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Joey Mack

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Joey Mack

  1. Where are you located? I have a Mack dealer 7 miles from me. maybe I can get one and send it to you? that is if your dealer has a long wait time.. My dealer is closed on weekends.. I can call tomorrow and see if they have one on the shelf.. Jojo
  2. I know,, I'm sorry again.. That B.S. is one of the reasons I left the dealership world.. They lost a Proud Mack Guy.. oh well...
  3. did you locate the regulator? maybe send a picture if you arent sure..
  4. it may, but is a new issue that needs to be dealt with.. ''Fix what you know is broke''..
  5. Sorry about the small gauge, but glad you checked again.. The new regulator may be 80 PSI.. Thats ok.. when you remove the old regulator, the fuel galleries will drain. You will need to prime the hand pump to build up pressure. It may take a few extra seconds to start. Please do not use ether...... Jojo
  6. ok, if you are confident in the gauge, then you need to check the regulator.. really, I dont take them apart, i replace them..
  7. it is below #4, it may be silver in color, it's 45 degrees. It also may have the small 5/16'' return line atached as well.. that is the return port and it is the regulator..
  8. PSI ??? That cant be right.. it should have blown out the EUP o-rings and put fuel in the oil... Way too high.. re-check, if it is not between 60-80 PSI,, remove the regulator and inspect it..
  9. When I had to pull my injectors from an ENDT 673, I used PB Blaster from the top and slowly worked the injectors side to side.. i was not able to remove the hold down studs due to rust.. it took me an hour each, on average... dirt and rust got in and around the injector, and the sealing oring was the cause for them being bound up in the bores...
  10. I too agree, and like spokes. 67Rmodel,,,The torque on the hub piloted nuts is 450-500 lbft.. it's actually stamped on them. Jojo
  11. tilt the cab and check the shifter shaft, u-joints and shift tower for excessive play.. there may be an easy fix for having to jerk it into 5th..
  12. It is supposed to start out at about 1 inch from the bottom, and as the filter clogs the fuel rises.. yes 3/4 from the top is time to change it.. I recently posted the fix for that filter unit.. take a look.. there is a check valve that is easy and cheap to replace, as part of anual maintenance.. Jojo
  13. I'm Lookin forward to the Winfall truck show and Bikini Bike wash... Well, I mean the pictures of the show...
  14. Heck,, I can come back from the transfer center with more than what I brought.. I'm a Professional trash picker..
  15. He has a Vmac-II truck, I wonder if it requires an offset cam key, like the early E-Tech's did, along with a turbo, and nozzles and programming.. I have never done that to an E-7, just E-Tech's..
  16. I just realized that you have a couple threads about this truck.. I will study them again and see if I can think of anything else, and wait for you to work on the other suggestions, and post the results.. I am not a huge fan of ASET's, but the one you have is the better one, and with proper tuning and valve adjustment, it is reliable.. ( without trying to make an obvious statement) Jojo
  17. It is important, but the engine will learn it. The bigger issue is finding someone who can enter the cal. code..
  18. What model truck do you have? That post is 2 years old. You may want to start your own thread.. If you have an ASET-C, check the part number on the boost sensor against the VIN.. they operate on 5 volts and 1/2 of a volt difference will cause issues. The part number is printed into the flats on the sensor..
  19. Hell, every new Pete that passes me sounds like the engine is about to throw a rod.. what's up with that?? I'm talking the daycab, LTL company trucks..
  20. Check all the gray wires above the throttle pedal. Remove the triangular fuse cover to get a good look at them.. and for fun... clean the gray wires outside on the firewall.. Those gray wires are the grounds...
  21. Does it have a Davco 382 fuel filter?
  22. Flywheel housing , 175 lbft to190….. Flywheel, 190 lbft,..,... main bearings, 205 lbft.... the Butress bolts torque to 85 +/- 5 lbft... I do not know what Newton Meters they are. Please use red locktite for the flywheel and the housing bolts, wipe the main cap bolts clean, then lightly oil the threads and under the bolt head. Check the torque twice after final torque is done.. also,,, be generous with RTV on the back of the engines block, especially around the cam shaft plug... Jojo
  23. That last one is Sad but True.. just 15 more months til the next inauguration.. God I hope we win next November...
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