Licensed to kill

Yes. Mine is a 1981 and the air cooling is air and water. I understand the the location of the shutters doesn't matter, it was just an observation. My 1989 Ford LTL had the shutters behind the rad and I had a guy say that he preferred them that way as they protected the rad from rocks off the front tires.

I was out getting a few parts from the guy I bought the engine from. He said that whatever parts I need I can have. He has a veritable wrecking yard of Mack trucks and sheds full of parts. Anyways, He was showing me a truck he just got and said that I can take whatever I wanted from it. As we were looking it over he said that it was probably a 350 as it has the intercooler in front of the rad. It also had shutters but the shutters were behind the rad instead of in front like the older models. His son was mentioning that he had never seen an engine like the one I bought before. The turbo is tall and skinny as opposed to short and stout like all the others, and he never seen a 350 with the cooler on the intake, always in front of the rad.

What was causing the "skipping"?.

I had a 1987 Ford LTL9000 with a 3406 CAT that had factory shutters and the shutter stat was still available. Might have to look outside of the B model mack parts to find one but there should be some out there yet. A shutter stat is a shutter stat, doesn't have to be from/for a Mack to work.

I don't recall, ever seeing a B ,model without shutters so IMO it's safe to say that they were fitted from new. Most R models run shutters also, to many IMO to think that they are all after market.

I looked it up and the reason for the fan blades being asymmetrical is to reduce noise. There are also some that suggest that it is to provide access to bolts but it seems that this is not the primary reason. Anyways, the comment about room for a clutch hub on a B is valid. Thinking on when I took the fan off of the B, there is no way there would be room for a fan clutch without some mods such as suggested by theakerstwo. I'll just run the fixed fan that came off the B and see how that goes.

I have a 1981 E6-237 and a 1981 E6-350, both are identified on the plate on the side of the block behind the injection pump.

Pretty much. In my case, the engine cruising RPM will be 1250 so I doubt that noise or power will be an issue. I certainly can put a clutch hub on mine and probably will. My question was more about the size (diameter) and also the curiosity of why they are asymmetrical.

When I got the engine to put in my B61, the fan was pooched. Got bent when the truck was wrecked. The guy I got the engine from said that he had another fan that I can have. However, being the not so patient guy that I am I thought, I would just take the fan off of the 673 in my B61 and use that. Well, I don't have the fan from the engine anymore (threw it away awhile ago) but it looks like the fan off the B61 is quite a bit smaller than what I remember of the other fan. It was also fixed and did not have the clutch (that was also broken in the wreck) that the engine came with. So, my question is, is there any reason to NOT use the smaller fan from the B61 in a fixed mount out should I get the bigger fan with the clutch?. I question the value of the bigger fan since the small one is the right width for the B61 rad and going bigger would make the fan bigger than the rad and therefore IMO of no benefit. While on the topic of engine fans, why is it that they don't make the fan blades symmetrical??. There is always one blade out of sync with the others.

Looking at that truck reminds me of one of the MANY reasons I am grateful I don't live in Europe.

Yes and yes.

Any thoughts on adjusting the dynatard switches in the valve covers??. I had to remove them to blast/paint the covers and I broke one off. Was able to get the broke piece out of the cover and have a line on a replacement (from the guy I got the engine from) but can get a new one if needed. Because they were removed they will need to be reset but i have no clue how.

It is a 2 valve. Te harmonic balancer has a scale starting with "TC" and going up to 35 degrees. I assume "TC" means "top centre". Then there are the marks at 120 degree intervals marked for 2&5 and 3&4 for setting those valves. I have it set on "TC" with #6 rocking and #1 with lash so that should be #1 TDC firing. As it sits, exhaust is pretty close to 24thou but the intake is tight by a few thou.

And 16 intake?

I did a search and found a thread that lists 16thou intake and 24thou exhaust for a 676. Sounds reasonable but just want to confirm that this are the proper settings for a 1981 E6-350. Since the valves pretty much straddle the manifold ports it is not obvious as to which are int and which are exh but i am assuming that the ones with the big honking jam nut and some goofy looking centre with a snap ring are the exhaust, is this correct?.

So, I am in the process of painting my engine while the weather is nice and can do it outside. A couple friends came over last night and were looking at the engine and one asked "what year is it?". I said "I think it;s an 80 or 81, I'll check the tag". I had masked off the tag prior to painting but didn't really look at it so I look and say, " yup, manufacture date jan, '81". Then I notice something. I hadn't actually LOOKED at the tag, just took the guys word for it that it was a 676, 283HP. Nope. Apparently, it's an E6-350. Apparently I got a bigger herd than I thought. I guess i should have checked before asking specific questions about it (DUH) but at least I know now exactly what I have. Gonna set the valves while I have the covers off so it's good to know for sure to get the proper specs in case they are different.

My neighbour was looking to buy farmland in the late 90's. Asking price was $55,000 per 1/4. He said there's no way I'm paying $55,000 for land that was selling for $35,000 just a few years ago. That land is going for north of $400,000 per 1/4 today. I suspect that the guys that turned down Hemi cars in the 80's because they weren't going to pay $7-8000 for acre that they could have bought in the mid 70's for $1500 are kinda wishing they had pulled the trigger when they were $8,000. Same cars today fetch 6 figures.

A B-61 similar looking to the one in this thread sold at auction a few months ago and went for around $32,000CAD/ Like everything, they are worth whatever someone is willing to pay

My plan WAS to take the power steering box from an R model and adapt it to my B then just use that power steering pump that is already on the compressor of my 285. However, upon further observation, not so easy. So, my searches have yielded comments that suggest that with radial steer tires, power steering is not really required on a B as they steer quit nice. I will, of course be running radial steers (11R 22.5) so am wondering if going for power steering may be an un-necessary endeavour. I bring this up today because i am painting the engine and if I am NOT going to be using the power steering pump then I will remove it and make a block off plate before painting the compressor (assuming that I can just remove it and put a block off plate in it's stead). Thoughts??.

Bought the diff for my B-61 project. Went with the 2.53 gear. I couldn't use the first one I was looking at as it had disc brakes and i want to run daytons but they had another with drums and locker for the same price. 2016 Detroit with 70,000 miles on it, airliner suspension. This will put me at 1250 RPM at 60 MPH. I found the torque spec on my engine and peak torque is @ 1200 RPM so I figure my operating range will be 1000 to 1800 RPM with the TRXL 107 trans that I will be running. Oh, and they are to throw in a pair of dayton hubs with the diff so I don't have to rob them off my parts truck. Hoping to sell the rear clip complete.

Thanks. I am, also looking for the torque curve as i have 2 diffs I am considering. The one will put me at 1400RPM @ 60MPH and the other at 1250RPM @ 60 MPH and am deciding which would be the best. I am a believer that an engine is at it's most efficient at or near peak torque so if I can find the torque curve i can choose which diff to use. This truck will NOT being pulling anything heavy (holiday trailer) and if i can keep the RPM down it should be reasonably quiet and if it cruises at/near peak torque should pull great and be best on fuel (not that this is a HUGE concern). Any thoughts on this would be welcomed.

My engine is a 1980, 283HP with the air to air as part of the intake manifold. Ian told it i a 676 ENDT but have also been told it is an E-6. Is it one or the other or are these two monikers for the same engine?. Also, where would i find the torque curve for this engine?.

I have no suggestions. The best I can come up with is watch the most right wing "news" station you can find, then watch the most left wing "news" station you can find and only consider that which they both agree on and reject all else.

I have another question. Where do you find actual "news" to watch every night? I would be interested in that.