Freightrain

Was the old sensor dead shorted internally? That would have blown the fuse also, then after replacing the sensor it would take a new fuse to get it working again. Something to consider.

Paul has it pretty much covered. Before Maxi brakes...it has a manual drum brake on the rear of tranny, thus the reason for wheel chock back in the day. Like mentioned, alot of trucks got converted over to spring brakes. Tranny's: gasser's could have 5, but diesels went 10, 15, 20 spds. The 10 spd came as a two stick OR one stick(unishift) as the fist venture into air shifted compound box. I don't think you'll find any over the road tractors rated for 80K like todays truck, but with only 200 hp available you couldn't put that kind of weight on it and get anywhere very fast. Most times they were only geared for 45 mph(max speed back in the day). I know alot of these trucks pulled more then 100K at times, but that was a very, very slow trip. I'd bet(without looking) most GCVW were around 50K or so.

Small hole? 1/16" hole is pretty small. Most drains cocks would have been 1/8" pipe or larger(which is near a 3/8" hole size). So it's an open hole now? It needs a plug put in it for the system to be able to work. Start up? You'll need to air that tank up to 100+ psi, push in the "shut off" on the dash and then hit the starter. Unfortunately with air start you can't "crank and crank and crank" like with an electric starter. You'll get a few seconds of good cranking then it will run out of air and quit turning. Not good for starting an old engine that hasn't run in a while. Lot of guys will pull start them, as you can keep it turning by just pulling it around in circles. Air up the brakes(so you can release the parking brakes--if it has spring brakes on it), then also it will give you brakes for when it does start and you need to stop it from rolling into something.

I love a '78 T/A just everyone else. Especially a "gold" edition, as a close friend of mine had one. His was just a few steps above that one and he had it totally restored(full qtrs) and it was perfect when he was done. Great cruiser car. If you have the room, I'd go with the U(like everyone else). It's hard to beat an old Mack, though being a short wheelbase it will be pretty rough riding. There is still alot of parts around and you can spiff it up pretty easily. I suppose the price is just over scrap? It's sad as it's a pretty tall price for the overall condition it seems to be in.

Nice look'n F model! Thanks for sharing.

And there was an opertor IN the dozer! Bet he had a "pucker" factor goin' on LOL!! Probably couldn't fall out of the seat if he was pulled with a chain LOL!!!! Looks all salvagable...though I bet the pickup might have some issues. Can't tell how close the truck/trailer got to it before it stopped.

No doubt!!! Being a Featherlite, I suppose it's not TOO heavy LOL!!! Bet it really makes my ol dog pretty slow though.

Nifty job for the ol Dog. Imagine that with a B model in front LOL!!!

Pretty impressive looking. I'd use them, as like everyone else...NOS perfection my truck isn't. My originals are pretty fair condition, though pitted from sitting outside for a long time. I'm sure they were replaced when the truck was painted way back when.

Looks great...sounds pretty smooth too. Strap a few more cans on her and go stretch the legs a bit!

Lot of connections here at BMT. Someone will likely know someone that knows where there is one for sale. It took me about a year to find mine(in my own town). Good luck and welcome to the board.

I got my Yokohama's for $250 ea, then $50 ea for a tubeless rim. Best thing I could have done for it as I use my truck all summer and I'm not worried about "looking" original(as some guys want for their trucks). I run about 70 psi all around and it drives smooth and nary a wiggle in the wheel at 65 mph.

I had old bias plys on mine when I bought it and they weren't terrible, just old. I put new radials all around and it's smooth as glass at 65 mph. One finger driving most anywhere. The reason mine broke was I have mine cut down to only 3 leaves out back. With the last 7 yrs of exagerated movement the big leaves gave out. These weren't meant to move as far as I was moving them, so they broke. With NEW leaves I'm sure it will out last me.

Rear? Ya, I've had mine out. Even broke RR just a month ago. Check in the forums, as I posted about it. Go figure, 50yr old springs breaking? Mine is only a s/a, so it's an easy job. If you have camelback........that's a whole other story. I haven't had the fronts out yet, though someday I'd like to get them redone. Right now my drivers side has a clamp that has popped on it, though it's not hurting anything I'd like to get it repacked. I suppose the worse is getting the rear pin out? The front is on a slipper pad.

The old truck crowd is WAY different then "car" people. We don't like trophies, period. Push, pull, drag it in with a chain and you'll get people to look at it, ask questions and appreciate that you brought it! I used to do car shows/cruise in back in early 90's, and you're right it's all about the voting(stuffing the ballot box) or judging. My pickup was just a nice original '69 F100(back then) and I never expect to win anything(and never did) but it was funny to watch the fanatic people that freaked if they DIDN'T win something(some should have, some shouldn't). I have a friend with a '67 Shelby Mustang that took 979/1000 pts at National show. He was told to basically not bring it back as it was too perfect. So now it's a showpiece that never is going to see the light of day again. It's worth too much to drive to any local shows. Good story: Couple years ago went to car show at Ford Dealer. It was suppose to be "all ford". The "dealer choice award" was a '50 sedan that had a Chevy subframe and 350 powered. HUH? Alot of very nice Model A and T's and other super sano cars, but they picked this "custom". Ya, real Ford ya picked there. Ok, I'll quit ramblin' I've had my car down to Bowling Green a few times. I used to travel some with the NMCA (nat muscle car assoc) and run N/SS with it. Now I stay local as it's too expensive to run too far anymore.

Welcome to the world of old trucks. ANY color is proper as long as YOU Like it! Some guys like pristine restorations, others like to customize them. Build it anyway you like. You won't go to ANY real truck show where they are judged "concourse". Actually the more rusty/originality the better. It tells a story of what the truck has been through. Pick either truck(or both!) and enjoy.

The museum is NOT a quick service, but don't fret you'll get it.

I have twin intake, but no oil cooler. Not sure there is a thermostat in the housing? Never had it apart.

Don't think my truck has thermostat? Uses only the shutters to get heat, like Tom mentioned. If the shutter stick open(first time out), it won't get warm at all(maybe 140), but once you smack them closed they will then open/close and keep the temp around 170 running down the road(with load).

Well, I don't have anything long enough to put on my 3/4" breakerbar so I borrowed a 600# torque wrench. I pulled and pulled and pulled...........til I was blue in the face. It was tough holding that monster UP as I pulled it. I got to 450# and gave up. Don't think it will ever fall apart. I just got home from few hundred mile round trip with no issues, so I think I'm good to go. One thing I notice is it's a bit more bouncy(not rough, just bouncy) now then with the old springs. It sat for 4 days with the trailer on it, so it should have them set down a bit now. It road a bit better coming home tonight then Thursday going out.

Ohhhh X-11..............real hot rod version! LOL!! Actually had a fellow a few years back make a race car from one. Even back half'd it with 14/32 tires and small block Chevy, bright yeller in color! Have not seen it in quite few years now.

Say what??? Man...didn't think I'd ever here "Citation" and "RUN" in the same sentence anymore.

Ya, the compressor needs coolant, though I'd have to go look at mine to tell where it all hooks up(might be the plugged thermostat housing). I put all new lines on my as the old stuff was pretty stiff from engine heat after 49 yrs. The compressor basically "runs" constantly, though it "unloads"(freewheels) when air is up to pressure. As long as there is water circulating and you aren't working the engine it will never really heat up(especially if shutters don't close). That is why it is never good to idle a diesel. It needs to be worked to build up heat to burn off all the crud. If no one gets you the information, I'll be glad to get some pics of my truck for you.

OK, things went well yesterday. I dropped parts off 8am, picked up 4pm! Total: $571 for 3 new leafs each side and new bolts. As of 9pm last night it's all back in one piece besides torquing ubolts. Still looking for torque specs(anyone?). Ya, lucky the front mounts didn't break, though they don't get much abuse. It's just the contant monkey motion of the 49 yr old springs that caused the failure. The top spring was new and only bend outta shape, not broke. With three new leafs on each side, it should survive the summer fine, and once racing season is over I can work on getting air under it(hopefull).

Yup Rob....that's about what it's going to cost, plus u bolts. Should have it by Wed, so I can thrash on it Wed evening and go racing Thurs! Wahoo!