Vladislav

Do they do cardboard liners? Or any newer material such as ABS or so? My (basically L-model) glove box insert made of sheet metal but I'm not sure on the kind of the liner. Anyway thanks for letting us know.

To sorry to hear about the happened.

Uggh... Just checked in and saw this thread... Rest In Peace Ed. As you once typed, nothing ever disappeares completely.

Congrats on the first start! Didn't you bother the injection lines so they kept fuel in the injectors? Looked like pretty easy start for newly assembled fuel system.

Yes, as said above. If a valve's leaky it would allow the fuel to run back into the tank and also cause loose of pumping allowing the fuel escape that same way instead of traveling to the injection pump. The matter of the belts jumping could be pulleys out of center. Or unevenly worn grooves. I never meet such issue just figuring. Maybe uneven hardness of rubber in the belts due to drying out during storage?

They're still avalibly new and Watt's Mack used to have them in stock. But the costs became not too pleasingly in the recent years. The rocker panels I used for repair of my R688 cab were 169QS43P3 RH and 169QS44P3 for the left. As for the roof skin keep in mind there were shorter cabs (pre- 72 or so) which had shorter roof sheet. So look for the later (or the longer) one. Vlad

Almost true

What are those green tint glasses? Newly made?

And the one in the initial post is a very interesting find.

I'm pretty sure Jim has...

What I found locally is industrial carpet with rubber (poliurethane?) backing and they claim I could bend it in shape applying some heat. Haven't the job done yet just going to put my hands on.

As I said in my previouse post - unbelivable and interesting! Currently I'm on my very first steps on Farsi. Seems to me of not much worth of a trip in those lands with no local speaking skills.

Unbelivable and very interesting. I'm on a slow hunt for an old Soviet YaAZ-210 truck which was produced in 50's and looked very close to a L-model Mack. Actually it was designed using Mack chassis as a prototype. 20 thousand were produced and only one survivor is known at the moment here in Russia. I know a few were exported to Afghanistan and some other countries and keep a hope to find something in that part of the world. Seems like not the safest place on the planet to travel and the virus made the most of borders closed at the time.

The vent windows would suit any show car. Excellent work!

They seem built on later chassis such as some heavy B-models with locally built L-model like cabs. I may be wrong since never put my hands on one or even an eye below the chassis.

Great to hear!

What a nice fall forest to walk in! Thanks for sharing.

I like the way you move!

Ok, count it out. Gråsten - a town in Denmark. Don't ask me how I could type that letter

Paul, too much of credit to me. I (virtually) wiped my eyeglasses and looked at those letters on the screen. Norway, Sweden, Danemark... My bet it's in Danish. But it's more bet than a fact. There's a Dutch guy who knows everything about every Mack in Europe. But he's a seldom visitor on here. I'll try tossing a question.

Try checking out this guy: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-B-model-dump-truck-peterbilt-international-Kenworth-Studebaker-antique/264005462119 He's in your neck of the woods and seems parting out a Cruise.

They look excellent for ever used tanks!

If the tyres were never exposed to the sun and don't have cracks which could conduct water and sand to the cord I see no worry driving them. Just might worth to refresh steers for cheer up and comfort.

There are actually 3 relays. One below the dash. One somewhere under the hood or a cab depending the truck is conventional or cabover and the last (and the largest) is the starter solenoid which carries a double function being both a solenoid to put the gear into the flywheel and a relay to connect starter's power contacts. What I would do is jumpering each one of them. The 2nd one is what to start from since usually it's accessable (mounted on the firewall on R's and CH's) and operates reasonable currents so jumperng it with a screwdriver wouldn't make much fireworks. If the crank starts spinning you look for anything wrong in the cab. If not your way is to investigate the starter.

Usually power steering equipped vehicles have larger caster angle since it's easier to "fight" the tendency to go straight and manual steering rigs have just light caster. On the other hand it could be the way FA-512 were bored with a light lean but had no caster wedges and once FA-53X were used with them the reason to add the angle to the bores disappeared.