Freightrain

The "unishift" was a 10 spd air split Duplex.

Welcome to the site! Lots of information on this board.

Ya, I remember that the last time it was up. Seems to have more pictures this time. What a gold mine, and likely worth the asking price! Could you imagine having to truck all that stuff somewhere and the cost involved? Ohhhh, that makes my head swim. Could be worth a small fortune once you get it all organized and priced out.

Maybe if I get bored the next week or so maybe I'll kinda pull the unit and take some pictures? It's a very simple device and I know alot of guys hate them but I think with some cleaning, especially that "return valve"(whatever it is called) that make it go back and forth is the real culprit for most guys.

Great videos. I used a Sony handy cam to do mine and I made a little sheetmetal bracket that I bolted to coat hook on passenger side. It alleviates the shake. Your truck sure does sound great. What for exhaust do you have on it? It really barks nice.

Ya, I saw that too. I soaked it up and blew thru it with 120# of air so I know it's not clogged shut(the felt part). Didn't try to run without it, might just to see what happens.

Well, as I work on leaks on the ol B this winter I got to thinking about the wipers. They "work", but wondered if maybe over the years(and leaky air compressor) they might use some work. It turned out to be a very simple project and now they work better, faster and smoother. Hmmmm. Pulling the wiper motor requires two bolts and three air lines. Simple. Didn't have to really mark anything as most only fits one way. After getting the motor assy on the bench I did a quick clean up in the parts washer to get it done to metal(45 yrs of oil build up under the hood). I then proceeded to remove the two end caps(6 bolts each). The passenger side is simple, the drivers side is a bit more complex with an arm that latches the piston to the return valve on the end cap. Slip the arm off the pin and now you can dismantle it completely. Unbolt the four bolts on the center cap where the shaft output is. First note the position of output arm as it needs to be put back at this location to line up with wiper arm again. If you miss it, it's a simple adjustment that can be done while motor is on firewall again. The piston only comes out the passenger side of housing. Watch as you slip it apart as there is a felt seal on each end. My whole unit was sludge city after many years of a worn air compressor pumping oil into the system. I carefully cleaned all the pieces in parts washer, including the felt seals which one stayed on, the other slipped off. I carefully reinstalled it after drying piston. Using some WD40 on rubber seals(on each end also) I put piston back into housing. I carefully had pulled the paper gaskets off housing and was able to reuse them. I regreased the gear output assy and set it in place. At first I thought it was in right, but found that it's indexed with a hole and I had it 180 degrees out. I put it back in correctly and installed unit on truck. After hooking some air to truck I tested the unit. WOW....lickity split they woosh back and forth quite smoothly and a bit quicker at full speed then before. No doubt after removing all the sludge I knew it would improve some. With only 1.5 hours invested in this little project, I'm quite happy with the results. Granted I didn't "restore" it to showroom condition(no beadblasting or such), since the truck really doesn't warrant that. Anything cleaner then when taken off is a great improvement. If anyone has problems with their air wipers, I'd suggest a little time be spent and you'll be pleasantly surprised how easy it is to improve the operation. I think alot of guys have wipers that don't return, and I think the little valve actuator on the end is probably the culprit and some simple cleaning will do wonders. Sorry I didn't get ANY pictures of this as I kinda just did it and once I got it back together figured it would make a neat little article. Have fun.

Don't break a sweat on it, in all it just means that the two axles WON'T interchange. You'll need to use crd118 axles in the new carrier. You're crd62 axles won't fit.

There should be some drag on shaft when trying to turn it. If it spins free, then it's broke. This is the same design they use in std cars(before they all were front whl drive and elec. fans).

Mine takes 2 1/4" socket. Fits both the rear pinion and tranny nut. I got the pinion apart this afternoon, but the tranny nut is being a bit more stubborn. Tried heating a few times(like when I did the pinion), but can't get it to budge. I gave up and will try again Tues night. I bought my socket from Sears way back in '01 when did pinion first time. It didn't seem to mind the 3/4" drive impact I used today and it's not a impact socket. That's the strange thing, when I got pinion apart I already put a speedy sleeve on it the last time. It had two good marks from seal in it so I guess I'll have to put another sleeve on it. I can't really figure why it would tear up a sleeve in only 6 yrs. I was thinking, maybe the fact the rear end might have been a bit low on grease, thus allowing it to run too dry and thus burn it up? OR, was it the fact I run it too "fast" all the time and that is why it burnt up. Can't really think that was the issue, but I'm just thinking out loud.

Baby steps.................... LOL! One step at a time is all it takes.

Well, got the valve covers off, ya it's a 673 n/a. The bolt gaskets were gone(pretty much), thus I think the problem why it was leaking. It was seeping around the gasket and even worse around the bolts and down draft tube mounts. I know I have a big pile of gaskets, hopefully I have bolt rings too. Doubling them up was on my list, plus I was going to check gasket crush before making them permanent. I was missing one fitting to adapt air lines, so guess I'll work on seals tomorrow. I did get the cotter pin out of tranny, though not sure how I'll get new one in? Time will tell. Really looking forward to getting this thing DRIED up some.

Well, duh.........I got the cobwebs outta my head and dug up my manual I got years back and found a layout of Duplex. That's close enough to give me an idea of what's in there. Terry, I see the layout of the twin bearings. Thanks for the heads up, and the offer gvam. One question: How the HECK did they get that cotter pin in the nut? It's barely enough room for socket in that companion flange area let alone enough to pin in there? I know I can get it ripped out, but getting new one back in?? That will be a real trick. Got my hands on 3/4" impact, picked up 1/2" line to power it from my compressor so after some quick plumbing I'll fire it up and see if I can get it apart. Love to get the little leaks all fixed up. I think I'll work on the valve covers again next. Did them 5 yrs ago and they've got to leak'n again pretty good. What kinda glue do you guys use to seal this up? Apparently the Ultra silicone I used didnt hold up. Should I use a hardening style gasket maker? Thanks guys.

Involute splines are tapered sides, kinda like a gear would have. You have to use PINS to measure the size, as the maj/min are basic reference dimensions. Here is a website I found that you can look thru to see differences. It gets pretty technical, but might give you some idea of what I'm talking about. http://www.omnigear.us/technical_information.htm

Let the FUN begin. Sounds like you got a great project going.

Good idea Glenn. If Dave finds out what's behind door #1, I'll proceed. Wish I had a book on these things. Don't want to make a mistake and HAVE to pull tranny to put back together!!! That would not be a good thing. I've got a couple months before truck is going anywhere so it's not a major deal, yet.

Welcome to BMT! Pictures........we ALWAYS want pictures!

Ok, maybe there's nothing I can do with it? Rear seal on the transmission is seeping pretty good on the ol B. I've pulled the driveshaft cause I'm replacing pinion seal also. I did the pinion like 6 yrs ago but it's starting again. The tranny I've never been in to, but not sure there is actually a seal or what? I've pulled the companion flange apart to find a large castle nut hidden inside. "IF" I pull the nut and slide the flange off will I find a seal? Is it a simple replacement? Not sure it will do alot of good as it is a 50 yr old tranny and how tight are the bearings/shafts? Sure would like to clean up a couple of the leaks. I've tried for a couple nights now to get pinion nut loose...ain't happ'n yet. 5 ft cheater bar...still ain't happ'n. It was loose when I bought truck, so it came right apart when I put first seal in. I turned it one more notch on castle nut and now it's locked pretty tight. Great. Might have to invest in a 3/4 drive impact to give it a bit more umph. I'd love to tear into tranny and rebuild it, but ain't happening. Still like to find a double over quad box. Then a place to put it in.

Guess some dimensions from both cabs and compare to see? Depends on which visor too, the curved metal version or plastic Lund version. The metal one I suppose to be altered easier then the fiberglass version.

Yup, one in the same. Thanks for the compliment.

By the looks of it Thaddeus, the plate that holds the rear spring mounts, is a snug fit to outside of frame, thus there is no chance of walking sideways. Not sure about front/back? The pics don't show enough details, but I assume it is locked from any movement other then up/down. Very nice job Tom! I kinda like to see some real drawings to it also. Might be better then my cut up spring pack. I assume since there is no ride height control, that is the reason for no real weight can be added(hauling a trailer)?

I appreciate the comment Mike. I'm surely no expert...........but like Terry mentioned....I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Wow...now that's a short wheelbase! Neat find!

Here's the short clip of Stan's truck blow'n smoke.

I remember way back in maybe early 90's when Two guys garage(was Shadetree Mechanic) was a useful show to watch, Sam Memmollo put an exhaust brake on his Cummins pickup. I remember him talking about also switching exh springs to help keep them from floating. I put an exhaust brake on my Ford F350 powerstroke in 2000. Since Ford put a Exhaust back pressure valve in the system to help with warm up anyway, a company came out with a controller to actuate it for braking purpose. It worked slicker than snot and I could practically stop the truck just downshifting it(6 spd). I had the turbo go out at 9k miles and replaced under warranty, the service manager reamed me a good one about how that exh brake was NOT allowed and would void my warranty. Since I had spent near $100K in the last few years on trucks, they let me go but had to promise to remove it. They claimed it was the cause of failure(ya, right), though it was a common issue with them back then to have bearing failures due to oiling issues. I got 50K miles out of it before selling truck. The Ford EBV had a hole in it to protect it from over pressurizing, as it had hydraulic lifters and valve float was VERY possible.