Freightrain

Ya, I poke around on occasion, but not very often. Not much on there anymore. Most of the usual guys got banned when they started to frequent "other" sites LOL!! Whatever.....

Sounds like the spool valve is not working properly?? It controls fluid direction as you turn wheel. If it hangs up, it will cause loss of power. I'm no expert, but that seems the issue at hand. Does it have power box or just power assist?

Hi Phillip. Recognize you from the ol Diesel Stop.....if that is you? Welcome to the Dog pound! Good luck on the test. It really isn't THAT hard, just have to read/study and follow the rules. I did mine all on my own also, with renting a truck for test.

I don't see pitting as a major issue, especially since it's a toy and won't see 80K lbs. As long as the pattern on them was still good, no howl, I think you're good to go.

I got 11r22.5's on it. With GPS and on the gov' it ran 65 mph. I usually with trailer run 1900 or so and it runs about 60 mph(so says buddy who usually follows me to/from racetrack with his pickup and trailer).

With single overdrive and 4.2 gears, 22" tires, you should get near 70 mph topped out on govenor. I get ~65 with 4.65 gears at 2100 rpm. Hope you get the shake fixed.

Hey Rod. From the information I've heard(and pretty much agree) is the lack of air flow thru the old oil bath units. With bigger power motors, you need more air into them, so getting the dry element unit is a definite upgrade. Did they still have oil bath with the C motor? I'm not up on what/when they quit oil bath.

Nope, I didn't put it there. Didn't actually know places like that existed til someone posted a link to it one day. I had a fellow from a Ford pickup site host it for me cause I didn't know there was places to do that. Guess people must have downloaded it and then put it on YouTube?

If I recall, all the cables did go to S/P switch, cause you need to mix/match them to get 12/24v, so the positives did not just go to the frame. Get the 12v starter, batteries and alt. Simple and much more effective starting system. Get 11r22.5 tires and matching rims, any truck shop will have what you need in stock. Common tire/rim combo. Order the whole set up at one time and bolt them on. Used rim will cost you about $50ea.(sandblasted/painted). Run the old oil bath. Unless someone can get you a dry type cheap. I still run mine with oil bath unit. Clean the pan, put a clean qt(something like that) of oil in it and drive it. Unless you put big motor in it, the old unit will work just fine.

Hey, flip the negatives back over LOL!!! What a nice piece. Sure wish there was stuff like that over here.

It depends on the OD in the tranny mostly. Single or double? .8, .7, .6?

It's a triplex. Ya, that's me doing the work in those two vids. The first version was one handed, then the following year I did the two handed version. I was bobtailing, so I skip along the gears usually. I needed to put the mic outside so you get the full effect of the almost straight pipes.

Neat find Scott. From what I hear, could be injectors on the 250? Diesels have unique problems that cause knocks, so it might not be terminal.

Yup, that be a slo-mo-chine LOL!! Sounds like you have a single overdrive Triplex. Look on drivers side of tranny for numbers. Should read like: TRT722. The double overs were TRT7220(as the "o" on the end means double over). If I could come up with something like 4.10 air ride rear clip, I'd pass on my 4.62's. I've been wanting to convert but haven't found anything in my price range(cheap).

My lower fender mounts on the passenger side is quite nice and solid. My drivers side is really weak and I tried to patch it up more, but it had been brazed early in it's life and nothing much to weld to. I made a nice solid brace from 1/2" bar stock that runs from floor to fender bottom and it really stiffened things up. It's got a small crack formed at cab/door corner. Unless I actually get to tear truck apart the added supports will have to keep her together.

Look on the drivers side of pig, about the middle, there should be some numbers stamped. Included in those number should be the ratio: 4.62 or 5.xx My truck has 4.62 gears and runs 64 mpg with a 5x3. Make sure you actually pace the truck with something to comfirm your speed. My truck speedo reads about 8 slow of what it actually runs! They make two 5x3's, a single over and double over. Mines' a single over.

It's too bad it rubbed you all wrong Scott. The ATHS board has alot of great information just for the asking! Yes, you have to put up with the occasional smart azz comment.......we've all learned to take them/say them in jest. It's the internet and you have to have thick skin sometimes as not everyone is prim/proper. Sarcasm can be dished out pretty readily, so you have to learn to take it. I guess I'm too used to that type of talk only cause I drive a FORD and have friends that drive Chevys, Dodges and Pontiacs........and lord knows the crap get deep sometimes. Welcome to the internet..............You can't please everyone.

My floors were pretty rough in the corners below windshield(typical leak/rust problem). I cut the whole she-bang out and replaced it all. It was not as hard as you would think. I mimic'd the original using three panels, but I added an additional brace(1x1 sq tube) across front of seat mount area that I welded in at door sill area. I had a new lip channel bent to match where floor panel comes out, and welded that in first then put remaining floor in. Barring the missing lumps/ribs it looks pretty stock and with brace installed it's stout. Here is link to pics http://groups.msn.com/bigmacktrucks/larrysmack.msnw?Page=2 Now, if someone would just repop cabs LOL!!!!!!

The main tranny gets split by compound. 1st in main, lo, then direct, then OD, 2nd in main, lo, then direct, then OD, etc. Here's my short vid showing the basic procedure: http://fords.kilonet.org/freightrain/bride1.wmv

Got that right!! That'd be a great opportunity for sure.

My B had 10-20's on it, I put 11r22.5 Radials on it getting rid of the split rims.

Two bolts in the back center.

I think that would only pertain to paperwork or a single image on something like letterhead.

That era would likely be 6v(unless someone converted it to 12v). Positive ground was also likely.

.....drool....................................