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Put Lanova engine into the NR chassis of Friday. The chassis was completed 12 years ago and the engine first started 8 years ago. The 2nd story was untold due to shortage of time. Now the things look more promising than before but still damn amount of tinkering ahead.

right?..

It has started. Will take time, not sure how fast it will happen. I have legs made up to get it off the floor and I can drop the pan. Local guy has std pan that he will trade for my ESI pan(that won't fit my chassis). Found a couple loose exhaust rockers(like more then 1/8" lash)hope that isn't a cam failure! Didn't make any bad noises while running and had 70# oil pressure. Will investigate that further. My 3/4" IR won't break the head bolts loose, but was using adapter for 1/2" socket. Need to buy a good 3/4" socket and see if that improves the performance. Should have some updates next week?

hide the remote and unplug the TV

Hello forum members! Here are some updates on my B Model restoration. I know it doesn't show but the wet sanding and buffing is going well. I also got the side boards installed. I plan on doing the driver's door and then tackle the roof and back of the cab. The smaller parts are done, then reassembly begins. As Always, Best Regards.....Frank

Lots of those inaccurate descriptions with $1234 for the price are some type of scam.

I know it’s off topic,,, but I passed a Chevy Dealership in Melbourne FL about 30 minutes ago,,, And I couldn’t resist! There is a Quarter Million $ ! Back on this Superliner ,, That thing is Definitely detailed. The price to get that truck to that level would be astronomical! I had a lot of paint and supplies get washed down the creek and it hurt as much as the tools did.

its about time ya slacker!!!!!

Larry posts regularly on Facebook. I will tell him his fan club misses him.

Go have some fun bob....hope you all enjoy the 4th.America day!!!. Then get busy with the DM....Im up to my neck in our Cruisliner... Paul

Looks like you have bolts and not studs and nuts for headbolts, be sure to chase all threads and bottom tap and blow out bolt holes. Terry

Get a part time job for min wage so you get used to getting out of the house and away from TV and Computer!!!!

Crosses to a Baldwin P41 Wix the same with a 5 infront.

A couple of "before" pics

Another harvest injury is this bumper got pretty bent out of shape. Needs taken off and straightened but I can't decide what color to paint it back too. Red? White? throw that tiny thing out and get a big chrome one? (I wish) I know a lot of guys would just tuck something like this in the shed and only bring it out to shows but even the antique things have to earn their keep every once in awhile

i swear, things at your place seem to only move in reverse!!!

i offered $12.34, but he has not answered back yet.

Tbh my mate has an international trucking business so he said if I find the parts he should be able too sort transport for me

FFS, you are really taking this retirement gig seriously aren't you bob 😂 Paul

Nathan Try finding blokes that import Yanky stuff like motors for hot rods and muscle cars etc to the UK and Europe Last year I got 2 truck gear boxes sent from the U.S. to Australia for less than the cost of freighting two sets of mud flaps I got these here from a bloke that imports cars and car parts, I just for a bit of room in a shipping container $300.00 Aus landed in Australia from the East coast of the U.S. Which is kinda strange, it cost more to get them to the port in the U.S. than from the U.S. to Australia And it's cheaper to get things delivered to Australia from the East coast than West So maybe it might be cheaper to get things imported Sweden (lots Swedish people love the big Yank tank type of cars) and grab a ute a mate or the little woman and jump on a ferry from the UK to Europe and drive to Sweden to collect London to Stockholm is according to Google only 22 hours of driving, grab a mate and some good music, your there in a day and have a story to tell everyone Paul

Just repairing the rad,small weep from bottom corner,refitting alternator,front wheel seals,stripped the chassis for painting,painting engine,and if we have time painting the cab...Got a corner of a shop for 8 weeks so we are flat out trying to get all done....I cant afford to even think about being tired Bob.... Paul

That's what I've seen in the Mack manuals I have.

I have never torqued a axle nut I do it as tight as I can the whole time wiggling the hub and down and rolling the hub around, this makes sure the wheel bearings are fully seated, at least in my peanut of a brain Then back the nut of, then just do it up until it is snug and back it off until the first flat or hole in the nut lines up for the spilt pin I guess this would be pretty close to Joey's measurements Paul

Yes. That is true.. im dealing with one of my own. A small truck as it is, but each time i do something good for it. Something else pops up. So i have to collect myself, and start again. I wish him to have the patience and fortitude to keep up his good work.. 🍻

Have fun, as if you have to be told to have fun Don't forget to grab some Berocca's for the morning after Paul

Happy Birthday to the U.S.A. 🎉🎇🎆🎇🎆🎇🎆

The Give-a-Damn about 911, faded years ago when Dems got more power in NYC. M. Cuomo, and E. Adams, A.O.C., C. Hochul, L. James and others...

I think I will,,,The next time we are at a show remind me to show you a video on my phone ( dash cam) of me hitting a Black Bear with my Western Star,, He hit hard on the bumper where it bolts to the frame, felt like he came through the radiator,,, He got up and ran!,

pay attention to when you start putting new holes in your belt . ambition slows down with TV time and food taking hold, NOT GOOD< experience talking. the DM might be old BUT you will getter done. BMT crew counting on progress report. "tomorrow NOT guaranteed to no one. my "power plant " is failing . consider this question " if your told you have so much time left ; what would you do; how would you spend it ?? get the DM done Bob

Boy, that's an odd failure on a tube type. Guess anything is possible on an older tire though. From the picture , it suggests the wheel is in better shape than most of that vintage. Still might be a problem finding someone to touch it or have much selection to chose from as a replacement tire. Tubeless will go right on there, but I wouldn't get my hopes up for finding good used ones. Budds used to like to crack and often the lugs go way too far into the seats which doesn't lead to anything good either. At least if you bought two new ones though, you'd be done and have way more variety of 11/ 22.5s to chose from, as well as a lot less trouble finding someone to service them. If you're using the truck ? go tubeless. Maybe advertise those budds and someone restoring something who's familiar with them will give you something for them and help defray the costs of the update ?

Overall NR's were basically made as a L-model chassis. They seem closer to LF I guess having relatively light front axle, 44000 rears and single frame rails. But the wheels were used of 11.00-24 size with super single 14.00-20 rears on early production units.

Those are tube types, and it is a odd thing to see on a tube type. That kind of sidewall bubble is seen on tubeless when the liner fails and air pressure makes it though the carcass rubber. With a tube type, it would have to be failure in the mfg process, like an air void in the carcass itself. Since the rim on a tube type isn't air tight, a tube failure would vent to the outside of the assembly. What brand tires were they? I 1st thought a copula weeks old, but a few years is a casing failure. Must have lost some cords in that area to loose sidewall strength. That is the poster child for doing "pre trips"!

https://www.breitbart.com/politics/2025/07/07/trump-throws-out-biden-rule-sought-give-union-rights-foreign-workers-while-excluding-americans/

now that he is old, senile, and retarted i mean retired, it is probably one of the trucks he bought and forgot he had.

Still in PJs watching finding Nemo wife just brought home tai food ya baby

Yes, and Joey, if you really have to know, I get absolutely nothing today. I didn’t even get dressed.

My experience it is almost always cheaper to go back with what it came with. That much movement in the Big end, means the crank is toast. You will have to assess the condition of the block and components. When I had something similar happen, I swapped in a used engine (for short term) and a re-ground crank (.010-.010) and saw many more miles out of the engine. engine swaps (for a different make/model) the devil is in the details. It will run you ragged looking for a special bracket or some other thing to get everything to play together. In some cases it make take a custom made part. If you are going to swap my vote would be Gardner 8LXB! (Since I'm spending your money not mine!).

Sure didn't take them long to forget.

No help here, we don't use these type of boxes when the steering wheel is on the correct side Well, at least I have never seen one Paul

Photo I found of a Yellow Transit Freight Lines EUHT in the Yellow Dallas shop mid 1940's. Little bit before my time at Yellow.

Don't forget Autocar. Their conventional is interesting.

I ran Hankook's when I ran tube types without a problem, would run 3 treads off one casing (1 original, 2 caps), but toward the end they were not made in S Korea any more and were coming out of China. I then switched brands that were coming out of Viet Nam, Sri Lanka, I avoided China produced tires, although I will admit that some good ones come out of China as well. As to the brand CRS, and I have to go look. (Sumatro?) . Yes Stud Pilot AKA Budd wheels, Left side studs LH right side RH on the thread.

After a few beers and some serious head scratching we found the solution. There is a short stud under the manifold between #4 exhaust and inlet ports that retains the clamp which holds the #4 exhaust manifold against the block . It is completely obscured . It had a brass nut that somehow got thicker across the flats. One could start a 7/8" 4 way angle head wrench but it would not fully engage the nut and get enough of a purchase to turn it. In despair we were able to get a 15/16 wrench on it and back it off of the stud a few degrees at a time with some help from the acetylene torch. It was a bugger. The stud must have grown some rust that pushed the nut outward in the center of the flats. The nut was 7/8" across the flats originally. Mack described a special wrench (manifold fork stud wrench)Special Wrench.pdf specifically for servicing that nut. There was such a wrench still in the running board tool box . Maybe this will spare the next mechanic who dares to remove the manifolds some anguish.