Freightrain

It's too bad it rubbed you all wrong Scott. The ATHS board has alot of great information just for the asking! Yes, you have to put up with the occasional smart azz comment.......we've all learned to take them/say them in jest. It's the internet and you have to have thick skin sometimes as not everyone is prim/proper. Sarcasm can be dished out pretty readily, so you have to learn to take it. I guess I'm too used to that type of talk only cause I drive a FORD and have friends that drive Chevys, Dodges and Pontiacs........and lord knows the crap get deep sometimes. Welcome to the internet..............You can't please everyone.

My floors were pretty rough in the corners below windshield(typical leak/rust problem). I cut the whole she-bang out and replaced it all. It was not as hard as you would think. I mimic'd the original using three panels, but I added an additional brace(1x1 sq tube) across front of seat mount area that I welded in at door sill area. I had a new lip channel bent to match where floor panel comes out, and welded that in first then put remaining floor in. Barring the missing lumps/ribs it looks pretty stock and with brace installed it's stout. Here is link to pics http://groups.msn.com/bigmacktrucks/larrysmack.msnw?Page=2 Now, if someone would just repop cabs LOL!!!!!!

The main tranny gets split by compound. 1st in main, lo, then direct, then OD, 2nd in main, lo, then direct, then OD, etc. Here's my short vid showing the basic procedure: http://fords.kilonet.org/freightrain/bride1.wmv

Got that right!! That'd be a great opportunity for sure.

My B had 10-20's on it, I put 11r22.5 Radials on it getting rid of the split rims.

Two bolts in the back center.

I think that would only pertain to paperwork or a single image on something like letterhead.

That era would likely be 6v(unless someone converted it to 12v). Positive ground was also likely.

.....drool....................................

Hey...Welcome aboard!

I personally did not put it there. A fellow from a Ford pickup site hosted it on his server(notice the link address I posted). Looks like someone must have downloaded it to YouTube? Here is second "two handed" version: Not sure how you got video link picture in your post?

www.longroadpro.com is the website for the Two stick videos. Ya, that's my old version. I did a new two handed version later. http://fords.kilonet.org/freightrain/bride1.wmv (wonder how it got on Youtube?) I was told by a fellow in southern Ohio that that video is quite well known? Who woodathunk

Longroadproduction.com something like that. I have it, watch it occassionally when it's cold/rainy and can't go for a spin. Lots of good stuff to watch...just wish I could forward thru the talking? But with the format it's in...you can't.

Ya, it's a single axle double reduction. Seems there is like two compartments, but only cause the upper ring/pinion get oil, then drips back to large bull gear area. Just seems odd that it now leaks out the vent so much?

Definitely. Sometimes I can leave one box in gear, which puts enough load on it to keep it somewhat quieter. You can't pull one out of gear with any load on it for the most part, unless the gear teeth itself is worn bad enough to allow it. The torque holds it tight.

WOW!!! You were lucky there. I think you'll fare even better in the Mack next time something like that happens. Not that I would put that on anyone..... BTW...Nice rig! Oh, I suppose you tell everyone that asks........."Ya, I had a crappy day" LOL!

Can't recall if I've pulled the sight level plug out of rear. Might have? Why would it blow it out the top of the vent plug if it had just a bit too much? Think it would be leaking at the axle long before it ever got to the vent cap?

Aussie's sure do know how to make a truck LOOK like a truck don't they? LOL!

I put a new pinion seal in my rear..now it does puke out the vent cap? Actually the pinion nut was loose one notch, so it leaked(cause the bearings were loose). I put a new seal and tightened it up again. No leaks there, but the vent has constant stream coming from it.

It shifts nice overall, no issues there, but when hot and idling in neutral it sounds like a bunch of rocks bang'n around in it. They say with the wrong oil in it, it will not get proper lubrication. Well, I think it definitely hasn't hurt mine since it was so worn out to begin with!

With all this talk about boxes, I'm starting to wonder what I put in mine like 5 yrs ago. I know I put 2 gals of Lucas additive to help with the rattl'n noise, but not sure what actual fluid I used? Might have been 75w gear lube? Can't recall now. Guess it don't really matter since I've put 20K+ miles on it with no issues(don't even really leak-just grumbles bad when hot).

Ok...I know nothing, but........ Didn't the bellhousing place the starter location? So if it had a later model bell/tranny then it would be left hand? Seems that's the story I hear when guys put in 237's or such that starter is on Drivers side? So if you use the bell from 673, it would keep it on pass. side? Just think'n?

Barry lists a cartridge type canister for B models on B model store parts page. 150 Dry Element Air Cleaner (Looks Like Oil Bath) $320.00 ea

When I got my B, it had all bias. Turning at slow speed was TORTURE, sitting still was impossible. With my radials it will turn near lock to lock sitting still.

If truck was over at 45degrees, then I would be it ran dry for a spell, then the quick shut down did not allow the turbo to cool thus possibly creating issues with dry bearings in it. It then was re-started by you and ran til the issues surfaced and completed its damage. Just a thought....