Vladislav

I would sand up a little spot on the back side of the particular wheel with fine paper, mix what you have or going to apply and put a small drop on. Than when completely hard, after a few days or a week, I would try sanding the material off and notice how well it's got adhered to the surface. If Ok wash out the cracks with soapy water or acetone, dry with hot or compressed air and bite a bullet.

looks like the condition is good.

Very pleasant activity. And of a kind I really like. Made something like that with a Cruiseliner a few weeks back. With a difference I had the cranck spinned when was installing clutch before acting the starter. I got lucky with the starter after reconnecting jumper cables for a couple of hours. And even could start the engine (on the next day). But got an issue with the clutch not disengaging. Hope the greasing up you made would help. You typed "40km". Are you in Canada? Or anywhere else?

Acetone is not a good practice to add. It evaporates later and could "please" you up with such hairline cracks. Also I added acetone in the deep past into epoxy resin when made castings for modelbuilding. Wanted to minimize air bubbles decreasing surface film tension. And in 10 or so years later found out those castings became extremely brittle.

A while back I had luck purchasing a set of L-model hinges from Matt Pfahl at Bethlehem CT. Google Matt Pfahl restorations, he has web-site. A great guy and very helpful. P.S. L-model and B-model door hinges are almost different stories.

Sexy

Hope you're not going to kill it Sure kidding, congrats on the purchase. Vlad

This is an old pic someone posted somewhere in the past.

Wow! I'm prretty sure this internet-stolen picture was taken at that place. Thanks, marked on my travel book.

There was one W71 in Northwest Diesel yard indeed. But as long as I remember Mike never mentioned of purchasing it. I think there was a talk on purchasing the H but the deal didn't happen to happen.

Honestly it seems like no difference to me. Could be just imperfection of stamping.

There was a post a few years back telling that all the vehicles were gone off the Northwest Diesel yard. Also there were a couple of mentions on the H-model that showed up at another locating and than later at another place again. Some while after you posted this thread I made a phone call and spoke with Arden about the H. I even looked over a plan to visit the place and check out the truck when I was on my first US trip in 2013. But found out no time and power enough to so turned out I have never been there.

There's a prolongation of the steering column - a part that goes further to the firewall. It is attached to the firewall with nuts you can see from under the hood, actually the hood support brace attaching nuts, and also a pair of bolts which hold the column under the dash. I removed those attachment points and took the complete steering column off the cab. Than it's pretty easy to get access to the four bolts you was wondering about.

The turn light switch, trolley valve assembly, shifter lever knob and the steering wheel are definitely original and almost typical to Mack. Same for all the dash panels. The parking brake control to the left of the driver seat cushion is the most probably an aftermarket conversion.

The dash looks mostly original excepting the instruments. Those are usually seen of a different style. But of the same size excepting the speedo. One thing is for sure such dash is not typical to everything sold in USA, Canada or Europe. And to my mind Australia too. Not ready to tell about NZ. So the instruments could be possibly swapped during the service years or installed by the NZ assembly plant if they used such ones (I doubt on that though). So seems like a matter for further investigation keeping the focus of attention to NZ produced Macks. Or the instruments could be (easily?) swapped with units of the US type which are quite common and avalible from multiple sources including ebay.

Please do.

Seems like a few hundred trucks all over Europe which are branded Mack. Not many still in use but plenty of collection items. I might be wrong since I haven't roamed all European countries but about a half of.

This is a freshly restored (but original) Overdorp F-model which wore different colors during a bunch of years in the past. And its previous owner is a known to the comunity person, owns Liberty series RW now.

Hmm... Never saw anything like that here in Russia

Wonder did that thing run when parked ?... If the cab is in a reasonable condition the seller would have chances to add four and a half hundred to the content of his wallet.

Great to see the progress! And would be also cool to see the painted chassis soon

Checked out Ciat.com and found no truck tyres to fit 22 or 24 inch tube type rims. So seems like those are discontinued now.

P.S. As it was correctly pointed in the other thread some 12.00R24 tyres are currently offered as 325/95R24.

You can install 12.00R24 in place of your 11.00-24 as I did and the size increas would be sufficient but not crytical. Also you would get a bit higher road speed at the same RPMs. The tallest tubeless tyre you can fit using Budd wheels is 12R24.5.

Chinese tyres seem quite good, plenty of people use them overhere. I even tried a fortune and bought a pair for fronts on my car, 245/45R18 with 240km/h speed index. So far so good. But those tube ones for a truck are only known as 12.00R24 not 11.00 to me.