors needed alot of gears to get a load moving and since the technology was not around to make it automated(air controlled) you had to have two sticks and do it yourself. Once the air controlled tranny's came around the two stick trucks became obsolete. You could now have a transmission with one stick with 1 or 2 air controls on it that did the "split" shifting for you. Some guys are 'old school" and like their two stick trucks, alot of guys don't. It's all a matter of personal taste. You mention your truck only has 5 speeds, that is because the motor doesn't need anymore to be able to do the job. The newer Mack motors have a lot wider rpm power band then the older ones did, thus you don't need alot of gears. Back in the 60's, the power band was 1500-2100, but with todays motors, it's 1100 to 2100. That extra 400 rpm makes alot of difference in the need for gears.

Not sure, but I'd say Watt's has most all them listed in the B model store. I'd say you could probably order most of this stuff through most any dealer.......but what Barry has done is make it easier because alot of dealerships don't want the hassle of dealing with this old stuff. I think Barry has also done a tremedous amount of leg work to get alot of parts re-made since they have the customer base to move it. Am I close Barry?

Yup, need to start skipping gears like Packer mentioned. I rarely get myself in that problem, but have a few times in the past and it gets to be a real scramble to get a gear to keep some kind of speed. It will catch you off guard as a hill will just start increasing grade without you realizing it. In the past, with my triplex, I'll dowshift the compound to Under, as I run out of speed, I'll upshift the compound to Direct, then downshift the main. Then if that runs out too quick, you can at least drop one more in the compound quickly. That's the "fun" of two sticks LOL!! ya, right. Just yesterday for the first time in 5 yrs I got both sticks in Neutral and couldn't for the life of me get one back in. All the trying in the world left me powerless. I finally gave up and pulled over(lucky no traffic and 4 lane road). The few times I've done this I have always got one back in and continued, but for some reason I was just off enough to not catch it. I had just about stopped for a red light when it changed, and had already pulled the compound out to downshift and I popped the main out too....oops! Rollin along with no gears at home LOL! I was only running maybe 20 mph.

Most 1 ton guys that have this problem leave the nuts a touch loose, then drive truck in circles to break it loose. Our F450 was a mudd'r the first time we had to change a tire! After a few winter season those duals were welded to the hub.

Congrats on the purchase. Looks pretty good for the money. Seems those ol Cummins have fuel issues when they sit around too much(well any diesel for that matter). Usually something simple, just have to figure it out. Good luck with it.

Just ONE! You can always use more, but when your actions are controlled under the Nazi Republic of Lake Township..............

flyinfarmer440, once you download the pictures from your camera INTO your computer, it's a pretty simple operation to get them into this forum. Do you have the cable to hook camera to computer?

They're still there John. Maybe something to do with your internet explorer? All you get is red X's?

That sounds like the perfect set up Paul. I'd like to find one of those sitting in my back yard someday!!

The only real difference between Triplex Double over and Quad Double over is the fact you lose some of the first gear ratio in a triplex d/o. If you plan on pulling heavy, getting started will be a bit harder since first is not as deep. Not a problem for a hobby truck. Paul, I'm around 26K lbs fulling loaded. I can run about 62 or so flat out. It's pretty hilly around here and not many places I'm not just holding it on the floor to keep it up to speed. I think I have enough HP to pull it with more O/D, but maybe only on level ground? Like I mentioned, if I can't use D/O all the time it will make it a bit nicer when I can. Somehow I'd like to get a ENDT673C someday to up the juice a bit. Someday.

Seems there isn't.........if I recall. Maybe I haven't looked in the right place. There is an inspection hole, but I don't think there is room for anything in there to turn flywheel.

Anyone have a line on someone who builds the black pleated version for a B? My original carboard is getting pretty used up and outta shape. I'd like to have the door panels made up too. Easy way to dress up the inside without painting.

The only size difference between tri and quad would be the rear box. The quad would be a shade bit longer with the extra gear ratio. The front boxes should be the same size. I was looking at a quad box to put in mine and I seem to recall measuring the differences between my triplex and the quad. It's been a couple years and I can't say I recall the actual numbers. I have an extra driveshaft, so I was going to have it shortened so that I still have the triplex shaft if I ever needed it. I've wanted to add some road speed to mine, but just haven't got around to it. I have 4.62 with single over. Gets me around 64 mph on the gov. Double over gets me about 8 mph, so I can cruise at 60-65 about 1700 rpm or so. Pulling my trailer might be a bit much, but I can always just keep it outta double over on hilly terrain.

I'm already having problems getting vid dowloaded into my computer. Won't do it at home OR work. Stupid computers! I'll keep tryin.

I don't have any pics of his R model. Here's the B. Ya, Trent. I got in a closed the door and just kinda went...............Ohhhhhhhhhhhh, ya! Then I got it cranked up and really wanted to get out cruise it.

Ok, Stan Leman wanted me to post these pics of his lastest creation. I got first hand look today at Lakeside Sand and Gravel open house. Stan is known around here for his VERY nice trucks, all green, ALL MACK! He has a B model, an R model and now this Super! It came from Sidley(concrete company around here) and was pretty rough when brought home. He stripped it to nothing but bags of bolts and put it back together. Original E9 500 hp V8 Mack with 12 spd tranny, Neway air ride. Supposedly never rebuilt, low miles motor but Stan had the pump tweaked a bit and added the cooler. It's nothing but astounding to look at in person, even better to hear RUN!!! As I was poking around taking pictures Stan took me to crank it up and make some NOISE!! Alrighty then!! I tried to get a test drive, but I guess Stan wanted to get it dirty first? I've got about 24 seconds worth of video that I'll be getting put on Youtube in the near future(as soon I try to get it downloaded). I kept telling Stan that if he EVER needs a driver to get that special load delivered right now........I'll be GLAD to run up and take'r out on the big road. He plans to start using this daily in the next few weeks. (you'll see Stan in the bottom pictures standing with his back to camera........ya, he wears matching green shirts too)

Funny..........I haven't heard from anyone about when they are going to come pick my truck up?? LOL!!!! Ya, I hope they do a resto NOT a pimpmyride version.

Pretty popular on Ebay right now. Couple guys have been advertising them. I was going with the old plastic bottle off something until these came up. Thought it would fit the part better than a plastic bottle My '67 F100 has same type bag on it. I was thinking of duplicating the sheetmetal bracket to hang on B, but the stainless hooks were simplier . Not quite as "factory looking"........but then again WHO CARES?

Aw shoot Barry, forgot all about adding it here. My bad. Bought a Mack bag off Ebay for $20, went to Azone and got a set of squirters(with white LED's), some rubber line, Radio shack had button. A few days(over 2 wk time period) and it was all installed and working. Now I have windshield squirters to clean the bugs off or just get rid of the dirt smears. Nice/simple upgrade. Herb, that's an AWESOME Chevelle. I'm a true blue Ford guy, but anything 60's muscle is cool stuff. It's got all the neato 70's hot rod parts in it(cragars, ladderbars, 4 spd, etc). I'm lost in the 70's when it comes to cars(and trucks). The new crap don't do anything for me(like Codington or Foose) with their 30" wheels and rubber band tires. JUNK!!! All flash! I still have the Chevy mag that I got the idea to build my blower car from. It had a 62 Bel air with 409/blown that was Ragoon red, black pleated interior, cragars. That was early 80's(like 81). I like those full size cars, but since I turned Ford I had to do a Galaxie. I'm still thinking of installing a straight axle, but want to find another frame since mine is all restored(rebuilt) and don't want to cut it up. Hot Rod mag did a thing on straight axle cars about a year back and that just made me want to do it even more. Someday.

Oops.........Hot-rod it once................LOL!

There is a fellow in Ohio that bought a LTL that had a big Cummins and a quad box in it. Ya, talk about overpowered, but like HK says, it's all in the driver. Keep the power level smooth and it will survive. Hotrod it once and ya it'll come apart real quick.

Ya, I have a full set of vids from Lindsey.