Licensed to kill

And voila. Hub pilots on FA 505 axle. Hope this helps. It was a really simple process but I would have MUCH rather been able to do the machining and shoe lining myself. That would have made it a pretty cost effective conversion.

I searched but was unable to find a drum that was the correct depth. I needed 10" and the closest I could find was 9.75. They would have probably worked but the inner edge of the drum would have been right at the inner edge of the shoe. I didn't like that so I bought the common 10.5 deep drums and had them machined down 1/2" for a perfect fit ($300 + the cost of the drum).

Then I could use the stock bearings for the 505 axle and the hubs would fit the spindle. The stock Dayton drums were 16" ID but new drums are 16.5" ID so to fix that, I had the shoes relined with thicker lining (they were 1/4" thick and was replaced with 1/2" thick). I looked but could not find lining anywhere on the net so I had to take the shoes to a place that does brake and clutch lining and have them done ($500). I though that more than a bit rich but it had to be done and the advantage of having them do it was that I told them that they were going with a 16.5" ID drum and they speced the lining accordingly.

With race installed.

I then made interference fit inserts to press into the hub with the internal dimensions copied from the stock Dayton hub.

It was a pretty simple process. I got a set of hubs off a late model Mack I don't know what model as I am not all that familiar with Macks but a CH maybe?? (I believe that any hubs from any truck will do, I just uses Mack because the guy I got the engine from has dozens of them and gave me the hubs for free). I then had to take the hubs to a machine shop and have the shoulders for the races machined out and a small shoulder machined in for the insert to index to ($400). They were too big for my lathe. EDIT, the index shoulder that I referred to, shown in the picture, was for the outside bearing only. I used the existing seal shoulder on the inside as an index. Just thought I should clarify.

....but I just finished converting the FA505 steer axle on my B-61 from Dayton to Hub pilot budds. It is unfortunate that I had to hire out a couple operations that made the project rather costly but often you just have to "buck up" to get what you want. It would have been quite cost effective had I had a lathe big enough to handle the hubs and drums.....but I don't. Oh well, it's done so now I will not have mismatched wheels front and back. On to the next "Challenge" to the pocket book.

I have only seen chrome Dayton rims on a couple of trucks and they have always been from Australia. I LOVE the look with the Mack hubcaps and this is what I was planning for my B61 but alas, I could not convert the rear axle that I am using to Daytons so I am converting the front to hub pilot Budds instead. The cost to chrome the Dayton rims was..............painful (quoted $550CAD each) compared to new Alcoa's for $350CAD.

80" of 1/2" copper tube off the compressor was the old standard. Steel tube would work as well but will have corrosion issues inside.

Perhaps this will explain why.

I do not tell anyone what they should do regarding the shot. the truth is, IMO that nobody knows what is the right thing to do. Anyone that thinks they know FOR SURE what the right answer is is a fool. There are just WAY too many unknowns as far as the long term affects of the shot AND the long term affect of the virus. Personally, I got the shot at my doctors recommendation. If I had it to do over again, I would not have done it but it is done and it is what it is. I CAN say with conviction that I will NOT be getting any "boosters".

That is similar to what I did the one and only time I went to Vegas. Playing black jack, I would start with $10 and when that was gone, I left the table. If I was up by $10, I would put that $10 in my pocket and when the $10 on the table was gone I would leave the table and so on. Most I could lose in one sitting was $10 and once I was up by $10, the worst I could do was break even.

Somehow reminds me of the joke about the guy using the outhouse. Stands up to pull up his pants and some change falls out of his pocket and down the hole. He reaches in his pocket, pulls out a $20 bill and throws it down the hole. The guy next to him exclaims "What the hell are you doing, why would you throw $20 down the hole??". The other guy replies, "you don't think I am going to go down there for 75 cents do you???".

That DOES answer to one question I had, that being should I assemble the front clip and THEN put it on the chassis or assemblymen;e it on the chassis. However, the BIG question was how did they get it to that point. As I recall there are several bolts that are quite difficult to access.

I am dreading putting they thing back together. Not real sure how to even DO it yet. Of course, everything will have to be painted first so that will just add to the "fun".

That must have been post 1959 as I have taken 2 of those apart and there is NOTHING easy about taking the grill shell/inner fenders/headlight bezels apart. Don't know how they assembled that mess on an assembly line.

Sound familiar to anyone???

Thanks. All for nothing really since as soon as I stick it down between the fender of my B61 you won't be able to see much of it. No matter, It's just my OCD at work I suppose. Its why I even changed all the oil pan bolts to yellow zinc grade 8's because they look better as if anyone will see them. I guess it is like when I was a kid with my '57 chevy and put new chrome jug nuts under the baby moon hub caps because "I knew they we there".

I wonder if it is a "B" block.

Actually, you should say "the original colour". The "correct" colour for an individuals engine is the colour THEY like and choose. I painted my E6 the "correct" colour for MY project, Model A Ford green.

LOL, yeah, some days I'm thinking "no problem getting done by spring" and other days "there is NO WAY I'm going to get this done by spring". I just keep telling myself that every bolt I remove is one step closer to being done. However, since the chassis is pretty much done except for air lines and wiring and the cab is completely stripped, I'm not sure there are any more bolts to remove (not counting all the stuff that I put together wrong and have to take apart again). Bt the time I get done I will have done 3 trucks since I seem to do everything 3 times before I get it right LOL. I hauled the cab and all the other sheet metal 3 1/2 hours one way to the blaster to have it all media blasted so I can start the body work, got there and realized that I forgot the doors DOH!!!!. So, now sometime in the next week I have to load up the doors and make another trip (THAT SUCKS). In the mean time, I scored a set of hub pilot hubs for the steering axle and will start on modifying them to fit the B's spindles. I have lots to do (other than the hub conversion) while the cab is at the blasters, I can make my SS visor (using the parts cab as a "template") and I still need to modify the SS mirror brackets to fit the B doors, that sort of thing. Gotta stay busy if I have any chance of finishing on schedule.

Thanks. I don't know any other way to do it other than stripping it right down. Felt kinda wrong to blast and paint the fame without removing the front suspension first but did it anyways. There won't be much that I DON'T know about this truck by the time it's done.

You are correct. I thought something looked different but couldn't;t put my finger on it. Thought it was the mixer that made it look different but the hood is definitely shorter. Good eye.

I may have misunderstood what I was told. Wouldn't be the fist time. Thanks.

That thing is in great shape. Congrats. I just watched a youtube of a "64 B422"??? and it had the same air cleaner as on this truck but recently, I was told here that the "strapless" can was pre '59 and now this is the second truck from the mid 60's to sport one. A bit confusing.