Licensed to kill

Thanks. I am going to try to find out, just wanted to see of it had already been tried first.

.......or anyone else that has tried to convert Dayton steers to Budds. Did you look into hubs from something smaller than a class 8 truck, like perhaps a school bus or the like?. The spindle being somewhat small on the B may be similar in size to something like a 5 ton truck, cube van or school bus. I could be wrong but I believe that the bolt pattern is the same. As long as the distance between the inner and outer bearing is the same, bearing size can be managed I would think.

One thing to consider regarding classic trucks (and cars for that matter) sitting and "rotting" in some yard where the owner won't sell and will never do anything with them is that, often, when the owner acquired these "gems" they were NOT classics but just old iron that otherwise would have gone to the crusher 30-40 years ago if some eccentric did not snap them up. They may have degraded substantially since being parked but they still exist and the eccentric owner that will not part with them will not live forever and at some point, the estate will deal with the relics. The important thing is to stay in contact so the estate (when the time comes) is aware that there are people interested and not to just call the scrap dealer to get rid of them. Even if they are rotted right into the ground, there are STILL some parts that will be useable that would be LONG gone if they weren't "collected" by the current owner and went to the crusher 40 years ago.

Great news. Very much looking forward to seeing the video.

The Alberta government recently reported a 14 YO boy as the youngest person to die from "complications due to COVID" in the province. He had stage 4 brain cancer and was tested for COVID 2 days before he died. After his family went public stating that he did NOT die from COVID but from brain cancer, the government retracted their previous statement and said that "New" information was discovered and that the death was unlikely due to COVID. And they wonder why so many don't believe a thing they are telling us. The infection and death rates have been fudged from the very beginning to make this out to be MUCH more than it really is. In this case, the question is, "why would they even TEST someone for COVID that has brain cancer so advanced that they died 2 days later??. I think the answer is obvious

I hear you about the "no time". I bought a Shiloh Sharps in 45-90 about 20 years ago and have yet to shoot it. Have lots of brass, dies, a couple different bullet molds for it but can't seem to find the time. The REAL stupid part is, since we moved in 2008, I now have a 400 yard range literally right outside my door, ( we live on 20 acres) my son built a nice shooting bench for working up loads and yet, I have so much going on in the summer that time for shooting is rather scarce.

I want to change out the cab lights on my B61 to more of a torpedo style. The typical torpedo lights on most trucks these days are awfully big for such a small cab. I DID find a rolled Mack vac truck with what looked like just the lights for me but the guy won't part with them. They are smaller and two piece with a pedestal that the torpedo sits on. I'm quite sure that there is a special place in hell for people that will change out cab lights with metal housings and glass lenses for plastic housings and plastic lenses though. These are like the ones on the rolled truck. Anyone have a set collecting dust that they would be interested in selling or something similar?.

I am not familiar with either the B-75 or the Valueliner but, if you haven't already, check the axle widths. I am doing a B-61 and the frame is 2" narrower than a more modern truck (other makes. I haven't checked more current Macks) and the front bumpers are 4" wider on a modern truck than my B61. You may have to widen the fenders to keep the wheel/tires from sticking out past the fenders. Just something to check. BTW, I like the "coolant reservoir" idea.

Yes, I TRY to be very careful with my wording and yet, STILL have people misinterpret what I am posting sometimes. On the flip side, I TRY to read posts carefully and if I am unsure of the intent/meaning, I often ask for clarification yet, STILL I have misinterpreted peoples posts.

I'm going g with dual stacks on my B-61 but I see that the last fuel tank is bigger than the right, presumably the right is smaller to allow room for the stack. Had anyone added a left stack while still issuing the bigger 50 gallon tank and if so, got any pics??. I could use another right side 40 gallon tank the left but then would have to relocate the saddles but would rather not if I don;t have to. Suggestions?

This has been an interesting thread. I have VERY little experience with daytons, the only ones i have had were 17.5" with he three spokes that branched to two nuts each with a bridge. I HATED them. Never had any problem getting them to run true but had nothing but problems getting the bridge to come off. However, I always put them on with an impact and used the impact to true them up so that may have contributed to the bridges getting so wedged on there that it was a real bear to get them off.

I understand the desire to paint under the various attachments for corrosion control, was wondering why, instead if just painting these spots for now you didn't paint the entire frame and THEN put the attachments back on. One advantage I suppose to doing it that way is if you want all the bolts painted in concert with the frame.

Curious, it appears that you removed all of the peripherals from the frame, blasted and painted where they meet and put them back on before doing the final paint on the frame. Why not paint all of the parts and the frame while they are apart then just reassemble?.

Soooooooooo, the state of Connecticut does not have a fuel tax that is already being paid by every trucking company driving on the roads????

A local guy had his 2012 KW stolen yesterday and it occurred to me last night how easy it would be to steal these old mechanical trucks. Engines with the mechanical shutoff (where you pull the knob to shut it down), with it in the "run" position, all that needs to be done to start the truck and drive it away is to short the starter terminals with a screwdriver and off you go. Then i got thinking, maybe this is why they ran 24V starters. Without the key in the "start" position to energize the series parallel switch, you would only have 12V at the starter if you tried to sort start it and it wouldn't turn over therefore you either have to have the key or hotwire the ignition switch. Then again, my E6 is mechanical and runs a 12V starter so................hmmmmm. Now i am thinking of adding some sort of anti theft to my B61. Hidden isolator switch for the batteries?, solenoid in the fuel line?, what about a solenoid in the air line that opens with the ignition switch (or hide toggle) to allow the maxis to be released? (yes i am adding maxis). I was already planning to leave the trip-plex shift pattern plate in the truck even though it will not have a tri-plex. That might cause some grief for someone trying to figure out how drive to away.

I haul my sprayer very day in the summer. I probably has about 100,000KM on the trailer. Exhaust faces forward, never cover the exhaust, never had a turbo issue. I have the same view regarding this as mrsmackpaul. While there IS a time when the intake and exhaust valves overlap (open at the same time), the over lap is small, with each valse open maybe .020 to .030. That does NOT allow for a lot of air flow. If the turbo was to turn, it would barely turn. It certainly could not spin.

OK, box it up and let me know what the shipping is (canada post) and I can send an e-transfere if you like or whatever payment method you prefer.

looking for an air cleaner cap like this

Looks good. I just installed airliner air ride to mine. It;s still at the bare frame stage though and it's still single axle. I've been struggling with what to do with the hubs but now that i see one with daytons up front and buds in rear, it looks OK. Thanks for sharing.

Yes "someone" swapped something. I put the rear in it not realizing it was a Mercedes manufacture. My new plan is to just go with daytons on the steer and Budds on the drive. I actually have a B61 with factory daytons up front and budds out back (steel of course). In the 70's there were a lot of trucks with budds on the steers and dayton drives but this one I have is the first that I recall being the other way. Anyway, I'm going to have 2 like that now. I think it will still look OK. Funny thing is that I like the looks of the dayton steers with the "Mack" hub cap better than Budd steers and I like polished Budds in back better than daytons, just was unsure about mixing but that will be the way it it's going to be.

I bought a complete running 1981 E6 350 with the 6 speed trains for $2500CAD (about $1900USD). Don't know if they are worth that but that is what I paid a few months ago.

Centre to centre on the axle bolts straight across from one another. I just talked to a wrecker that said he has 6 spoke daltons for 22.5 rims with 8 on 7" axle flange. However when investigating what KIND of rear IO have, it turns out that it is a Mercedes. Soooooooo, I will have to pull a hub and check the specs on the spindle to see if bearings are available to fit these spindles and those hubs as well as measure the distance between the bearings and their location to see if those hub are in any way compatible. I am not overly optimistic about finding what i want now that I Know that this thing is mercedes. I assumed it would be Rockwell, Eaton or maybe even meritor. Didn't even know Mercedes made rears for american trucks.

Where can I find a couple of these dust boots?. https://www.oshkoshequipment.com/products/detail/19/363/Power-Steering-Drag-Link-and-Steering-Cylinder-Knuckle-Dust-Boot

Thanks you for the update. Have been wondering where you went.

If that is a 7" bolt pattern on the axles that is exactly what I am looking for.