Vladislav

But it's cheap and as said there it's running.

Was the frame stretched up or they used a different frame? Doesn't H-model frame have the same style rails as a B-model do?

As MikeD said. You should be careful about big flat "unsupported" areas like hood and door shells. Just do many times spraying sand from longer distance. I work together with my "blast guy". He wears a full dress with helmet and can't see rust perfect through his glass. So he makes blast and than I comes close to check out. Make marks with a piece of chalk and he repeats there. Up to 4 times to get it clean completely. I was told you can easily deform a car's roof or hood (bonnet). With Mack R-model parts I had no issues so far.

Tom, I don't remember your chief (or it was dispetcher Randy?) sent you that far. Thank you for sharing the road pictures, I've never crossed the river of Missisippy. That KW in the mirror looks worth the picture. As for Heavy Gunner's shots... It seems not many chances to buff bugs off a windscreen. Especially wearing a Winfall style clothes Currently you can find something like that overhere on the local roads. -15 -20 Celsias for the two last weeks.

No body filler or speedy sleeve where bearing seats. There's a stress area and it should be repaired good. Might be welded up but you should take care about heat since the part itself has thermo treat. There are shops wich apply "plasma" method or some other way of metal spraying on. Locally a friend of mine helps me bringing parts to the halvanic shop where they put chrome onto worn off area. Not a thick lay though, up to 0.3 mm so maximum 0.6 mm diameter increas is possible that way. After any metal "grow up" or "spay/weld on" it needs machining. For the best it would be grinding. The most machine shop can do that, I just use to come to the guys who grind crankshafts. They must center the part perfect and need some other not damaged co-axial surface to check correct center.

Nice place to look all those old truck pictures. Probably alot of stories either. Sorry if he'll cancel the site.

Some while back Mike Superdog shared pics from Keystone Tractor Museum. That truck was there on the display. I see one more H63 in that picture, the yellow one in the back row, right behind the cab of the amber truck. Is that a yellow H-model Matt Pfahl restored for someone?

If your cab is a naked skeleton it wouldn't be a great issue to remove sand with a compressed air. Sure outside. The most trouble is seams and other sammich areas where you're not able to take rust from in between's. So it worth to observe every doubty spot on how to work it out. Maybe open some splices drilling off weld spots to get a gap between parts wich allows you to blast inside. Anyway scratch off, remove or cut out everything you don't need in the cab before blasting. Overall it takes some while for a good preparation but as a pay back you get all ready surface to cover with primer and than continue working where weld/hit repairs are required only. And with incomparable level of rust clean.

From the pictures it looks very nice. And I'd note that's a kind of reasonable listing whan a reasonable price makes very reasonable interest.

I was just wanting to ask "where's the cab??" That hood hinge cap damage area looks strange indeed. But you never know where such an old lady roamed during all her lifetime. What's on the plan - sandblasting or wirewheeling? At least no rivet work is required

Welcome! Vlad

Bushings. Old trucks had brass ones, newer use poliurethane.

Mines were perfect as much as a chromed plastic part can be. I related them with the set on my 1988 R-model cab wich has a half chrome gone and they looked almost the same including the lenses. I still keep some crazy idea to find a shop wich would be able to reproduce their bodies of copper by halvanic way. Saw model builders made scale car bodies that way but it was no less than 20 years back and I lost the track. Putting real chrome on a copper body would make it shine forever. But taking to account those made in China SLC's cost it's much easier just to get a spare set.

Any roof parts inside the cab or you going to keep it "cabrio"? Great find.

There's Timken drive axle at front. Wonder about the transfer case, suggest Timken either. And it seems to me they don't put the cab much higher but lowered the front fenders.

Hope you'll go smooth through al the story. Would like to see a progress. And just forgot to mention, I'm agree on the black with red strips paint scheme idea. Would look cool on my mind.

Neil, thank you for the great explanations. Now I can see both the original front axle setup's had rubber pads, neither spring shakles and so on.

As said above! Do you have any pics of the Lanova off it? I'm almost in love with them and see no way to divorce until I get my one running. Vlad

I might be more lucky being born already learned of what OTR is..

Wow, I didn't know that. Thank you for sharing, ran out of likes for now.

Fingers crossed Rowdy. Today checking the local email site I read about the flood in St Louis area and thought to myself there was nothing on BMT about it. Now I found out what I've missed. My hopes for the best for you.

3 axles for tandem is how we count it here. And in Europe also. Diffirent L's had some different hanger styles along the years but they looked similar in general. All the LT's I was able to put my nose close to looked like an almost different truck about the chassis. I checked out no less than 10 vehicles. For instance the well known blue example at Mahan's has the front springs wich look much more as a R-model 3 leaf setup. Although I'm just not shure it was from the factory.

Yes, he does.

I"m not a firetruck specialist but from what said I agree on the matter of "something simple". Those shop guys seem "too high cualified diesel techs" to not be able figure out a gasser issue or as was mentioned above have no much interest in bringing the truck to life. Too might be the both reasons. I'd try to take a look to a common mechanic who just used to deal with old Camaro's or other big carb gas cars. That sure is truck and with a complicated engine but the general princips are almost the same. I'd do it right at the yard it is now for first, to not spend cash on towing. By the word from your point that it was running and and then didn't start after some storage while it might be just a gas quality issue. And would say it's a nice looking truck, I too hope you'll not have to sell it. Vlad