Vladislav

Thanks for sharing. Very interesting. Also enjoyed reading the story by the link.

Nice old picture. And cool to see the truck is still in the perfect shape. What are the fuel tanks? An aftermarket convertion? Is the LH one for hydraulic supply?

Best B-day wishes Tom! Smooth travels and keep well and healthy. Hope Zina pleases you and both you have a nice time.

My trouble was they got spinning after I broke screws in them (which were SS in common steel inserts). So drilling or other remove anyway.

Currently we have about 6000 cases in the country with nearly of 4000 of them in the capital. About 50 people died. Starting from nearly 15th of March news were announced to keep distancing and 2 week quarantine for those who was coming home from China, Italy, Iran, Germany, France etc. Many people started working from homes about the same time. Starting from the end of March a non-working week was announces with staying home quarantine starting from Monday. To the moment a week is gone and it's prolonged up to the end of April. All the borders were closed the same time and international flights cancelled. The quarantine is not really strictly so far. It's declared that everybody must stay home being only allowed to go for food to a nearest store, to apotek of to walk a pet for no longer than 100 meters from home. On practice all that is limitations of the constitution rights so people try doing their business too. What turns out difficult since all shops and other commercial and social facilities are closed excepting grocery stores, apteks and gas stations. The most citizens prefer staying home just for reasons of safety. That's why not really huge figures so far. But too possibly they will get change in the nearest future.

No, don't mention it. In fact I would be easily satisfied with a Superliner hood

What really surprized me in a C-model it was built on a pair of R-model frame rails. And if we take to account C was introduced earlier it means Mack designed that frame for C and further kept in production up to 2004 year. Co0ngrats on the great purchase! Too like to specifications.

Great old picture! Thanks for sharing.

You're welcome! Hope that's sufficient. Sure that wasn't my personal action but I wouldn't disagree if asked.

Wow! Nice box! I would gladly purchase it if any options on the delivery are avalible

Yup. And there's plenty of other threads regarding the subject if you go deeper into this forum.

Yes, the inserts seat in round holes. They're made as a pulling style part you put into a hole and than pull its lower part by the threads pressing it up to the roof skin and get snug. I had half of those inserts spinning when removed torpedo lights off a roof of my R-model. Some screws broke down and I tried to weld nuts to their ends to get the restowers away but had nearly 50% of luck on that. Ended grinding off the tops of the inserts so they fall down into the cab making the holes free. My further plan is to make steel plates and weld nuts to them than put them below the roof skin and glue up with body sealer. Suppose the lights could be attached well if turn the screws with care and also some grease in the threads. You would have to remove the hearliner to get access to the area if like to go that way. All the holes are accessible from under the headlight but some would need long fingers and light to be found. Better option is seem buying new insert nuts and install in the roof. Suppose they're avalible but didn't look for a source so far. But you will need a special tool to put them in place and I also don't sure the existing holes would hold them well enough being ones disturbed with. Vlad

The idea was to keep SGT general appearance but put some improvements to it since the original look was too simple when you up close to the truck. That took me to make spacings between the stripes and add the second raw of them. I also switched to metallic since I like metallics. Still afraid the final result will be too bright when all the body parts together regardless I made a few real size color tests before ended up with the combo and smoothed yellow and red to less contrast grades.

I never noted any special distancing between the trunnion stand and a crossmember to the front of it. More looks like Mack put them relatively even. And in many cases it even looks to me as they put those crossmembers anyway they wanted with just no logic. Some trucks have a prop shaft intermediate support installed on that next to the front crossmember but some alsao have it on the 2nd to the front one.

Ditto! As of me I'm having a difficulty choosing my favorite pic between the very 1st and very last ones. Thanks for posting.

As far as I remember (and I do it well) a person on here tried to purchase those parts new a few years back. It was possible but expensive. There also was a point in that story of Mack let him know he would need to order all 6 parts together if he wanted a match. Strange fact but turned out new parts were supplied as just black plastic no chrome. So if you buy all 6 you get a completely black grill, not a mix. Sure not too nice and doesn't suit tastes of many folks. If you dig the content of the forum really well you could find that old discussion.

Yes, that's correct. It takes the signal from a toothed wheel seated on the tranny exhaust shaft behind the rear cover. You need oscillograph to check its performance completely but can start with such easy test as just by checking its conductivity with a multimeter. There's a coil inside so should represent sertain resistance. If it doesn't conduct that means the wire is broken inside so the time to change with a new part. Another part of the story you might be having an issue in the speedo head in the dash. A buddy of mine had that in his 1999 Mack CH. Ended with fixing it by soldering iron but he's electronically inclined guy.

That's what brings me money. Those Kiev guys might be knowing me, I used to sell some parts that way. And you're sure right - fun to bomb around, especially in a forest or a swamp.

Wow! That old saying is true indeed of you never know what's behind the next corner. Many thanks for the link Jim. I hope I'll be helped out with my military Mack windshield frame. It has simple style but turns out not easy to duplicate or purchase.

That's true. I made test attempts with vinil tape but it looked ways off from what I was liked to achieve. Thank you for the comment.

In a couple of days the paint got relatively hard so I was able to took the cab from the shop and transport to my place. Made a couple of pics before putting it inside the shop. It will reqire polishing since stripe edges make clear coat uneven but I was going to do it much later when all the paint is set wery well. I had no hurry with that, plenty of work over the chassis and engine was planned ahead.

The time for the final paint has come. The cab was supposed to get stripes. Doors were painted much earlier as I liked to experiment with the color scheme and to have time to change it if dislike. They turned out well to my taste and I put them on the running truck. This time I had to remove them off there and put onto the cab being needing to correspond the stripes painted on it. To the time we arrived to the paint shop with the doors the painter applied a layer of silver base coat on the cab were the stripes were expected. After the doors were on and the gaps managed we applied plastic masking tape making countours for the future stripes. The matter of the tape was to cover the silver paint. After it was done the painter would mask everything excepting the areas supposed to be painted red. He than applied red base coat on them, went for drying, mask them up and remask the areas supposed to be painted gold. Put gold paint there, dry up, mask and remove all masking from areas supposed to be green. When green is applied and dry he would remove all the masking from everywhere and apply clear coat. There's a point the base metallic coats must be covered with clear coat no later than 48 hours. So not an eternity to play with colors and masking tape. That time my paint buddy did fine. He put silver in the evening and we started putting masking the next noon. He than went through red and gold down to the night, applied green in the morning and clear coated everything the next day. So all in all it took nearly 40 hours. I was invited to watch the result one day later. It was definitely a thrilling moment.

Now we are getting closer to the end of the story. Door openings were double primered because of weld spots applyed to the sills for attaching the rocker panels. Than seam sealer was layed and the openings painted.

Timmy, That's a good question. I spent some while figuring the best option to fit the strips. The matter was the roof had a kind of pocket at the rear and the front, a space above say rear wall top edge and windshield frame top edge. I bought a piece of 6x60mm steel stripe, just common construction steel, and bent it to put its rear end standing on that "shelf" of the rear wall top. Than it was bent following the roof curve getting off its surface gradually from rear to the front. I mean when you put the rear end in place the stripe gets as lower off the roof as further to the front making a gap. It was nearly 100mm of the gap at the front end. That way if you force the front end towards the roof and finally having all the stripe contacting it you have to apply sufficient impact to it, something like you can apply with both your hands. The roof gets supported quite well at the time but you need to lock the front end some way. For that I cut the stripe so you can pass the windshield frame top and drilled two holes near the front end. Drilled threads in the holes and cut two steel squares (shims?) off a piece of the stripe stock. Drilled two holes in each shim. Than when you force the support stripe to get place at the front you use pry bar to get it higher than the windscreen top, put the shim to its bottom side and onto the windscreen and attach it to the stripe end with two screws. Releasing the stripe you get its front end landing on the windshield frame top and applying tension to the roof sheet. When I bent first stripe I managed its curve to apply maximum force to the roof where it seemed to be needed. Spent nearly 40 minutes for the 1st stripe and than 20 to duplicate it for the other side. The 1st picture shows a test fitted stripe with just a piece of steel to lock the front end in place. The 2nd one was made after all was assembled by the final design. I also added two cross braces to support the center. Drilled holes in the stripes, put screws with blind heads in them and welded over. Sure ground off the excess. Than when the stripes were in place I was able to put braces onto the studs (former screws) by means of holes drilled and attach with nuts. Put plastic shims between the braces and the roof sheet to compensate the thickness of the stripes.