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Ok, it happened. My friend showed up with his log truck and we got the motor and transmission picked out, set down and separated. Sorry I didn't take time for photos because it was all hands on deck. I got them wrapped up enough for the rain that came in overnight. I have a heavy tarp for longer use. I still need to get Jake parts off yet and likely use the twin oil filter set up and oil cooler off the 237. The triple filter I heard is a bit too big and will get in the way of power steering. The oil cooler I already rebuilt when I put 237 in the truck so it should be good for quite a while yet. Kevin All is making plans to stop down and drop off the power steer box and will likely buy the triplex for his bus. I need to load up the old 5 spd and deliver it to friend that came to pick the engine out. He also gets the old pistons from the 300 and the deep oil pan. Not sure what all I will get into today? I may roll new main bearings to get things started so when liners are in I can just slip rods in and torque everything down. I need to borrow a friends BIG torque wrench. Pretty sure I used it years back when I reinstalled rear springs and had new U bolts (before I stretched it and put air ride on it). We're making baby steps......

So, today Zina went to Home Goods to "see what's half off". She said she bought a lot of stuff that I'm sure we don't need, but it was half off. Then when she got to the register she found out that it was "half off the half off price" so she went back and got even more crap that we don't need. Now I'm going to need a storage trailer to put all this crap we didn't need in.

Comparing transmission mount locations. I bolted Eaton on backwards just to compare heights. You can also see how far forward towards engine it is compared to Triplex. Scribbled sketch. Eaton bell is 5" higher and 3" forward. This gives me something to work with to make mounts before it is dropped into truck. I hope.

You are one up on me....this is my first! It's just an engine but they all have their quirks. I just keep reading the manual to get ahead of things coming up. Guess I didn't read far enough 😆. Didn't dig deep enough into the parts box to see them on the bottom under everything.

thanks Joey that got it back running I really appreciate all your help

Yip I suffer that as well....Once its cheap thay have to buy....Girls are the same the world over... Paul

Dug up some pics I had of some old R Models in my town back in the day. The new red RD at the dealer ended up pulling log trailers (there were also two like it in the steel mill that pulled a 100 ton float), and the black one was a lumber hauler. The oversize load was a project in the steel mill here, Algoma Steel.

But don’t worry Newsom will take care or everything

Just go back a few pages. He posted pictures

spot on with that response.;; Mack to Mack power trains the rear engine mount is on the transmission. when a "foreign transmission "is used having rear engine mounts ON the engine bellhousing< a rear support hanger is used on the transmission. as always there are exceptions to the rule . a Mack engine with rear bellhousing mounts coupled to a RR could possibly eliminate the rear hanger mount.

Yep.. I just realized i was too quick to doubt myself.. I did a do over on my math..

I may be screwed up. Pull clutch would wear the rear side(pulling crank towards rear). The pilot bearing would wear front due to crank being pushed forward. Time to relax before I get too wacked out on my thinking.

way over due.

🍻

"pretty weak"is associated with lifting weights. building engines doesn't matter if one or ten are built. each one becomes a learning experience. to the builder. the self willingness to learn more is the difference between a "mechanic" and a professional engine technician. fortunately this site has many professional technician for us to learn from.

Nice.... I like this posting. I am learning things from you. I am pretty weak with the engine you have, i say that because I have only built 1, 673. I studied my book hard. But, of course E-7 + E-Techs are what I know fairly well. I have seen many similarities in how the engines were designed, of course the E-Tech block is its own kind.. Thanks Freightrain... Jojo

Duh, guess I should have dug out the NEW thrust washers. No slot but does come with one new pin. Guess that answers my question.

The 18913 I have has the two bolt pattern at the rear of main box for that rear hanging mount. It looks like it had something bolted there and this was in a power unit, not a vehicle.

Generally, here if the rear mounts are on the engine 1/2 of the bell, a rear transmission "leaf spring" type or rubber bisket mount is used. On set-up's where the rear mount is on the transmission 1/2 of the bell (thinking Volvo/White) then there is nothing at the rear of the transmission. It may have something to do with how much weight is cantilevered off the back of the bell housing, esp when aluminum housing are used. Just an observation

Paul.. The single leaf spring at the rear of the main box was used here as well. Ive seen it in Ford's and Freightliner's, I think Int.'s also.

Not trying to say it will not work, just wanted to point out somewhere to check. The new mount is in a "different area code" as you put it, so needs checking, which it sounds like you have done. New things in different real estate is always a concern.

I have noticed in Australia when RoadRangers/Eaton are installed in Macks aftermarket, a rear transmission mount is also used, these range from a propper engine mount rubbber deal to a section of leaf spring out of a car or pickup as you blokes call them These might be only 2 or three leaves, I wonder are they really needed or not ? Paul

These were modified for Australia like this, I think the head lights were to high on the U.S. cabs and this was the answer So All Kiwi and Australian Cruiseliners have 4 head lights like this Paul

The top of the bell is still just below the floorboard so the mount will be going down and back from the mount point on bell. I don't see an issue with clearance. Time will tell, I have a welder....it will all fit.

only in certain areas

hopefully the rear holes are the same as the front on the fuller!

Can you peel back the loom on those wires and write down the code on them? They should start with EJ or VJ, then a number, then a space and then a pair of numbers, then a space, then a decimal number. This code will tell you which ECU, the plug , and the pin number, then you can look at the V-Mac3 book to find that circuits purpose. I have posted the charts before.

So I have a buddy that I haul with that has a 05 cv with a 370 in it I am gonna go and try to look at his this evening and one maybe figure out where it goes and 2 figure out where it goes in the wiring harness I have found 2 wadded up harness on top of my motor that are zip tied one is pretty long both with 2 prong plugs, but I'm not getting a lightning bolt so the circuit must be closed somehow

Wow, you’re moving right along

Loosen 2 or 3 lines at the head and pump the primer till they bleed, tighten back down 25 lbft,, and fire it up. Foot to the floor and rev it up to clear it out..

lol ain’t no thing my brother I did think it was a little cocky but coming from you it could be anything come on???

Just to add a little more to this and several have mentioned it, but a Sheppard unit would be another option. Certainly a power steering box from another truck could be modified to fit and some have done that. From what I have seen, the Sheppard unit came in two sizes for B models, large and small. These were bolt in units that used a cut off and modified B model steering column with a u-joint at the bottom to mate to the box. The smaller one was for lighter trucks and the lager unit was for B61's and up. Old timers have called this "In the box Power Steering" compared to the add on units like Garrison and Air-O-Matic. This style to me is the best. Both units dramatically ease the efforts of steering and maneuvering loaded trucks in tight quarters. Someone may have one of these units available if you ask around. They are more rare and harder to locate nowadays. I lucked out and came across a large one when I bought 1/2 a B61SX 10 wheel dump to get the transmission for my first restoration and conversion to diesel of a B42. I didn't even know it was there until I disassemble the truck. Funny thing was, I didn't end up using the transmission, but all the little parts and mounts were invaluable to the swap. Once I got the correct pump and reservoir set up for it, it steered like a car. Loaded or empty, standing still on pavement it only takes one finger to move the wheel lock to lock. It really steers that easy. I added a Garrison unit to my B73 restoration and while it's a very good assist, it doesn't compare to the Sheppard box. Since L's are not that dissimilar to B's it wouldn't be difficult at all to add some sort of steering assist to your truck, like the Garrison unit HarryS offered up. Good luck and keep us informed of what path you take? It always adds to the general knowledge of the group.

Hope he don't mind, but I had to share this here. Picture posted by C.J. Hall on the Old Canadian Trucking Companies FB page. Here was the info he provided. John Crowell purchased this long wheelbase Mack Western F-model brand new. Powered by a V-12 Detroit Diesel. John was leased to Hope Freight Lines and ran around B.C.

A photo fresh to hand that my son took the other day Not Mack but, still a good action shot Paul

Yes Bob. .003" is thinner than paper. Freightrain knows what hes doin and what he's got. There are set limits for a reason. But this engine was running without blowby under the heads, so as he said, it will run again...

To take just .003 off now would be a PITA. It was fine before, it will be fine now.

Larry, I don’t understand why you can’t take them to work and knock them down. If nothing else it would clear your head. Good luck.

Sorry

My new friend runs that 237 pulling engine. He knows how to make them run! Even stays together at 3400 rpm! Yikes. I'll never do that but maybe I will try to get a few more HP out of it at some point. He, his dad, and grandfather are big Mack guys and weren't afraid to make power. His Dad's comment to me was "I can make that 300 smoke the tires on that single axle". 😆. Hold the phone..... I need it to last a long time first.

Just curious. I dont have my book in front of me, how would that affect the height of the piston at TDC? Seems to me you would have a bit more compression, but not be too close to the valves.

BOB!!! You be careful what the hell your sniffing!! You know, just saying. 😉 .....Hippy

Yup I always followed the parts guys to the parts that way I new I was getting the right part! Nothing pissed me off more than getting the wrong part ! Our boss bless his heart believed any monkey could hand out parts! NOT SO! A good parts Guy is Gold if you can find them ! Just like any trade!

Larry I remember back in the dark ages when I first started at the place that ran all R's and F models and one or two had the three filters. My 260 hp was made in 1980 and it had a cartridge filter I swapped it out for the filter setup off a 285 hp and a little bigger pan off another engine that was setting in the junk yard the junkers put a big hole in the oil pan when they pulled the engine that 300 should do you very well I drove an R with a 285 hp that I in chassis over hauled and it did pretty good in that triaxle dump

Well, weekend update. Dropped off radiator Friday. They can handle it. $1200. Well,at least it isn't $2000.... I told them to do it. I was surprised how flattened out the fins were around the fan area on the back. I'm surprised it cooled as well as it did. I picked up the puller and started on it this evening. Got #1 out. Found out what the .020 stamped on deck. Block bored oversize. I need to make sure I can get oversize sleeves. These were Mack sleeves. You can just see the .020 on the deck by the sleeve. The bore is 4.875, which is stock. Apparently the dealer must have rebuilt this at some time and bored the block. I knew it has been apart due to red silicone on gasket surfaces. I will contact Mack and see if these are still available or if PAI has them before going any farther. May have a large paperweight on my hands?? Might be in framing the 237 and bolting on 300 parts. Time marches on ......

I have changed some clutches out in the yard with a sheet of plywood it adds to the job when the jack doesn't roll worth a darn

Great friends. There are 3 of these trucks in Brazil, here they say it's an N32 model, year 1978. It was imported to Argentina for the construction of Itaipu and in 2006, acquired by a Brazilian company. Today, all 3 belong to collectors. Does anyone have any idea what engine it originally used (today it has an adapted Volvo), it is known that it was 500hp!