Freightrain

Ya, mines a single over triplex, though not a lightweight version(only a TRT). You can split all the gears right up to the big hole!

I think the a/c unit was one of the aftermarket car units (Vintage Air?). Overall the truck looks tasteful on the outside, the blue interior of the sleeper has gotta GO! The train is a waste, but they say it's a local truck so they don't need the sleeper anymore. The hoodscoop was a FORD superduty unit(from back in the 70's). I've got one on my '69 F100. Kinda unique to use it, and wonder if it's for the tip turbine? Never did know what motor was in it? It's not a 673 for sure.

I have one of those pumps that hooks to the gen(have the star bushing too). I've thought of selling it off, but never really pushed it. Don't know the actual condition though looks nice. Once I got radials put on my B, it steers really nice(even stopped). Not quite "power", but compared to the bias plies it's heaven!

The 12v system is only the alternator and starter, which will not really fix any wiring issues you have with things not working. It's a pretty simple operation to change those two things over, though will hit your pocket book pretty hard. Sounds like maybe your series/parallel switch is not working if you can't get it to crank. What's the condition of all the cables? batteries?

http://www.marinepartsunlimited.com/ Art will help you out. He's the go to guy around here for air wipers He has alot of old books, schematics, parts(new, old , NOS)

DOH!! I hope that you either have another cab or this one is salvagable. Sounds like you might have to let the air outta the seat for you to fit now? or stop wearing hats? LOL!

In typical Jerry fashion...............another OUTSTANDING job!!! Sitting next to his black Autocar...it's simply a stunning pair!

Nice find! Looks really solid, and ready for another 50 yrs of haulin'

Ya Barry. I noticed that too. It's got a B7x nose on it with 61 badges. Wonder where that nice chrome sheel went?

Not bad. They could have done worse LOL! I'm not much into purple, but it looks pretty tastefully done. Have to agree, there was not much wrong with the truck to begin with. Compared to the way they present the late model stuff(ducktape holding stuff together), that truck was pristine!

Thats WOOD!! WOW!!!!!! Very, very nice job. True craftsman.

Here is a shot of the bottom of my race motor. I usually put a dab of silicone on the washers before putting side bolts in. These motors use spacers to make up the space between block and cap. I just wondered as the spacer MIGHT fall out if you pull bolt out. It shouldn't but if it's a loose enough fit it might drop enough to not get bolt back in. When putting it together you torque mains, then install side bolts and pull down to 42lb/ft. I've never seen the bottom of a V8 Mack so I was curious.

Like on an FE Ford, the cross bolts can be removed and re-installed without fuss as they are put in last anyway and don't affect main bolt torque. Does the Mack have spacers? Or does the cap come right over to the side of block?

Nice job! Looks good.

650 miles/38 mph= 17 hrs. Shoot, that won't be too long of a trip LOL!! Pretty nice unit Mark. Looks to have a jib crane on it too? That would be handy!

Once it gets some fuel spilled on it....it will blend right in LOL!!

You'd be better off finding a "car" type aftermarket tach and just wire it to the coil. Much simplier and more accurate.

Neat story. I've been after the previous owner of my B to get me pictures and some story behind it. Since he has now sold off the business he's on to semi-retirement and I don't get to see him much. I still bug him whenever I run into him. Someday......

Cool stuff! I put my ol B in the Stow/Kent parade on the 4th. I was the banner carrier for ATHS(hung on the front bumper). It was quite a hit, as alot of "how old is it?" coming from the crowd as we passed. 'Bout wore the horn chain out too LOL!! Funny how kids and grow up alike were either happy to hear the horn or absolutely terrified from it(holding their ears).

I run a 4" Dynomax "race" straight thru type muffler under the cab of my B. It just takes the harsh bark out of it. I run twin 4" stacks and it's bad enough inside the cab as it is. With the windows rolled up you can talk with the passenger, windows down it's pretty tough(though livable). The larger the stack the more resonance you'll get inside. I used to have one 5" pipe and it was utterly unbearable. The smaller 4" pipe tunes it down.

Well, I think most of the problem will be fixed with the new fitting. The new design(machined brass) is much flatter across the top compared to the old forged unit. It's over 1/16" shorter to begin with so touching should not be a problem, but I also ran a tap 3/4 turn farther into head so the fitting will go 1 turn farther into compressor thus giving me a whole 1/8" more clearance. I'll be finishing it up this evening so we'll see if I find anything else.

I used to be into CB's. Friend growing up had a nice Cobra 139 wired up with VFO, turner side kick mic, Varmint 850 linear, Moonraker 4 beams. We used to talk everywhere on that thing all night long. I still have my 70's Realistic Navaho base(slightly warmed up) which just died a couple weeks ago. Too expensive to fix so I need to find something new for the house. Got a couple Unidens in other vehicles that are warmed over(20-40 watts). Picked up an old Realistic "phone" style CB for the B model. It's warmed over too(running about 45 watts), and with the headset I figure I might be able to actually HEAR what someone is saying (plus back in the day I though they were cool cause only rich people had car phones-back in the late 70's).

Well, over the last few months I've noticed a slight coolant drip on passenger side. I traced it down to the air compressor and finally got a few days to tear it down as I've been traveling with it alot now that racing season started. I knew it was either the head gasket or the brass fitting coming out the front side(nearest inj pump). Sunday morning I got up and decided to get motivated. I pulled the passenger fender off since the last time I pulled it off to get rebuilt the fenders weren't painted and I didn't have to worry about beating them up. Once I got everthing laying in the yard I started on the pump, and once I got it loose I realized what was really wrong. That front 90 elbow(for water) was actually just touching the bolts on back side of govenor housing and apparently over the last 4 yrs cracked the brass elbow(around the threads). Great. Now I need to find another very compact 90 elbow to replace it with. Hopefully my local Mack dealer might have something on the shelf or I'll have to hit the hydraulic joint. I need to get this fixed up by Thurs night because I head out Fri for another race. I was actually thinking of putting this off another week, but with finding the crack I'm glad I didn't because the drip was getting worse then it was a couple weeks ago and I've put a couple trips to southern Ohio on it since. Sure wish they would have come up with a better design than this, cause it's a real beach getting this thing in/out especially to just fix ONE fitting(that of course is broke because of it's location). Ain't life grand.

Well, the "differential ratio" is the gear ratio in your rearend(s). Something like 3.90's or 4.62 or whatever. It's the ratio of input to output: meaning it takes 3.90 turns of the driveshaft to get 1 turn at the tires. Pretty simple. As for what ratio you have? I see you have an R model Usually most are stamped somewhere around the "pumkin" or "chunk" (the part that bolts into the rear end housing). Two stick trucks. The only reason was MORE GEARING. Back in the early days low powered motors needed alot of gears to get a load moving and since the technology was not around to make it automated(air controlled) you had to have two sticks and do it yourself. Once the air controlled tranny's came around the two stick trucks became obsolete. You could now have a transmission with one stick with 1 or 2 air controls on it that did the "split" shifting for you. Some guys are 'old school" and like their two stick trucks, alot of guys don't. It's all a matter of personal taste. You mention your truck only has 5 speeds, that is because the motor doesn't need anymore to be able to do the job. The newer Mack motors have a lot wider rpm power band then the older ones did, thus you don't need alot of gears. Back in the 60's, the power band was 1500-2100, but with todays motors, it's 1100 to 2100. That extra 400 rpm makes alot of difference in the need for gears.

Not sure, but I'd say Watt's has most all them listed in the B model store. I'd say you could probably order most of this stuff through most any dealer.......but what Barry has done is make it easier because alot of dealerships don't want the hassle of dealing with this old stuff. I think Barry has also done a tremedous amount of leg work to get alot of parts re-made since they have the customer base to move it. Am I close Barry?