JoeH

Mixer body sitting on it's horse! Lots of design and fabrication ahead of us!

I owned a 2001 etech 400, I couldn't find a single freeze plug on the engine, let alone a block heater. I'm sure it had freeze plugs, but I couldn't find them...

I won't touch an inversion table any more, I tried my brothers and threw my back out pretty bad. I let my muscles relax a bit too much and felt my vertebrae separate enough for something to slip between them that doesn't belong between them...

That frame is immaculate. Could wish for a double frame though, that's a lot of weight pushing down on the frame when the body first starts going up. Great find, how many miles? Tractor first, so I guess it'll have a few.

I think he meant it ain't right for an R model. And id agree. The R's I have done have a light like that, they have a pedestal light for the turn signal. My DM however has a light similar on the side of the fender wheel well, but it sets into the hole with a rubber grommet.

And I'd put a price on it if I knew what it was worth. Which hopefully is not less than scrap value.

5 speed aluminum Mack trans. My dad will likely want to keep the hydraulics from the plow setup. If you're just buying for parts we might want the power steering off it to put on our crane which is a monster to drive around in the yard.

Comes with a spare hood in decent shape. Cab is a bit more than a little rusty, but she runs and shifts. Dad used to plow snow with it. Last inspection was 2003. We put the dump on another truck. Has a sleeve frame on the back, crossmembers were cut and shortened to maintain spring hanger spacing with the frame sleeve.

Hubs are typically black. Bumpers are flat black? Probably just cheap black primer with no topcoat? At least that's what bumpers look like on my old R models. But you really didn't give us any information on what you're working on. You could be working on some modern plastic PoS where everything's the same color.

It's a job, yea, but my dad and I did ours a few years ago, snapped through between spring and the tower. New sucker weighs about 300 lbs! But you don't need any air guns for it. You need a torch for disassembly and a monster breaker bar or ratchet with a 10 ft cheater pipe and somewhere to sit on the floor where you can work the ratchet for reassembly. Ideally with something to put your feet against for traction. Need 2 people, one to work the ratchet and the other to hold the ratchet on the ubolt nut. When one person is worn out, switch places!

I have a 1980 dm686 that has a 1976 motor in it that was pieced together from misc. Other engines. Long story short, it had the wrong timing cover. Didn't sit well in the front engine mount. Don't assume the engine has never been out or had parts replaced with other parts laying around. There should be a rubber bushing in the front engine mount. Replace it, could be worn and sliding the engine backwards. Engine blocks are pretty much the same on **685 and **686 trucks, just peripheral changes for different HP ratings.

Yea. That truck should not have that load behind it. A 3/4 ton truck is good for 10k on a rear hitch, and roughly 14k on a gooseneck. Glad the hitch failed in the driveway. My cousin loaded up about 17k on one of his trailers, towed by his 2004? GMC 2500, got halfway out of the storage yard and it ripped the hitch off the frame, bent the lower frame flange pretty good. Sometimes you just gotta let stupid be stupid and stand back....

That's neat! Interesting that the frame goes up at the front axle!

Just watched the full clip, worth every minute of silence! Glad to see there's a few good representatives out there!

Location?

Clogged fuel filter still let's you hit good boost numbers, up until a continually decreasing rpm as the filter becomes more and more clogged. Basically acts like a governor.

And when did you last change your fuel filters?

Dual stacks look killer on R models.

Vapor barrier under the concrete only prevents ground moisture from soaking up through the slab. It doesn't prevent condensation from forming on a cold floor with warm humid air above it. I wouldn't do any less that 6". If there are parts of the garage that won't/can't have trucks parked on them (shelving/tool areas/etc) you can do one layer of rebar in the middle to save $. For truck lanes/parking areas I'd do the rebar at the 2 and 4 inch depths in the concrete. Metal closer than 2 inches to the surface of the concrete can rust & pop the concrete off. You see this on older bridge underpasses frequently.

How finely crushed are we talking about? 6 inch chunks or 1 inch gravel sized? Or a mixture? Larger chunks could create pressure points, as they don't readily give way to movement like gravel does.

To that point I delivered concrete to a house years ago. Plumbers had to trench the septic out through the existing garage, so they cut a 1 ft wide strip out of the garage floor. The entire garage floor was floating 6 inches!! The dirt had settled away from the slab, leaving the whole garage floor floating! Homeowner was an older gentleman, had been parking his car in there for years. His response? "This'll be the next homeowners problem, not mine!" They finished the septic repair and filled in the trench, leaving the rest of the floor floating!

Interesting! I laugh at "zero emissions". You don't get movement without forcing energy from something. That something will always produce a biproduct, whether it's coal's co2 and ash, or nuclear waste. Then you have the batteries to dispose of, which will likely mostly be recyclable... Waste collection is a good test track for electric trucks. It does make sense for such a localized use, but I wonder how well they will hold up? Maybe they'll glitch out like Toyotas Prius and just accelerate and the driver can't stop? That'd be awfully destructive at 70,000 lbs with 4,000 lbs of torque!! That sucker will keep going till it encounters enough resistance that the tires just sit there spinning on blacktop!

Higher PSI also means more brittle, less forgiving to slab flexing. But again, sub grade prep and rebar are King. What concrete can hold on one square inch dirt can only hold on one square foot. (Give or take). Steel rebar and slab thickness help to disperse point loads (i.e. bottle jacks) across a larger footprint underneath the slab. Worth looking at concrete load flex diagrams to understand how concrete is stressed. When a load is put on the slab, the top half of the slab will be in horizontal compression and the lower half will be in horizontal tension. Having rebar in the top and bottom halves of the slab would make a 3000 PSI slab good enough. Concrete has a lot of compressive strength, but not much tensile strength. The rebar in the lower half is what gives the slab tensile strength during flex to prevent cracking.

Ivanuke is in Houston I believe. It doesn't get cold enough there to justify in-slab heat. I would not do Type III "high early" cement. It'll shorten how long the crew has for working with it. Type I cement will be hard enough in a week to roll trucks across.

Looks like they tried chiseling out the rust, gave up and hammered the outer rail down to get it to close up.