Freightrain

Sounds like Dennis. Never dealt with the fellow, but he deals in B model stuff. check out www.oldmacks.com

Welcome aboard Steve. Hope you have fun with your new "toy".

So I should fill the filter to the top, instead of just the 3 gal I put in first time. I don't think I can crank it enough to bleed it now? or should I? That is why I never let mine fire right off, especially after sitting a week or so. I let it crank a few, then give it some throttle to kick it off. Dave, I've run Rotella 15w-40 in mine for 7 yrs now and it's fine. Pulls 55psi running down the road, about 15-20 at hot idle. Doesn't burn hardly a drop all summer.

I've always wondered if the full flow would "fill up" after you got it running? I've loosened the fill cap and nothing there, though never left if off for long. Maybe I should? My dipstick was kinda screwy, so I remarked it after I put 3 gal in it(as full), then put 3 gal in filter. After a week or so sitting, it usually drains a bit back into pan and shows a bit overfull. I recheck after running a bit and it's at the full mark on stick. I pulled out one of my original operator manuals and it says 15qt cap. So, just under 4 gal in pan, then I need to fill filter housing too? BTW, ya I run Rotella 15w40 in mine.

Interesting Glenn....I was told it held 24qt(6gal), so that's what I've always put in mine, which has fullflow filter in it. I've put 3 in the pan and 3 in the filter and started it. I've never heard of the "bleeding", but maybe that is why mine always takes a 5-8 secs to get oil pressure when I start it? This being my 7th year running it, it's never had any issues, but strange to hear this new information.

I think the real issue was working them too hard and they had faults(like most anything else). For a toy, it should be fine.

She's a biggie!

For once a weekend..........I'm not too worried about the noise. Heck...ya ever hear my truck at full sing on the highway? HUH?? WHAT??? CAN'T HEAR YA....... The starter is the LEAST of my worries LOL!

Wow...this is starting to sound scary. I knew that it took ALOT of air, but I was hoping that I could daisy chain some tanks, but with what you guys are saying(and I understand) that the pipes have to be large enough to not restrict anything, plus more headaches and possible leaks. With my little short WB, adding anything is near impossible, especially behind the cab as trailer would swing and hit it. I suppose if I removed the battery boxes, I could add a 40 gal tank(looka like to fuel tank) and that would suffice? Have to do some soul searching and alot of brainstorming before I dig into this too far I guess. I suppose the best bet would be find a truck and get the set up off it. All known and working. Thanks guys.

Sign up for www.photobucket.com. It's simple and free(don't let them convince you that you have to pay to upgrade anything). You can then download as many pictures as you like then you can post the link to them from here. It's a common thing to do it that way as most of these boards don't have the storage space for alot of pictures(especially large ones). Looks great, and hope to see more pictures.

I think the single intake version is 170 hp, and the split model is 187 hp(something to that effect). I've been told that mine runs pretty well, and I guess that's the reason?

Glenn, I was poking around on I-R site and saw the "lubricated' versions. I realize I would be best off to make sure to get the right starter(and check engagement) to make sure it would fully engage properly as to not eat up the ring gear. The air tank would be the biggest issue, as I was hoping to make room on the truck...not fill up MORE space LOL! Had thoughts of daisy chaining a few smaller round tanks(std issue stuff), and hang them under frame. I could hang two on each side of truck, one set where batteries were, and one set behind my diesel genset on drivers side. I know the more the better, but would have to work that out before going too far with it. Running out of air would be a bad thing with this set up, as usually where I go....there AREN'T more trucks to use as "air chargers". I would definitely have air system totally separate from rest of truck, using a one way valve to charge. Maybe even a extra electric soleniod to shut if off while truck is off? Double reduntant? Something to think about. Think about it though. 15 secs of air is still quite a long time. Even after sitting in the garage all week, it doesn't take 5 secs to get starter. Sometimes I let it crank a few times just to get oil circulating before I let it fire off. With air, I guess I'd just hold the pedal(feed it fuel) and let it start. It's always been a good running engine and starts in single digits with NO ether! (tried and tested). Sure not with air starter, but won't be an issue now. Guess I need to poke around and find a starter first, then some tanks. Long term project for next winter? Flynpig: Ya, I'm familiar with Optima batteries. Nice, but I am not into the big price tags for what it is. I still run regular battery in my race car with no issues. I usually change it every few years and rotate it into one of my other hot rods. I still run (4) 12v batteries in the Mack (which is way overkill for it), but it will darn near run down the road on the starter. They are still in good shape, but I'm sure they are nearing their lifetime quota that is why I'm thinking changing over. Thanks for all the input guys.

Mine sits in the garage ALL winter, so cold is not an issue. Ya, as for noisy? I'll keep a "small" muffler on it LOL!!! Ok, for the big question: Do you use a soleniod valve to actuate the starter(using button on dash), or do you have a large foot valve in floor(or someplace)?

Ok.......stupid idea.........but would be cool to have. My question is how difficult would it be to switch mine over to air(from electric). Besides getting starter, some plumbing, and a large air tank. I've got about 6 yrs on the batteries and I'm sure they'll be coming due for replacement. I could sell off the electric stuff and put air on it instead. Stupid idea, right. How "undependable" would it be? I have air supply at home to keep it charged up, but on the road how bad could it be? Don't usually have long stays away from home(day or so). I suppose if I had problems I could use a tire to charge tank if it leaked down. Anyone have some parts for sale that I could start piecing it together?

Sounds like a neat truck. Would love to have an AIR starter on mine! Way cool. If you can locate the engine number on the front of accy drive(pass. side), front of motor, that will tell you alot about the engine. Does it have SPLIT intake manifold(two pcs, one for each head)? That's the hopped up version of 673. Be sure to add your serial number to the B model registry(find link on front page of forums). Serial number will be on Pass. frame rail behind front spring perch. Compare this to what is on title, as it could be mis-matched(like mine). It will be "B61Txxxxxx" in about 1/2" stamped letters.

Friend ran it on his '97 F350 Powerstroke. It really helped on the long hills, as he pulled 50' race trailer. Stan Walls put some on his 673 in his B model, though it didn't really help much. I think the right volume would have alot to do with it, and not sure what he used to regulate it(something off a pickup type hook up I think). Might not have been big enough?

Ya, depending on what kind of mounting plate you have. If you only have side rails, it won't be bad. Mine has 3/4" plate that it's mounted too. Makes it really heavy! I did notice a ride difference after putting it back on!

Well, I used my engine crane to pull it off. You can slide it around on the pavement, sorta, but not pick it up. They aren't light at all! I've since put it back on truck and converted my trailer to pin style coupler.

Here are the pics to what I've done to mine. http://groups.msn.com/bigmacktrucks/larrysmack.msnw Worked out pretty simple and much sturdier then originally. Looks pretty original after painting it black too(just missing the "ribs", but since I added 1x1 sq. tubing under floor, ribs weren't needed anyway.

How did you wire the plug? Did you install a different 5,6,7 pin out back? Sounds like you might have something crossed up(if it's 7 pin, did you wire in the contant hot?), this could be backfeeding to brakelight switch? I suppose this happens with NO trailer hooked up? Another question: is this an air/elec unit? or plain electronic unit like used in pickups? My air/elec unit has an adjustment for "power level". If you adjust it up too far, it will leave the brake lights on. I ended up disconnecting that wire, as it was there so "IF" you actuated the brakes by the unit only, it would operate the brake lights. Safety gizmo I suppose? I was not worried about it.

Pretty neat looking R!

Build the building as LARGE as you can afford now. Square footage is the main thing, as all the add-ons can come later(floor, ceilings, power, heat, etc). Make sure you get it built tall enough to fit anything you happen to get. Big trucks and 10ft doors don't match(ask me how I know this).

Unlike most other brands, Mack usually flairs their frames in the front to get the motor lower, giving a lower hood height.

Just another day at the shop Rob? LOL!! Glad to hear you got it running again....though with a loss of nerves with it. Got to love those primer pumps. I ran mine out in the street ONCE, lucky it's a neighborhood and not much traffic at midnight. Open the hood, pump a while, cranked it up. WHew! Note to self, don't let tank get below 1/4 and sit on downhill run. She will run dry!! How's the speedo stuff going?

Wow....how do they keep the tar off all that chrome? I only run my B up the highway and can't keep it that clean!!