JoeH

Definitely needs a good bath. Hope none of the clutch lining falls off during the process, looks like there's a bit of shrapnel hanging out there

I like the new style hood R models, but unless you have wide steer tires the hood looks weird. The old style hood really made standard 11R22.5 and 24.5s look good. Wouldnt mind seeing that green R model sitting there!

Flip the castleated but upside down and set it flush with stud before smacking it. Gives you more surface area to distribute the hammer blow, yielding less damage to nut & stud.

My 350 pulls more like a Chihuahua than a bulldog... But it moves along well enough

I have a mechanical e7-350, 1995. Almost 20,000 hours and the engine hasn't needed a thing yet.

On most engines, pulling valve covers and oil pan gives you visual access to almost the entire engine, and it doesn't cost anything other than a few gaskets and your time. If it's still making a ticking noise after you've adjusted the valves then start cracking injector lines to look for a weak injector. I had on my E7-350 a noise that sounded like the engine brake coming on, but only above 1700 rpms. Turned out to be a fuel filter clogging up. Did it again a few days later, and a second set of filters cleared it up for good!

It perplexes me that an exhaust system is so problematic. It's not that hard to buy a few 45s, 90s, some straight pipe, some clamps and some flex pipe & get the mig welder out and make what you need. Reinforces my thoughts on todays "mechanics." They're not mechanics, they're "parts replacement specialists." CPU tells them what to replace and they replace it. Ask them to use their imagination and route a 5 inch pipe under the cab and up the back and they're useless...

DEF causes turbo to spool. Not familiar with Mack emissions trucks though. Don't know when DEF started...

I've got a 450b that starts about that good at 25 degrees

Can't help you, but on Allison automatics you can set the max allowed gear with the arrow buttons. A must with an automatic when driving steep downgrades. Just keep your speed down and use the snub brake technique til you find the problem, don't want anyone killed.

So 104 tips, is that 104 hp per nozzle? That'd be a peak potential of 624 hp? Unless you plan on running 600 hp through it why would you put nozzles that big on?

We're big on brand loyalty here. We have a set of forks for the crane... (In addition to a '60s Oliver White forklift)

No but thats a sharp looking truck

How cold was it when you tried to start it? Diesel fuel forms drops of gel that clog your filters around 17 degrees F and doesn't thaw back out until around 34 degrees. If you last fueled up in the summer or fall then you don't have the winter additives that prevent gelling. You're going to have to warm the truck up. My brother got fuel for his 7.3 ford last winter at a small station and it gelled up on him going down the road after 30 minutes. He had to tow it into my garage to warm it up so he could get it running. Not all gas stations run winter additives, so be prepared to add your own next time. Also modern biodiesel forms algae after a year or less of sitting. It will clog all sorts of annoying spots. They make algicide fuel treatments, but it only kills/prevents algae, it doesn't dissolve existing algae.

Our trucks are all Mack. Mack. A '79 R686ST, a '95 RD688S, and we bought a 1988 RD690S that were rebuilding a mixer for. I haven't broken the maintenance expense accounts down to individual trucks, but the trucks cost us very little apart from tires.

Those are about 55k Camelback springs. Rears could be a bit heavier. We have a 1980 DM686SX with a 2 stick 6 speed, topped out in direct at about 48mph before we swapped the rears to hit 62. I recognize the bolt together torque arm joint and other features like the cone hub caps.

Is fuel thrown in with maintenance? And are you expensing parts for new truck assembly under that 1/3 maintenance or are you appreciating the parts into the value of the trucks?

That's a shame.

In a nutshell, the camshaft, the exhaust manifold, the first bit of exhaust pipe, etc are designed to push exhaust back into the engine through restriction, in the hopes of re-burning it to make it cleaner. Lucky for those with the problem engine, there's parts from previous year models that bolt right on to replace those components, resulting in happy truck owners.

Pull up a chair!

Nice truck, but it kills me that people weld stuff to the truck frame.

Pretty sure bumper-backofcab is longer than backofcab-rear of frame!

Do these have an alignment pin in the block that should be checked/replaced? At the same time?

My '95 E7 350 engine wants the pyro to stay below 1025, whereas my old '79 endt676 wants the pyro to stay below 1125. Not sure what # he is staying below. Also the '79 has a cab decal saying to idle the truck 3 minutes before shutdown. Helps the engine components to regulate temperature and cool down a bit after working.

Eaton makes truck parts. The other company makes parts for Auto's, Mann! Do you want truck parts or car parts? Never heard of automann. Stuff like that I buy through my dealer. I don't care about price hunting on safety. I care about not wrecking.