Freightrain

I would assume you can get the clutch parts pretty easily. The thickness of the disc should be available too. Though if I was going thru all this I would put all new in it anyway. I'd remove the flywheel and have it ground, and see how it cleans up. As long as the cracks aren't deep, I wouldn't worry too much. Should be able to grind most of them out.

I'll see if I can find the Napa numbers for oil and fuel filters. That is what I run in mine. The only issue I found with my fuel filter canister was the gasket on fitting(outside). Been off too many times, and then you couldn't tighten it enough to seal. Ended up dismantling the center fitting and installing new gasket I had in box of parts that came with my truck.

The bolts will come out of alt. bracket. I'll look, but if you bust it up getting it apart I have a couple gens and brackets laying around.

Ya, mines a single over triplex, though not a lightweight version(only a TRT). You can split all the gears right up to the big hole!

I think the a/c unit was one of the aftermarket car units (Vintage Air?). Overall the truck looks tasteful on the outside, the blue interior of the sleeper has gotta GO! The train is a waste, but they say it's a local truck so they don't need the sleeper anymore. The hoodscoop was a FORD superduty unit(from back in the 70's). I've got one on my '69 F100. Kinda unique to use it, and wonder if it's for the tip turbine? Never did know what motor was in it? It's not a 673 for sure.

I have one of those pumps that hooks to the gen(have the star bushing too). I've thought of selling it off, but never really pushed it. Don't know the actual condition though looks nice. Once I got radials put on my B, it steers really nice(even stopped). Not quite "power", but compared to the bias plies it's heaven!

The 12v system is only the alternator and starter, which will not really fix any wiring issues you have with things not working. It's a pretty simple operation to change those two things over, though will hit your pocket book pretty hard. Sounds like maybe your series/parallel switch is not working if you can't get it to crank. What's the condition of all the cables? batteries?

http://www.marinepartsunlimited.com/ Art will help you out. He's the go to guy around here for air wipers He has alot of old books, schematics, parts(new, old , NOS)

DOH!! I hope that you either have another cab or this one is salvagable. Sounds like you might have to let the air outta the seat for you to fit now? or stop wearing hats? LOL!

In typical Jerry fashion...............another OUTSTANDING job!!! Sitting next to his black Autocar...it's simply a stunning pair!

Nice find! Looks really solid, and ready for another 50 yrs of haulin'

Ya Barry. I noticed that too. It's got a B7x nose on it with 61 badges. Wonder where that nice chrome sheel went?

Not bad. They could have done worse LOL! I'm not much into purple, but it looks pretty tastefully done. Have to agree, there was not much wrong with the truck to begin with. Compared to the way they present the late model stuff(ducktape holding stuff together), that truck was pristine!

Thats WOOD!! WOW!!!!!! Very, very nice job. True craftsman.

Here is a shot of the bottom of my race motor. I usually put a dab of silicone on the washers before putting side bolts in. These motors use spacers to make up the space between block and cap. I just wondered as the spacer MIGHT fall out if you pull bolt out. It shouldn't but if it's a loose enough fit it might drop enough to not get bolt back in. When putting it together you torque mains, then install side bolts and pull down to 42lb/ft. I've never seen the bottom of a V8 Mack so I was curious.

Like on an FE Ford, the cross bolts can be removed and re-installed without fuss as they are put in last anyway and don't affect main bolt torque. Does the Mack have spacers? Or does the cap come right over to the side of block?

Nice job! Looks good.

650 miles/38 mph= 17 hrs. Shoot, that won't be too long of a trip LOL!! Pretty nice unit Mark. Looks to have a jib crane on it too? That would be handy!

Once it gets some fuel spilled on it....it will blend right in LOL!!

You'd be better off finding a "car" type aftermarket tach and just wire it to the coil. Much simplier and more accurate.

Neat story. I've been after the previous owner of my B to get me pictures and some story behind it. Since he has now sold off the business he's on to semi-retirement and I don't get to see him much. I still bug him whenever I run into him. Someday......

Cool stuff! I put my ol B in the Stow/Kent parade on the 4th. I was the banner carrier for ATHS(hung on the front bumper). It was quite a hit, as alot of "how old is it?" coming from the crowd as we passed. 'Bout wore the horn chain out too LOL!! Funny how kids and grow up alike were either happy to hear the horn or absolutely terrified from it(holding their ears).

I run a 4" Dynomax "race" straight thru type muffler under the cab of my B. It just takes the harsh bark out of it. I run twin 4" stacks and it's bad enough inside the cab as it is. With the windows rolled up you can talk with the passenger, windows down it's pretty tough(though livable). The larger the stack the more resonance you'll get inside. I used to have one 5" pipe and it was utterly unbearable. The smaller 4" pipe tunes it down.

Well, I think most of the problem will be fixed with the new fitting. The new design(machined brass) is much flatter across the top compared to the old forged unit. It's over 1/16" shorter to begin with so touching should not be a problem, but I also ran a tap 3/4 turn farther into head so the fitting will go 1 turn farther into compressor thus giving me a whole 1/8" more clearance. I'll be finishing it up this evening so we'll see if I find anything else.

I used to be into CB's. Friend growing up had a nice Cobra 139 wired up with VFO, turner side kick mic, Varmint 850 linear, Moonraker 4 beams. We used to talk everywhere on that thing all night long. I still have my 70's Realistic Navaho base(slightly warmed up) which just died a couple weeks ago. Too expensive to fix so I need to find something new for the house. Got a couple Unidens in other vehicles that are warmed over(20-40 watts). Picked up an old Realistic "phone" style CB for the B model. It's warmed over too(running about 45 watts), and with the headset I figure I might be able to actually HEAR what someone is saying (plus back in the day I though they were cool cause only rich people had car phones-back in the late 70's).