Licensed to kill

So, the verdict is in. Pulled the motor from my '59 B61 and dropped the pan. The oil pump is NOT the same at all as that in my '81 E-6 350. Hope this helps others in future searches.

I just talked to my local spring shop and he is gong to see if taper leafs can be had for this application. I mentioned going to 1 or 2 leafs and an air bag in the middle and he said that would make if rougher as the air bag would act like a bump stop. To get "air ride" the bag need to be on one end to act like an air spring. Makes sense once he mentioned it. I really don't want a long wheel base but don't want a bone crusher either. I already have one of those, short wheel base with coil overs.

That is what I was thinking of doing if it was too rough. If I'm not mistaken, you have air ride in yours??

I hadn't considered that but am thinking that, should it be to rough on the steering axle that I could go air ride there as well.

Doing a restomod B61 single axle for pulling my holiday trailer. Was just going to stay with the wheelbase on the first truck until I picked up one of my parts trucks that has a shorter wheelbase and thought "I really like that shorty wheelbase". The one truck has a 166" and the other 147". I know the shorter I go the choppier it will ride but I am going with air ride so i can run low pressure in the bags and also, since I'm not hauling heavy, lower pressure in the tires. This SHOULD mitigate the choppy ride somewhat, just don;t know how much. I can set the wheelbase anywhere i want <166", just looking for some thoughts in case I am overlooking something. I WAS going to build a box to go behind the cab for my generator and perhaps a few tools which I won't have much room for @ 147"

Will be pulling the 673 END out of a 1959 B61 today. Motor is pooched.Couldn't get it to turn over 360 degrees. Don't know why. Drained the oil and don't know what came out but it did 't look like oil to me. Looked more like dirty diesel fuel. anyway, is there any demand for the peripherals if they are still good, compressor, injection pump, heads, crank, cam etc. or should i just haul the whole thing to scrap??. I'm not one to throw away things that are still serviceable but I am trying to NOT keep stuff around that will just sit here for ever cluttering up the place (like I usually do).

IMO building cars with LHD and driving on the right makes sense.There REALLY isn't much difference either way. However, there is one minor factor that IMO dictates that LHD should be the preferred configuration and that is the fact that the majority of people are right handed so it makes sense (to me) to put the shifter on the drivers right. There are a lot of things in society that are designed for right handed people because it serves the majority.

I will figure all this out on my own (then will share what I find to help others doing similar projects). Just asking in case someone has already "invented this wheel" so I can just proceed with confidence rather than trial and error. Kinda like walking in the dark. I will get where I'm going cautiously feeling my way but would be easier if someone that knows the path could tell where to and not to step (if you know what I mean).

LOL. Understood. I never really liked daytons. However, I'm doing a B-61 and IMO, the steers on a B Model don't look right with polished budds and the daytons with the "Mack" script cap look really good to me so I'm sticking with the spokes. Putting a diff from a 2016 Freightshaker with air ride and have to covert them. Pretty sure I'm the only guy in history to change hub pilots to spokes. FWIW, my brother prefers spokes over hub pilots because they never come loose and they never crack. The only sad part is that to use the 8 bolt axles I have to use newer spokes that are somewhat square, not rounded like the ones that came on the B's. The chance of using the hubs that came with the truck with the 6 bolt axles on this much newer diff is pretty remote to say the least. I'll be running 10.00R20's in the rear (again, because the 20" rim just looks right on these trucks) and 11R22.5 on the steer (to eliminate the split ring AND because tires are easy to get).

I will be doing the opposite, changing hub pilots to 6 spoke daytons. I am told that the inner bearing on the spokes is smaller than on the budds and that there is not a bearing available to fit so I may have to have the spoke hub machined to accept a bigger race. What did you find regarding bearing sizes?.

Does the END 673 (1959) and the E-6 350 2 valve (1981) use the same oil pump?. If so, can the pump be removed from the 673 through the round cover in the pan sump?.

Whats wrong with that?. I have 4 model A fords (3 hot rods and one stock) a '57 Chevy short step BBW, a 1944 IH firetruck, a '35 Ford 1 1/2 ton wrecker and i just picked up my 3rd B-61 yesterday. If you are nuts, what does that make me??. R model macks are plentifull and cheap and would make a great "cruiser" IMO. Would be awesome if you found a good early one with the steel dash (something I didn't even know existed until "doubleclutchinweasel" introduced me to them). Don't hold back (but don't snap up the first one you find unless it's exactly what you want for a good price). There are lots available and parts galore.

Still gathering info for my B61 project and am looking at the trans swap. I read somewhere that the bell housing/clutch had to be used from the B61 because the Lever points UP on the factory TRXL-107 and points DOWN on the b61 plex trannys. I did a search but can't find where i had seen it or any reference to it. Is this a straight swap and if so, what parts from the plex trans do i need to use with the 6spd?.

So, just to be sure, just remove the three bolts that bolt the pump to the cover, remove the rear support and pull it out? (after all lines and linkages etc are removed of course). Replacing the coolant hose while the pump is off is sound advice. I already did replace that coolant hose and yes it was a PITA.

Not sure what kind of pictures but here are a few. If more are required just let me know what angles are needed. Thanks.

I have an oil leak that appears to be from on of the side plates on the block behind the injection pump. The pump will need to be removed to get to it. What is the procedure for removing the pump and reinstalling it without messing up the timing?. Engine is a 1981 E6-350 2 valve.

Yup, not a big deal. I called the guy I got the engine from and he said to just go poke around the sheds and see if i can find one. I didn't find one so he said he would check with his boys on tuesday to see which engine they can open up to pull an oil pump from from. In the mean time i will order a pan gasket and blast and paint the pan.

Found the problem. After exhausting everything I could think of I finally broke down and pulled the pan. The pick-up was broke off the oil pump. Looking at the broken opening to the pump and lining it up with the dip stick I can see that the oi level was about half way up the opening so when i started the engine, the pump could get some oil but as soon as it pumped that oil upstairs the level would drop to the point that the pump starved and the pressure would drop off. The pick-up must have broke off when the truck was rolled and the oil level was higher when i initially started it up so it didn't starve.

Interesting comment about the filters. When I took the filters off to remove that housing/cooler, I noticed that they were only about 2/3 - 3/4 full. I thought "how can that be???". After I had this issue and had to take it all apart again, again the filters were only 2/3 - 3/4 full. I don't know how that can be possible but there it is. These filters are new NAPA filters so should be made by Wix and would have about MAYBE 10 minutes total run time on them.

As near as i can tell. I looked that up and see that there a few different ones but appears that I have the correct one for this engine.

Yes, and you are right, ya never know LOL.

I went out and looked and there is a spring loaded plunger going sideways in the base of the housing. Took the end cap off and removed the spring. Spring is clean and the plunger moves freely. Put the spring back and the cap.

Relief valve????. What would that look like?.

I painted my engine last week (E6-350) which involved removing the oil cooler/filter housing. Yesterday, I decided to fire it back up to check for leaks and such. I started it and let it run for maybe a minute, then walked around to the left side and noticed that I didn't have oil pressure. I shut the engine off and considered this for a bit, filters where installed full, why no pressure after about a minute?????. So I restarted it and watched the cause and after 10-20 seconds the pressure starts to come up. Whew. The pressure goes up to about 35lbs then backs off to 28 (which is where it runs at idle), sits for a few seconds then slowly drops all the way to zero and stays there. WTF!!!. I shut the engine off, ponder awhile, I'm at a loss so I start it back up again. Pressure comes u to 28 then goes back down to zero. Shut it off. Thinking this through I have no clue what is going on. I start it back up and let it for for perhaps 30 seconds, no pressure. OK, so this is getting annoying. I change gauges. nothing, I remove the gauge and put a hose to a pail, crank it over a bit, nothing comes out. I did have an oil leak at the base where the filter pedestal bolts to the block so, under protest, I remove the oil cooler/filter housing. I blow air through the passage from the block to the filters and they are clear. I blow air through the gauge port and it is clear. I crank the motor and oil burps out the port in the block so the pimp is working. The ONLY thing I have left is that perhaps i just didn't wait long enough for the cooler to fill BUT, why did it make pressure then fall off???.

Yes they can and if you are underpowered or JUST enough power to do the job, that can be significant. However, if you are producing 300HP and only require 150 HP do do what you are doing, 50HP to run the fan will matter little.