Joey Mack

I just realized that you have a couple threads about this truck.. I will study them again and see if I can think of anything else, and wait for you to work on the other suggestions, and post the results.. I am not a huge fan of ASET's, but the one you have is the better one, and with proper tuning and valve adjustment, it is reliable.. ( without trying to make an obvious statement) Jojo

It is important, but the engine will learn it. The bigger issue is finding someone who can enter the cal. code..

What model truck do you have? That post is 2 years old. You may want to start your own thread.. If you have an ASET-C, check the part number on the boost sensor against the VIN.. they operate on 5 volts and 1/2 of a volt difference will cause issues. The part number is printed into the flats on the sensor..

Hell, every new Pete that passes me sounds like the engine is about to throw a rod.. what's up with that?? I'm talking the daycab, LTL company trucks..

Check all the gray wires above the throttle pedal. Remove the triangular fuse cover to get a good look at them.. and for fun... clean the gray wires outside on the firewall.. Those gray wires are the grounds...

Does it have a Davco 382 fuel filter?

Flywheel housing , 175 lbft to190….. Flywheel, 190 lbft,..,... main bearings, 205 lbft.... the Butress bolts torque to 85 +/- 5 lbft... I do not know what Newton Meters they are. Please use red locktite for the flywheel and the housing bolts, wipe the main cap bolts clean, then lightly oil the threads and under the bolt head. Check the torque twice after final torque is done.. also,,, be generous with RTV on the back of the engines block, especially around the cam shaft plug... Jojo

That last one is Sad but True.. just 15 more months til the next inauguration.. God I hope we win next November...

Crank case breather.. you will need a 1/4" drive extension. It's a square plug. I suggest using an adapter for a 3/8" ratchet..

Check fuel pressure, 60-80 psi.. there is a 1/4" NPT plug behind the breather. You can put a gauge there..

So you can use the head gasket part number I posted earlier..

Awesome !! Welcome to the Dog Pound... You will find out quick, that all of us love pictures..... lot's and lot's of pictures... Jojo

I have 1 suggestion for when you put the head back on...... find some 5/8'' threaded rod and cut 2-4 pieces long enough to stick above the heads to use as guide bolts.. Head gaskets arent cheap and since you had to 'snake' it out, you will have to snake it back in.. there are 2 small 1/4'' deck dowels that stick up a 1/4''. if they are good and round, leave them alone. If you have to remove them you can use a claw hammer. place a small piece of sheet metal on the deck for protection, and place the claw end on it. Then gently drive the hammer into the pin with another hammer and pry the pin out.. they do not require a lot of force.. the pins are in stock at Mack.. Jojo

1st.... Stop using Ether.. does it start back up after it runs for a bit? Have you pumped the hand primer before starting it to see if you have fuel pressure in the galleries? Have either the cam or crank sensor been touched before this issue? No Ether.....

''fix what you know is broke'' pop test the injectors, that is if anyone has the tool and the knowledge, I usually remove the fuel lines to inspect the ends for a groove worn into it from the injector and the injection pump.. I use 320-400 grit emory cloth to dress the ends up, and blow them out with brake cleaner. the straw for the brake cleaner works good to get that done.

Around 30 lbft.. they are shouldered, and stop when seated..

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwiguZLE1NeBAxUU-cgKHdL9BhEYABAMGgJxdQ&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1OmoBhDXARIsAAAYGSGNZuJ5DDj3YZ3AgsTV145MImirivEegB41m-75A3sdDd_huUUX8g4aAi0mEALw_wcB&sig=AOD64_28HURLyhALT3-uAdVEHTxW2UPT-w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwip-ofE1NeBAxWtElkFHeQ8CfkQwg8oAHoECAUQJg&adurl=

Raineys truck parts has one for $125.00

Have you tried to look for it at a site that sells P.A.I. parts?

Yep.. I have checked d the new pin inside the old bushing for fitment. On rare occasions I had to leave them alone.. not the best procedure ..

Hook shop air to the truck. Then remove the spaghetti lines at the transmission, that control range shifting, and. Flip the range button a few times to see if good air pressure comes out. You are checking for blockages here, as well as checking the shift knobs ability to deliver. Air... with all lines hooked up, you should here the range clutch slam into both ranges.. if not, keep checking for air delivery issues... there is a shuttle valve on top of the trans, that controls the range shift...

Yes.. I have had to remove the rear hanger before, in order to replace the bushing.. it can be several hours of work, due to battery boxes and mud flap mounts, and so-on..

Thanks,,, Mean Green....