Vladislav

I have a 1945 Mack truck (tandem rears) and its bearings designed to spin on grease. But there are additional seals in the jack shaft flanges to separate gear oil from the bearings. So my suggestion is your wheels spin on oil. Or maybe the outer seals also took place and someone removed them in the past. To be sure I would look in a E-model parts list or maintenance manual for the hub assembly design.

The link works very well. Once again thanks for sharing those beautiful show pics.

Nope, a different origin this time. But the optional equipment is nice.

Yup. Definitely.

Actually the truck in the picture was the 2nd generation Superliner with older hood installed. So my guess is the doors went off the same early truck as the hood. Funny if there was the only unit painted that way and its hood ended up on this truck.

Good points. Another idea is to put a thread in the Firetrucks section of the site with a question of something like CF automatic tranny issue. Plenty of former or actual firefighters pay attention to that particular forum and if there's any special switch put by means of pump operation or so the answer would be right on a surface.

Seems making sence for a RL.

Speaking the automatic transmission I would suggest two possible matters of the issue. Worth to point out I have never dealt with hydromechanical units on big trucks. But rebuilt them on Mercedes cars of 70's and 80's years. The principles seem the same. The transmission has hydraulic "brains" - multi-valve hydraulic control unit which directs oil pressure to some shift cylinder or another which makes gear change. There are two main parameters the tranny figures out when to shift (or not to shift) - vehicle speed and the throttle pedal position. The logic is simple. More speed and reasonable or low gas - upshift. Low speed with plenty of gas (load) - stay in gear or lower it. Higher speed - upshift. High speed and full gas - downshift for maximum acceleration - "kick down". Ok, the tranny knows both those parameters by some way. The speed usually measures inside the transmission buy special valve connected to the output shaft. You should be an automatic transmission rebuilder to get to it to check or fix if needed. Gas measure provides much more simple usually by a linkage or a cable which connects vehicle's throttle linkage and something sticking out the transmission. Usually a small lever or so. You just observe the tranny for something that connects it with the gas control and operates together with it. The important for the matter point is if the throttle is settled for "full gas" for the transmission (jammed or wrong set linkage) the tranny would suggest it as a full load. And it wouldn't upshift staying in the 1st gear. A variation of the issue could be if the tranny is equipped with special "kick down" control. In cars there usually is an electric switch put below the throttle pedal. So when you press the pedal full way down the switch connects its contacts and supplys electric power to a solenoid in the tranny. The latter opens or closes certain oil passage in the control module (the "brains") and orders the tranny to downshift. Usually if the spoken switch gets short connected (jammed) the tranny starts from 1st gear and continues driving in it no matter how fast you try to go. My suggestion is a big truck or a bus may have a dash switch or a knob for hand operated kick-down so you should watch for anything like that in your rig. All written above could be count as "simple reasons". If you found nothing of those another matter could be the brains - hydraulic control unit. It's quite complicated assembly mounted inside the transmission and can be accessed with the lower (oil) pan removed. You need a rebuilder to check it out of another unit to swap in in a hope for correct operation. In some cases no upshifting can be determined by incorrect operation of the speed valve. Usually hydro-mechanic tranny has a few plugs at the outside to connect a check oil line and pressure gauge. It allows to control the main operational pressure (no vehicle move if it's fail) and that "speed" or the output shaft spinning pressure (every control signal in those trannys is a pressure since it's hydraulic not electric). I have such checks done using just a common pressure gauge and a hose with a fitting suitable for the tranny connectin. But I had a repair manual for the particular unit I dealt with. All in all you have good chances with finding the "simple" reasons and if no my next step would be a search for an old automatic tranny specialist. My guess is a car tech could also find the issue if at least has any interest in doing that. Vlad

No words, just emotions!

Big difference between European and American gearboxes is the first have synchronizers. Those allow you to force the lever slowly and after waiting for a bit of time the traction eliminates the speed difference between the engaging splines. Theory tells this style of the shifting mechanics is less reliable since the weakest point in the tranny is synchronizers. In practic it looks to me like good quality units work about forever.

After getting upset from hearing trrr for half a minute you push the lever stronger and get it in

Paul, sounds like your tastes are simple I wish you to make all your wishes true but not really soon with that particular one. Here we doing well with Covid as it looks to me. The country functions and the most people don't really care about the virus to the moment. Acually there were about no limitations just a week back excepting wearing masks when inside public buildings with all restaurants, hotels and stadiums open. This passed week some increase of the illnesses occured so the government put some back and started forcing the people to vaccinate. It's not a must to every citizen so far but they turned it out you became a must for many professions such as medicals, transport, sales, food and many others who supposed to get in contact with unlimited amount of people. I personally haven't got the vaccine so fare because I'm sure I passed through the deciese about a year back. Didn't make the test but the sympthoms were very meaning. On the other hand plenty of people I knew took the vaccination (Sputnic-V is used here and it's free) and nobody had troubles after that as long as I heard.

Great!

That's really nice daycab F-model. And that NO PARKING sign definitely takes attention.

Mike, have you grabbed it? If so it seems like a great addition to the collection. I also miss the show and nice folks in PA. The only good thing I feel the isolation is an excuse for long unfinished projects. Less travels mean more shop activity. But our hobby is nice due to multiple sides. Like a diamond Hope you had a lot of fun at the show.

Very interesting to see the environment you blokes live in in person. I keep attention to what you post and tell about the brown land but seems you do never understand before see it by your eyes. I hope this new reality will calm down at a certain time and the borders get open. Thanks for sharing with us your part of the world.

That Autocar firetruck is a bomber. Even more looks like a Packard than Autocar.

Looks like a not really warm day. And I see no rain. Anything wrong with the weather? Or with my understanding of 10 really hot months and two wet ones?

WoW! Thanks. A few familiar trucks but plenty of unseen ones.

Isn't this the case? https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/56715-1985-superliner/

Would be interesting to connect an oscillograph to the sensor put either in cast iron and alu housing and watch for actual signal shape. I personally have never done such checks but my dad was all over that matter at his job.

Paul, if you ever have one of those big covers off again it would be a good activity to take a piece of pencil and paper and write the number of teeth each of the gears of the top set has. You can't count the lower set teeth as I pointed but having the top set figures you can "count out" the ratio knowing existing combo's. Just let me know if you have any interest in the figuring.

Yes, I have mechanical E7 and E6-350 with electronic tach and the sensor put in the flywheel housing. E7 has a cast iron one.

Might be a distance from the flywheel teeth to the sensor along the teeth length. I mean the sensor put further to the back of the truck or close to its front. Or another and more troublefull issue due to different magnetic properties of cast iron relating to aluminium.

I never heard about Mack 5.29 diffs. They were 5.32 or 5.13. If a real interest I'd jack up a tyre and count the prop shaft revs after spinning the wheel 10 or 20 turns. Another way is removing that big side cover off a carrier and make the teeth count. Sharp method but the issue you only can see the top gear set. No access to the bull gear excepting removing the carrier off the banjo.