Joey Mack

Still picking away at My KB7.. It sure takes a lot of hours to remove, sand blast and paint parts.. Then when I step back and look, it looks like I didnt do much at all

Yep, almost every day. I know Donald Bost.. I have prepped a few of his new Macks when I worked at our local dealership.. They also have a couple nice Super Liners too.. there is a C-10 show Saturday at the Denton Farm Park.. Ufortunately I have to work this weekend.. I would bring my Home made C-30 just to get some laughs..

If it is the acc relay, that would be correct.. on the big wire leaving it. The other is hot, that's the input side.. so... One hot and one not, with the key off...

bingo!!!

ok,, I wish I knew your model better.. I would expect a relay to activate with the key.. I guess you will test some things tomorrow, and get back to us.. Jojo

Your welcome.. There are many ways this issue can occur.. I expect some more good suggestions will come along.. When you turn the key on, do you hear a loud click inside the dash?

the large wire on the alt, is likely coming from the starter post, which is directly connected to the batteries, therefore, that wire will have power on it. Gauges should not have power until the key is on, and then you will see the volt meter jump to 12.6 volts.. Is this a repair that you feel comfy trying to do? Maybe you could remove the wires from the alt. gauge and see which one has power on it, and then follow it to the next connection. and so-on till you find the source of the power.? There are several ways to do this, but I would have to see the truck and behind the dash.. if you un hook the wires from the alternator, does the gauge drop to zero?

If it was built like later models, there should be an accessory relay under the ash tray behind the center dash panel. That is what sends out all elec. power with the key ON. Key OFF, all power is cut off.. ( Headlights and Brake lights will work though). Has any electrical work been done recently by someone else? other than headlights and brake lights, does anything else turn on? A shorted wire to power, can cause this too..

I cant go to Colfax this year.. I have a Wedding to go to, locally, and I am also 'On-Call' for the City that weekend.. I look forward to some cool pictures. last year we drove one of my Wife's C-10's and showed it.. We also met Tom, Zina, and the pup's.. A great day !..

Amen!!!

I believe the is a long skinny piston that rides inside the input bearing cover. The cover is cut in the shape of an egg, and as the input shaft rotates, the piston moves in and out of its bore, and pumps the oil as it moves.. it's a small plunger pump.. I am not very strong on the older transmissions, like I am with 200-300 series Macks. I seem to think this pump was used in 100 series transmissions like the X-107's I used to build.. I really need to get a Transmission re- build in my shop.. Im losing knowledge. :(.

Yep...

the input shaft cover may have shims under it. End play on the main shafts is needed because of the spigot bearings at the ends of the shafts.. oil needs to enter those bearings. the main shaft spins at many different rpm's as gears are selected to get you down the road.. I had also asked if the gasket between the cases was too thick, which would give you the excessive end play.. I feel like you are very close, if not, close enough to run it as is.. I like that you are continuing to check the shafts.. After you get this done you will have gained a wealth of knowledge to add to your current wealth of knowledge.. I like this thread... I have built many Mack transmissions and this helps me keep my mind fresh about transmissions... Jojo

Welcome to the DOG POUND.. Jojo Sweet 'R'

Yes WE are... luckily my customer is a Millionaire, and doesn't care... Hell my engine gasket kit for my 48 INT. is $800.00.... so I'm making my own..

https://www.agkits.com/index.aspx I have bought a few E-6 parts from this website. One thing I found was the head nuts are obsolete, but I was able to buy the studs for $1,000.00. My studs were rusty...

I did post engine gaskets and head gaskets on another thread.. I can try to use my phone to re- post them.. the info is on the searching for a 79 head, thread. I posted on Sept. 15th

I just read this thread again.. I was concerned that I gave wrong info. I said ''Pre-load'' I just went out and looked at one of my 200 series books, and it says .002''-.006'' pre-load measured at the rear bearing cover.. I beleive Mack used that spec on the TRD's and on through til today... I beleive I am right.. I also said .002''-.005'' on re-used bearings, and .003''-.006'' for new bearings.. I know that is true in both transmissions and Mack rear's.. I say that .002'' pre-load is just fine for what you are doing.. now ... you have .027'' endplay.. is the center case gasket wrong? causing the endplay? my guess is you have steel shim's under the bearing covers?

O.D. Look what I saw at True Value... You may be on too something.. Jojo

yes to Pre load..

Yes sir, I'm mostly commenting on trying to make Big Power, from Small Mack engines, like the E-6. That is why I say, just buy a bigger engine.. I like reading these responses... Be Safe Drivers... Jojo

our city trucks are F-350's.. 6.7's.. all with loaded service bodies.. they scoot right along. 10 spd. transmissions, plenty of gears..

I am glad you made it out safely.. I dont like driving new trucks.. they are too comfy and I dont want to feel like im in my wifes Avalanche, I will get lazy and forget its a Big truck... I drove a few m-Drives and found myself driving way too fast.. Jojo

well it is 29,000 rear ends and 58,000 Boobies.... soooo Go easy on the ol'e guy.. Just sayin'..