JoeH

Likely both; I have a 95 rd688s mechanical, but v-mac I was available I expect.

Classy.

9 days left on it, it'll go up.

Could you imagine trying to teach a jury the mechanics of a fuel injection so they can deliberate? Let alone an injection that allows the fuel to flow backwards into the injector? I suppose pulling your own fingernails out might be an easier task!

Link to the post? Was there a solution in that post?

You're on the right path, just make sure you put blocks between the frame and body before you go under there.

It would pressurize both sides and the fork would freely slide back and forth, destroying the gears? The air moves it and holds it too I expect.

How hard is a good flatback u cab to find? We have a 1976 u685T dump we might put back on the road but the cab is crusty! Dad plowed and salted with it for a while.

Does the cab tilt forward on an MR? I guess the trans is under the trash body? I'd hate to say you need to pull the trans, but you'll need more than 8 inches of head room. May have to lift the body off or drop the trans. 12 inches you might be able to get away with it if you're skinny...

Its bad, but like ws721 said if it's a good truck and you like it it's probably cheaper to fix than to replace. Question is whether or not fixing it is worth it to you. Some people dig out the rust by beating on the rails and vibrating them to shake the rust out, but that doesn't get the rust out at the bend in the flange. If you take it apart you may find holes in one rail or the other, or paper thin rails. All that rust came from your rails, so they're thinner than they were when they left the factory. Thinner & weaker.

Cutting and splicing PG Adams rails is not a bad idea, but it will also require separating the rails to get your welds right.

My 1980 DM686SX has two 3/8th inch rails. Rust jacking is a awful. Last 8 feet of the top rail: outer rail is cracked along the transition from sidewall to flange; inner rail top flange is just rust cancer. Nothing substantial left. And our trucks don't go out much in winter. If yours hasn't cracked yet you might be able to save it. Pull one side of the frame out at a time, separate the rails clean and paint, then reinstall and then do the other side. It's a chore but the trucks not going anywhere anyways. Cost is roughly $1,000 in new bolts, plus one or two possibly cracked crossmembers, plus sandblasting and paint + your time.

Hahaha

Sounds like you need to install a left turn signal on the truck! Kinda silly having a truck with no left turn signal!

Not sure what access is on your t2060, the 8ll is easy to fix from the rear of the trans. We have 1988 RD690S with a t2070? that we had to take the range selector out the top because we had to take off the rear mounted PTO for repairs and a countershaft dropped. Had to jack the back of the cab up as far as we could plus we conveniently had a hole in the floor between the seats. Was doable, but it needed 2 or 3 sets of hands at times. Not sure how your access will be.

+1 on possibly a vent line. Could have a leak in the range selector cylinder. What happens is one side is hi other side is low. If the oring between the two fails the air will bypass from selected range to vented range. Thus, your "leaking" vent line, because the unused side is switched to the vent. I have an 8ll that did this, but the orings were fine, but the disc that is the "combination cylinder" was cracked in 3? places.

What year truck and engine are you working on?

I don't get the Jan Brett reference. This is where I heard honey Badgers from:

Put a frayed steel cable (small diameter) in your drill gun, shove it in there and hit the go button? It'll make the bend and flail around like a honey badger. Don't know if it'll work but worth a shot?

A good welder with the right rods should have no problem with it.

I'd look at the kingpin too, make sure the disk on the underside of the pin isn't bent/failing.

Look for the trailer stop lamp switch in the dash, possibly T'ed into the air plumbing for one of the knobs. My 2001 tractor may have had 3 knobs (I forget, it's been a few years since I sold it) one knob released truck park brakes, Second knob supplied air to the trailer tanks, Third knob released trailer park brakes. One of my straight trucks had a 2 knob setup, one for trailer brakes, one for truck brakes.

Trucks typically use 2 air switches. One kicks on below a certain pressure, this would typically be in a situation where your parking brake is kicked on, intentionally or in a low air situation. Do not confuse this with the low air buzzer/light circuit. The other brake light switch is tied into the foot pedal and kicks on when there is air pressure going to the service brakes. Recap: one is a positive pressure switch in the service brake air circuit, the other is a 0 air pressure switch in the Emergency (Park) air circuit. First is typically on the firewall, second is typically in the dash by the park knob. Your situation sound more like a wiring issue than a switch issue, unless there's a 3rd switch for the trailer. But most of my work has been on straight trucks. Good luck!

You mean shouldn't?

If you register it it's registered. If you don't register it then it's not registered. You need insurance and registration to drive it home. If you're going across state lines you'll need it registered for INTERstate, not INTRAstate. In PA you have 15 days from date of purchase/registration to get it inspected, or at least that's with cars/motorcycles. I expect with commercial vehicles you're probably not allowed to "haul" loads with the truck until it's inspected. With the Ram 3500 I don't see why you couldnt haul the 613 home with it assuming you are under the legal 13'6" height and you're not exceeding the Ram's gvwr, axle ratings, etc. I would back the truck onto your trailer to ensure you don't overload the tongue weight with the engine/trans.