Licensed to kill

Agree. I am one that believes that the owner has the right to do as he/she pleases but get dismayed when they choose to modify a pristine example. I'm also into Model A fords and often see guys buy a REAL nice stock car (usually restored) and proceed to chop, channel and hotrod it. To my way of thinking that is what you do with cars that already need a lot of work anyways. To their way of thinking it's cheaper and easier to start with a pristine car than start with a wreck. I get that and, like i said, they have the right to do as they please but it still saddens me somewhat.

I checked that out. If I machine them down it would cut into the studs for the rim.

That is great news. Now that I know they exist, I will hold out for a set. Thanks

That's right because we all KNOW that viruses are so much bigger than paint particles********* (and dust since the N95 mask that is so often touted is a dust mask).

I was only going by what i found here https://www.toyotires.ca/sites/default/files/imce/Databook_mdtrktrs_Comparison_Pg_25.pdf It's not THAT critical as i am not going to be mixing tires next to each other, just steer to drive and i don't want to go any taller than I have to on the back.

Thanks for looking. I'm very doubtful that what I want can be found. I doubt that running 22.5 on the steers and 24.5 on the drive will be noticeable and i already have the steer tires so I guess this is what i will go with. The difference between the 285/75 and 11's is only 2" overall height so, you are right, doesn't make much difference but since i don't have any 24.5 drive tires I may as well get the ones that match the front for height. There are ALWAYS compromises to be made when mixing and matching parts from different rigs so I'm not overly surprised have to adjust my "vision".

I DO have one other option. I could use the daytons hubs i have and go with 285/75R25.5 tires witch are the same height as the 11R 22.5 steers I plan to use. The 24.5 rims are not what i wanted exactly but I may have to consider them.

Yes, I had read that in a thread during one of my searches. If I was to use a budd hub, I expect to have to bush the spindle to accept bearings and that I would have to grease the bearings as i doubt that I could cobble oil bath to the spindles.However, I suspect that the spindles may be too short and, if so, nothing i can do about that. Even though going budds would cost about half what it would cost to go dayton, I really would rather change the rears to dalyons. If anyone knows what make/model diff would have 8 on 7" axle bolts on daytons that would accept 20/22.5" rims, I would be in your debt if you let me know where to look. Prefer 5 spoke but 6 spoke would be fine.

Spent the better part of the day measuring axle bolt pattern on mack dayton rears and budd steers. Does;'t look likely that i will be finding racers that will work so now i am looking to change the steers to budd. Not having much luck there either but will know more once i can get one apart and measure up the spindle. I THINK I can knock them off at the king pins and bush them to fit but the steering arm in integral and won't really work on the one I was looking at. The other, which is an hour away, I took pics but didn't take any measurements. Looks like a pretty heavy axle, 16,000+ so..............??

I am in Northern Alberta, about an hour south of Peace River.

Got looking at the dayton hubs that I have and while they DO have the proper axle bolt pattern (8 on 7"), they are too big. Must be for 24.5's. So now I'm on the hunt for some hubs with the proper axle bolt pattern that will accept 20/22.5" rims. Prefer 5 spoke but 6 would be fine. Don;t even know if such an animal exists. If not I will have to somehow change the front to buddy but I don;t want to do that, OR have custom axles made and i really donuts want to have to do that either. If anyone has any other options i am all ears.

I had seen one for sale several years ago that was a B42 IIRC. B42 is a gas job and IIRC it was advertised as "not running". Hard to compare condition based on a few pics but that one was up for $4500 IIRC and was still available a year later. Seems ti me it was in PA

The problem wth Trump was not his policies but his arrogant narcissism and his inability to keep his mouth shut. Don't get me wrong, ALL politicians are arrogant narcissists but the successful ones are the ones that can hide it from the public. Trump didn't hide it, in fact, he flaunted it. THAT was his achilles heal. Even so, enough people saw through it and focused on his policies that the Dems had to cheat BIG TIME to prevent him from continuing his attack on the systemic corruption in Washington on BOTH sides of the isle.

Not to highjack the thread but I have an uncle that was in the RCMP for 40 years (started in the mid 60's). He is also embarrassed to tell anyone what he did for a living. There are a few occupations that were once respectable but are no longer. RCMP and trucking are 2 great examples.

I was a member there for a couple years but left maybe 3 years ago for the same reasons mentioned.

Installed the hangars today so the wheelbase is set. Went with 156". This will give me just enough room behind the cab for a polished aluminum box to house my generator and a few misc tools and still clear the trailer in the extreme case that i have to jack knife it to get in or out of someplace.

I talked to the spring shop friday and gave him the measurements and he is going to see if tapered springs are available for this application. He sounded concerned about availability when i mentioned that the front of the spring is a straight slip joint (I forget what he called it) rather than an eye with shackles.

I'm putting airliner air ride from a 2016 freightshaker in it (with shocks of course).

Awesome. LOVE the trike. Might want to put some mirrors on it so he can learn to use them for backing up a trailer.

I agree. The little model A truck I posted I WAS running 32 PSI because that is just what I always run in car tires that size. Ran it that way for a few years before it occurred to me that this truck is SO light on the rear that I didn't need that much and that this could be contributing to the kidney cruncher ride. Dropped the pressures to what appeared the be he proper "squat", which turned out to be 24PSI and it made a significant improvement on the ride. Still rough but not as bad.

There are also 2 advantages to the short wheelbase-- better aesthetics and easier to back up a trailer. The easier handling of the longer wheelbase and the easier trailer backing of the shorter wheel base are not big concerns for me. It comes down to what is more important, better looks or better ride. If I was being practical, I would not even start this project as i have a REAL nice Dodge dually that I could put a 5th wheel in and pull the trailer. It's just like my hot rods. If I want comfortable, I will drive the Avalanche. The cab on the B is small and i don't expect it to be anywhere near as comfortable as my Pete. In fact, typing out this response to your post has put the wheelbase issue in perspective for me and reminded me what this project is all about. I will make the wheelbase where I think it looks best then do what i can to make the ride as good as it can get at that length. If it is a bit rough, so be it. Thanks to all that offered their thoughts.

This whole project will be "a lot of dicking around". That is OK. I enjoy making things work. Spent the better part of the day figuring out how to install a power steering box using the stock steering column. Unfortunately, the boxes i have access to (6 of them) appear to be unsuitable and the one that looks like it IS suitable is in my bucket truck which I bought for parts (one of those parts being the steering box) and now am thinking of keeping the truck intact (story of my life). A friend of mine has a bus that he bought for the engine. I'll check with him and see if it has air ride. Thanks for the tip. I don;t know that some buses had air ride on the steers.

So, the verdict is in. Pulled the motor from my '59 B61 and dropped the pan. The oil pump is NOT the same at all as that in my '81 E-6 350. Hope this helps others in future searches.

I just talked to my local spring shop and he is gong to see if taper leafs can be had for this application. I mentioned going to 1 or 2 leafs and an air bag in the middle and he said that would make if rougher as the air bag would act like a bump stop. To get "air ride" the bag need to be on one end to act like an air spring. Makes sense once he mentioned it. I really don't want a long wheel base but don't want a bone crusher either. I already have one of those, short wheel base with coil overs.

That is what I was thinking of doing if it was too rough. If I'm not mistaken, you have air ride in yours??