Freightrain

The museum is NOT a quick service, but don't fret you'll get it.

I have twin intake, but no oil cooler. Not sure there is a thermostat in the housing? Never had it apart.

Don't think my truck has thermostat? Uses only the shutters to get heat, like Tom mentioned. If the shutter stick open(first time out), it won't get warm at all(maybe 140), but once you smack them closed they will then open/close and keep the temp around 170 running down the road(with load).

Well, I don't have anything long enough to put on my 3/4" breakerbar so I borrowed a 600# torque wrench. I pulled and pulled and pulled...........til I was blue in the face. It was tough holding that monster UP as I pulled it. I got to 450# and gave up. Don't think it will ever fall apart. I just got home from few hundred mile round trip with no issues, so I think I'm good to go. One thing I notice is it's a bit more bouncy(not rough, just bouncy) now then with the old springs. It sat for 4 days with the trailer on it, so it should have them set down a bit now. It road a bit better coming home tonight then Thursday going out.

Ohhhh X-11..............real hot rod version! LOL!! Actually had a fellow a few years back make a race car from one. Even back half'd it with 14/32 tires and small block Chevy, bright yeller in color! Have not seen it in quite few years now.

Say what??? Man...didn't think I'd ever here "Citation" and "RUN" in the same sentence anymore.

Ya, the compressor needs coolant, though I'd have to go look at mine to tell where it all hooks up(might be the plugged thermostat housing). I put all new lines on my as the old stuff was pretty stiff from engine heat after 49 yrs. The compressor basically "runs" constantly, though it "unloads"(freewheels) when air is up to pressure. As long as there is water circulating and you aren't working the engine it will never really heat up(especially if shutters don't close). That is why it is never good to idle a diesel. It needs to be worked to build up heat to burn off all the crud. If no one gets you the information, I'll be glad to get some pics of my truck for you.

OK, things went well yesterday. I dropped parts off 8am, picked up 4pm! Total: $571 for 3 new leafs each side and new bolts. As of 9pm last night it's all back in one piece besides torquing ubolts. Still looking for torque specs(anyone?). Ya, lucky the front mounts didn't break, though they don't get much abuse. It's just the contant monkey motion of the 49 yr old springs that caused the failure. The top spring was new and only bend outta shape, not broke. With three new leafs on each side, it should survive the summer fine, and once racing season is over I can work on getting air under it(hopefull).

Yup Rob....that's about what it's going to cost, plus u bolts. Should have it by Wed, so I can thrash on it Wed evening and go racing Thurs! Wahoo!

There are ceramic seals on the hot side of the turbo, and sounds like they might be history. Might just need a rebuild to get yourself going again.

I'm going with a full air ride, as I want to stretch the truck about 40" to be able to add a sleeper. I've seen those add ons and it would be easy to do. I'm dreading what it's going to cost to replace the leaves. Probably won't be cheap...but gotta do it now, as I need the truck Thursday. I've been wanting to get the fronts rebuilt as I know one of the clamps has rotted and broke so the leaves have "popped" a bit. Since the front doesn't move much(flex) I'm not too worried about it right now. The biggest issue was the rear leaves move ALOT since I cut all the leaves out. This no doubt had alot to do with the break, especially after 49yrs.

Well, not too terrible, but did put a damper on the trip home. I got to my destination to walk around the truck to see the RR tire was right up near the fender. Hmmm, not good. I found three leaves sticking out of the pack and the top spring was kinda not arch correctly anymore. Ouch. There is a section of Rt. 8 that is just about unpassable for trucks and this year it's getting worse, so it didn't surprise me to find this. I was able to remove the fender and using a 4x4 block the spring UP using my fifth wheel mounting angle iron and it make the 90 mile trip back home okay. Bit rough, but better then the alternative. After spring was removed, but you can tell how I used fifth wheel to support weight The issue was when I got truck back in '01 I had the springs cut down to THREE main leaves(the rest left for spacers). It's work great, but I suppose after the trip it just had plus the fact the two bottom spring were 50 yrs old had something to do with it. The top leaves were replaced back when I cut it up as the original were pitted around the u-bolt plate, so it survived the punishment. I have to wait for Monday to get things replaced, and I'm due out Thurs morning, so I'm really hoping local shop can take care of it quick. I can dream anyway. Drivers side spring I'll be replacing all leaves this time, so it should last a long time............even though I'm trying to put a plan together for this fall to FINALLY get an air ride stuck under it.

Ya, well I like the attention the ol girl gets(even my g/f likes it).........but I want more power/comfort/bunk. I could change what I got, but I've always wanted a KW so I'm keeping my options open.

From what I've been told the 2 pc is the replacement version. Seems the one piece is the factory unit, and has to be chiseled/cut out to replace with two piece unit. This of course only if you don't want to have to pull the tranny. If the tranny is out of truck, then you can put a 1 pc back in it.

I would try to find a truck that was in decent running condition in the first place. One that was drug outta a field will tend to have alot more wrong with it and need more parts replaced. I watched my truck for a few years before buying it. It was still in use, though very little, I knew it ran and did the job. It needed stuff done, but I could work and drive it too. Unless you plan on doing a full blown restoration, don't get it in too many pieces as it gets harder and harder to put back together without spending MORE money(right Paul?). Most of the tinkering I've done was with simple hand tools and truck wasn't down for extended time periods. I'm really looking hard at getting a "bigger" truck, and would love to sell the ol girl. Can't seem to find that right truck, so I'll keep pluggin along. I use my truck every weekend, so selling it prematurely would not be a good thing.

Doesn't EVERYONE have a cement mixer in their garage Tom?

The smaller the model number, the lighter the chassis and smaller the engine(usually). Even numbers were gas motors, odd numbers were diesel. They look relatively all the same, with a few changes here/there. Look at the right frame rail, behind the front spring hanger for the serial number, which will tell you what model is.

Welcome to the board Rustydog. Lots of old-time information available 'round here, that's for sure. Pretty much any of us has been there/done that once or three times. Good luck on the search for a truck.

That's definitely a truck you have to go OUTSIDE to change your mind.... Cool ol piece, but I bet a bear to spend all day in!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mack-Superl...sspagenameZWDVW I know of the guy that has this. I'm familiar with the red KW shown in the pics of auction. Two things: Not to sure of air filter set up? Don't look like they are big enough? The big "side pipe" exhaust. Could do without that, but that's just me. They did do a very nice job with it overall.

One of my favorite lines from my Uncle. His 3 boys were all tough kids, and never backed down from a fight. "Don't bring anything to a fight you can't EAT" This was in a time when fists were all you needed! Unlike today.

The ol 673 n/a gets about 8-9 mpg running empty, 7-8 pulling my trailer(14K lb). 4.62 gears, single OD, 22" rubber.

I'd use plastic for adding the controls. Much simplier to hook up and you don't have to worry about degrading rubber later on.

I originally pulled my very old, broken trailer lines off as I didn't plan on pulling an "air" type trailer. I've since put a new TP valve and lines out back to make it possible again. It's a pretty simple hook up really other then mounting your new dash control. This is where John Evans(truknut) used to jump in and give all the details. He's been AWOL for some time now.

Ya, true Rob. I was a little shaky the first year or so even though the truck was run occasionally previous to my buying it. I did put alot of new stuff in it in that time to make it reliable, though I've had a few little mishaps nothing catastrophic. One leaky fuel filter line and one broken oil line, both of which makes a REAL mess of truck/trailer, but she made it to/fro my destination.